Gujarat's Hidden Jewels:Lesser-known Tourist Attractions.

        Gujarat's Hidden Jewels: Lesser-known Tourist Attractions

Explore some of Gujarat's under-celebrated tourist attractions with me.I promise you, it will be an exhilarating journey, filled with a Harappan archaeological site, ancient temples,a seaside city and a bird sanctuary.

The sites are near Ahmedabad, and in and around  Porbandar and Jamnagar. They are:

Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary in Jamnagar,which is home to 300 species of migratory birds.In 2022,it was declared as a Ramsar Site.  

Kileshwar Mahadev Temple,an ancient Mahadev Temple, dating back to the Mahabharata age, is just two hours journey from Jamnagar.

The next stop will be the pretty coastal city,Porbandar,the birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi. It is  only 50 km away from Kileshwar Mahadev Temple.There are many tourist attractions in this city and the sea unfolds its beauty at every moment:be it sunrise,sunset ,the calm dawn,the magical evening and the mysterious nightfall.

The ancient Bileshwar Mahadev Temple, where Sri Krishna was its first priest is only 27 km from Porbandar.

The last stop is the marvellous,well-preserved, archaeological ruins of Harappan port city, Lothal.From Bileshwar Mahadev Temple, the distance to Lothal will be between 320 to 380 km ,depending on the highways.It will take about 6 to 7 hours.Regular cab services are available from Porbandar to Lothal.

Finally, you can come back to the mega city Ahmedabad, which is just 79 km from Lothal and take rest in one of its well-appointed hotels, suitable for every budget.

Jamnagar and Porbandar have very good hotels too,posh and pocket friendly.

The roads are good;there is abundant scenic beauty: rivulets under quaint bridges, storks and herons on the water bodies, to give you company on the secluded stretches; and the Barda Hills, your constant sentinel, spread across  Porbandar and Jamnagar. The Barda Hills, encompassing an area of 192.31 square kilometers, has a royal touch. It was divided into Rana Barda (under Porbandar's Ranas) and 'Jam Barda' (under Jamnagar's Jamsaheb), functioning as their private reserve.   

Don't forget to visit the world-famous Devbhumi Dwarka,Nageshwar Jyotirling, Somnath Temple and Gir forest within reachable distance from Jamnagar and Porbandar.

Travel and Transportation:

You can start your journey in two ways, either from Jamnagar or from Ahmedabad. Mumbai has daily, direct flights to Jamnagar and the time duration is 1 hr 10 minutes.

Mumbai: 

International Flights:Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj International Airport at Sahar is connected to major cities around the world. Flights operate from Terminal 2 (T2).It is for both international and domestic flights.

Terminal 1 (T1)at Santa Cruz is only for domestic flights,connected to important Indian cities, and is the second  busiest airport after Delhi. 

By road, the distance between Mumbai and Jamnagar is 788 km and takes about 13 hours via NH 48.By train,it will take about 14 hours.

 Ahmedabad:

Ahmedabad is well-connected to major cities in India by flights,trains, buses and cabs.

International Flights:Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel International Airport (AMD) handles all international departures and arrivals out of Terminal 2 (T2).It is connected to major cities in Middle East & Gulf;Southeast Asia and Europe.

Domestic flights:Ahmedabad Airport (AMD)offers non-stop domestic flights to 40 cities across India.Top frequent routes include Mumbai,New Delhi and Bengaluru.

By Train:There are multiple trains to Ahmedabad connecting major cities in India.You can book your tickets online from IRCTC booking platform.

By Road: At least 54 bus operators ply on this route.There are AC,sleeper and deluxe buses.Taxi services are also available, one way and round trip.The roads are good and there are very good restrooms on the way ,where the buses halt.

Precautions: 

1) While travelling by bus/train/car, don't eat food offered by unknown passengers .2) Avoid over-friendly people.3)Take care of your belongings.4)Do not carry lots of valuables /cash.

Emergency number:112; Fire:101;Police :100/112;Ambulance :108. (source:gujarat.gov.in)

If you start your journey from Ahmedabad, your first stop will be Lothal,an excellent site to see archaeological remains of a Harappan port town.Lothal is in Ahmedabad district itself. Then the order will be :Porbandar,Bileshwar Mahadev Temple,Kileshwar Mahadev Temple,Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary,Jamnagar. 

Since we lived in Jamnagar,we started our journey from there and travelled in this exact order:Jamnagar,Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary,Kileshwar Mahadev Temple,Porbandar, Bileshwar Mahadev Temple,Lothal, Ahmedabad.

Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary : Home of Sea and Shore Birds

Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary,Jamnagar:Home of Sea and Shore Birds

Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary,Jamnagar:Home of Sea and Shore Birds 

Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary, the largest bird sanctuary in Gujarat, is just 12 km away from the main city of Jamnagar . It was officially declared a sanctuary on 6^th November, 1982 (May, 1981 according to some reports). There was no way we could miss the sanctuary because a huge signboard beckoned us, “Welcome to Bird Sanctuary Khijadiya Jamnagar”. We knew we were approaching to a bird territory even before we had reached it. We suddenly heard strange whistling sounds and I began to think, “Is a car backing? I wonder why car manufacturers do not make more such backing horns to stop noise pollution!” Then we saw white birds sitting on the pebbly rivulet and we realized this was the source for those anti-noise salubrity.

Khijadiya is a distinctive man-made wetland in the northeast coastal region of Jamnagar district, which is itself situated in a semi-arid, topographical zone in India. The best time to visit this sanctuary is from October to March. The timings are 6:30 am to 6.00 pm.                                                                                                                                                        

We passed through Khijadiya village and we noticed the world’s tallest bird, a sarus crane standing in a puddle. Small village children played nearby but nobody was disturbing the bird and the crane looked relaxed too. We reached the office and paid the car fee of rupees 250 and camera fee of rupees 100.The gentleman at the office was very knowledgeable .He took us to an Interpretation Center which is a storehouse of knowledge. Large boards full of information adorned the walls. The center educates tourists on the various species of resident and migratory birds that visit the sanctuary. There are different models of birds erected in it, complete with nests and trees. It is advisable to carry drinking water because when we visited the sanctuary, we only saw lakes, birds, greenery and nothing else. This was in December, 2010.

Marshland

There are abundant birds in this sanctuary because it is situated at 70 degree -7`-17”east longitude and 22 degree -31`-27” west latitude, a conducive breeding and wintering ground for migrating birds. It is located along the Indus flyway, one of the world’s major routes for migratory birds, stretching from Siberia to the Indus valley delta in the southern Sindh province of Pakistan, with a small portion in western India’s Kutch. It is also close to the Gulf of Kutch, a central Asian flyway route, which is an important migration path of water birds covering Indian subcontinent, Africa and Southeast Asia.

Lake and Inland Vegetation Hosting a Lonely Snowy Egret

The sanctuary is 6.05 square km in length. On its one side is the sea and on the other side is fresh water which makes it a unique coastal as well as freshwater wetland. There are two embankments /bunds created to prevent saline water to flow into the mainland and to stop fresh water draining into the sea. These bunds were constructed by the royal family of Jamnagar before independence, in the 1920s and 30s, which has led to the formation of two freshwater lakes.

Embankment Separating the Sea and the Freshwater

The bunds help to prevent the seepage of salty water into the soil and to store freshwater in lakes drained from Ruparel and Kalindri rivers. The bunds are constructed with a slope so that when the  lakes overflow with rain water or surplus water from the rivers, then the excess water flows into the Gulf of Kutch (north-eastern arm of Arabian Sea) through the creeks on the other side of the embankments. Healthy, marine vegetation like marshes, salt pans and mangroves grow in these creeks. There are also various types of inland vegetation such as prosopis juliflora, forest scrub, desi babul, pilu and others. Sedges and tall grass grow on the small islands in the lakes. Geographical features like mudflats, marshy land and sandy beaches are found in the sanctuary. Farmlands border the area.

A View of the Lake

Small Islands of Tall Grass

Garganey Ducks near Sedge Bushland

Sandy Beach

Prosopis vegetation

Mangroves

Since it is a rare complex of saltwater-freshwater wetland so there is a variety of habitats and ecosystem. It provides conducive ‘breeding, feeding, roosting and staging grounds’ for diverse marine and freshwater species of birds during various seasons of the year. Hence, more than 250 to 300 species of birds congregate here, including the globally threatened Dalmatian pelican, Asian openbill stork, black-headed ibis, Eurasian spoonbill, Indian skimmer, painted stork and crab plover.  Black-necked storks which are not found anywhere in India are seen here in abundance. Freshwater birds such as herons, grebes etc. are found here. Brahminy kite, grey francolin, Indian spotted eagle, pheasant-tailed jacana, common greenshank, garganey, common teal, comb duck, Indian pond heron, demoiselle crane are sighted in this sanctuary. In 1984, Salim Ali, the legendary Indian ornithologist and naturalist spotted 104 species of birds on a single day here.

A Solitary Black Heron

Lesser Flamingos

Great Egret or Great White Heron

Rosy Pelicans near Mudflats

Dalmatian Pelicans: An Endangered Species, and a Painted Stork in Flight

This distinctive wetland attracts a large number of birds to nest in the winter season. There are different types of nests —nests on trees, nests on the ground and nests on the water (floating nests). Many varieties of ducks make floating nests. 

There are two watchtowers on the eastern and northern parts. We came from the main road and turned right. The murram road narrows considerably and on the left side is a huge lake. Brahminy ducks were near the shore but at the sound of the Sumo they flew away and hid under the water. I waited in vain to see them resurface because I could clearly hear their quacking. But they refused to come up. As we were leaving, we saw the birds paddling ferociously yet gracefully—power with poise.

Brahminy Ducks

The lake narrowed into a stream and in this stream, on a skeletal, forked wood sat 2 Cormorants: black with yellow eyes, one of them stuck out its chest and stood upright. Another dried its wings.

 Cormorants and Black-necked Ibis (at the distance)

The sanctuary plays host to birds who prefer marine, freshwater or both kinds of habitats as there is a freshwater environment on one side of the bund and a marine environment on the other. The birds get both types of food—freshwater and saltwater. The pelican on the side of the sea gets its food from the salt pan.  Cranes, hornbill, quail get their food from the crop field. There is an unmistakable food chain. The fresh water breeds lush vegetation and plankton. Fish and insects feed on them. Birds feed on these fish and insects.

Murram Pathways

Then we came to another narrow road which is sort of an uphill climb. The water below had dried up recently because the mud was still wet. From here we could see the tail of a lake where a lonely, large pelican looking like a small, white boat was floating in the water.

A Pelican near Salt Pan

But what’s this? From the mud dam we could see a gleaming, white, circular island of huge, Casablanca lilies. Everything was very silent. Only a faint, unseen, gurgling sound was coming from somewhere. It was a perfect, suspenseful setting for Alfred Hitchcock’s movie ‘Birds’. We walked very slowly towards the small, white island  through the walking tracks, crossed the shrub forests, came closer to the lake and we were astounded at the reality. A large group of uniform, white storks with protruding backs, hunched their heads in a huddle, as if they were mourning or meditating or perhaps waiting for their kill.

Lily-like snowy Island of  White Storks

 

They continued to be in a huddle and it seemed an eternity. We could not wait so long as we had other things to watch. We climbed up a watchtower and saw a view of another lake where mallard ducks were making the afternoon-shadow on the water blacker, with their shiny black coat. Amidst the huge water bodies are small islands complete with trees and shrubs or a single tree. In some places the shadow of the tree was shaping the water with its blackish rondure.

Island with Pilu and Desi Babul Trees

Then we came back to the lily-like island and there was a slight movement in the mass of white. A white stork flew away and we could see its large, orange beak and webbed feet. Another flew away, then another until there were only a few left, holding the fort. Did we disturb them? It seemed as if the young had flown away leaving the old and infirm behind. No country for old birds.

Nilgais (antelopes), wolves, mongoose, jackals, rabbits, jungle cats and a few varieties of snakes are also found in Khijadiya bird sanctuary but we did not see any of them.

When we went in 2010, in December, we were the only visitors there along with our driver. The setting was peaceful. The guide forbade our Sumo to go to all places because the roosting and nesting of birds might be disturbed.

But according to some reports, in 2016 there was a drastic fall in the number of migratory birds .This decline is attributed to the construction and development activities inside the sanctuary causing large stretches of vegetation to be cut down. Lots of benches are placed near water bodies, so that visitors can watch birds; completely heedless of the fact that such close proximity of humans might disturb the birds. Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary has now become a ‘tourist spot’ or ‘public park’ wherein  visitors talk loudly, burst firecrackers when there is a marriage party. But hopefully all efforts are being made by nature lovers, bird enthusiasts, ornithologists to preserve this exceptional freshwater-saltwater sanctuary and stop its despoilment.

You can combine a visit to the sanctuary and a pilgrimage because the ancient, holy city ,Dwarka is just 148 km away and Nageshwar Jyotirling is 16 km  away from Dwarka. Jamnagar is connected by road through private, luxury buses and state transport buses to all important cities from Gujarat, especially Ahmedabad and Vadodara. There are daily trains on the western railway with direct connections to Ahmedabad. Various domestic flights connect Jamnagar to Mumbai, and Jamnagar airport is just 10 km away from the main city.

Jamnagar Refinery, a crude oil refinery owned by Reliance Industries Limited is in Moti Khavdi which is just  58 km from Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary (1 hour 19 minutes). It is the largest refinery in the world and located so close to a functioning ,coastal ecosystem, is abundant proof that nothing is impossible. Environment and Economy can coexist harmoniously. There can be a symbiosis between  commerce, cash and undisturbed natural habitat.

The next stop will be Kileshwar Mahadev Temple which is less than 100 km from Jamnagar city.

Reliving Mahabharat Era: A Temple Built by Pandavs.

Kileshwar Mahadev Temple

The remote Kileshwar Mahadev Temple nestled amidst foothills and forests acts like a tranquil balm on a troubled mind. It is about 91.1 km from Jamnagar city, via Jamnagar-Lalpur road, passing through Naghedi, Motikhavdi, Khambaliya and finally Kileshwar.

Since we started from Motikhavdi we had the advantage of a shortened route because Kileshwar is 50 km away from Motikhavdi. After completing the entire road encompassing the refinery, the outskirts, the labor colony, we came across quite a number of villages in Khambaliya Taluka.  Narrow roads with dense greenery on either side heralded the approaching of a village. Sometimes the road was so narrow that our vehicle had to step aside to allow a lorry to pass. The first village (that we came across) was small, with few houses and a bridge over a rivulet. The village in fact would appear beautiful in the monsoons but perhaps it would be isolated because of the low bridge. Even in winter the water was just below the bridge ; so in the monsoons the water might be flowing over it, thus making it inaccessible.  Towards the shore large rocks lay scattered hither and thither , rearing their peaks through the receding water. On those rocks sat a large group of sarus cranes and black herons, basking in the sun. That pretty village was very clean and that was in 2009, when Shri Narendra Modi was the chief minister of Gujarat, before his 2014 launch of Swachh Bharat Abhiyan (Clean India Mission) as the Prime Minister.

Then we came to another village with another water-kissed bridge over a stream. During heavy rains in the monsoon months, this road might be out of bounds.

We reached the highway and came across one more bridge spanning a dry brook, full of boulders. In the monsoon this would be another precariously beautiful scene when water would flow over it in torrents. And then we reached Lalpur Town .The houses are in a straight line, starting right from the road, with no plastic packets scattered around or stuck in the vegetation or floating in the water of drains. The road was narrow but the signboards proclaimed that it was a self-sufficient town. A village market (Haat) was going on. We noticed bus stations, ATMs, hotels, restaurants and a couple of guest houses in Lalpur. Shopping complexes, hospitals, petrol pumps, schools were also holding pride of place. Lalpur Jam Railway Station falls under Western Railway Zone; and Saurashtra Express, Howrah-Porbandar Superfast Express, Porbandar-Delhi Sarai Rohilla Express stop here. Lalpur is just about 34 km away from Govardhanpur Airport (Jamnagar airport) and takes approximately 38 minutes by road.

 Then we reached Bhanvad in Jamnagar district which is 18 km away from Kileshwar. Finally, we reached the entrance gate of Kileshwar. There is an admission fee at the gate. Ordinary cars, sedans, luxury cars are a big no, no. Only SUVs or hardy vehicles can travel through the last 10 km of this rocky road. Fuel tank must be full, tires in good condition, spare tire (Stepney) in top order because nothing will be available in this stretch.  The road is rocky by every imaginable standard. The rocks are small in some areas and big in others. The bumpy road is bounded by desert shrubs and medium height bushes. Barda hills, which we had witnessed from afar on our journey, seemed very near now. No public vehicle is available in this stretch. In fact, while we were returning from Kileshwar, a group of youth hitch-hiked in our Sumo.

The Camel and the Rocky Road

Except for a lone camel there was no other living being on that road.  We crossed two bridges spanning mountain brooks. The trees growing on the shore of those rivulets were of a peculiar shape, as if they were about to fall in the water but one of their roots had caught tenaciously to the soil thus preventing their descent. So the trees looked a little above the water and in very healthy condition.

Lotus-Filled Stream and the Descending Tree  

As we are about 2 km away from the temple we came across a village of just a handful of hutments. And then we entered the temple premises through the high regal gates. According to legend, Kileshwar Mahadev Temple was constructed by the Pandavs when they stayed there during their Vanvas (exile). This might have been a good place of seclusion for the Pandavs, because even in the 21^st century it is quite isolated, bounded by the green Barda hills, dense forests, brooks and streams. 
The Shiv temple is situated on a raised platform and it is quite small. The architecture is Hindu temple architecture with semi-circular arches at the entrance of the sanctum and a tower-like dome or Shikhara on the topmost part ,just above the inner sanctum, the garbhagriha (where the primary Murti or the deity sits in a simple bare cell) . A Matka Kalash (pitcher-shaped pot)is used to top the  Shikhara. Near this main temple, there are other very small temples situated on a raised level.   There are no pestering pandas (pseudo priests) or beggars. So the pilgrims can offer their prayers to Kileshwar Mahadev peacefully. On one side of the temple is a high wall which is out of bounds, because the private chambers of the king are beyond it. The titular king of Jamnagar, Jam Sahib, frequents this place because the temple is under his royal patronage. 
A historical inscription mentions that the temple was built  by the 'Pandayvas' 4000 years ago. Due to the constant change in the ruling dynasties of Kathawar and especially the kings of Ghumli, the place suffered neglect and 'Mahomedan depredations'. But it was restored by 'His Highness Maharaja Dheraj Jam Shri Ranjit Singhji Bahadur' of Jamnagar royalty. Some sources say that His Highness Jam Sahib wanted a darshan of a local saint, Pujya Shri Trikamji Bapu. But Bapu denied him the meeting. So Jam Sahib instructed his soldiers to lock him up in Kileshwar Mahadev Mandir. After five days, Jam Sahib went to have his darshan  , but when he opened the temple doors he found out that Bapu had escaped and there was only a tiger skin asan left behind and a sweet fragrance floating in the air. It is claimed that Jam Sahib  Ranjit Singhji never managed to get Bapu's 'darshan'  (source: www.trikamjibapu.com).   
Photography is not allowed inside the temple premises. 

Kileshwar Mahadev Temple (Courtesy:jamnargar.org)

Shiva Lingam, the Reigning Deity (Courtesy: jamnagar.org)

Around the temple complex there are other structures, so that the entire area runs into several acres. There is an ancient water reservoir called Revati Kund which is a bathing place for sightseers. A huge kitchen is also noticeable. There is a gigantic, ancient banyan tree called Ravan Tree.  The existing Havan Kund was said to be used by the second Pandav, Bhim for performing Yajna (Hindu Vedic ritual) but now it is used as a bird feeder. Exotic birds come to feed on the grains scattered there. There is also an ancient well.

Revati Kund

Havan Kund

Asian Paradise Flycatcher, a frequent visitor at the Bird Feeder (Photo: S.K. Sur)

Subsidiary Structures at the Complex

Peace and Contentment under Age-Old Trees

During the month of Shravan (July-August), about 2,500 to 5000 people from Jamnagar, Porbandar and Rajkot visit this place to worship Lord Shiva, the reigning deity of Kileshwar Mahadev Temple. It is also famous as a picnic spot because the place is idyllic with the calm, pellucid waters, huge trees and the Barda Hills standing as tutelage. Trekking is another option here in the company of silent forests, immobile hills, trills and cheeps of birds, susurration of the clean breeze, rustling streams and absolute solitude.      

Hills, Forests, Brook, Bridge and Perfect Desolation 

Photographs:  Bulbul Sur.


Tags: Kileshwar Mahadev, Pandavs, Jamnagar, Lalpur, Barda Hills, Trikamji Bapu, Jam Sahib

The next stop will be Porbandar which is about 75 km away from Kileshwar Mahadev Temple and will take roughly 1.5 to 2 hours by road.

Sea-City Porbandar

 A Land of  Mythology,History,Astronomy,Culture and Spirituality.                                    

Porbandar, a city in Gujarat, lies in the south-west coast of the Arabian Sea. It is chiefly famous as the birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi. There is only a passing reference to the sea or no reference to it at all. But Porbandar has a tourist identity of its own with its mythology, history, temples and the wonderful, scenic ,peaceful chowpatty (beach). Not only that, it is situated in close proximity to world-famous places of Hindu pilgrimage. It is flanked by Dwarka, Somnath, Bileswar ,all within a time limit of a  couple of hours or sometimes less :hardly a distance of  an hour’s journey by road. Dwarka is about 102-105 km and Somnath is less than 120 km; Junagadh, the historical city is 112 km, and Sasan Gir National Park , the home of Asiatic lions is about 166-170 km from Porbandar.

History                  Sea-City Porbandar

Porbandar is known since ancient times because it is the birthplace of Sudama (Lord Krishna’s friend).Hence it also known as Sudamapuri.

Porbandar city was named after Goddess Parav. Bandar means harbor.  It is an ancient port city. Maritime activity continued here on the Saurashtra coast  since  the Harappan time in the 16-14 centuries BCE (1600-1400).There was a flourishing trade from here to Africa and the Persian Gulf.

 Many years ago it was called Pao Bandar due to its bread factories. The bread called pao ruti was made here and exported to Arab countries. 

The Jethwa clan of Rajputs ruled Porbandar since the mid-16^th century. After being subjugated by the Mughal governor of Gujarat ,conquered by the Marathas in the latter half of the 18^th century, it came under the authority of the Gaekwad royal court at Baroda and eventually of the Peshwas. In 1807 it came under the British Raj. After independence the state was acceded to the dominion of India.(Source:Wikipedia)

Commerce

The main economy of Porbandar survives on tourism and fisheries. The beach is locally known as chowpatty . There is a wide range of hotels on the beach. Dhows are still built here and fish-drying is an important activity. Porbandar is also the producer of gold and silver trinkets and it manufactures fine quality silk and cotton.

The Journey

We started from Jamnagar Reliance Township at 12 p.m. We crossed Khambaliya and then took a turn towards Porbandar. The road was narrow and sometimes gravelly but it was tree-lined with agricultural farmlands on either side. The scene was very soothing .  The fields were mainly cultivated with groundnuts. We went on 31^st  October when  the fields had been  harvested and tiny, green  saplings of wheat carpeted the fields, ready to be sown. Some fields were sown with ladies’ fingers and they  were already tall with a hint of lemon-yellow flowers. Men were rounding off the crops in a high mound  while a large group of snow-white herons watched the proceedings with undivided attention: standing too close for comfort near the farmers yet with a fearless attitude. On some fields, the farmers sat under the shade of a tree in a group, eating their lunch.

Our journey continued. The road was sparsely lined with trees. In some areas the spiky  stems bore green leaflings, and though they formed a cluster with their closely-knit green heads, they were too insufficient to block the harsh, afternoon sunlight. Suddenly, the road became dark with a line of thickly-foliaged huge trees standing as colonnades on either side and making the road dark like a moonless night.      

Then we saw a tiny, trickling stream , bordered by green vegetation, and we knew we were in the vicinity of a farmhouse. Sure enough, after long tracks of cultivated, harvested fields, we suddenly saw a white and cream hued, two-storey house through the thick grove of coconut trees. At a safe distance away there were some ramshackle huts.

Wherever our eyes reached ,there were green fields , rivulets, thin strands of tricking water forming streams and meadows populated with birds; especially white and grey herons.

As we neared Porbandar, the roads widened. We crossed a bridge, with freshly-painted white railings to arrive at asphalt-paved smooth, wide roads. Porbandar has arrived: a neat city with an air of tranquillity, grace and elegance.

Places of Tourist Attraction in Porbandar

 Bharat Mandir

Bharat Mandir

The Bharat Mandir is worth a look because it is a  culmination of entire India :her illustrious sons, her famous places, her Gods and Goddesses. The idol of Bharat Mata is in the main hall. You climb a couple of steps and come across  a gallery where a huge relief map of India adorns the floor. The main building is two-storey and rectangular, standing in a verdant complex. It showcases India’s rich history and heritage. There are pictures and sculptures of Hindu mythology and history, artifacts of Indian culture. Paintings and quotes adorn the surrounding wall and pillars. It is a very educative place as well as pleasing to the eye and an ideal destination not only for students but also for the general populace. Photography is allowed in Bharat Mandir.

Planetarium

The Planetarium is just opposite the Bharat Mandir. The ticket fee is nominal. It is called Akash Griha. It is also called Shri Jawaharlal Nehru planetarium. It is the fifth planetarium in India; following the planetariums in Pune, Delhi, Muzaffarpur and Kolkata (sequentially).It was opened in 1965. It was sponsored by Nanjibhai Kalidas Mehta, an industrialist and philanthropist of Porbandar. The planetarium has a gallery dedicated to Quit India Movement. It is the first of the three  8m dome planetariums with ZeiSS ZK P1 projectors. The other two planetariums with such features are in Vijayawada and Surat.

 Kirti Mandir

Kirti Mandir: Entrance to Gandhiji's House
 (Photo:Jaydip3212, wikimedia commons)

Another place which gives Porbandar its hallowed identity is of course Kirti Mandir , the birth place of Mahatma Gandhi. It is a memorial house in remembrance of Mahatma Gandhi and Kasturba Gandhi. But the location is in a crowded locality, through narrow lanes, zigzagging around old houses and shops. We had parked our car at Sudama Chowk and from there we took an auto to Kirti Mandir.

 Kirti Mandir was actually built due to Nanjibhai Kalidas Mehta’s efforts and money. He created a trust and convinced Gandhiji to sell his ancestral house to the trust so that it could be preserved as a memorial. 

Gandhiji's Ancestral House
(Photo:Rohit Agarwal,wikimedia commons)

Gandhiji’s house is kept in very good condition. It is a typical Kutch technique of architecture, built in a haveli style. It was bought in 1777 by Gandhiji’s grandfather, and subsequently new floors and wings were added to it. The house is three-storey with 24 rooms. The doors are low, and the windows are small. The inside is dark and cool. This ancestral house of Gandhiji is entered through the museum. There is a large courtyard at the entrance and the museum is built around it. Photographs are displayed on the walls of the slim veranda, lining the corridor. There is no entry fee. Photography is prohibited . This museum which is adjacent to the house has rare and very old  photographs of Gandhiji. The glass almirah houses his memorabilia, and utensils used by him –a tea kettle for example. There is a library that has books written by Gandhiji  and books (by other authors) propounding his philosophy.

Sudama Mandir (Temple)

Sudama Mandir

The Sudama temple dates back to the first decade of the 20^th century. It was built in 1902-1908 by H.H. Bhavsinghji Madhavsingji , the Maharaja of Porbandar, on the site of a 12^th century temple. Sudama was Lord Krishna’s close friend, in whose memory the temple was built. The noteworthy feature is the elaborately carved shikara (tower ) and the arcade supported by beautiful, marble pillars encompassing the entire temple. The multifoil arches are delicately carved. The spandrels of the arches are  intricately designed. There is also a Sudama Kund (well) with steps leading down but it has been secured by an  aluminium net.

The Kund

Shri Hari Mandir

Shri Hari Mandir

Shri Hari Mandir is another attraction of Porbandar. It is located on the campus of Sandipani Vidhyaniketan, a renowned Gurukul. The Gurukul is an epicenter for practical training of rituals given to Rishikumars. It is a focal point of culture and spirituality. The Mandir is dedicated to many Gods: such as Lakshmi Narayan, Radha Krishna, Shri Hanumanji, Shri Ganesh, Karunamayi Ma. It is said to be one of the biggest temple in Saurashtra. Tourist footfall is also the most in this sacred place.

The Aesthetic Campus of Shri Hari Mandir 

 Jambavan/Jambavant Cave

This cave dates back to the Ramayan age. It is just 17 km from Porbandar railway station. This ancient cave is located at Ranavav near Porbandar city. It is situated near Saurashtra Cement factory.

Jambavan Cave or Jambavan ki Gufa was the resting place of the warrior Jambuvan, the divine king of bears; created by Lord Brahma to assist Lord Ram against Ravan. It is believed that this is the place where Lord Krishna and Jambuvan fought for the Syamantaka jewel for 28 days. When Jambuvan understood that his opponent was Lord Krishna  he withdrew from the battle and gave the jewel to Sri Krishna. There is an exact spot in the cave marking the encounter of Jambuvan with Sri Krishna where he gave Sri Krishna not only the jewel but also his daughter’s hand in marriage. The cave has 50 Shivlingas which are natural formations.  There are two tunnels inside the cave :one leads to Dwarka and the other to Junagadh.

The Beach

Then we came to the beach. There was a lone restaurant on the beach called Jamuna restaurant. The ambience is excellent because the windows open to the sea and it is  a great experience to sip a cold drink and gaze at the sea. There are many good hotels opposite the beach and we stayed in one of them. You just climb down a flight of steps from your hotel campus, cross the road and voila! The sea is here. The sea is unique because there are reefs which form table cloth-sized bays.

The sunset is a good view with the waters and the sky becoming rainbow tinted with different hues: grey, pink, crimson, maize yellow , cement –grey all stretched like a semicircle.

The Sun on its Last Legs

Enchanting Stages of Sunset

The reefs were a sight to behold. They looked like dried ant hills with stalagmite-like steeples and hollows. We went down to the beach to wash our feet. It was a sight to watch the waters rushing in and filling the hollows of the reef like a game of bagatelle.

The Reefy Coastline

Small Bays Formed by Reefs

Reefs Washed by the Sea  

Sea Inundating the Reefs

The Sea at Dusk

The beach became crowded in degrees: first the occasional walkers and tourists, then people in groups and lastly the vendors with their carts of green coconuts, chips etc. lining up the road. Since vehicular traffic of all types are banned on the beach road, people walked and frolicked freely. There were semi-circular promenades. We unearthed more beauties on the beach, as we walked farther on. There were lots of stone benches and round stone. stools for sitting.  There were many erstwhile bungalows and new houses  opposite the beach.

But what struck our attention was a massive, beige –hued  palace  on the beach called Huzoor Palace. It stretched from end to end. Its length and breadth were colossal though it was just two-storeyed.

As the sun set, the evening turned darker and the moon on Huzoor Palace looked brighter.

The Sea after Sunset

Huzoor Palace

Huzoor Palace, Stretching from End to End on the Beach
(photo:Milanraninga80 wikimedia commons)

The Royal Palace in Porbandar is called Huzoor Palace and it is situated on Chowpatty Beach. It is a historical place and one of the most sought after tourist attraction. It was built by Natwar Singhji, the last ruler of the princely state of Porbandar during the early 20^th century. It is also known as Raj Mahal. It stands on the sea shore. Its innumerable, large windows on both the floors open to the  sea.

Architectural Beauty of Huzoor Palace
(Photo: wikimedia commons)

It is built in  European, architectural style, having semi-circular porticoes with neo-classical columns, fountains and gardens. Visitors are not allowed inside the palace, but during Navratri festival people come here to pay respect to royalty.

The Huzoor Palace along the Seafront

The early morning was another scene on the chowpatty, also referred to as Marine Drive. As the grey morning unfolded ,swimmers and potential swimmers lined up on the beach. There was a swimming school on the beach and also a changing room. Many boys, girls and semi-adults jumped into the water to swim or to learn swimming.

The Neat Beach at Dawn

The Sea in the Morning

Dugong

Porbandar is ‘one of the  last coasts remaining where the threatened marine mammal dugong can be found’ (Wikipedia).It is called ‘daria ka gai’by local fishermen which means sea-cow.

                   Dugong Mother and Calf (wikimedia commons)

A carcass believed to be of a dugong was found in May 2012 on the chowpatty coastline near Porbandar.

Towards Somnath

The journey from Porbandar to Somnath is enchanting. We crossed a cement factory, Saurashtra chemicals and a Kendriya Vidyalaya and moved towards Somnath. We again crossed a bridge with freshly-painted white railings, and moderate water flowing below, and  the sun rising above it.The sea was nowhere in the vicinity. The houses were neat and tidy, not  any great work of architectural skill. There were however some ramshackle mansions with bosky gardens, whitish, closed windows, paint –peeling and darkish walls. They look abandoned. Probably when they were made,  the owners of the houses could see the sea right from their verandas. 

We felt sad that we had left the sea behind us but that was not to be because we saw the sea at a great distance. It was all along with us  and just when we felt that the sea was far away, we travelled just a bit and the sea was right next to the highway; so near as if the white foam on the sea were lashing at us. We had reached Madhopur beach.

The beach is about 2-3 km in length.There were a couple of seating arrangements below shades and of course there were coconut sellers.Madhopur town also had old houses by the sea: sad, dark and derelict.People who live near the sea should not have any sorrow because all sorrows and lack pale into insignificance before the illimitableness of the sea, signifying man’s potential and his beauty which are far, far greater and stronger than man’s sorrow.

And then started the huge coconut farms over many acres of land,  the ground dark with their extensive foliage . An occasional elegant farmhouse stuck out through the leaves. Some trees looked so close , as if the barks would entwine each other .The coconut trees near the road were at a suitable distance. And just by the side of the road were very old banyan trees with their roots reaching down to the ground.

Then we reached Somnath. Om Namay Sivah. We parked our car at a distance and walked all the way. Cameras are not allowed inside the temple but there are professional photographers who gave us almost instant photographs.

The sea could be seen from the temple top .The beach was crowded with shops ,coconut sellers ,camel rides, horse and pony rides.

Distance

Jamnagar to Porbandar is 130 km We went at an average speed of 60 miles per hour and it took us one hour twenty minutes.

Porbandar is well connected. There are flights from Mumbai, Delhi, Ahmedabad. Trains run from Porbandar to Mumbai Central, New Delhi (NDLS), Delhi Sarai Rohilla, Kochuveli (Kerala) and Howrah (Kolkata). Buses run by State Transport Corporation and private enterprises connect Porbandar to Ahmedabad ,Dwarka, Veraval(near Somnath), Diu, Rajkot, Vadodara, Junagadh etc.             

 Here you might want to take a detour and visit Dwarka which is 104 km via NH 51 and takes  1 hour 42 minutes by road.

You can also visit Somnath which is 118 km away and takes about 2 hour 23 minutes ,You can halt at Veraval, a coastal city, (also known as Somnath) before proceeding to Somnath.It is only 5 to 7 km away from Somnath. There are good hotels in Veraval for a night halt. 

Veraval,a major port city is also the headquarters of Gir Somnath district.The distance between Porbandar to Gir forest is about 184 km and takes 3 hours 39 minutes by road via NH 51.It is closed from 16th June to 15th October annually for the monsoon season.   

Tags: Mahatma Gandhi, Sea, Planetarium, dugong, Sudama

Bileshwar Mahadev Temple

Bileshwar Mahadev Temple

              A Mahadev Shrine whose first Pujari was Sri Krishna

Bileshwar Mahadev Temple, Porbandar, Gujarat

A Section of Shri Bilnath Mahadev Temple 

Bileshwar Temple/Shri Bilnath Mahadev Temple is located in a small village called Bhilleshwar in Porbandar district in Gujarat, India. Bhilleshwar  is situated on the banks of Bhilleshwari river. This river is now called Bhil/Bil Ganga. It rises in Barda Hills and flows past the village to join Minsar River.

Shri Bilnath Mahadev Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is the oldest temple of Lord Shiva in the region. As per mythology, the first puja was done by Sri Krishna. The lingam inside the Sanctum Sanctorum is known as Shayambhu,  which means It came into existence automatically and it appears to be a natural stone..

 This ancient temple is in excellent condition because it is maintained by the Rabaris and Charans of  nearby states and villages. They are tribal clans of Gujarat and are mainly pastoralists. They are also ardent devotees of Shiva. Porbandar State (a princely state ruled by the Jethwa dynasty) and Navanagar state  ( a princely state ruled by the Jadeja dynasty) have endowed this shrine with land.

Origin

The Entrance to the Sanctum Sanctorum

The origin of Bileshwar  Mahadev was due to Lord Krishna. Satyabhama, one of Lord Krishna’s wives asked Him to bring parijaat tree (sacred Baobab ) which only grows in Lord Indra’s  garden. Krishna first sent Narad Muni to get the tree but when the king of Gods, Lord Indra refused to part with it, Krishna went to the garden and got the tree. A fight ensued between Lord Krishna and Lord Indra. The war stopped at sunset and both the commanders rested on Pariyatra mountain, which is now known as Barda Hills. In the morning, Sri Krishna offered prayers to Goddess Ganga .The Goddess, pleased at His devotion, came out of a cave in the form of water which formed a lake. Sri Krishna named the lake Bil Ganga. Subsequently, Krishna offered prayers to Lord Shiva. Shiva too was pleased at His ardent prayers and appeared before Him. He also promised to fulfill His desires. It is said that Mahadev presented the Sudarshan Chakra (the divine weapon of Lord Vishnu) to  Lord Krishna here. Sri Krishna then installed Shiva at that very spot and named the shrine Bilvadakeshvar which is now known as Bileshwar.

Bil Ganga

Steps Leading to Bil Ganga

Another legend says Lord Krishna prayed to Lord Shiva (Mahadev) for a son at this temple with Bilva  (stone apple) leaves,because Lord Shiva is easily pleased with Bilva leaves. That’s how the temple /village came to be known as Bileshwar.

Three fairs are held here every year :two during the holy month of Shravan (July-August) and the third on Mahashivratri day.

Structure

The Pyramidal Spire of the Temple

It is an example of Gujarati architectural style. This west –facing temple is the largest from Maitraka period (approximately 475-776 A.D.) in Saurashtra. More than  one hundred temples of this period have come to light. Almost all of them are located in the coastal belt of western Saurashtra  region, except the one at Kalsar, and a few temples in the Barda Hill region. The Maitraka kings were followers of Shiva, and except Dharapatta (the fifth king of this dynasty), all practised Shaivism. This is manifested in the use of Shiva’s symbols such as Nandi ( Bull) and Trishul ( Trident) in their coins and inscriptions. Hence, it is no surprise that temples dedicated to Lord Shiva were built during that period. Bileshwar temple is one of them.        

The Temple's Pyramidal Spire contrasts with Domes and Arches of Subsidiary Buildings  

It was built in the 7^th century. The structure of the temple is pyramidal. It is built on a high platform with an extended ambulatory instead of a mandap ( temple porch).  Inside the temple, the Shivlinga is accompanied by the idols of Devi Ganga and Devi Parvati.

The Temple and its Subsidiary Structures 

The Temple on a High Platform 

Flight of Steps Leading to the Platform

Uniqueness

In Lord Shiva’s temples, His celestial vehicle, Nandi (Bull) always faces the Shivlinga inside the temple. But in Bileshwar Mahadev Temple, Nandi is in the temple’s courtyard .  According to legends, when the Mughal Emperor, Aurangzeb’s army had captured the village and had come to demolish the temple, Nandi came outside and stopped them. It is said that as the  Mughal army attempted  to break the linga, the linga burst, emitting hundreds of wasps .The enemy soldiers were bitten mercilessly. Many of them were killed and the rest fled. From then onwards, to prevent further aggression, Nandi stays outside as a tutelary power guarding the temple.

Nandi ,The Celestial Vehicle Of Lord Shiva

This temple is a protected place under the Gujarat Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains Act 1965 (Gujarat act no: 25 1965).

Reaching Bileshwar Mahadev Temple

It is 27 kms from the coastal city of Porbandar. Porbandar is connected to the major cities of Gujarat and India by rail, road and air transport.

 Photographs: Bulbul Sur.

Tags: Bileshwar Mahadev Temple,Porbandar, Gujarat, Bil Ganga, Parijaat

Indus Valley Civilization

Lothal, Gujarat

Indus Valley Civilization, Lothal

Lothal is one of the southernmost cities  of the ancient Indus Valley civilization. The ruins of this 4,000 year-old city  is located in the Bhal region in Gujarat, India. It is situated near the village of Saragwala in the Dholka taluka of Ahmedabad district.

Lothal (Loth + thal) means “the mound of the dead” in Gujarati. The city of Mohenjo-daro means the same in Sindhi. Lothal city is built on a mound that was ‘a salt marsh inundated by tide’.

The construction of the site was started in 2200 BCE. It was excavated from 1955 to 1960 by ASI (Archaeological Survey of India). The findings consisted of a mound, a township, a market place and the dock.

Extent and Major Sites of the Indus Valley Civilisation
photgraph:Avantiputra 7 commons.wikimedia.org

The Dockyard

Lothal had the world’s earliest-known dock. This is proved beyond doubt by the National Institute of Oceanography, Goa, who discovered marine microfossils ,salt and gypsum crystals in the  basin. This is only possible if sea water had once filled the structure.

The Dock  

In 1961, when archaeologists resumed excavation, they found trenches sunk on the northern, eastern and western flanks of the mound. These were inlet channels (ravine or gully) connecting the dock with the river. A stable water level was maintained in the dock through a canal opening, which allowed water to flow into the river.

Inlet Channels 

Lothal was selected for making the dock for a specific reason. The city was built near Bhogava River,a tributary of the Sabarmati River. It is just 30 km from the Gulf of Khambat (Gulf of Cambay).The marine engineers of Lothal had a great knowledge of tides. The Gulf of Khambat has the highest tidal strength, and the ships can be sluiced through flow tides in the river tributaries or creeks. The dockyard is a trapezoidal structure. Its north-south length is approximately 215 metres (705 feet) and its east-west width is 35 metres (115 feet).

The Warehouse

The warehouse was built close to the acropolis, so that the rulers could supervise the activity on the dock and warehouse simultaneously.

Wharf /Quay

In order to facilitate cargo, there was also a mud-brick wharf/quay of 220 metres long (720 feet) built on the western arm of the dock with a ramp, leading to the warehouse.

Lothal engineers were adept in hydrography and maritime engineering, even 4000 years ago. The walls of  the dock and its ancillary buildings were constructed with burnt bricks because the super intelligent, marine engineers studied the tidal movements and their effect on brick-built structures.  

City Planning

Layout of Lothal
Photograph:Nizil Shah commons.wikimedia.org

Small Channels

Small channels suggest the presence of a strong, tidal influence upon the city; and there was the problem of  water ingress  up to the city and into it. During the entire civilisation, the residents of Lothal had to battle against floods and storms.Therefore, the city planners made adequate arrangements to  protect the city against floods.Peripheral walls were built to protect the city against natural phenomena.

Peripheral Walls

Town Planning

Blocks of Platforms

Ancient Structures

The town was divided into blocks of platforms on which 20-30 houses were built. These blocks were 1-2 metre (3-6 ft.) high. Like Dholavira,  Lothal city was divided into the Citadel/Acropolis and a lower town. The king and people of high places lived in the citadel. The lower town had two sections :the commercial area and the residential area. 

Lower Town

The commercial area was located on a north-south, high-capacity, urban road which was flanked by shops of merchants and craftsmen. The residential area was located on either side of the market place.  

Lifestyle

The planning of the city, the uniformity of streets, the absence of encroachment, existence of a sump to deposit solid waste by the householders, cleanliness of the city, existence of drains, manholes and cesspools  showed that there was good governance; the inhabitants were disciplined. Municipal administration, commerce, day-to-day living was performed according to the strict guidelines laid down by the government.  Weights, measures, seals, metal tools and other equipment were of uniform standard.

Drainage

The Main Well

An ancient well has been found during excavation. It is built of radial bricks. 

An Ancient Well and the City Drainage Canals

The well is 2.4 metres (7.9 feet) in diameter and 6.7 metres (22  feet) deep. It had a perfect network of underground drains, silting chambers and cesspools; and inspection chambers for solid waste. The waste was deposited in the river which was washed out during high tide.

Bathroom-Toilet Structure of the Houses at Lothal

A block of bricks placed in the main drainage canal with 4 holes, with net, to filter out solid waste was installed.

Drains, Manholes and Cesspools

Metals

Lothal was an important and busy trading centre in ancient times. The traded articles, such as beads, gems and valuable ornaments were sold to distant places in West Asia and Africa. Lothal, during its heyday ,imported copper, chert, semi-precious stones from Mohenjo-daro, Harappa, Larkana valley, Bijapur(Karnataka), Dholavira and Bet Dwarka. It exported beads, gemstones, ivory and shells. Trade network extended to Egypt, Bahrain and Sumer. Lothal copper is exceptionally pure because it is devoid of arsenic. Lothal  was one of the most important production centre of shell-working. Lothal produced  a large quantity of gold ornaments. Ornaments worn by Vedic priests and gold-wire rings similar to the ones used by modern Hindus for weddings were unearthed at the archaeological site.

Lothal craftsmen were the pioneers in the techniques and tools used for bead making and in metallurgy which are still contemporary even after 4000 years.

Lothal boasts of  micaceous Redware pottery which was not found in contemporary Indus cultures. Lothal artists were adept in realistic painting; of depicting animals in their natural surroundings. A scene resembling the story of The Fox and the Crow  (of Panchatantra) is portrayed on a large vessel, found at the excavation site.

A Water Tank made of Burnt Bricks and Lined with Red Clay pottery

Ancient Burnt Bricks bonded with Mortar Bond 

All the construction in Lothal were made of fire-dried bricks, lime and sand mortar. Hence, they withstood the test of 4000 years and are still intact; more durable than sun-dried bricks. They are still bonded with each other with mortar .

Lothal had thrived for many years, even after the Indus Valley Civilization had decayed in Mohenjo-daro and  Harappa. As recently as 1850,boats could sail up to the mound. In 1942, timber was shipped from Broach (modern Bharuch) to  Saragwala via the mound. A silted creek connecting modern Bholad with Lothal and Saragwala represents the ancient flow channel of a river or creek.

The city was not a large one. It was  abandoned due to natural disasters especially floods. Scanty rainfall due to climate change was another factor for the inhabitants to abandon Lothal.

Ancient Anchor found at the Site

Reaching Lothal

The best option of visiting Lothal is from Ahmedabad which is 83 km away. Ahmedabad is connected by rail and air to the rest of India. The all-weather roads leading to Ahmedabad are good. The driving time to Lothal from Ahmedabad is 1 hour, 43 minutes.

Modhera which boasts of the 11th century  Sun Temple is 140 km from Lothal and the driving time is 3 hours, 25 minutes.

Patan, which has the glorious 11th century Rani-Ki-Vav/Ranki Vav (Queen's stepwell), is 193 km from Lothal and the driving time is 4 hours, 1 minute.   

We went from Vadodara (Baroda) which is 127.06 km from Lothal and the driving time is about 2 hours, 30 minutes.We enjoyed the trip to Lothal archaeological site in 2009 and I was enchanted with the intelligence,foresight and engineering skills of our ancestors. A very nice and knowledgeable gentleman at the archaeological site acted as our guide. 

 

Topography Of Lothal

Source:Indus Valley Civilization, Lothal

 

Photographs :Bulbul Sur and S.K.Sur.

Tags: Lothal ,Redware, World's First Dock, Drainage, Ancient Well

Within 1 hour 30 minutes you can reach Ahmedabad from Lothal.The distance between them is about 78 km.