bulbul's mind and matter: Kumbh

God is in Cleanliness and Security: Kumbh 2019

God is in Cleanliness and Security

Kumbh 2019

History

The mythological story of the origin of Kumbh is renowned. During Samudra Manthan or churning of the ocean by the Devas (Gods) and asuras (demons), a number of things such as ratnas (gems), halahal (poison) supernatural animals etc. were released from the ocean of milk. Goddess Lakshmi (symbolic of wealth and fortune) and Dhanvantari, the heavenly physician also emerged from the ocean. Lakshmi accepted Lord Vishnu as Her eternal consort and Dhanvantari came up with the kumbh (pot) containing amrita or nectar of immortality. A war broke out between Gods and demons to capture this kumbh (pot) of amrita. So Lord Vishnu disguised himself as a beautiful maiden, Mohini, distracted the asuras, stole this Kumbh and passed it on to his steed Garuda. While Garuda (Devtas according to some sources) was escaping with it, a few drops of nectar dropped at four places which are the sites of the modern day Kumbh Mela. Kumbh is held every 12 years and Ardh Kumbh is held every six years at these four places by rotation. The festival sites are located on the banks of a river:

Haridwar-Ganga; Prayagraj-confluence of Ganga, Yamuna and the invisible, mystical Saraswati; Nashik- Godavari; Ujjain- Shipra.

Significance

Kumbh means an earthen pot.The body is created from earth and merges into the earth.Therefore Kumbh signifies the human body and Kumbh Mela is the best place to empty our vices in our nashwar (mortal) body. It is said many Deities are active in the earth’s orbit during Kumbh Mela. When we perform spiritual practices we get their blessings.Bathing in one of these rivers during Kumbh Mela is said to cleanse a person of all his sins. Man, thus cleansed of his sins, attains nirvana or moksha. Scientifically, the planetary positions during this time affect the water and air in a positive way which makes the place divine.

Pilgrimage

It is well known that Kumbh (or Kumbha) Mela is recorded as the largest, peaceful, religious gathering on earth but this time Prayagraj Kumbh Mela held in Triveni Sangam, Allahabad, will go down in history as the cleanest place in spite of the footfall of 22 crores of people;the most safest place in spite of the motley, teeming mass from India and many parts of the world, resulting in 55 days of accident-free zone; and outstanding arrangements for pilgrims: from constructing tents with five-star amenities to installing 1.22 lakhs of eco-friendly toilets.
Kumbh Mela started from 15^th January 2019 and ended on 4^th March 2019. Since it takes place twice every twelve years, it is traditionally called ‘Ardh Kumbh’.But the present Uttar Pradesh government recently renamed it ‘Kumbh’.There were special, auspicious dates for Shahi Snan (Royal Bath) and we had chosen the last date, i.e. 4^th March, Maha Shivratri day for our holy dip which incidentally was also the last day for Kumbh Mela.

We got down at Allahabad station and as we came outside it seemed all roads led to the bathing ghats,such was the mass of pilgrims. We got a taste of cleanliness from the station premises itself. The sky was overcast, some stray rain droplets trickled down and a few random papers brushed against the pavement; but only for a short while. A cleaning man came in a battery-operated vehicle. He pressed a button and a short, broom-like gadget shot out from an aperture and in a jiffy the dirt and papers vanished.

We hired an auto to go to our destination, that is the army cantonment, located inside the iconic Allahabad fort. The auto dropped us beneath a bridge and from then onwards till the fort, all vehicles were prohibited. We walked under the bridge and came to the main road. The roads were chock-a-block with pilgrims,locals and an occasional police post. We waded with our luggage, manoeuvring through the immense, orderly crowd, passed two tent cities on our left and right, encountered pilgrims who had already taken the holy dip, and finally reached the cantonment at noon, after walking for about two kilometres.

Once we entered the army cantonment, all my tiredness vanished because it was a large island of calm and security. We were put up in tents, which had all the facilities of a hotel, with clean beds, chairs, tables, drinking water and even a mosquito repellent.

We had retired early at about 9:45 p.m. because the next morning which was Maha Shivratri,our day will start at 4 a.m. The climate was quite cold. All along the afternoon, evening, till late night we could hear loudspeaker announcements from the Sangam Ghat and I fell asleep immersed in the sound. Suddenly my sleep was disturbed by the trembling of the tent flap. .Soon I was wide awake when the sky roared like a wounded lion and then started the rain with its drops falling on the roof of our tent forcefully, sounding like thousands of plummeting stones ready to burst through the canvas. It was past midnight. The rain fell in torrents, increasing its intensity and we feared that our tent might be flooded. We kept our luggage on the chair in case water seeped in. There was nothing more we could do except resigning ourselves to a higher power.

The next morning we set out at four with our guide, Pradeep. It was very, very dark (in spite of the street lights) and very cold but we were filled with an unknown bliss, as if we were in close proximity with divinity. The road was wet but not waterlogged. People were already on their way to the Ghat. We crossed the last arched gate which glissaded down to a concrete pathway bordered by battlements designed in Mughal architecture. This was called the Ganga Dwar and the illuminated holy Ganga came into view. From the ramparts of the fort we only saw human heads walking towards the Ganga. What a divine feeling! This is the same Triveni Sangam where the holiest of holy have been taking bath since ancient times. The Triveni Sangam is considered to be the center of the earth in a few scriptures.

As we walked towards the Sangam , the first striking feature we saw was the rows of temporary toilets on the side of the wide road. We were also surprised to see people sleeping beside the road, under the trees, bodies fully covered in blankets or shawls .At first glance they might be mistaken for beggars or street dwellers. But they were pilgrims like us who have arrived from another town or city and instead of checking into a hotel have come straight to the Sangam Ghat .They will use the roadside toilets, take the holy dip ,use the changing rooms on the bank, have their breakfast at the roadside stalls and then go to the railway station or bus station for their journey back home.

The morning was dark as an eight o’clock evening but the street lights and the illumination at the Ghat was better than a shopping mall in an upmarket metro.

As we reached the Ghat we could see a surge of people at 4:30 a.m. On the higher level of the bank there were rows of changing rooms for ladies. We selected a suitable place and proceeded to the water. The steps leading to the Ganga were sandbagged to prevent them from being slippery. As soon as the steps were over, my feet touched a fathomless abyss and I thought I would be sucked into a hole. But a good stranger assured me to be fearless because the Ganga bed started from that point. Soon enough, as my feet felt the soft mud, I stood firmly on the bed and took the dip. The water was icy cold at first but soon the chilliness vanished when spiritual serenity overwhelmed me as I took the sacred dip in the Triveni Sangam, consorts of Trimurti or Holy Trinity: – Brahma’s consort, the unseen, transcendental, Saraswati River (believed to be flowing underground) ; Vishnu’s (Krishna) consort, Yamuna River; and Shiva’s consort, Ganga River . Just about four hands away from where I was bathing the waters had been barricaded with bright orange material so that enthusiastic swimmers do not go far into the water, mislead others and thence cause mishap. On the other side of the protective barricade, lots of boats had assembled, filled with people staying on the other bank, who had come to take bath in the holy confluence.

As soon as I had finished my dip, the good man came with milk (with a price) to be offered to Lord Shiva on Maha Shivratri day. I marveled at divine intervention, ‘as the demand so the supply’.

After changing into dry clothes I bought a puja thali comprising of flowers, diya and the usual things from a vendor sitting on the bank. The price was most reasonable—10 rupees only, as is customary in normal places and in normal circumstances. After the puja was over, as if by magic a tea seller came and we had Ambrosian tea, at again the normal price. Then we strolled on the bank watching the pilgrims because the inflow was increasing as the hours progressed. But all were peaceful, whose main focus was to take the holy dip. If this is not divinity what is? It is rightly said that God resides in Man because all looked similar , like Gods in their focused holiness. The extraordinary feature was silence. All the pilgrims were doing their work silently: bathing, praying, offering water to the Gods, doing arti, floating diyas on the Ganga. The vendors were silent too, no shouting of wares .The disciplined beggars gave silent, expectant looks .Only the wandering, saffron-clad mendicants begged in a sing-song, prayerful way which sounded very soothing in the dark morning with the fresh, scented air seeping in, heralding the approaching dawn. There were no pandas, touts or pestering beggars. The sandy, clean bank was moist but not soggy or squelchy. On the other side of the Ganga, far away, was a line of bright LED lights as if there was a bustling, modern city. But it was actually the tent city erected by the government and private enterprise especially for Kumbh.

Sangam Ghat at 4 a.m.

Barricade, Boats at Triveni Sangam and the Illuminated Bank on the Other Side at 4 a.m.

It had rained heavily the night before. The roads were wet but there were no potholes anywhere. The return journey was through another route which led us to the exit. The entry and exit routes to the Sangam Ghat were different so that in spite of the immense crowd there was no jostling or stampede-like situation. Some beggars and sadhus were sitting on the roadside but all in a line. The LED lights fell in every corner and universally there was cleanliness. Not a single plastic bottle, bag or tea cup was strewn randomly. Dustbins were positioned at regular intervals. It was 5:30 a.m. but still very dark. The exterior of the fort was dazzling in the bright LED lights. The crowd going towards the Ghat had increased manifold. Still there was a perception of expanse hence there was no crowding or frottage. When we came back to our tent ,fulfilled and serene it was just 6 a.m.

It was a very auspicious day not only because of Maha Shivratri but also because it fell on a Monday (day dedicated to Lord Shiva)after a long time. About one crore people took bath on that day .

Mankameshwar Temple

In the evening we went to a Shiva temple, called Mankameshwar Mandir. It is situated on the banks of Yamuna. It is said that worshippers attain their wish fulfillment here. According to legend, during Lord Ram and Sita's Vanvas (exile),Devi Sita, after bathing in the Yamuna wished to pray to Lord Shiva. Since there was no Shiva temple nearby, Lord Ram built a temple for her, thus fulfilling her wishes. Hence the name Mankameshwar. The temple is small. The main idol in the temple is a black stone, ‘Shiv Lingam’. It is believed to be three and a half feet Shivling but the greater part is deep underground. It is said to have been installed by Lord Ram himself on his way to Chitrakoot.

The temple was situated at a lower level. We had to climb down a few steps from the main road to reach it. Since it was Maha Shivaratri the crowd was immense. There were adequate police and special Action Force managing the crowd . The queue was always in motion so that my turn came only after five minutes. There was a lady police officer near the idol, so that the worshippers do not take unnecessary time.

Saraswati Ghat

Next we walked down the same road in the opposite direction, passing a park by the Yamuna river called Minto Park, which is maintained by the army. A few feet farther was Saraswati Ghat on the banks of the Yamuna river. From the topmost level we could see the peaceful water of the Yamuna gleaming in the setting sun. To reach the Ghat or bank we had to climb down quite a number of very, wide steps. From the Ghat we could get a very good view of a portion of Allahabad Fort located at the corner near Triveni Sangam, its walls being kissed by the greenish water of the Yamuna river. There were a few boatmen at the pier, with their anchored boats. On normal days, boatmen ferry passengers to the Sangam Ghat. But on that auspicious day, the last day of Kumbh, things were different. On being asked, whether they would take us to Triveni, one replied, “Even if you give us 10,000 rupees we’ll not ferry you to Sangam now. Today we have been ferrying pilgrims since 4 a.m. and we are very tired.”

Saraswati Ghat

There was a metal platform like a quay, which projected slightly into the water providing a good photo op. On the western side was the newly constructed, cable-stayed Yamuna Bridge also called Shyama Prasad Mukherjee Bridge. It runs north-south across the Yamuna river connecting Prayagraj city to its satellite neighborhood, Naini. The cables glimmered in the light of the setting sun. On the other bank of Saraswati Ghat was the tent city.

Sunset on the Yamuna River

Sangam Ghat

The next morning at about 9:30 we went to Sangam Ghat again, apprehending great filth and dirt now that the Kumbh was over but we were in for a huge surprise. The pilgrims were going back home with their luggage on their heads; shopkeepers were disposing off their wares at a throwaway price: jackets and half-sleeved coats at 250 rupees per piece. Along the roads, vendors sold bags, toys, puja utensils, medicinal herbs, Rudraksh Mala but most were busy in packing up. Steel road plates were fixed on pathways in some places for further protection. We walked to the Sangam Ghat through a different route. The sun was quite hot. People were still taking holy dips. Crowd was everywhere. Now the boatmen begged us to take a ride, 150 rupees per head. In the morning sun we saw the actual site of the confluence--the greenish water of the Yamuna merging with the clear Ganga water. But there was no scope for taking a perfect photograph because the crowd was still mind-boggling.

Sandbagged Path Leading to the Ganga

Straw-Layered Bank and Cleaning Process in Progress after Completion of Kumbh Mela

Rows of Ladies' Changing Rooms

Empty Boats after Completion of Kumbh

Bathing still Going on after Conclusion of Kumbh

Vendors on the Bank

The moist sand on the bank was now layered with straw so there was no waterlogging, puddles, muddiness; hence no slipping and falling. Pandits sitting on charpais were offering to decorate the foreheads of pilgrims with sandal wood paste and tilaks. Pickpockets, touts, pandas which we thought were scarce in yesterday’s predawn would surface in the busyness of midmorning. But they were still invisible. The beggars were still sitting in a line, wandering sadhus still sang with begging bowls. The people were still peaceful. The only sound was the announcements on loudspeakers of Lost and Found. There was a giant TV screen closely monitoring the proceedings. Cleanliness was still a predominant feature. Everything was in order. The only disorder were flowers (used for puja) strewn in the Ganga but it was a sight to behold. The packing up had begun with the sanitation staff dismantling the temporary changing rooms. Large, black plastic bags filled with garbage were ready to be disposed of.

Allahabad Fort

In the morning we realized the beauty of the fort built by Mughal Emperor, Akbar in 1583.It was the largest fort built by him. He named it Illahabas (blessed by God)which later became Allahabad. It is located on the banks of Yamuna near its confluence with the holy river Ganga. The location of the fort was chosen to guard the waterways. The fort has three gates—Yamuna Dwar in the south, Ganga Dwar in the east and the main gate on the landside.

Allahabad Fort's view from Saraswati Ghat extending in the Yamuna River
Photo: S. K. Sur

Allahabad Fort's view from Sangam Ghat Extending in the Ganga at the Far End

A Dazzling Exterior of Allahabad Fort at 4 a.m. on 4th March

According to legend, every time Akbar tried to construct the fort its foundation would sink in the sand. He was told that only a human sacrifice would prevent this disaster. A local Prayagwal Brahmin offered himself to be sacrificed and in return Akbar granted his descendants, the Prayagwals, exclusive rights of serving the pilgrims at the Sangam. In 1801, the British established a grand depot for military stores in Allahabad Fort and since then it is a military fort with the Ordnance Depot of the Indian Army situated here.

There are some sights within the fort premises which are of spiritual, mythological and historical importance.

1) Ancient Tree and Temple

Within the fort is a sacred fig tree called, Akshayvat ( the indestructible banyan tree).Akshayvat’s existence is linked to Vedic scriptures. It is mentioned in Matsya Purana. According to legend, Lord Narayana in order to show his divine power to sage Markandeya flooded the entire world for a moment during which only Akshayvat survived and could be seen above the water level. This tree is also mentioned in Ramayana. Lord Ram, Sita and Lakshman visited this place before and after their Vanvas. It is said that they had rested beneath this tree.

Patalpuri Mandir

This underground temple is believed to have been visited by Lord Ram. The Chinese traveler Hiuen Tsang also saw this temple in the 7th century. Akshayvat is within the temple.

2) Saraswati Koop

Inside the fort there is a well (koop), known as Saraswati Koop. It is believed that the mythological, Saraswati river flows beneath this deep well. Saraswati is an ancient sacred river, on whose banks Vedic seers composed the initial parts of Rigveda and several Upanishads.

3 )Ashoka Pillar

Ashoka the Great of Maurya Dynasty (c. 268-232 BCE) is remembered for many extraordinary things and one of them is Ashoka Pillar. During his reign which covered the entire Indian subcontinent (except some parts of Tamilnadu, Karnataka and Kerala) the pillars of Ashoka were dispersed throughout his kingdom. He called them Dhamma Thamba (pillars of Dharma). Allahabad Fort also has the famous Ashoka pillar or Ashoka Stambha. It is located in front of the Ordnance Depot Quarter Guard. It is one of the few existing pillars that contain his edicts. The Ashoka Pillar is a single vertical structure made of polished sandstone and is 35 feet high with a width of 35 inches. It dates back to 3^rd century BCE. This Pillar was first erected at Kaushambi, an important city in ancient India.

Ashokan Inscription

The Ashokan inscription on the Allahabad Pillar is one of the most important records of rediscovering the Mauryan Emperor Ashoka and the full extent of his empire. The inscription is engraved in Brahmi script, in continuous lines around the column.

The Pillar includes Schism Edict which is a command by Emperor Ashoka to his senior officials (Mahamatras of Kaushambi) to avoid conflict and to stay united. The Pillar also has Queen’s Edict which refers to the charitable deeds of Emperor Ashoka’s second queen, Karuvaki.

Samudragupta’s Inscription

A later inscription (on the Allahabad Pillar) is attributed to the Gupta Emperor, Samudragupta of 4^th century CE. It is written immediately below the edicts of Ashoka. It is written in excellent Sanskrit, praising Samudragupta, listing his political and military achievement, thus providing important information about the geopolitical landscape of the era.

Jahangir’s Inscription

The Mughal Emperor Jahangir probably moved the Allahabad Pillar from Kaushambi to Allahabad. Jahangir’s inscription was inscribed in the 17^th century and it records the names of his ancestors. It is overwritten on the much older Ashokan inscription. Hence, much of the 3^rd and 4^th edicts of Emperor Ashoka have been destroyed by Jahangir’s inscriptions.

Allahabad Fort is occupied by the Indian Army and special permission is required to enter it. Photography is strictly prohibited inside its premises.

Conclusion

The media had highlighted about elaborate security arrangements in Kumbh, 2019, with thousands of policemen, home guards, central force, anti-terrorists commandos, anti-sabotage commandos with snipers , bomb disposal units, sniffer dog squads etc. on duty. It is not as if there was a huge posse of weapon-wielding security men everywhere. But they were protecting the pilgrims by remaining in the shadows, away from razzmatazz because we did not see any of those on both the days. I only saw a couple of policemen at the exit gate at 4:30 a.m. on Maha Shivratri day. No accident or any untoward incident was reported except for a brief fire in one pocket on the first day which was quickly brought under control with no casualties.

But the biggest takeaway is spick and span Kumbh Mela. To maintain this sort of cleanliness, the administration had pressed into service 15,000 sanitation workers, 40 compactors, 120 tippers and 20,000 dustbins. Such posts had been created by Uttar Pradesh’ Chief Minister, Yogi Adityanath’s administration: Ganga Praharis or Swachhagrahis and Swachhta Doots. The 2000 Swacchagrahis /Gangapraharis were foot soldiers who kept the Mela premises clean and the main job of Swachhta Doots (Messengers of Cleanliness) was to prevent littering in the Mela area. Installation of LED lights helped them to spot garbage from a distance. Those workers went beyond the call of duty and their 8-hour shift and worked for 10-12 hours every day to ensure that “Bhavya Kumbh, Divya Kumbh (Grand Kumbh, Divine Kumbh) is fructified on ground zero to its fullest extent. They were working ceaselessly like the security personnel, keeping themselves in shadowland away from the razzle -dazzle of TV cameras. No wonder Prime Minister Modi had called the safai Karmacharis (sanitation staff) as ‘Karmayogis’ and showed his gratitude by washing the feet of some of them.

All in all, the slogan of Kumbh Mela 2019 , “Swach Kumbh, Surakshit Kumbh’ was not an empty bombast like many political slogans, but showed that great vision, hard work and dedication can make every lofty ideal 100 % successful.