bulbul's mind and matter: Panna Meena ka Kund,Jaigarh Fort, Nahargarh Fort

Panna Meena ka kund* is an ancient baori*, in Amber, near Jaipur, in Rajasthan, India. It is situated about 13 km away from Jaipur Railway station and via Amer road it will take about 45 minutes to reach there. Most of the guides show the magnificent, big brother Amber Fort to the tourists, so Panna Meena ka Kund, a hidden historical and architectural wonder is unknown to most tourists. It is concealed in a by lane near Amber Fort. It is just 5 minutes away (750 m) from Amber Fort via Sagar Road. After reaching Amber Fort, you drive a little bit straight passing through shops on both sides and then you turn left to a narrow lane. The narrow road is nothing spectacular; with shops, houses, some camels, cows, ancient trees and temples...and just a little farther on, is Panna Meena ka Kund in all its glory.

History

Not much is known about the date of its origin. The most popular accepted version is, it is more than 400 years old and was built in the 17^th century, during the reign of Jai Singh I (1611-1667). Another version is that it was built by a eunuch called Panna Miyan who worked in the durbar of Jai Singh I. He helped Jai Singh to build this stepwell as a rainwater catchment. Hence, the Kund was named after him.

But local tales suggest that it might be built in the tenth century when Amber was ruled by the Meena tribe.

Before the Rajputs ruled Amber, the Meena Tribe were Amber’s undisputed rulers. A Meena king could not be defeated by the Rajputs, so they resorted to treachery. They took the help of an insider in the Meena dynasty and came to know that during Diwali it was customary for the Meena king to take bath in the kund, leaving his weapons aside. The Rajputs seized one such occasion on Diwali and killed him, and laid the foundation of Kachhwaha dynasty in Amber.

This story is somewhat authenticated by James Tod (famous oriental scholar) in his book, “Annals and Antiquities of Rajas'than.” He described vividly how Sora Singh’s son Dhola Rai of the Kachhwaha dynasty captured Amber. He writes about a similar incident in Khogong, ‘encircled by hills’, ‘within five miles of the modern Jeipoor’ which was ruled by the Meena tribe. Khogong is modern day Amber.

'On the death of Sora Singh, prince of Nurwar, his brother usurped the government, depriving the infant, Dhola Rae of his inheritance.' Dhola Rai’s mother placed her infant son in a basket, carried it on her head and travelled to the town of Khogong, which was ‘inhabited by Meenas’.

In Khogong, she got a job in the royal household by ‘direction of the Meena Rani’. One day, she (Dhola Rai’s mother) was ‘ordered to prepare dinner’ which Ralunsi, the Meena Raja ate. He found it so good from the usual food which he ate every day, that he sent for the cook. The widowed and exiled queen related her story. When the Meena chief discovered ‘the rank of the illustrious fugitive,’ he adopted the ex-rani as his sister and her son Dhola Rai as his nephew.

When Dhola Rai attained the Rajput manhood (14 years) he was sent to Delhi ‘with the tribute of Khogong, to attend’ instead of the Meena king. There he stayed for 5 years and hatched a plan to usurp the throne of his benefactor, the Meena King. A Meena d’hadi (bard/minstrel) gave Dhola Rai insider information that during the festival of Diwali, the Meena King with his associates perform religious purification en masse in a tank as was the custom. Dhola Rai, the young ‘cuchwaha’ seized the opportunity and with a few of his Rajput ‘brethren from Delhi’ killed all the Meenas in the stepwell. The kund was filled with dead bodies. Dhola Rai killed the bard too with his own hands, “observing, ‘He who had proved unfaithful to one master, could not be trusted by another.’” He then took possession of Khogong and founded the Kacchhwaha state of Amber 997 years ago, in 1028 AD.

Architecture

Panna Meena ka Kund is a sweet water reservoir, whose water was used for irrigation, drinking and for religious purposes. The stepwell goes down to a depth of 200 metres. There are eight floors and eight level of steps. There are 1300 steps altogether and all descend to the water level. The steps are on three sides, so that there would be ample places for seating purposes.

Intricate ,Criss-cross design of the Steps
A Chattri, the Promenade and a Bench

The flight of cream-coloured steps is geometrically perfect and the symmetry of the steps is a feast to the eyes. The steps descend and ascend in an intricate, criss-cross way. Another marvel is that, the steps that are used to climb down will not be the same ones to climb up. You have to climb up through a different set of steps. There are no rails on each side to hold while climbing up and down the steps. Descending the steps is now banned for the past couple of years after a drowning incident happened. The corners of the promenade is decorated with chattris, which are ornamental, dome-shaped pavilions. There are benches on this level for resting.

Amber Fort on the Aravalli Range,the Temple and the Pujari

The ancient Lakshmi Narayan Bihari Mandir is built above the stepwell. It was built during the reign of Jai Singh I. It houses the idols of Lakshmi Narayan. We could see a pujari, using the water in the kund for religious purpose. The colour of the water is green and there were large, black movements of fish in the water.

The Lakshmi Narayan Bihari Temple above Panna Meena ka Kund

It was not only a Jal Bhandar (water reservoir) in olden days from where women collected water. It was also a place for community gathering especially for women who would share each other’s ideas and gossips. The place is isolated and soothing. During summers, the temperature is 9 degrees lower in the kund area.

There is no entry fee. Service of guides is available. There are some shops outside selling mementos and touristy things.The timing is 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. (may vary) and the best time to visit it is during the monsoons (June end to September) when the hills surrounding it, will be emerald green; or from October to March when the climate is pleasant.

*Kund: A water reservoir; a small, natural /artificial lake or an excavation filled with water.

*Bauri: A well or a tank with steps, a stepwell.

Reference:Annals and Antiquities of Rajas'than by James Tod. Book II.

Photographs: Bulbul Sur.

Now come with me to the nearby Jaigarh Fort,just 19 ,minutes away. While Panna Meena ka Kund will take about 30 minutes of your time, Jaigarh Fort will take more than an hour because of its aesthetics, history, architecture, beauty of the landscape and what have you.

Jaigarh Fort ,Jaipur

A Superb Specimen of Military Architecture,Water Conservation and a Hush-Hush Treasure Trove

Jaigarh Fort
courtesy: Abhinavmnnit Wikimedia commons

At Subhat Niwas, the king was briefing his soldiers about strategies to be adopted to counter a possible aggression. Suddenly, he was informed that the enemy, in a surprise attack, had overpowered the guards at the gate and had entered the fort. The undaunted king ordered his commander to meet the exigency, while he retreated through a secret tunnel to a safer venue, Khilbati Niwas, to open a second line of defense. The intruders pursued the king but the escape tunnel was too narrow. Moreover, after a certain distance, it became pitch dark. The guard, invisible in the darkness, could see the foes enter the tunnel in single file. He intercepted them easily, while the king had ample time to escape.

Meanwhile in the courtyards , the soldiers had encircled the opponents who had no place to retreat, because all the doors leading to other apartments were closed .Outside, the attackers could not scale the fort because thorny bushes beyond the ramparts formed obstacles .

Various Corners of the Bulwark of Impregnable Jaigarh Fort
courtesy: Wikimedia commons

The walls were extended in angles , to lessen the chances of a direct hit . The defending soldiers had positioned themselves at different cusps on the battlements and shot down the intruders or rolled down stones from above. Through the embrasures (gun holes) in the battlements the archers or cannoneers would shoot through at the enemy. The enemy was at a disadvantage, because there were hardly any deep ravines or projecting cliffs near the fort to shelter them from the onslaught.

Gun Holes (Embrasures)

Embrasures in the Battlements, which are wider in the Inside than Outside

This is a battle scene in Jaigarh fort, which is a remarkable example of military architecture. It is 15 km. from Jaipur city and one and a half km. from Amber Palace. It is 602 m. above mean sea level. Its length extends 3 km. from north to south and its width is 1 km. from east to west. The whole area is secured with a fortified wall, so long, that it covers almost the entire Aravalli hilly area. This wall was further guarded with 27 chowkies/check posts.

Unending Ramparts with Diya Burj (Turret of Lamps) in the Distance

History of Jaigarh Fort

The medieval rulers believed in the Divine right of Kingship and considered that their primary duty was to protect their subjects and the honor of their women. For this they needed a stronghold which could give security not only to royalty but also to the citizens. Hence, they built forts small or big, garh or garhi. Forts to medieval kings were not only crucial for war and defense purposes but also symbolized power and wealth .So, the bigger the king, the grander the fort.

The history of Jaigarh Fort dates back to Kakil Deo, son of Duleh Rai, the first Kachhawa/Kachhawaha ruler to enter Dhundhar in the 10^th century. Kakil continued with his father’s policy of aggrandizement and annexed Amber from Rao Bhatto, a Meena of the Susaot family. Kakil understood clearly the strategic importance of Amber, located on a hilly terrain, commanding a wide view of the northern and southern regions. So he made it a base for the future expansion of his territory and removed his capital from Khoh to Amber.

The main purpose of Jaigarh Fort is exemplified by its guardian deity, Kal Bhairav. The idol is in black stone and has eight hands, each hand holding a weapon. The protector is a fierce form of Lord Shiva, and in Jaigarh Fort, a small temple is dedicated to it. It was built by Kakil Deo in 1036 A.D.

Kal Bhairav Temple built by Kakil Deo in 1036 A.D.

There is also a Ram Sita Mandir in the fort complex which is 800 years old.

Kakil Deo founded Jaigarh Fort in 1036 AD, on the spine of the northern range of the Aravalli mountain range, called cheel ka teela (Hill of Eagles). It was further developed, modernized and remodeled by Raja Man Singh I (1589-1614) and Mirja Raja Jai Singh (1621-1667).

The fort has three entrance gates - Dungar Darwaza in the south; Awani Darwaza (the oldest) in the east; and the third is Sagari Gate, through the west—towards Sagar, the well-known tank of Amber. Formerly known as Amber Fort, it was christened Jaigarh by Sawai Jai Singh II (1699 - 1743).

Military Architecture

A Portion of the Crenelated Fortification
courtesy: Ameya_Clicks Wikimedia commons

Jaigarh Fort is 'Giri/Parvat Durg or a hill fort which is considered to be the best among all kinds of forts. During medieval times, it was one of the most important forts of Rajasthan because of its strategic location, as it lay in the trade route from Delhi to Gujarat and Malwa.

Watch Tower
courtesy: Vssun commons.wikimedia.org

Armory Gallery

That Jaigarh Fort's main purpose was to serve as a defense fortress is further reflected in the museum which stretches across the length and breadth of Jaigarh Fort. In the armory gallery, plans and war maps, medieval rockets, guns such as matchlock, flintlock and zamburak (camel gun) are displayed. Cannon Nagin, Cannon Shiv van, Cannon Dhoomvan etc. are some among the many that hold pride of place in the museum. The earliest cannon is the Karak Bijli Cannon made during Raja Bhagwan Das and it was used by the army of Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II in the battles fought in Bihar, Bengal, Orissa, Deccan etc. It is said that cannon making in Jaigarh foundry continued till late 19th century.

The Armory gallery contains Artillery Tools and rockets. The war rockets were introduced in the 18th century. The rockets in Jaigarh were cast iron cylinders filled with gunpowder, fixed with a fuse. They were used near the cavalry to throw front line troopers into disarray.

Historic 18th century cannon, 'Nagin' manufactured during Maharaja Ishwari Singh's Reign

Holder with wooden arrows and large cannon balls specifically designed for Jaivan .Each iron ball weighs approximately 50 kilograms.

The wrapped cylindrical objects on the top shelf are Rockets.

The bottom shelf contains 'Time Bomb' Grenades

The 18th century Shiv Van Cannon, perhaps manufactured in the fort foundry during Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II .

Time Bombs and Gun powder testing machine

Antique weaponry, such as cannons at the bottom and various smaller arms and tools mounted on the wall

Central Shield, probably made from Rhinoceros Skin,Moon Arrows designed with a crescent shape

The spiritual significance of the weapons is exemplified by the Vayu Mantra (wind mantra) plaque above the shield.

Long-barreled firearms called Matchlock Rifles, and Zamburak, a camel-mounted Cannon

Architectural Model of the historic Cannon Foundry Chainmail Armor

Rajput Water Conservation in Jaigarh Fort

The path of the rain water through the undulating channel

This conservation is not only pleasing to the eye but very functional. In Jaigarh Fort, water was necessary for the soldiers,residents, foundry, ceremonial gardens and animals. This massive amount of water in an arid region like Rajasthan needed to be collected and stored in a strict and ingenious way. And the system developed was a masterclass,through a complex network of drains and small canals constructed along the hills. There was no artificial pumping to distribute water throughout the fort. The water moved through the canals entirely by gravity and natural landscape contours of slopes and elevations. As the rain fell on the Aravalli range, it flowed through the first canal at the lowest level on the plains, constructed by Kail Deo,complete with pipes and a net.It still exists by the side of the road. As the water moved through the canals, mud, stones, debris were strained in the net. It entered the fort and then one part of the water was diverted to the open tank/pond, used for the upkeep of animals. When it was full,the gate was closed and then the water entered the covered tanks through another route .Sedimentation continued,so that when the water moved to the third tank ,it was very clean and potable. When the second tank filled up, the water flowed to the third tank. The third tank is massive and can store 6 million gallons of water. It is under the central courtyard and it is fitted with small, latticed windows to keep the water cool. Steps are built in the tanks, so that if the water level has reduced,you can climb down and take out water manually.

Path of the rain water when it plunges below and enters inside through the small gap

The first and second tanks with steps

The huge third tank under the central courtyard

Sagar Lake from the Ramparts of Jaigarh Fort

Sagar Lake is an artificial lake constructed in the 16th century by Sawai Jai Singh II. It served as an important water conservation reservoir for Jaigarh and other palaces and forts.

Entrance Gates,Palaces and Courtyards

Entrance Gate of Jaigarh Fort
courtesy: Jakub Halun Wikimedia commons

Main Entrance Gate, Dungar Darwaza,located near the primary ticket counter

If we enter the palace through Dungar Darwaza, we come to the Jaleb Chowk (which houses the offices and two museum galleries) and the first complex that we encounter is Subhat Niwas, the courtyard where the king addressed his soldiers before a war .It is 150 ft. from east to west in width and 168 ft. from north to south in length. The attached hall where plans and strategies were discussed during war time, measures 69 by 34 feet.

Subhat Niwas with arched doorways and flat roof

Khilbati Niwas or Hall of Private Audience, stands on a high platform and measures 32 by 13 ft. The king used it as a private space to meet ministers , army generals, Thakurs and Thikanedars (nobles) where secret matters of the state and strategies of war were discussed. The distinctive feature of Khilbati Niwas was that it was built of a special material which made the sounds echo.

The entrance archway and upper pavilion structure of Khilbati Niwas with decorative arches and windows are a blend of Rajput and Mughal architecture .

Diya Burj Courtyard

Lakshmi Vilas Palace

This regal palace is notable for its 12 marble pillars and arched pathways.

The white marble flooring and intricate stone decorative pillars.

A Rajput architecture with arched doorways in the huge Lakshmi Vilas Courtyard.

Surya Mandir

This is an eleventh-century building with seven rooms, each accompanied with a veranda. It houses the tools for gun foundry, carpentry and blacksmithing.

Ranawat Chowk

In its heydays, it was used as a durbar or royal court. Later, as new palaces were added to Jaigarh Fort, it became a place for making matchlock guns. At present, it is used as a store room for ancient military equipment such as cannon wheels and shafts of gun carriages.

Vijaygarhi

In the south-west part of Jaigarh Fort is Vijaygarhi. It is a small castle within the fort and since its first inception it is being used as the armory . This heavily-fortified castle is the only building in the whole fort which has gun bases in all its four corners. In one of its areas Sawai Jai Singh II kept his brother, Vijay Singh as a prisoner. Since then it is called Vijaygarhi.

Ancient wooden doors with arched corridors in one of the courtyards

Strategic Tunnels

A Tunnel in Jaigarh Fort
courtesy: Vssun Wikimedia commons

Description at the Entrance of a Tunnel
courtesy: Vssun Wikimedia commons

What makes Jaigarh Fort unique among all the forts in India and perhaps in the world, is its several covered and uncovered tunnels. The tunnels in Jaigarh Fort is a magnificent display of the military acumen of the rulers. Besides the tunnel for the king's escape from Subhat Niwas to Khilbati Niwas, there are other tunnels leading to all parts of the fort. From the roof of the Royal Palace Lakshmi Vilas, a 116 ft. tunnel passes to Lalit Mandir, the summer palace of the royal family. The royal kitchens are connected to Lalit Mandir by a 107 ft. tunnel which opens out to the Aram Mandir (16th century royal garden house) and the garden. The Aram Mandir is connected by a 263 ft. tunnel to the 17th century Vilas Mandir ( meeting place for royal ladies).The double-storied 17th century Puppet theater for royal audience is connected to the courtyard of Vilas Mandir by a 93 ft. long tunnel.

Jaivan,World's largest Cannon on Wheels

Jaivan
courtesy :Swapnil Karambelkar Wikimedia commons

Jaigarh has the world’s largest cannon on wheels called Jaivan. It was cast in 1720 during the reign of Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II (1699-1743) at the foundry in Jaigarh Fort. Its range is 22 miles (1 mile=1.6 km approximately). Jaivan cannon rests on a high, four-wheeled carriage. The height of the front wheels is 9 ft. and the height of the rear wheel is 4 and a half feet. The barrel of the cannon is 20 ft. 2 inches and it weighs 50 tons. For firing each shot, 100 kilograms of gunpowder and a cannon ball weighing 50 kg were used. The barrel of the cannon rests on a 24 ft. long shaft. The other cannon called Bajrangvana (1691) is an example of a garrison cannon and it was driven to the battlefield by 32 oxen.

A wide view of Jaivan

Muzzle of Jaivan Cannon

Swastika and other Hindu, religious symbols of auspiciousness can be seen at the mouth of Jaivan cannon.

Water Body below the Courtyard housing Jaivan

A water body was dug up because the cannon fired with a loud sound.As soon as the soldiers fired the shot they would jump into the lake, so that the sound of the cannon burst would be mitigated. In spite of such precautions, people lost their lives.

Gun Foundry

Courtyard of the Cannon Foundry within the Fort Complex
courtesy: anupamg, Wikimedia commons

This 16^th century gun foundry with its tools spreads over an area of 162 by 57 feet .It was built during the reign of Man Singh I. Maharaja Man Singh, the Commander-in-chief of Akbar's army attacked Kabul in 1580,won the battle and remained as Governor of Kabul for 6 years where he acquired the knowledge of making cannons. The gun foundry had a reverberatory, open hearth furnace; its oval-shaped bath/hearth was made of refractory material. The furnace could bear a temperature of 1200 degree centigrade. The drilling complex had a mechanical device which was used for drilling bores in the barrels of the cannons. An octagonal room, 31 ft. high, had four wooden bars revolved by four pairs of oxen. The gear system lying below this room consisted of 2 vertical and one horizontal wheel. The oxen rotated the crossbars which made the giant horizontal wheel to rotate.

Since secrecy is one of the main aspects of warfare, so cannon-making was a strictly secret affair. The Maharaja watched the proceeding from the balcony of a double-storied building. Rituals were performed in Ganesh Temple before the commencement of the job.

The Collection Gallery

The artifacts in this gallery are mostly in line with the defense nature of Jaigarh Fort. The Treasury Lock is one such item. This lock is made of iron, and five keys are needed to open it. Huge oil containers are also unique in this gallery. Made of camel leather, the containers are not only sturdy but superbly crafted. Oil was not only used for lighting but also for defense purposes. During an enemy attack, hot oil was poured over them through the embrasures. Copper War Drums with the top covered by animal leather are also on display because they are necessary in the defense structure. Since there were many check posts in the fortification of Jaigarh Fort, the war drums provided signals of the enemy's movement.

Foundry Gallery

Foundry Gallery is located in Surya Mandir and it displays the tools of furnace and lathe machine.

A miniature Cannon in a Courtyard

Treasures

Jaigarh is also famous for its closet - lock -and -key of secret treasures. It is said, that Duleh Rai had stormed the Bar-Gujar fort of Deoti and amassed its treasure, accumulated through ages. Kakil Deo had hidden the treasure in Jaigarh. Another version says that Raja Man Singh I, the great general of Emperor Akbar’s army, had gained enormous wealth from his Kabul expedition (1581-1587) and 22 other parganas. It was impossible to stash the fortune without a fort, so it was stored in Jaigarh. The treasury was guarded by the loyal men of the qilledars. The keys of the famous five-key lock was placed in the hands of two most trusted qilledars of the Maharaja.

There is a further story that the buried treasure of the Kachhawa dynasty was fiercely guarded by the Meena tribesmen in Jaigarh and each successive Raja was taken to the treasure blindfolded and allowed to choose just one piece from it .Therefore , the actual location of the treasure is still unknown .

In the Collection Gallery there are coin containers on display. Jaipur rulers undertook different campaigns on behalf of the Mughal Kings. Those rulers brought booty from such campaigns. So, Jaigarh Fort became the storehouse of wealth and booty. Coin containers of various sizes and shapes were produced for this purpose. The inner side of the containers is fitted with wood while the outer side is made of copper.

In 1976, a 250 year-old document of Sawai Jai Singh II’s era was discovered, which had a reference to the hidden treasures of Jaigarh. The cost of the jewels mentioned in the document was estimated to be about rupees 30 cores in 1726 and the cost of the total wealth was estimated to be rupees 110 crores.

There are 5 major tanks inside the fort .The dimension of the largest tank is 158 by 138 by 40 ft. and has a storage capacity of 60 hundred thousand gallons of water. The second tank is adjacent to the bigger tank but is full of mystery. It measures 69 by 52 by 52 ft. There are nine holes in the roof of this tank and there is a room under each hole. It is conjectured that the rooms were used as treasury houses till the reign of Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II. It is also argued that the wealth stored here was used by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II for building the new city of Jaipur in 1727-28.

The Indian government launched a massive treasure hunt at Jaigarh Fort in 1976 during the Emergency, declared by Prime Minister, Indira Gandhi. 500 workmen dug for 5 months. Metal detectors were used. The important places where the digging took place were: all the major tanks, Lakshmi Vilas Palace, Lalit Mandir, Aram Mandir, the Puppet show theater and the kitchens. But nothing was found. There was also a question raised in the Parliament of India on this issue whether a "search for treasure was carried out from 10th June 1976 till November 1976 by the Income Tax Authorities at Jaigarh Fort on the Delhi Jaipur Road was closed to ordinary traffic for one or two days so as to make way for military trucks carrying treasures to the residence of the then Prime Minister Smt. Indira Gandhi?" (Wikipedia)

Aesthetics

Aram Mandir and Char Bagh
courtesy: Vssun commons.wikimedia.org

Jaigarh Fort is built mostly with red sandstone and red -spotted white stone. It is a fantastic display of Rajput architecture. Subhat Niwas, Khilbati Niwas, Lakshmi Vilas, Surya Mandir, Vilas Mandir, Aram Mandir and its beautiful, square garden, Char Bagh, the Palace Hall with its decorated canopies, carved pillars done in araish (mirror-like) plaster are a feast to the eye. The successive courtyards, suites, verandas, enclosed open spaces, cupolas with pointed or circular crests, crenelated fortification and the panoramic view from the seven-storied Diya Burj (turret of lamps) create everlasting magic. Even the barrel of Jaivan Cannon is beautifully carved with floral designs; an elephant rests on the tip of the barrel, a pair of peacocks is carved at the center, and a pair of ducks decorate the rear of the barrel.

The Panchranga Flag on Diya Burj is a traditional five-coloured Flag of the Rajput Rulers of Jaipur.

Jaigarh Fort's Landscape during Monsoons.

Jaipur City from the ramparts of Jaigarh Fort

As we look at the grand edifice, mounted as high as a bird can soar, we think of the dark tunnel where perhaps many hapless soldiers had toiled desperately to find open air; the treasure which might still be hushed somewhere within the hollow mines of the fort. But Jaigarh Fort, detached from these speculations, stands with peaceful majesty like a natural sculpture, sculpted by time on the memories of mankind.

Tickets:- Indian adults: Rupees 150; Foreign Tourists: Rupees 200.There are concessions for students and children. Cameras and video cameras are chargeable.

Timing:9 a.m-5 p.m.

Photographs: Bulbul Sur

Tags: Military architecture, Hidden Tunnels, Hidden Treasure Trove, Search for Treasure, Cannon, Foundry, War Drums, Water Tanks, Jaigarh's treasure, Jaivan, Karak Bijli Cannon,Water Conservation.

For the last stop, the mysterious and beautiful Nahargarh fort follow the same Delhi-Jaipur highway and you will reach Nahargarh Fort within 12 minutes (5.4 km.)

Nahargarh Fort,Jaipur

A King, his Concubine and a Ghost

Sheesh Mahal

Nahargarh Wax Museum in Sheesh Mahal, Hall of Mirrors

Vintage Horse Carriage near Sheesh Mahal

History

Nahargarh Fort in Jaipur, was built in 1734 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh.It stands 700 ft above sea level/city level .

Story

It is supposed to be one of the most haunted forts of Rajasthan. During the fort's construction, while excavation was going on , a strange thing happened. It is said that the workers built the walls and went home after dark. But when they came back the next day, they found the walls had crumbled into rubble. Then it came to light that the place was the resting ground of a dead Rathore prince, Nahar Singh Bhomia, who was angry at the intrusion. In order to pacify the spirit, the king ordered his men to build a temple in his name (Nahar Singh Bhomia) within the fort complex, and from then onwards, all disturbances ended. Still ,as per the locals, his spirit started haunting the palace in the form of mysterious sounds, ghostly apparitions, unexplained happenings... The fort was originally called Sudarshangarh, but later on its name changed to Nahargarh Fort in memory of Nahar Singh Bhomia. Nahargarh also means abode of the tigers.

Since it was built on the summit of a ridge, so the walls of the fort extended over the surrounding hills, forming a natural boundary, connecting it to Jaigarh fort ,which was built above the Amber fort in Amber, the old capital of Jaipur.

Though the main purpose of the fort was to serve as a retreat for the kings of Jaipur, it is a testimony to history too. In the 18th century, the truce between the Rajputana kings and the Maratha warriors was signed here. In the 1857 Sepoy Mutiny, European families were kept in the safe confines of this remote fort under the aegis of the then Maharaja of Jaipur.

Nahargarh Fort later on turned into a prison and hardened criminals were thrown down deep into the gorge ,as some sources say.

Nahargarh Fort during King Jagat Singh's Rule *

King Jagat Singh succeeded Pratap Singh in A.D.1803 as the ruler of Jaipur and ruled for

17 years. He was notorious for being the most dissolute king of his race and time. His reign

was infamous for foreign invasions (wherein cities were besieged), abject yielding to enemy forces, court intrigues... The 'lofty walls' of Jaipur was insulted by 'every marauder'. On top of that he was a 'libertine prince'. He had 'effeminate vices' mainly, 'cowardice '.The royal treasury was 'rapidly dissipated' due to his recklessness. The treasures of the kingdom were faithfully guarded by the hereditary guardians, the Meenas of Kalikho, through generations. But the king squandered the riches on 'unworthy pursuits'. Commerce discontinued and agriculture rapidly declined. The king had no interest in the affairs of the state and 'one day a tailor ruled the councils ,the next a baniyah, who might have succeeded by a brahmin'. They were further elevated to the post of Donjon keep of 'Nahargurh' .

On top of all these calamitous adventures, Raja Jagat Singh was passionately obsessed with his 'Ishlamite concubine', 'Ras-caphoor '(Essence of Camphor)'.He made her 'Queen of half of Amber' and gave her half of the 'crown's power' (king's power). He even gifted her the invaluable library of Sawai Jai Singh (founder of Jaipur), the same library which had made Jaipur a gathering place for learned minds. The library was looted and its treasures were distributed among the concubine's relatives. The Raja struck a coin in her name, rode with her on the same elephant and demanded that his chieftains treat her with the same respect that they would treat his legitimate queens.

His chieftains could not tolerate this and the brave Chand Singh of Doonee refused to take part in any ceremony where she was present. The king punished him by levying on him exorbitant taxes. The chieftains made a plan to depose the king but the plan became known and hence it failed. Then another plan was hatched. The king's friend poisoned his (Jagat Singh) mind against the concubine. The king believed his friend. The king was furious and he issued a mandate by which her property was taken away and she was thrown in the castle of Nahargarh. That was the end of her.

The Visit

A Part of the Mysterious Palace from the Terrace

We went to Nahargarh when the sun was already in its last legs. From the Jaipur-Delhi Highway, we turned left to the road leading to Nahargarh fort. There were many young bikers in groups, or in cars waiting at the roadside and enjoying the beauty. The greenery of the deciduous forest and green gorges were mind-blowing .The road from the plains to the fort is full of hairpin bends and the gorges are also deep. As we were nearing towards the fort, the couples and bikers reduced in number, and it was an eerie adventure to pass through that dense jungle road ( albeit the road was good) with only our vehicle moving and sometimes a lonesome motorbike. It was quite enchanting. Dusk had descended and in the gloaming, the entrance to Nahargarh fort loomed large in the play of shadow and light. By the time we walked towards the palace, after parking our car at the parking lot outside the fort, it was dark and floodlights were lit on. The first palace was the Sheesh Mahal. After a short distance, the main palace area started . The area was very neat and clean.Even the stone-paved road inside the fort was spick and span. The cannon stood before the entrance gate to the palaces, and there was a checking carried out on the visitors.

Common Courtyard of the Nine Palaces

The fort consists of nine palaces. It was built according to the nine planets. Some say that the nine palaces denoted the nine queens/concubines of the king. The first structure is the inner courtyard and all the nine palaces opened to this courtyard. We saw the rooms of one palace,consisting of the living area, bedroom, hall, kitchen , bathroom, which was a replica of all the other palaces. Through the narrow, steep staircase we climbed upstairs. Here, there was another courtyard and entrance to the palaces. They were interconnected through and through, with long, narrow corridors which looked like tunnels. At the centre of the palaces was a distinctive palace which belonged only to the king. It served as his changing room. It is here, that he decided on the special queen (among his nine queens) whom he would visit on that particular day.

Nahargarh Fort is also referred to as a Donjon. It fulfils all the characteristics of a Donjon. Donjon is the main, heavily fortified tower in a castle and hence could withstand attacks. The castle contained the king's living quarters, such as bedrooms, a great hall and other important rooms.

Entrance Gate

Another View of the Courtyard

Endless Tunnels

Golden Fort under the floodlight

Magical and Dreamy structures under the Floodlights at Nahargarh

Breathtakingly beautiful Inlay work

on the wall and floor

Play of Light and Shade in the Palace

Signboard for History Buffs

Last time (nearly 22 years back),when we visited this fort in the afternoon, the doors leading to the corridors were shutting down automatically with a loud thud, for no rhyme or reason. There was no wind anywhere, not even a slight breeze. Unexplained phenomena? But this time the doors were wide open and perhaps secured with door stoppers. From this upper -floor courtyard, we climbed further up to the terrace where we got a expansive and captivating view of Jaipur, especially Bani Park.

A Part of the Palace standing like a Shadow's Shadow

Jaipur City from the Terrace of Nahargarh Fort

But one word of caution: there are lots of monkeys on the terrace, and the staircase to the terrace is very narrow. The monkeys come dangerously close and might snatch your mobile phone. The staircase is also not well lighted, so that we climbed down with the torch from our mobile phones.

The Cannon near the Entrance

A Part of the Courtyard and Corridor

Lighted Room and the Dark Terrace.

Jaipur from the Tower's Crenelated Parapet

While we were still on the terrace, the guards came and warned us that it was nearing seven thirty and the palace will close soon. Though the fort opens at 10.00 a.m. and closes at 5.30 p.m. but that day our visit extended till late evening. The guards rushed all visitors to the exit because it is not safe to stay till late evening (bordering on night), as the forest surrounding it, is part of Nahargarh Wildlife Sanctuary,which is adjacent to the fort.The sanctuary is home to many wild animals, such as leopards,deer,hyenas,tigers,lions,bears, birds etc. Leopards are often seen near the fort at dawn and at dusk; or on the road leading to Nahargarh fort. If you come to Nahargarh fort at around 4.30-5.00 p.m. you can catch its daytime beauty , spectacular sunset from its ramparts and also its eerie mystery at nightfall.

Nahargarh is just 6 km away from Jaipur railway station. At night ,it is lighted up, so that it looks more mysterious, as the yellow illumination shapes itself according to the arches, domes, colonnades and looks like a fairy-tale castle from the foothills. The royal family of Jaipur burst crackers during Diwali in the Nahargarh fort complex.

Ticket: Indian Nationals:-Rupees 100; Foreign Nationals : Rupees 600;concessions for children and students; camera,video camera are chargeable; entry fee for wax museum.

* Reference: Annals and Antiquities of Rajast'han by James Tod ,Volume II

Photographs : Bulbul Sur

bulbul's mind and matter

Panna Meena ka Kund,Jaigarh Fort, Nahargarh Fort

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