Ha Long, Vietnam: Bay of Limestone Karsts, Green Islands on Emerald South China Sea, and Enchanting Grottoes

Ha Long, Vietnam: Bay of Limestone Karsts, Green Islands on Emerald South China Sea, and Enchanting Grottoes

Thang Long was the original name of Hanoi when Ly` Thai To established the capital in the area in 1010. The city is usually referred to Thang Long-Hanoi when its long history is discussed. The name of our hotel in Hanoi was ‘Thang Long Opera’. Thang Long means ‘Rising Dragon’ or ‘Ascending Dragon’. Long means dragon and it is very auspicious in Vietnam.

The journey from Hanoi to Ha Long Bay is about 4 hours depending on the traffic. As we were nearing Ha Long Bay the scenery changed. There were large expanse of water and clenched-fist-like rocks springing up from the earth. The rocks looked raven black under the cloudy sky. The wind was chilly and the scenery suggested that heaven was waiting for us. Beautiful hotels and lodges peeped through lush greenery.

Lodge through greenery

Expanse of Water Bordered by Rocks

Ha Long was essentially a fishing village in ancient times. According to our guide, the history of Ha Long Bay is interesting. There are many versions. Ha long Bay is called the bay of the descending dragon because the islands of Ha Long Bay were formed when a dragon descended from the mountains. Another version is, one day a tornado rose in South China Sea where the fishermen had gone fishing. They prayed to the Sea God to save them from the big rains and storm. A dragon rose from the sea, covered the black clouds and calmed the waves. According to local legends, when Vietnam had just started to develop into a country the people had to fight against invaders. To assist Vietnamese in defending their country, the gods sent a family of dragons. This family of dragons began spitting out jewels and jade. These jewels turned into islands and islets. Magically, numerous rock mountains abruptly appeared in the sea. The invaders’ ships collided against the rocks and were destroyed. After winning the battle, the dragons decided to live in this Bay. The place where the mother dragon descended was called Ha long.

Ha Long Bay is a UNESCO World heritage site and one of the natural wonders of the world. It is in Quang Ninh province in Vietnam. It features thousands of karsts and isles in various shapes and sizes. Most of the islets (1960-2000) are of limestone. In this bay, limestone has gone through millions of years of formation due to the rise and fall of the sea in different conditions and environment. Historical research has shown the presence of prehistoric human beings in this area thousands and thousands of years ago. Ha Long Bay was not mentioned in nautical maps and history books until the late 19^th century when it first appeared on the maritime map of France.

The limestone, monumental islands are topped with thick, tropical rain forests. They stand in a classic fenglin landscape (isolated limestone hills) with heights from 50m to 100 m. Fengcong (clusters of conical peaks) are also seen. Another special feature is the abundance of lakes inside limestone islands. During the Vietnam War many of the channels between the islands were heavily mined by US navy, some of which pose a threat to fishing even day.

The climate was cold in March but generally it has a warm, wet, tropical climate. We got down from our bus and walked to the pier. From there we were transferred to a small speed boat wherein we had to wear life jackets. Then we reached our cruise ship, V’Spirit.

From the deck I had a good view all around. I was astounded with such a profusion of beauty. It’s like lots of Eiffel Towers on a marine expanse. Huge, green rocks spectacularly shot up from the still, aquamarine water at regular intervals and stood as sentinels, as if guarding the fishermen. So the legend was true after all. The rocks were of various shapes and sizes. One was shaped like the rear of an enormous prehistoric animal sitting comfortably after having its fill. Another was shaped like Lord Shiva, complete with the high coiffure on the head.

Riveting Shapes of Towering Karsts

In the afternoon we went in speed boats to a ticket office where our guide booked tickets for our sail in junk boats on South China Sea. There was a mad rush. One large group of about 20 returned from its sojourn and the boat was immediately booked by another group who was ready to pounce on it. In this mad rush we stood close to each other waiting patiently for our turn. Our guide was a quiet man unlike the others and not adept in capturing boats. Some of the global population were in a hurry to embark and disembark so much so, while coming ashore, the whole lot tried to get down at once, tilting the boat, almost toppling it. They screamed in unison, stepping back and the boat again regained its balance. Then our turn arrived. We got up carefully with discipline. Our boat went under the narrow, uneven opening of the grotto and then it was darkness. However, in the faint glow from the exit, we could see stalactites, stalagmites and flowstones on the walls. Again our boat came out from the cavern’s pit to the sky’s underbelly but this time we were rock-locked on all three sides. This watery space was small due to the encroaching karsts-sentinels and also because it was jammed with boats filled with worldwide tourists. The scene was mesmerizing…a bit of sky through the soaring, dark green rocks on all sides, their reflection making the water emerald. There was a fair amount of kayaking too.      

Karst-Locked in South China Sea

In V’Spirit cruise ship, we had a Vietnamese lunch of rice-noodle soup, delicious salad, white rice, vegetable noodles, stir-fried cauliflower and broccoli and the inevitable tofu curry, culminating in dragon fruit and pineapples as dessert. There was ample non-vegetarian cuisine too, in which the centerpiece was baked fish. After lunch, we went on a trip to an island. The climate was pleasant; the afternoon warmth had replaced the morning chilliness. We wore life jackets as we settled in a boat. After a very short travel the boat moored on the shore and we had to climb a bit uphill, footslogging through sand that has been washed to a snowy white by the tide. Then we reached the crescent-shaped islet, called Ti Top Island named after a Russian cosmonaut Gherman S.Titov. It is also the view point in the entire Ha Long Bay. In November 22, 1962, this tiny island had the honor of receiving a visit from Titov, a hero of the former Soviet Union, accompanied by president Ho Chi Minh. To commemorate this visit, Ho Chi Minh named the place Ti Top Island.

 After walking a few paces we came across a huge statue of Gherman Titov, which was more of a photo stop. As usual, the island was crowded with people from all over the globe.

Then we walked past the statue and came to a point where we had to climb about 400 steps to reach the summit of Ti Top mountain, where there is an  observation deck to see the sunset and also a 360 degree view of Ha Long Bay. The steps were irregular, not steps as such but stone blocks of various sizes arranged as steps. The staircase was very narrow .On one side was a dense, hill forest bordering a deep gorge; on another side was a green hill .This side was secured by strong ropes. The entry and exit points were one and through this narrow path a constant stream of tourists were ascending and descending in a very organized, quiet, manner. After climbing for about ten minutes, I gave up. I came to a platform from where I got a panoptic view of the surroundings and also the sunset. The scene from here too was out of this world. So you can imagine what awaits intrepid travelers who reach the top. But there was still more to climb.  One foreign lady, coming down the steps, informed me, “Too long. Ten minutes more.” The path was narrower and it had become conical indicating the peak. The climbing down was easy .On a ledge at the basement were stone stools around a low, stone table. There were refreshment stands selling green coconuts. Facilities were also there.

Sunset from Ti Top Mountain

The return to V’Spirit was again by the speed boat. On the deck of our V’Spirit cruise ship, tea was served to us accompanied by biscuits, tiny, juicy oranges and chenet, a small fruit like litchi and very sweet.

There were floating villages in the sea and also floating markets. Residents of the bay mostly live on boats/floating houses and rafts to facilitate fishing, cultivating and breeding of aquatic and marine species. A community of around 1,600 people lives on Ha Long Bay in 4 fishing villages. Their main occupation is fishing and marine aqua culture. While we were relaxing on the deck and in the open lounge, a lady came in a small boat selling chips and colas. For supper, the menu was more or less the same except that there were special spring roles. The lights suddenly went out and in came an illuminated pineapple with its inside cored, and resting within it were crispy spring rolls. The illumination was due to the flame within it. While having food we could see through our dining room glass window, the limestone rocks silent and seductive in the dark.

The next morning at six there was a Tai Chi class for us on the sun deck .The riveting rocks looked Oxford grey in the dawn. The wind was cold. Our Tai Chi master played soft, oriental music and signaled us to be silent while doing the exercises as if he were performing heavenly rituals. Then the sun rose from behind the rocks. The scene was celestial; the charcoal grey rocks covered in a golden halo and the iron blue water turning blonde.

Sunrise from the Sun Deck of V’Spirit and Tai Chi Class

After an early breakfast we set out to explore the caves. It was just 7:30 a.m. We sat in speed boats and headed towards the grotto called Sung Sot cave or Surprise cave. It is on Bo Hon Island and was discovered by the French in 1901 who named it “Grotto des surprises” (grotto of surprise).It is one of the most spectacular, widest and largest Karsts caves in Ha long Bay. We got our tickets and then we entered the stony, rocky environs. We climbed up stone steps to reach a platform. We walked for sometime and then sat on rock benches or paved high stones under rock ledges to gather our breath. The scene was as crowded as any other touristy place with global populace. There was a small loggia-type platform on one level from where the view of Ha Long Bay was exhilarating.

Way to Sung Sot Cave

The path to Sung Sot cave is quite steep and lined with shady trees. From the wharf, there are many steep, stone stairs leading up to the cavern which is about 25m above sea level. Then the stage came to enter the cave. We climbed down about ten stone steps and came to the mouth of the grotto. This limestone cave occupies around 10,000 square meters and comprises of two vast caverns. As we entered the cave we came across an undulating stretch where there was a small conical gap with a signboard ‘Way to heaven’. Above was the vault of rocks but there were tiny chinks through which natural light filtered through. The interior of the cave was well lit. The stylish lights were silvery and yellow of various degrees creating the right atmosphere, making the interiors mysteriously beautiful with its play of light and shade in the brightly-lit and dimly-lit areas. 

Play of Light and Shade in the Cave

Dragon on the wall

This first chamber is known as the waiting room. At about 30 meters high it provides a grand entrance to the larger, second chamber reached by a narrow path. An enormous space surprises you with its surreal decorations of magnificent stalactites, stalagmites and columns formed through millions of years. This inner chamber is known as the serene castle. Many stalactites hung from the high ceiling with numerous possible forms and shapes. The roof is decorated with various natural designs but they looked as if carved by human hands. Shawls, straws, flowstones, helictites, cave corals, dogtooth spar, cave pearls, lily pads (shelf stones) are seen a plenty in this cave, taking various shapes and sizes .It depends on the imagination for their interpretation. Such natural phenomena of rain, wear and tear, have created on the wall, an open-mouthed dragon in a running pose.

The walls of this chamber too generate a variety of hues that blend with the setting of the area.

Breathtaking Natural Phenomenon with Sunlight Filtering in through an Opening

Columns or pillars developing from stalactites and stalagmites extended from the floor to the roof. The floor was full of hollows and stones, rise and fall pavements and protuberances; so we had to walk slowly. After walking through very narrow strips on several such undulations we came to the exit. We climbed up the irregular steps bordered by thick foliage into the open air and under the blue sky. There was no dearth of facilities even in the cave premises.  

Splendorous Designs in the Cave

We walked past souvenir shops, climbed down steep, stone steps to the waterfront and boarded our speed boat. We came to V’ Spirit where a delicious vegetarian and non vegetarian lunch awaited us. The rice had an Indian touch with ample fried peanuts to accompany it. After lunch we had our cooking class. Each one of us was given thin rice sheets and julienned carrots, onions, lettuce etc. We learnt the art of making spring rolls and then ate them up. They tasted all the more better because of our personal touch.  

The journey back to Hanoi was mundane as the emerald and white South China Sea dotted with stand-alone, lofty islands and snow-white cruise ships was receding and the road was lined by massive commercialization with hotels and buildings coming up at a fast pace. However, all this was far away from the unspoiled gorgeousness of Ha Long Bay. Its exquisiteness attracts tourists in droves. This massive surge in tourism has improved the life of the locals to a vast extent.      

Au Revoir Ha Long Bay

                                                    Photographs : Bulbul Sur                   

Tags: Vietnam, Ha Long Bay, South China Sea, Limestone Karsts, Ti Top Island, Sung Sot Cave

A Superb Specimen of Military Architecture and a Hush-Hush Treasure Trove

A superb specimen of Military Architecture and a Hush-Hush Treasure Trove

Jaigarh Fort

 A Superb Specimen of Military Architecture and a Hush-Hush Treasure Trove

Jaigarh Fort ,Jaipur

Jaigarh Fort     
 courtesy: Abhinavmnnit Wikimedia commons 

At Subhat Niwas, the king was briefing his soldiers about strategies to be adopted to counter a possible aggression. Suddenly, he was   informed that the enemy, in a surprise attack, had overpowered the guards at the gate and had entered the fort. The undaunted king   ordered his commander to meet the exigency, while he retreated through a secret tunnel to a safer venue, Khilbati Niwas, to open a second line of defense. The intruders pursued the king but the escape tunnel was too narrow. Moreover, after a certain distance, it became pitch dark .The guard, invisible in the darkness, could see the foes enter the tunnel in single file. He intercepted them easily, while the king had ample time to escape.

Section of a Huge Courtyard 
courtesy: Jakub Halun Wikimedia commons

Meanwhile in the courtyards , the   soldiers  had encircled the opponents who  had no place to retreat, because all the doors leading to  other apartments were closed .Outside, the  attackers  could not scale the fort  because thorny bushes beyond the ramparts formed obstacles .

Various Corners of the Bulwark of Impregnable Jaigarh Fort 
courtesy: Wikimedia commons

The walls  were extended  in   angles ,  to lessen the chances of a direct hit . The defending soldiers had positioned themselves at different cusps on the battlements and shot down the intruders or rolled down stones from above. The enemy was at a disadvantage, because there were hardly any deep ravines or projecting cliffs near the fort to shelter them from the onslaught.

A Structure with an Expansive Courtyard
courtesy: anupamg, Wikimedia commons

This is a battle scene in Jaigarh fort, which is a remarkable example of military architecture. It is   15 km. from Jaipur city and one and a half km. from Amber Palace. It is 602 m. above mean sea level. Its length extends 3 km. from north to south and its width is 1 km. from east to west. The whole area is secured with a fortified wall, so long, that it covers almost the entire Aravalli  hilly area. This wall was further guarded with 27 chowkies/check posts.     

A Wide  View of Jaigarh Fort
courtesy: cherisam Wikipedia commons

History of Jaigarh Fort

The medieval rulers believed in the Divine right of Kingship and considered their primary duty was to protect their subjects and the honor of their women. For this they needed a stronghold which could give security not only to royalty but also to the citizens. Hence, they built forts small or big, garh or garhi. Forts to medieval kings were not only crucial for war and defense purposes but also symbolized power and wealth .So, the bigger the king, the grander the fort.

Physical Features of Jaigarh Fort's Terrain 
courtesy: Wikimedia commons

The history of Jaigarh Fort dates back to Kakil Deo, son of Duleh Rai, the first Kachhawa/Kachhawaha ruler to enter Dhundhar in the 10^th century. Kakil continued with his father’s policy of aggrandizement and annexed Amber from Rao Bhatto, a Mina of the Susaot family. Kakil understood clearly the strategic importance of Amber, located on a hilly terrain, commanding a wide view of the northern and southern regions. So he made it a base for the future expansion of his territory and removed his capital from Khoh to Amber. 

                                 Unending Rampart                                           
courtesy: commons.wikimedia.org  

He founded Jaigarh Fort in 1036 AD, on the spine of the northern range of the Aravalli Mountain. It was further developed, modernized and remodeled by Raja Man Singh I (1589-1614) and Mirja Raja Jai Singh (1621-1667).

Entrance Gate of Jaigarh Fort  
courtesy: Jakub Halun Wikimedia commons

The fort has three entrance gates - Doongar Darwaza (1942) in the south; Awani Darwaza (the oldest) in the east; and the third is Sagari Gate, through the west—towards Sagar, the well-known tank of Amber.  Formerly known as Amber Fort, it was christened Jaigarh by Sawai Jai Singh II (1699 - 1743).

Military Architecture

A Portion of the Crenelated Fortification   
courtesy: Ameya_Clicks Wikimedia commons

Jaigarh Fort is 'Giri/Parvat Durg or a hill fort which is considered to be the best among all kinds of forts. During the medieval times it was one of the most important forts of Rajasthan because of its strategic location as it lay in the trade route from Delhi to Gujarat and Malwa.

 It is a supreme example of military architecture. The main purpose of Jaigarh Fort is exemplified by its guardian deity, Kal Bhairav. The idol is in black stone and has eight hands, each hand holding a weapon. The protector is a fierce form of Lord Shiva and in Jaigarh Fort, a small temple is dedicated to it. It was built by Kakil Deo in 1036 A.D. 

Watch Tower 
courtesy: Vssun commons.wikimedia.org 

If we enter the palace through Doongar Darwaza, we come to the Jaleb Chowk (which  houses the offices and two museum galleries) and the first complex that we encounter is Subhat Niwas, the courtyard where the king addressed his soldiers before a war .It is 150 ft. from east to west in width and 168 ft. from north to south in length. The attached hall where the plans and strategies were discussed during war time measures 69 by 34 feet.  

Khilbati Niwas or Hall of Private Audience, stands on a high platform and measures 32 by 13 ft. It was a meeting place for army generals, Thakurs and Thikanedars (nobles) where secret matters of the state and strategies of war were discussed. The distinctive feature of Khilbati Niwas was that it was built of a special material which made the sounds echo.       

Surya Mandir 

This is an eleventh-century building with seven rooms, each accompanied by a veranda. It houses the tools for gun foundry, carpentry and blacksmithing.

Ranawat Chowk

In its heydays it was used as a durbar  or royal court. Later, as new palaces were added to Jaigarh Fort, it became a place for making matchlock guns. At present, it is used as a store room for ancient military equipment such as cannon wheels and shafts of gun carriages.  

Vijaygarhi

In the south-west part of Jaigarh Fort is Vijaygarhi. It is a small castle within the fort and since its first inception it is being used as the armory . This heavily-fortified castle is the only building in the whole fort which has gun bases in all its four corners. In one of  its areas Sawai Jai Singh II kept his brother, Vijay Singh as a prisoner. Since then it is called Vijaygarhi. 

Strategic Tunnels

A Tunnel in Jaigarh Fort 
courtesy: Vssun Wikimedia commons

 

Description at the Entrance of a Tunnel
courtesy: Vssun Wikimedia commons

What makes Jaigarh Fort unique among all the forts in India and perhaps in the world, is its several covered and uncovered tunnels. The tunnels in Jaigarh Fort is a magnificent display of the military acumen of the rulers. Besides the tunnel for the king's escape from Subhat Niwas to Khilbati Niwas, there are other tunnels leading to all parts of the fort. From the roof of the Royal Palace Lakshmi Vilas, a 116 ft. tunnel passes to Lalit Mandir, the summer palace of the royal family. The royal kitchens are connected to Lalit Mandir by a 107 ft. tunnel which opens out to the Aram Mandir (16th century royal garden house) and the garden. The Aram Mandir is connected by a 263 ft. tunnel to the 17th century Vilas Mandir ( meeting place for royal ladies).The double-storied 17th century Puppet theater for royal audience is connected to the courtyard of Vilas Mandir by a 93 ft. long tunnel. 

Weapons

Jaivan 
 courtesy :Swapnil Karambelkar Wikimedia commons

Jaigarh has the world’s largest cannon on wheels called Jaivan. It was cast in 1720 during the reign of Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II (1699-1743) at the foundry in Jaigarh Fort. Its range is 22 miles (1 mile=1.6 km approximately). Jaivan cannon rests on a high, four-wheeled carriage. The height of the front wheels is 9 ft. and the height of the rear wheel is 4 and a half feet. The barrel of the cannon is 20 ft. 2 inches and it weighs 50 tons. For firing each shot, 100 kilograms of gun powder and a cannon ball weighing 50 kg were used. The barrel of the cannon rests on a 24 ft. long shaft. The other cannon called Bajrangvana (1691)  is an example of a garrison cannon and it was driven to the battlefield by 32 oxen.

Barrel of Jaivan Cannon 
courtesy: Nvvchar Wikimedia commons 

Gun Foundry

This 16^th century gun foundry with its tools spreads over an area of 162 by 57 feet .It was built during  the reign of Man Singh I. Maharaja Man Singh, the Commander-in-chief of Akbar's army attacked Kabul in 1580,won the battle and remained as Governor of Kabul for 6 years where he acquired the knowledge  of making cannons. The gun foundry had a reverberatory,  open hearth furnace, its oval-shaped bath/hearth was made of refractory material. The furnace can bear a temperature of 1200 degree centigrade. The drilling complex has a mechanical device which was used for drilling bores in the barrels of the cannons. An octagonal room, 31 ft. high, has four wooden bars revolved by four pairs of oxen. The gear system lying below this room consists of 2 vertical and one horizontal wheel. The oxen rotated the crossbars which made the giant horizontal wheel to rotate.   

Since secrecy is one of the main aspects of  warfare so cannon-making was a strictly secret affair. The Maharaja watched the proceeding from the balcony of a double-storied building. Rituals were performed in Ganesh Temple before the commencement of the job. Swastika and other Hindu religious symbols of auspiciousness can be seen at the mouth of Jaivan's barrel. 

Armory Gallery

That Jaigarh Fort's main purpose was to serve as a defense fortress is further reflected in the museum which stretches across the length and breadth of Jaigarh Fort. In the armory gallery, plans and war maps, medieval rockets, guns such as matchlock, flintlock and jujawal (camel gun) are displayed. Cannon Nagin, Cannon Singhvan, Cannon Dhoomvan etc. are some among the many that hold pride of place in the museum. The earliest cannon is the  Karak Bijli Cannon made during Raja Bhagwan Das and it was used by the army of Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II in the battles fought in Bihar, Bengal, Orissa, Deccan etc. It is said that cannon making in Jaigarh foundry continued till late 19th century.

The Armory gallery contains Artillery Tools and rockets. The war rockets were introduced in the  18th century. The rockets in Jaigarh were cast iron cylinders filled with gun powder fixed with a fuse. They were used near the cavalry to throw front line troopers into disarray.

The Collection Gallery

The artifacts in this gallery are mostly in line with the defense nature of Jaigarh Fort. The Treasury Lock is one such item. This lock is made of iron and five keys are needed to open it. Huge oil containers are also unique in this gallery. Made of camel leather, the containers are not only sturdy but superbly crafted. Oil was not only used for lighting but also for defense purposes. During an enemy attack hot oil was poured over them. Copper War Drums with the top covered by animal leather are also on display because they are necessary in the defense structure. Since there were many check posts in  the fortification of Jaigarh Fort, the war drums provided signals of the enemy's movement. 

Foundry Gallery

Foundry Gallery is located in Surya Mandir and it displays the tools of furnace and lathe machine. 

Treasures

Jaigarh is also famous for its closet - lock -and -key of secret treasures. It is said, that Duleh Rai had stormed the Bar-Gujar fort of Deoti and amassed its treasure, accumulated through ages. Kakil Deo had hidden the treasure in Jaigarh. Another version says that Raja Man Singh I, the great general of Emperor Akbar’s army, had gained enormous wealth from his Kabul expedition (1581-1587) and 22 other parganas. It was impossible to stash the fortune without a fort, so it was stored in Jaigarh. The treasury was guarded by the loyal men of the qilledars. The keys of the famous five-key lock was placed in the hands of two most trusted qilledars of the Maharaja. 

There is a further story that the  buried treasure of the Kachhawa dynasty  was  fiercely guarded by the Mina tribesmen  in Jaigarh and  each successive Raja was taken to the treasure blindfolded and allowed to choose just one piece from it .Therefore , the actual location of the treasure is still  unknown .

In the Collection Gallery there are coin containers on display. Jaipur rulers undertook different campaigns on behalf of the Mughal Kings. Those rulers brought booty from such campaigns. So Jaigarh Fort became the store house of wealth and booty. Coin containers of various sizes and shapes were produced for this purpose. The inner side of the containers is fitted with wood while the outer side is made of copper.  

In 1976, a 250 year-old document of Sawai Jai Singh II’s era was discovered, which had a reference to the hidden treasures of Jaigarh. The cost of the jewels mentioned in the document was estimated to be about rupees 30 cores in 1726 and the cost of the total wealth was estimated   to be rupees 110 crores.

There are 5 major tanks inside the fort .The dimension of the largest tank is 158 by 138 by 40 ft. and has a storage capacity of 60 hundred thousand gallons of water. The second tank is adjacent to the bigger tank but is full of mystery. It measures 69 by 52 by 52 ft. There are nine holes in the roof of this tank and there is a room under each hole. It is conjectured that the rooms were used as treasury houses till the reign of Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II. It is also argued that the wealth stored here was used by  Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II for building the new city of Jaipur in 1727-28.

The Indian government launched a massive treasure hunt at Jaigarh Fort in 1976 during the Emergency declared by Prime Minister, Indira Gandhi. 500 workmen dug for 5 months .Metal detectors were used. The important places where the digging took place were: all the major tanks, Lakshmi Vilas Palace, Lalit Mandir, Aram Mandir, the Puppet show theater and the kitchens. But nothing was found. There was also a question raised in the Parliament of India on this issue whether a "search for treasure was carried out from 10th June 1976 till November 1976 by the Income Tax Authorities at Jaigarh Fort on the Delhi Jaipur Road was closed to ordinary traffic  for one or two days so as to make way for military trucks carrying treasures to the residence of the then Prime Minister Smt. Indira Gandhi?" (Wikipedia)  

Aesthetics

 

Aram Mandir and Char Bagh       
courtesy: Vssun commons.wikimedia.org 

Jaigarh Fort is built mostly with red sandstone and red -spotted white stone. It is a fantastic display of Rajput architecture.  Subhat Niwas, Khilbati Niwas, Lakshmi Vilas, Surya Mandir, Vilas Mandir, Aram Mandir and its beautiful, square garden, Char Bagh, the Palace Hall with its decorated canopies, carved pillars done in araish plaster are a feast to the eye. The successive courtyards, suites, verandas, enclosed open spaces, cupolas with pointed or circular crests, crenelated fortification and the panoramic view from the seven-storied Diya Burj (turret of lamps) create everlasting magic. Even the barrel of Jaivan Cannon is beautifully carved with floral designs; an elephant rests on the tip of the barrel, a pair of peacocks is carved at the center, and a pair of ducks decorate the rear of the barrel.

Semicircular Arches ,Typical of Jaigarh Fort Architecture
courtesy: anupamg Wikimedia commons

 

      Diya Burj 
courtesy: Vishalginodia Wikimedia commons

As we look at the grand edifice, mounted as high as a bird can soar, we think of the dark tunnel where perhaps many hapless soldiers had toiled desperately to find open air; the treasure which might still be hushed somewhere within the hollow mines of the fort. But Jaigarh Fort, detached from these speculations, stands with peaceful majesty like a natural sculpture, sculpted by time on the memories of mankind.

  Tags: Military architecture, Hidden Tunnels, Hidden Treasure Trove, Search for Treasure, Cannon, Foundry, War Drums, Water Tanks, Jaigarh's treasure, Jaivan,  Karak Bijli Cannon

Romeo and Nomatophobia

                                            

                                             Romeo and Nomatophobia

Well -read people are up in arms because of a name, ‘Anti-Romeo Squad’ for it defames ‘poor Romeo’, ‘celebrated the world over as the archetypal lover’, ‘the supremely sacrificing lover’ etc. They agree that the UP Chief Minister, Yogi Adityanath’s purpose is noble but they cannot bear the tarnishing of Romeo. While girls are raped, killed, hurled with acid; forced to leave school and college to avoid molestation; erudite people split hairs over a name, the very name which is meant to protect women.

It is not as if Yogiji’s police have mastered the art of taking Romeo’s name in a negative way. Oxford Living Dictionaries define the word Romeo as, ‘an attractive, passionate male seducer or lover.’ Synonyms for Romeo are: gigolo, playboy, womanizer, seducer, philanderer, flirt etc.  

Similarly, Eve teasing is a term used throughout South Asia for sexually harassing or molesting of women by men. But then Eve teasing does not seem an outright inapt tag to learned people, even though Eve is a Biblical character.

Romeo cannot be called a one-woman man even with an ample scholarly view of English literature. His main attribute is he has an over-active libido. His friend Mercutio describes him, ‘You are a lover.’ In the first act Romeo whines and groans because Rosaline has rejected him and he bleats,’under love’s heavy burden do I sink.’ It was more lust than love because the libidinous Romeo Montague moans that Rosaline rejected him because, ‘…she will live chaste.’ He is advised by his friend Benvolio to forget her and ‘examine other beauties’. Romeo takes the advice very seriously and promptly falls in love with a thirteen-year-old girl, Juliet Capulet and realizes, ‘For I ne’er saw true beauty till this night.’ By the time we reach Act 1, scene V he is besotted with Juliet.

Both fall in love. Romeo seeks Friar Laurence’ help to sanctify their love into holy matrimony. A staggered Friar asks Romeo, “Is Rosaline whom thou didst love so dear, so soon forsaken?”He further laments, “Young men’s love then lies not truly in their hearts but in their eyes.” He calls Romeo, ‘young waverer.’ Nevertheless, he gets them married.

Romeo is a weak character shedding ‘womanish tears’, always stressed, unable to control his adrenaline-rush. In a vengeful mood he kills Juliet’s cousin Tybalt. The Prince banishes Romeo from Verona. Romeo, true to his character of fight-and-flight, hides in Friar Lawrence’ cell, swinging from one intense emotion to another: grief for losing Rosaline, unbridled love for Juliet, intense anger for Tybalt, and now cowardly fear.Friar Lawrence calls him, ‘fearful man’ and chides him, “Thou fond mad man…” and tries to drum up some sense in him.  Romeo and Friar Laurence make plans for Romeo’s reunion with Juliet. When Juliet is included in the plan, the just-teen girl says robustly to Friar, “O tell me not of fear.’ The gritty girl prays, “Lord, give me strength.”The reunion fails, thanks to Romeo’s impatience and lack of foresight. He hastens to Verona from Mantua, without waiting for Friar Laurence’ intimation, kills Count Paris and commits suicide. His crazy act drives Juliet to kill herself .Romeo is the cause of his mother’s death as his father says, “Grief of my son’s exile hath stopp’d her breath.”

Romeo has all the qualities of a rich lad gone astray. He can’t restrain his wild love nor his rampant rage, the very qualities of a molester. He is not gainfully employed, loafs around with his friends, gatecrashes into parties, trespasses into forbidden territory by climbing walls, forgets his former love quickly and is overzealous of the current one, goes underground when chased by law.

It’s true Romeo lived for love because he being a rich father’s son, did not have to earn his living. He died for love is also true but he took many lives with him. Before Yogiji’s police could sully Romeo’s name it was already sullied in the play. An exasperated Friar Laurence rebukes Romeo, “Art thou a man?”Lady Capulet and Tybalt call him a villain. Juliet describes him as ‘an honourable villain’, ‘O churl’. Even Juliet’s nurse advises her to marry Paris because ‘Romeo’s a dishclout to him.”

Friar Laurence describes Romeo and a typical roadside molester aptly, “Thy wild acts denote the unreasonable fury of a beast.”He advises a delinquent Romeo, “Take heed, take heed, for such die miserable.”

New India has no place for such Romeos.  As several interviews on TV channels have shown that girls in Uttar Pradesh are breathing easy because of Anti-Romeo squads. Very soon girls in other parts of India will cry out, “O Anti-Romeo squad, anti-Romeo squad, wherefore art thou anti-Romeo squad?”No doubt it will be a tragedy for the womanizers who wait for their prey outside girls’ schools and colleges or waylay innocent women in parks or secluded lanes.