Jaigarh Fort ,Jaipur
A Superb Specimen of Military Architecture,Water Conservation and a Hush-Hush Treasure Trove
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| Jaigarh Fort courtesy: Abhinavmnnit Wikimedia commons |
At Subhat Niwas, the king was briefing his soldiers about strategies to be adopted to counter a possible aggression. Suddenly, he was informed that the enemy, in a surprise attack, had overpowered the guards at the gate and had entered the fort. The undaunted king ordered his commander to meet the exigency, while he retreated through a secret tunnel to a safer venue, Khilbati Niwas, to open a second line of defense. The intruders pursued the king but the escape tunnel was too narrow. Moreover, after a certain distance, it became pitch dark. The guard, invisible in the darkness, could see the foes enter the tunnel in single file. He intercepted them easily, while the king had ample time to escape.
Meanwhile in the courtyards , the soldiers had encircled the opponents who had no place to retreat, because all the doors leading to other apartments were closed .Outside, the attackers could not scale the fort because thorny bushes beyond the ramparts formed obstacles .
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| Various Corners of the Bulwark of Impregnable Jaigarh Fort courtesy: Wikimedia commons |
The walls were extended in angles , to lessen the chances of a direct hit . The defending soldiers had positioned themselves at different cusps on the battlements and shot down the intruders or rolled down stones from above. Through the embrasures (gun holes) in the battlements the archers or cannoneers would shoot through at the enemy. The enemy was at a disadvantage, because there were hardly any deep ravines or projecting cliffs near the fort to shelter them from the onslaught.
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| Gun Holes (Embrasures) |
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| Embrasures in the Battlements, which are wider in the Inside than Outside |
This is a battle scene in Jaigarh fort, which is a remarkable example of military architecture. It is 15 km. from Jaipur city and one and a half km. from Amber Palace. It is 602 m. above mean sea level. Its length extends 3 km. from north to south and its width is 1 km. from east to west. The whole area is secured with a fortified wall, so long, that it covers almost the entire Aravalli hilly area. This wall was further guarded with 27 chowkies/check posts.
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Unending Ramparts with Diya Burj (Turret of Lamps) in the Distance |
History of Jaigarh Fort
The medieval rulers believed in the Divine right of Kingship and considered that their primary duty was to protect their subjects and the honor of their women. For this they needed a stronghold which could give security not only to royalty but also to the citizens. Hence, they built forts small or big, garh or garhi. Forts to medieval kings were not only crucial for war and defense purposes but also symbolized power and wealth .So, the bigger the king, the grander the fort.
The history of Jaigarh Fort dates back to Kakil Deo, son of Duleh Rai, the first Kachhawa/Kachhawaha ruler to enter Dhundhar in the 10
The main purpose of Jaigarh Fort is exemplified by its guardian deity, Kal Bhairav. The idol is in black stone and has eight hands, each hand holding a weapon. The protector is a fierce form of Lord Shiva, and in Jaigarh Fort, a small temple is dedicated to it. It was built by Kakil Deo in 1036 A.D.
Kal Bhairav Temple built by Kakil Deo in 1036 A.D.
There is also a Ram Sita Mandir in the fort complex which is 800 years old.
Kakil Deo founded Jaigarh Fort in 1036 AD, on the spine of the northern range of the Aravalli mountain range, called cheel ka teela (Hill of Eagles). It was further developed, modernized and remodeled by Raja Man Singh I (1589-1614) and Mirja Raja Jai Singh (1621-1667).
The fort has three entrance gates - Dungar Darwaza in the south; Awani Darwaza (the oldest) in the east; and the third is Sagari Gate, through the west—towards Sagar, the well-known tank of Amber. Formerly known as Amber Fort, it was christened Jaigarh by Sawai Jai Singh II (1699 - 1743).
Military Architecture
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| A Portion of the Crenelated Fortification courtesy: Ameya_Clicks Wikimedia commons |
Jaigarh Fort is 'Giri/Parvat Durg or a hill fort which is considered to be the best among all kinds of forts. During medieval times, it was one of the most important forts of Rajasthan because of its strategic location, as it lay in the trade route from Delhi to Gujarat and Malwa.
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| Watch Tower courtesy: Vssun commons.wikimedia.org |
Armory Gallery
That Jaigarh Fort's main purpose was to serve as a defense fortress is further reflected in the museum which stretches across the length and breadth of Jaigarh Fort. In the armory gallery, plans and war maps, medieval rockets, guns such as matchlock, flintlock and zamburak (camel gun) are displayed. Cannon Nagin, Cannon Shiv van, Cannon Dhoomvan etc. are some among the many that hold pride of place in the museum. The earliest cannon is the Karak Bijli Cannon made during Raja Bhagwan Das and it was used by the army of Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II in the battles fought in Bihar, Bengal, Orissa, Deccan etc. It is said that cannon making in Jaigarh foundry continued till late 19th century.
The Armory gallery contains Artillery Tools and rockets. The war rockets were introduced in the 18th century. The rockets in Jaigarh were cast iron cylinders filled with gunpowder, fixed with a fuse. They were used near the cavalry to throw front line troopers into disarray.
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The wrapped cylindrical objects on the top shelf are Rockets.
The bottom shelf contains 'Time Bomb' Grenades
The 18th century Shiv Van Cannon, perhaps manufactured in the fort foundry during Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II . |
| Time Bombs and Gun powder testing machine |
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Central Shield, probably made from Rhinoceros Skin,Moon Arrows designed with a crescent shape The spiritual significance of the weapons is exemplified by the Vayu Mantra (wind mantra) plaque above the shield. |
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| Long-barreled firearms called Matchlock Rifles, and Zamburak, a camel-mounted Cannon |
Rajput Water Conservation in Jaigarh Fort
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| The path of the rain water through the undulating channel |
This conservation is not only pleasing to the eye but very functional. In Jaigarh Fort, water was necessary for the soldiers,residents, foundry, ceremonial gardens and animals. This massive amount of water in an arid region like Rajasthan needed to be collected and stored in a strict and ingenious way. And the system developed was a masterclass,through a complex network of drains and small canals constructed along the hills. There was no artificial pumping to distribute water throughout the fort. The water moved through the canals entirely by gravity and natural landscape contours of slopes and elevations. As the rain fell on the Aravalli range, it flowed through the first canal at the lowest level on the plains, constructed by Kail Deo,complete with pipes and a net.It still exists by the side of the road. As the water moved through the canals, mud, stones, debris were strained in the net. It entered the fort and then one part of the water was diverted to the open tank/pond, used for the upkeep of animals. When it was full,the gate was closed and then the water entered the covered tanks through another route .Sedimentation continued,so that when the water moved to the third tank ,it was very clean and potable. When the second tank filled up, the water flowed to the third tank. The third tank is massive and can store 6 million gallons of water. It is under the central courtyard and it is fitted with small, latticed windows to keep the water cool. Steps are built in the tanks, so that if the water level has reduced,you can climb down and take out water manually.
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| Path of the rain water when it plunges below and enters inside through the small gap |
The first and second tanks with steps
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| The huge third tank under the central courtyard |
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| Sagar Lake from the Ramparts of Jaigarh Fort |
Sagar Lake is an artificial lake constructed in the 16th century by Sawai Jai Singh II. It served as an important water conservation reservoir for Jaigarh and other palaces and forts.
Entrance Gates,Palaces and Courtyards
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| Entrance Gate of Jaigarh Fort courtesy: Jakub Halun Wikimedia commons |
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| Main Entrance Gate, Dungar Darwaza,located near the primary ticket counter |
If we enter the palace through Dungar Darwaza, we come to the Jaleb Chowk (which houses the offices and two museum galleries) and the first complex that we encounter is Subhat Niwas, the courtyard where the king addressed his soldiers before a war .It is 150 ft. from east to west in width and 168 ft. from north to south in length. The attached hall where plans and strategies were discussed during war time, measures 69 by 34 feet.
Khilbati Niwas or Hall of Private Audience, stands on a high platform and measures 32 by 13 ft. The king used it as a private space to meet ministers , army generals, Thakurs and Thikanedars (nobles) where secret matters of the state and strategies of war were discussed. The distinctive feature of Khilbati Niwas was that it was built of a special material which made the sounds echo.
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The entrance archway and upper pavilion structure of Khilbati Niwas with decorative arches and windows are a blend of Rajput and Mughal architecture . |
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| Diya Burj Courtyard |
Lakshmi Vilas Palace
This regal palace is notable for its 12 marble pillars and arched pathways.
The white marble flooring and intricate stone decorative pillars.
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| A Rajput architecture with arched doorways in the huge Lakshmi Vilas Courtyard. |
Surya Mandir
This is an eleventh-century building with seven rooms, each accompanied with a veranda. It houses the tools for gun foundry, carpentry and blacksmithing.
Ranawat Chowk
In its heydays, it was used as a durbar or royal court. Later, as new palaces were added to Jaigarh Fort, it became a place for making matchlock guns. At present, it is used as a store room for ancient military equipment such as cannon wheels and shafts of gun carriages.
Vijaygarhi
In the south-west part of Jaigarh Fort is Vijaygarhi. It is a small castle within the fort and since its first inception it is being used as the armory . This heavily-fortified castle is the only building in the whole fort which has gun bases in all its four corners. In one of its areas Sawai Jai Singh II kept his brother, Vijay Singh as a prisoner. Since then it is called Vijaygarhi.
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| Ancient wooden doors with arched corridors in one of the courtyards |
Strategic Tunnels
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| A Tunnel in Jaigarh Fort courtesy: Vssun Wikimedia commons |
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| Description at the Entrance of a Tunnel courtesy: Vssun Wikimedia commons |
What makes Jaigarh Fort unique among all the forts in India and perhaps in the world, is its several covered and uncovered tunnels. The tunnels in Jaigarh Fort is a magnificent display of the military acumen of the rulers. Besides the tunnel for the king's escape from Subhat Niwas to Khilbati Niwas, there are other tunnels leading to all parts of the fort. From the roof of the Royal Palace Lakshmi Vilas, a 116 ft. tunnel passes to Lalit Mandir, the summer palace of the royal family. The royal kitchens are connected to Lalit Mandir by a 107 ft. tunnel which opens out to the Aram Mandir (16th century royal garden house) and the garden. The Aram Mandir is connected by a 263 ft. tunnel to the 17th century Vilas Mandir ( meeting place for royal ladies).The double-storied 17th century Puppet theater for royal audience is connected to the courtyard of Vilas Mandir by a 93 ft. long tunnel.
Jaivan,World's largest Cannon on Wheels
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| Jaivan courtesy :Swapnil Karambelkar Wikimedia commons |
Jaigarh has the world’s largest cannon on wheels called Jaivan. It was cast in 1720 during the reign of Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II (1699-1743) at the foundry in Jaigarh Fort. Its range is 22 miles (1 mile=1.6 km approximately). Jaivan cannon rests on a high, four-wheeled carriage. The height of the front wheels is 9 ft. and the height of the rear wheel is 4 and a half feet. The barrel of the cannon is 20 ft. 2 inches and it weighs 50 tons. For firing each shot, 100 kilograms of gunpowder and a cannon ball weighing 50 kg were used. The barrel of the cannon rests on a 24 ft. long shaft. The other cannon called Bajrangvana (1691) is an example of a garrison cannon and it was driven to the battlefield by 32 oxen.
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| A wide view of Jaivan |
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| Muzzle of Jaivan Cannon |
Swastika and other Hindu, religious symbols of auspiciousness can be seen at the mouth of Jaivan cannon.
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| Water Body below the Courtyard housing Jaivan |
A water body was dug up because the cannon fired with a loud sound.As soon as the soldiers fired the shot they would jump into the lake, so that the sound of the cannon burst would be mitigated. In spite of such precautions, people lost their lives.
Gun Foundry
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| Courtyard of the Cannon Foundry within the Fort Complex courtesy: anupamg, Wikimedia commons |
This 16th century gun foundry with its tools spreads over an area of 162 by 57 feet .It was built during the reign of Man Singh I. Maharaja Man Singh, the Commander-in-chief of Akbar's army attacked Kabul in 1580,won the battle and remained as Governor of Kabul for 6 years where he acquired the knowledge of making cannons. The gun foundry had a reverberatory, open hearth furnace; its oval-shaped bath/hearth was made of refractory material. The furnace could bear a temperature of 1200 degree centigrade. The drilling complex had a mechanical device which was used for drilling bores in the barrels of the cannons. An octagonal room, 31 ft. high, had four wooden bars revolved by four pairs of oxen. The gear system lying below this room consisted of 2 vertical and one horizontal wheel. The oxen rotated the crossbars which made the giant horizontal wheel to rotate.
Since secrecy is one of the main aspects of warfare, so cannon-making was a strictly secret affair. The Maharaja watched the proceeding from the balcony of a double-storied building. Rituals were performed in Ganesh Temple before the commencement of the job.
The Collection Gallery
The artifacts in this gallery are mostly in line with the defense nature of Jaigarh Fort. The Treasury Lock is one such item. This lock is made of iron, and five keys are needed to open it. Huge oil containers are also unique in this gallery. Made of camel leather, the containers are not only sturdy but superbly crafted. Oil was not only used for lighting but also for defense purposes. During an enemy attack, hot oil was poured over them through the embrasures. Copper War Drums with the top covered by animal leather are also on display because they are necessary in the defense structure. Since there were many check posts in the fortification of Jaigarh Fort, the war drums provided signals of the enemy's movement.
Foundry Gallery
Foundry Gallery is located in Surya Mandir and it displays the tools of furnace and lathe machine.
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| A miniature Cannon in a Courtyard |
Treasures
Jaigarh is also famous for its closet - lock -and -key of secret treasures. It is said, that Duleh Rai had stormed the Bar-Gujar fort of Deoti and amassed its treasure, accumulated through ages. Kakil Deo had hidden the treasure in Jaigarh. Another version says that Raja Man Singh I, the great general of Emperor Akbar’s army, had gained enormous wealth from his Kabul expedition (1581-1587) and 22 other parganas. It was impossible to stash the fortune without a fort, so it was stored in Jaigarh. The treasury was guarded by the loyal men of the qilledars. The keys of the famous five-key lock was placed in the hands of two most trusted qilledars of the Maharaja.
There is a further story that the buried treasure of the Kachhawa dynasty was fiercely guarded by the Meena tribesmen in Jaigarh and each successive Raja was taken to the treasure blindfolded and allowed to choose just one piece from it .Therefore , the actual location of the treasure is still unknown .
In 1976, a 250 year-old document of Sawai Jai Singh II’s era was discovered, which had a reference to the hidden treasures of Jaigarh. The cost of the jewels mentioned in the document was estimated to be about rupees 30 cores in 1726 and the cost of the total wealth was estimated to be rupees 110 crores.
There are 5 major tanks inside the fort .The dimension of the largest tank is 158 by 138 by 40 ft. and has a storage capacity of 60 hundred thousand gallons of water. The second tank is adjacent to the bigger tank but is full of mystery. It measures 69 by 52 by 52 ft. There are nine holes in the roof of this tank and there is a room under each hole. It is conjectured that the rooms were used as treasury houses till the reign of Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II. It is also argued that the wealth stored here was used by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II for building the new city of Jaipur in 1727-28.
The Indian government launched a massive treasure hunt at Jaigarh Fort in 1976 during the Emergency, declared by Prime Minister, Indira Gandhi. 500 workmen dug for 5 months. Metal detectors were used. The important places where the digging took place were: all the major tanks, Lakshmi Vilas Palace, Lalit Mandir, Aram Mandir, the Puppet show theater and the kitchens. But nothing was found. There was also a question raised in the Parliament of India on this issue whether a "search for treasure was carried out from 10th June 1976 till November 1976 by the Income Tax Authorities at Jaigarh Fort on the Delhi Jaipur Road was closed to ordinary traffic for one or two days so as to make way for military trucks carrying treasures to the residence of the then Prime Minister Smt. Indira Gandhi?" (Wikipedia)
Aesthetics
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| Aram Mandir and Char Bagh courtesy: Vssun commons.wikimedia.org |
Jaigarh Fort is built mostly with red sandstone and red -spotted white stone. It is a fantastic display of Rajput architecture. Subhat Niwas, Khilbati Niwas, Lakshmi Vilas, Surya Mandir, Vilas Mandir, Aram Mandir and its beautiful, square garden, Char Bagh, the Palace Hall with its decorated canopies, carved pillars done in araish (mirror-like) plaster are a feast to the eye. The successive courtyards, suites, verandas, enclosed open spaces, cupolas with pointed or circular crests, crenelated fortification and the panoramic view from the seven-storied Diya Burj (turret of lamps) create everlasting magic. Even the barrel of Jaivan Cannon is beautifully carved with floral designs; an elephant rests on the tip of the barrel, a pair of peacocks is carved at the center, and a pair of ducks decorate the rear of the barrel.
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| Jaigarh Fort's Landscape during Monsoons. |
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| Jaipur City from the ramparts of Jaigarh Fort |
As we look at the grand edifice, mounted as high as a bird can soar, we think of the dark tunnel where perhaps many hapless soldiers had toiled desperately to find open air; the treasure which might still be hushed somewhere within the hollow mines of the fort. But Jaigarh Fort, detached from these speculations, stands with peaceful majesty like a natural sculpture, sculpted by time on the memories of mankind.
Tickets:- Indian adults: Rupees 150; Foreign Tourists: Rupees 200.There are concessions for students and children. Cameras and video cameras are chargeable.
Timing:9 a.m-5 p.m.
Photographs: Bulbul Sur
Tags: Military architecture, Hidden Tunnels, Hidden Treasure Trove, Search for Treasure, Cannon, Foundry, War Drums, Water Tanks, Jaigarh's treasure, Jaivan, Karak Bijli Cannon,Water Conservation.
