Panna Meena ka Kund

Panna Meena ka Kund

                                                 Architecture meets Utility   

                                                     Panna Meena ka Kund

Panna Meena ka Kund

Amber Fort

 Panna Meena ka kund* is an ancient baori*, in Amber, near Jaipur, in Rajasthan, India.  It is situated about 13 km away from Jaipur Railway station and via Amer road it will take about 45 minutes to reach there. Most of the guides show the magnificent, big brother Amber Fort to the tourists, so Panna Meena ka Kund, a hidden historical and architectural wonder is unknown to most tourists. It is concealed in a by lane near Amber Fort. It is just 5 minutes away (750 m) from Amber Fort via Sagar Road. After reaching Amber Fort, you drive a little bit straight passing through shops on both sides and then you turn left to a narrow lane. The narrow road is nothing spectacular with shops, houses, some camels, cows, ancient trees and temples...and just a little farther on, is Panna Meena ka  Kund in all its glory.                                                                     

History

Not much is known about the date of its origin. The most popular accepted version is, it is more than 400 years old and was built in the 17^th century, during the reign of Jai Singh I (1611-1667). Another version is that it was built by a eunuch called Panna Miyan who worked in the durbar of Jai Singh I. He helped Jai Singh to build this stepwell as a rainwater catchment. Hence, the Kund was named after him.

But   local tales suggest that it might be built in the tenth century when Amber was ruled by the Meena tribe.

Before the Rajputs ruled Amber, the Meena Tribes were Amber’s undisputed rulers. A Meena king could not be defeated by the Rajputs, so they resorted to treachery. They took the help of an insider in the Meena dynasty and came to know that during Diwali it was customary for the Meena king to take bath in the kund, leaving his weapons aside. The Rajputs seized one such occasion on Diwali and killed him, and laid the foundation of Kachhwaha dynasty in Amber.

This story is somewhat authenticated by James Tod (famous oriental scholar)  in his book, “Annals and Antiquities of Rajas'than.”  He described vividly how Sora Singh’s son Dhola Rai of the Kacchhwaha dynasty captured Amber. He writes about a similar incident in Khogong, ‘encircled by hills’, ‘within five miles of the modern Jeipoor’ which was ruled by the Meena tribe. Khogong is modern day Amber.

 'On the death of Sora Singh, prince of Nurwar, his brother usurped the government, depriving the infant, Dhola Rae of his inheritance.' Dhola Rai’s mother placed her infant son in a basket, carried it on her head and travelled to the town of Khogong, which was ‘inhabited by Meenas’.

In Khogong, she got a job in the royal household by ‘direction of the Meena Rani’. One day, she (Dhola Rai’s mother) was ‘ordered to prepare dinner’ which Ralunsi, the Meena Raja ate. He found it so good from the usual food which he ate every day, that he sent for the cook. The widowed and exiled queen related her story. When the Meena chief discovered ‘the rank of the illustrious fugitive,’ he adopted the ex-rani as his sister and her son Dhola Rai as his nephew.     

When Dhola Rai attained the Rajput manhood (14 years) he was sent to Delhi ‘with the tribute of Khogong, to attend’ instead of the Meena king. There he stayed for 5 years and hatched a plan to usurp the throne of his benefactor, the Meena King. A Meena d’hadi (bard/minstrel) gave Dhola Rai insider information that during the festival of Diwali, the Meena King with his associates perform ablutions en masse in a tank as was the custom. Dhola Rai, the young ‘cuchwaha’ seized the opportunity and with a few of his Rajput ‘brethren from Delhi’ killed all the Meenas in the stepwell. The kund was filled with dead bodies. Dhola Rai killed the bard too with his own hands, “observing, ‘He who had proved unfaithful to one master, could not be trusted by another.’” He then took possession of Khogong and founded the Kacchhwaha state of Amber 997 years ago, in 1028 AD.

Architecture

Panna Meena ka Kund is a sweet water reservoir, whose water was used for irrigation, drinking and for religious purposes. The stepwell goes down to a depth of 200 metres. There are eight floors and eight level of steps. There are 1300 steps altogether and all descend to the water level. The steps are on three sides, so that there would be ample places for seating purposes.

Intricate ,Criss-cross design of the Steps.
A Chattri, the Promenade and a Bench

The flight of cream-coloured steps is geometrically perfect and the symmetry of the steps is a feast to the eyes. The steps descend and ascend in an intricate, criss-cross way. Another marvel is that, the steps that are used to climb down will not be the same ones to climb up. You have to climb up through a different set of steps. There are no rails on each side to hold while climbing up and down the steps. Descending the steps is now banned for the past couple of years after a drowning incident happened. The corners of the promenade is decorated with chattris, which are ornamental, dome-shaped pavilions. There are benches on this level for resting.

Amber Fort on the Aravalli Range,the Temple and the Pujari

 The ancient Laxmi Narayan Bihari Mandir is built above the stepwell. It was built during the reign of Jai Singh I. It houses the idols of Laxmi Narayan. We could see a pujari, using the water in the kund for religious purpose. The colour of the water is green and there were large, black movements of fish in the water.

The Laxmi Narayan Bihari Temple above  Panna Meena ka Kund

It was not only a Jal Bhandar (water reservoir) in olden days from where women collected water. It was also a place for community gathering especially for women who would share each other’s ideas and gossips. The place is isolated and soothing. During summers, the temperature is 9 degrees lower in the kund area.

There is no entry fee. Service of guides is available. There are some shops outside selling mementos and touristy things.The timing is 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. (may vary) and the best time to visit it is during the monsoons when the hills surrounding it will be emerald green; or from October to March when the climate is pleasant.

 

*Kund: A water reservoir; a small, natural /artificial lake or an excavation filled with water.

*Bauri: A well or a tank with steps, a stepwell.

 Reference:Annals and Antiquities of Rajas'than by James Tod. Book II. 

Photographs: Bulbul Sur.









 

 

Dal Lake,Srinagar

The Floating City

Dal Lake, Srinagar

Dal Lake is the most beautiful sight in Srinagar. It is located in the valley of Zabarwan  range of the Himalayas. Dal is mentioned as Mahasarit in ancient Sanskrit texts.It is associated with Goddess Parvati and was once this lake was considered holy. It is surrounded by Shankaracharya hill on three  sides, and Srinagar city on one side. It is a great tourist attraction.We went  to Dal Lake and decided to ride in a Shikara. The boat ride was for one hour and the charge was 1500 rupees. A bit of bargaining had to be done . At first, the ride was scary because the boat was tilting a lot. But later,it became steady.

                                   

 

                                                           Shikara Stand

                              

                                                                    Huge Dal Lake

             

           Floating Market

 Houses and Shops on the Lake 

                                                                                                                                             

Soon, some shopkeepers came to us in shikaras and sold us items such as Kawa,coffee, ice-cream,handicrafts,jewellery etc. Most amazing thing was the floating market on the lake.

There were shopping centres like normal towns and the most famous was Meena Bazaar. There were mobile shops , garment and stationery shops, small hotels and tea stalls, gardens , vegetable mandi , grocery shops: everything which  a person needs  on land.The water is somewhat greenish with little waves, and in some parts seemed dirty. The lake looked like a large expanse of habitable land, populated and thriving metropolis, except it was on water. There were shopping centres ,mobile shops , houses on boats, floating gardens (known as Rad in Kashmiri) , vegetable haat , grocery shops; everything which is needed to survive in a town on firm ground.

 Lotus bloomed on the lake. Eagles flew above. On the shore we saw a tree with an eagle’s nest. We also saw a Brahminy duck .During winters Dal lake will be full of thousands of such migratory birds.

      Hazratbal Road,Dal Lake, Srinagar

                                    Shankacharya Hill        

 

   Char Chinar

                                                                                                    Woody Forest                                         Traffic On Dal Lake    

There is even a small island on the lake called Char Chinar.There are Chinar trees on its four corners, hence the name. It was built by Murad Baksh,brother of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb . Lotus flowers and water lilies bloomed in abundance, and the woods comprised of trees like water chestnut,cypress and chinar. 

Our Shikara was nicely decorated with a red carpet spread along the length of the boat. There were many cushions and  the boatman advised us to stretch our legs for greater comfort. There was a seat in the middle too for a single person.

  Brahminy Duck  

                                    Floating Gardens

                                                                                       

The friendly,polite boatman knew many things and told us in detail about the floating vegetation in the Dal Lake.

 

 v      Kashmiri Woman cutting  Vegetation  

 Support for Creepers         

                                                                                           

                                                                                                      Vegetables cultivated on the Lake 

  As soon as the grass grows to a certain height, local Kashmiri women cut it off and use it as

 fodder for cattle. These women make the famous Kashmiri carpets at home during winters and off seasons. He also showed us vegetable cultivation in the water,such as bottle gourd, tomatoes and pumpkin. The house owners  on the banks cultivated such items. The vegetable market is very big and it is held early in the morning. Vegetable vendors come as early as four o’ clock to sell their wares.

As our boat ride continued,  we could see huge house boats on the lake.They were decorated with fancy lace curtains and other accessories. They were like two bedroom houses, complete with balconies and  sitting decks. 

  

                                                Floating Palaces on Dal Lake (House Boats)

      

               

                                                    Floating Lotus Garden                                                         

As our boat progressed we could see melons and cucumbers cultivation but floating in the water. They were not attached to the bottom of the lake. The vegetation was healthy green in colour.Wooden support was made for the creepers.                                  

As we were nearing the shore, we saw three school children;  two girls and one boy, coming back from school, rowing a boat. In fact, they were fighting among themselves on who would row the boat. The boatman explained to us that the children were taught to row boats from early as four years of age. In fact, he showed us a small oar stuck in the ceiling of his boat. It was a small size but it was used to train children.

       

 Small Oar on the Ceiling                                     School Children on a Boat

 

 Photographs: Bipasha Bhardwaj and Shivansh Bhardwaj

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

http://www.uptourism.gov.in/

  Jai Shri Ram

                                                           

The Journey

As our plane took off from Delhi Airport, the pilgrims shouted, “Jai Shri Ram.” When we were about to land, the air hostess ended her announcement with, “Jai Sri Ram.” The atmosphere was spiritually electrifying.

When we landed at Maharishi Valmiki International Airport, Ayodhya Dham, and were waiting for our bus, one lady did ‘sashtang pranam’(prostration) on the tarmac.

The Arrivals Lounge was something out of the world. The walls were adorned with heritage paintings showcasing the rich culture of Bharat, and people paid obeisance to a large picture of Sri Ram at the exit gate.

 

 Maharishi Valmiki International Airport          

    Sri Ram near the Exit Gate

                             A Painting at Arrivals Lounge                                    

 

                                                        

                                                                 Ram Mandir-Like Architecture at Arrivals Terminal                                        

                                                                                      Paintings at the Baggage Carousel

        

                                           

The taxi drivers who had gathered at the exit were only taking outstation passengers. So, we settled for an auto. We had to walk quite a distance to the vehicle stand. The road leading out of the airport area towards the city, had huge empty spaces on both sides, with a promise for development.

Ayodhya

Ayodhya is like any other small, Indian town. It is a mixture of deprivation and growth. We noticed one swanky hotel and a resort but no high-rise apartments. Narrow roads were crammed with shops and residential houses (mostly tenements) on either side. As we went further inside, developmental work on a grand scale came into view. The walls of a flyover were painted with scenes from Ramayan, or animals and birds. We could see wide roads, plush shops and restaurants. On one side was a pandal which was the venue for Murari Bapu’s Ram Katha.

That same auto driver offered us an exploration of Ayodhya in the evening.

Ram Mandir

At five p.m. we set out. The auto driver dropped us at a certain point and told us that the Mandir was about 600 m away and we had to walk the rest of the way. He also advised us to see Hanuman Garhi, Dashrath Mahal, Kanak Bhavan, laser light show at Sarayu Ghat because everything was in close proximity with each other; and he would pick us up at specified place when he gets our call. With great innocence we believed him and then started walking. We asked a policeman and he said Ram Mandir was one km away. So, we hired an e-rickshaw who took us through a by lane, very crowded with roadside shops selling dry fruits especially raisins, and usual touristy things. The rickshaw dropped us near the main road called Ram Path. There were policemen at every nook and corner.  We could see the entrance gate of Ram Mandir but still we   followed blindly, the hordes of people walking straight ahead. But then we saw another crowd coming from the opposite direction. So, we asked a policeman who told us that we had left the gate behind. We again walked back to the entrance gate but by then it was closed and barricaded. However, a lady officer took pity on us and allowed us to enter.

 

The Entrance Gate for Ram Mandir Complex

        Seating Arrangements inside the Complex

At last, all the confusion ended and there was only walking ahead. By the side of the road there were drinking water kiosks and stone benches for taking rest. As usual, there were lots of policemen at regular intervals. After walking for some time, I asked a policeman, the distance to be still covered and he said,’ half a kilometer more.’

            On Ram Path

  Development in Ayodhya

                               

At last we reached the entry gate of the temple. Our bags had to go through a scanner. Many people had come with luggage. Now we could understand the significance of the crowd on Ram Path, approaching from the opposite direction. They were coming directly from the railway station and were heading straight to Ram Mandir with their bag and baggage.

We kept our shoes at the shoe counter. There were rows of lockers opposite to the shoe counters. Since nobody stopped us, we took our handbags and mobile phones to the final entry gate. There were separate lines for males and females. As my turn came, the policewoman stopped me. I had also taken vastra to offer to Shri Ram but she said that nothing can be offered to the deity and she also told me the options. If I deposit my things with her, then after darshan, I had to come out of the exit route, re-enter the entrance route, and collect my things from her. Another easier option was to exit the line, go back to the locker and deposit our things. We came out of the line, walked back to the locker, deposited our things and again came back to stand last in the entrance line. After my security check, I waited for my husband on the other side but he was nowhere to be seen. The policeman told me that the entrance gate had been closed because, ‘aarti has started at Ram Mandir.’ So again waiting. A Telegu lady was with me, whose son had been stranded and there were other ladies whose husbands along with their infant sons were on the other side. Finally, after about 15/20 minutes, the gate was opened and then it was just a matter of minutes for the Darshan. All the hurdles were overcome.

As we walked with the pilgrims, the striking feature was their composure. All walked silently except for an occasional Jai Shri Ram. There was no pushing or rushing. The path was carpeted. Night had fallen and the road was well-lit.

As soon as we entered the Mandir premises, the policemen made us form lines. There were four lines altogether. The idol is 51 inches tall, and from afar, as soon as we climbed the 32 steps leading to the sanctum sanctorum, we could see the deity. Lord Hanuman’s statue was at the entrance stairs. As I was nearing the deity, I could feel divine vibrations. This is the birthplace of Sri Ram and He was in a tent for countless years! Many kar sevaks (religious volunteers) were mercilessly shot at, burnt alive in a train, countless sadhus laid down their lives but still the devotion of the people did not diminish in the least--as if, it’s their responsibility to deliver Ram Lalla from the tent and provide Him the rightful temple that He deserves. What we are seeing is the finished product, resolved after 500 years of conflict and court cases. My homage is nothing compared to the dedication of the kar sevaks, who sacrificed their lives for a lofty ideal. The architecture was stupendous—intricate carvings on pink sandstone, the hollow dome with beautiful designs, lofty pillars decorated with carvings of Gods and Goddesses, marble statues...All were breathtaking. But nobody could stand and enjoy the beauty because the line was moving and the policemen were rushing us (one policeman for each line).

Then the divine experience! Shri Ram in all His glory but again the rushing. Everybody got only a few seconds of time.  We came out through the opposite doorway, the exit, where there were again policemen. We were given small packets of prasad (holy gift). While walking back, we saw policemen sitting at regular intervals. We gathered our belongings from the shoe counter and the locker counter. The counters were without any charges.

Darshan over, feeling light and blessed, we walked towards the main road, that is Ram Path. The road did not seem long anymore. On Ram Path only e-rickshaws, autos are allowed and very rarely a bike. We hired an e-rickshaw and came to Theri Bazaar, from where our auto driver picked us up and dropped us at the hotel. People talked about 500/600 m but we walked nearly two and a half km.                 

Day 2

Next day, we decided to hire a car which was suggested to us by our hotel. Our main stipulation was that we will walk the shortest distance, yet see all the places related to Shri Ram. The owner cum driver, Pratap Singh agreed and said that he would take us through the shortest route and also act as our guide. He would charge us 3000 rupees and the entire sightseeing would take 5 hours.

We set out at 8 a.m. and Pratapji brought us to the same intersection, from where we had walked the day before. He drove his car through Ram Path and parked at a suitable place. Since it was early morning the policeman did not stop him. Then, Pratapji walked with us.

Dashrath Mahal

                                            The Outer Facade of Dashrath Mahal
 The Inner Façade of Dashrath Mahal 

 Hanuman Mandir in the outer Courtyard

                         

                                     Entering the Palace through the Outer Courtyard

                             

                                                            The Temple in the Inner Courtyard

                        

It is a vast, two-storey palace, with inner and outer courtyards. In the outer courtyard there was a small temple of Hanumanji. We climbed hardly a few steps, and came to the inner courtyard where the real palace stood grandly, with corridors stretching in both directions. Downstairs, in the inner hall, was a temple of Ram, Sita, Lakshman and Hanuman.

Kanak Mahal

  Entrance to Kanak Mahal   

 Outer Façade of Kanak Mahal

                     

                                                                 

  

                                                            Inner Façade of Kanak Mahal

                                                                                                       

Kanak Mahal belonged to Kaikeyi, King Dashrath’s second and most powerful queen. She had gifted this palace to Shri Ram and Sita as a wedding present. It is a grand, two-storey structure with the same architectural symmetry like Dashrath Mahal. Here too, there is a temple of Ram Lalla, and the hall accompanying it is quite large. In the inner courtyard is a small, arched enclosure, in which there are imprints of Sri Ram’s feet. Just below it, is another sacred spot, labelled as Hawan Kund (place for holy rituals).

  

                                         People advancing towards the Temple

                                   Ancient Hawan Kund

 

Outer Courtyard of Kanak Mahal

 Sanctum Sanctorum

       Enclosure of Sri Ram’s Footprints               

 Sri Ram’s Footprints

                         

Outside the palaces, shops were selling Ram Lalla’s photo, replica of Ram Mandir, and the usual pujan samagri.

Hanuman Garhi

We walked about 50 m from the palaces and came to Hanuman Garhi. It is believed that Sri Ram, after his victorious return to Ayodhya, designated this very place to Hanumanji as his abode; and before Sri Ram took   jalsamadhi (water burial) to go to gokul lok (celestial abode), He entrusted Hanumanji to guard Ayodhya from there. The road leading to Hanuman Garhi is narrow and twisted, with shops and old, residential buildings on either side. Very disciplined beggars were sitting on either side of the lane. We bought sweetmeats to offer at the temple and then came to the line. There was no line as such. People gathered in clusters with babies in their arms. We also stood in the cluster. Some invisible force made us stand there, otherwise both of us are wary of crowds, fearing stampede. From afar, we could see the temple and people climbing up the steps. It was a Saturday, (Lord Hanuman’s day) so the crowd was mindboggling. There were 76 steps in all. My husband was reluctant to go but Pratap Singh assured him, “You will be propelled forward, so that you won’t have the feeling of climbing. Without even realizing, you will be before the deity.”

            Before Hanuman Garhi 

 

           Narrow, winding Lanes leading to Hanuman Garhi

                                                                                Fortified with this assurance, we waited our turn patiently. People were indeed very calm, even the babies were not crying. Some people were reciting Hanuman Chalisa (holy book celebrating Lord Hanuman). We were advancing in baby steps, and then there was total immobility. What happened? The policeman standing next to us and controlling the crowd, said, ‘There is a great congregation at the Garbh Griha (sanctum sanctorum). After that is cleared, mobility will resume.”

Suddenly we heard, ‘Jai Shri Ram’. People started moving again. We came near the temple. A policeman was controlling the crowd by lifting and lowering a railway level-crossing-like apparatus, a huge bamboo pole. People started pushing. Everybody wanted to go past that apparatus. As the bamboo came down, the pushing stopped. We climbed a few steps and then there was a landing. One policeman saw us and asked us to form another line for senior citizens and children. Then, it became very easy. We were given priority and in no time, we galloped quickly to the sanctum sanctorum, housing the beautiful white, idol of Lord Hanuman. People believe that Lord Hanuman still resides here and guards Ayodhya. Two priests were taking offerings from both sides and were also giving us prasad. But no time to stand peacefully. The policeman inside, barked orders and we came out through another opening and again walked back to the sweet shop, where we had kept our shoes.

Then, through the narrow lane, we came to Ram Path, walked past the entrance gate of Ram Temple and finally reached our car. Everything was indeed in close proximity, which we did not realize the day before.

The 1990 infamous shooting on unarmed kar sevaks took place in Hanuman Garhi (ordered by the then chief minister, Mulayam Singh Yadav), where shots were fired on them from the terrace of temples. People tried to escape through the circuitous, narrow lanes but they were mercilessly tracked down and killed. The kar sevaks tried to escape the gunshots and jumped into Sarayu river. Their bodies were never recovered.

Sarayu and Ram Ki Paidi

While going by car to Sarayu, we could see tent cities being built up on its banks to cater to the large influx of tourists.

We had already told Pratap Singhji that we will walk the shortest route possible. So, instead of coming to Ram Ki Paidi through Lata Mangeshkar chowk, we travelled by car through an ancient, residential area with narrow, winding roads, with houses rising right from the road itself. The houses were moderate, stand-alone structures, with an occasional haveli (mansion)juxtaposed in between.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                             

    An Ancient Haveli  

 Close-up of the Haveli                                         

                                               

                                                            

                                                    Houses rising from  the narrow, clean Road

Pratapji parked his car at a comparatively wide lane and then walked with us to show us the actual location. The lanes and by lanes were extremely clean. The road ended into an open platform with a huge billboard of Lord Hanuman, welcoming us. Below the billboard is a water body, where water is being pumped into it from Sarayu river, which in turn flows into Ram ki Paidi, and then again flows back to Sarayu.

Water Body below the Billboard           

      

                                                                   Water flowing into Ram Ki Paidi 

The sacred Sarayu river stretched from end to end, with enormous bathing ghats. Stone steps led to the river, where people were bathing. Some boats were moored near the river.

 The holy Sarayu River and its Ghats 

 

       Sarayu Bank

 

                                People filling water bottles with the sacred Sarayu Water 

 

                                         Joyful Bathers in the cool, clean Waters of Sarayu

                                                                                      .

But Naya Ghat in Ram Ki Paidi is spectacular with its red steps and banks. Men, women and children were bathing joyfully in the clear water with not a care in the world. It is here that lamps are lit during Diwali, which created Guinness world record in 2019.There are many ancient temples and buildings in the plaza opposite to it. One famous temple is Shri Nageshwarnathji, the reigning deity of Ayodhya, built by Sri Ram’s son Kush. We offered puja at the temple. There was a great rush but people were in line, and the pujari (priest) was very generous, with absolutely no greed. Nobody asked us anything in all the temples that we had visited thus far. There is also a Sanskrit Mahavidyalaya (college) in one haveli . All the buildings were painted in the same light-orange hue. We saw an ancient structure made of matchbox-sized bricks. Perhaps it was not dismantled due to its architectural ingenuity. Near it, was a small Shiv temple with imprint of ancientness.

   Ancient Architectural Marvel

                                                    

   Ancient Shiv Mandir

 A wide View of Ram Ki Paidi   The Temples along the Shores of Naya Ghat                                                                  

            

After worshipping Nageshwarnathji, we walked all along the plaza of Naya Ghat, with the Sarayu flowing below, passing shops selling tea and eatables, book stores selling Ram Charit Manas and other religious books, shops selling pujan samagri (offering to God) and came near Lata Mangeshkar chowk overlooking a bridge. The most noticeable feature of the chowk is the huge, decorative veena sculpture, weighing 14 tonnes.

                                                                                                 

 

             

       The Veena Sculpture in Lata Mangeshkar Chowk as seen from Ram Ki Paidi               

Parikrama Marg

While travelling by car, we saw multiple signages called ‘Parikrama Marg’. Ayodhya has three Parikrama Margs:5 kos, which is about 15 kms;14 kos, which is about 42 km, and 84 kos, which is about 275 km. They are all related to Sri Ram and He did parikrama on these paths. Among these, 84 kos is the most important because it was started during treta yug which started in 2,163,102 BCE. Parikrama Marg will be developed in due time and ashrams, rest houses will be built for Sadhus on pilgrimages. Once a year, during Karthik (October-November) devotees also do parikrama. Then, bhandaras (kitchen supplying free food) , medical kiosks are set up on the roadside, so that the pilgrims do not encounter problems and hardships.

On one side of the road, we could see a different image of Sarayu river, stagnant with hyacinths, garbage, debris. Cranes were picking up the garbage. In due time, this part of Sarayu will be developed as Sita Jhil (lake).

 

  

Cleaning up Sarayu River for making Sita Jhil

While on the road, we could see another portion of Ram Temple, where construction work was going on.

Local people told us that there was nothing in Ayodhya before. Nobody visited the town. The places near the sacred Sarayu river stank because it was a place for open defecation. Even natives of Ayodhya could not see Ram Lalla (affectionate term for the infant Sri Ram). It was kept in a tent and heavily guarded. Pilgrims could only see the tent, not the idol.  The entry to the place was through a very narrow lane and only one person could enter it at a time. Earlier ,in Ayodhya, there were no industries, no tourism; so, people mostly worked in private firms or had small shops or businesses in transport. Amidst the influx of tourists, the existing houses have been remodeled into hotels. There are many homestays too. But people don’t come to stay here. From the railway station or airport, they head straight to Ram Mandir to have a darshan. Only for a night they might avail a homestay to invigorate themselves.

 Guptar Ghat   

  A Boat in Sarayu at Guptar Ghat 

           Expanse of Sand in the middle of  Sarayu bordered by Forests 

Ships moored to the Shore of Sarayu at Guptar Ghat

 Expansion of Sarayu River at Guptar Ghat   Ships anchored  in Sarayu at Guptar Ghat   

        People Travelling in a Boat to the Sand

   

  Peacefulness at Guptar Ghat

     

Boats, Ships, Sand, Motor Cycles in Sarayu River. Petrol Pump on the Shore

Guptar Ghat is 10km away from Ayodhya junction. While going to this place the scenery changed. The hurly-burly of pilgrims was nowhere to be seen; only age-old trees, songs of birds and spanking new playgrounds and parks.

Finally, we came to Guptar Ghat which is on the banks of Sarayu river. It is near Ayodhya military Cantonment. Guptar means secretive. It is here that Sri Ramchandra took ‘jalsamadhi’.

Another person was cremated here by about 13 people, 'Gumnami Baba’, who many believe to be Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose. It is said that except for these two cremations, no other cremations took place. There are a series of steps leading to the river, but water has accumulated only near the ghats. The middle of the river is a bed of sand. Water sports such as jet-skiing was going on. Ships were moored to the shore or anchored in the water. Some people were going in ships to the sand and enjoying themselves by having picnics or riding motor cycles. The river is very long and wide and everything is scrupulously clean: the water, the ghats, the steps, the plaza. Beyond the river, far away, dense forests bordered the bank. During monsoons, this river fills up and water reaches up to the steps of the plaza. There is a thatched hut on the shore which serves as a petrol pump to the ships. A cruise is on the anvil, from Naya Ghat in Ayodhya to Guptar Ghat.

There were less than ten people at Guptar Ghat (including us). It is a peaceful treat to walk on the plaza and soak in the atmosphere. In the 21^st century it is so secluded, so you can imagine its secretiveness thousands of years ago.

Nandigram

Nandigram is 19 km from Ayodhya town. It is from here that Bharat ruled Ayodhya for 14 years in Sri Ram’s absence . He chose this place because it is on the frontiers of Ayodhya, and at the commencement of Vanvas (exile), Sri Ramchandra took soil from here to remind him of his motherland. There is a waterbody here called Bharat Kund, so that Nandigram is also called Bharat Kund. It is in this kund that Bharat took bath for 14 years. There is a temple complex in a very clean, peaceful enclosure. It is called, 'Yogiraj Sri Bharatji Ka Prachin Mandir'(Ancient temple of Sri Bharat, the great ascetic).It was built by King Vikramaditya*.  This enclosure houses ,'Ram Bharat Milap Mandir' (temple of Ram and Bharat's meeting) and other temples. In one temple, Sri Ramchandra’s padukas (ancient archetypal footwear) are kept. There is another temple for Bharat where his padukas are kept along with a small replica of Shri Ram’s padukas. It is actually a cave turned into a temple. You have to climb down a few steps to reach the garbh griha.  Yogiraj Bharat meditated in this cave. It is here in Nandigram where Bharat struck an arrow at Lord Hanuman. When Bharat was keeping vigil over Ayodhya from Nandigram, then one night, he saw an enormous shape in the sky. Thinking it to be a rakshas (demon), he shot an arrow at it and brought it down. It was actually Lord Hanuman who was returning to Lanka with the sanjeevani medicine to save Lakshman. There is also a tree in this temple complex under which Bharat and Lord Hanuman embraced each other and reconciled. There are temples of Mahadev and Prabhu Hanuman too .

   

        Entrance Gate of  'Yogiraj Shri Bharatji ka Prachin Mandir'  

       

                                                                          Temple Complex
                                                                                     

                                    

                                          Amba Mata’s Form in a Temple

                   Ram Bharat Milap Mandir                                   

    Sri Ram’s Padukas in the Temple

                                                            

 Bharat Kund 

  

 Yogiraj Bharat’s Padukas and a Replica of Sri Ram’s Padukas.

        Yogiraj Bharat in the Garbh Griha

    Yogiraj Bharat’s Temple                  

  Cave-like Structure of Bharat Mandir

                                                      

Badi Devkali Temple

    

                           Badi Devkali Mandir

                                                                              

                                                       The soothing Lake in the Temple Complex

Sri Sri Ravishankar had written in TOI and also posted on X handle, his contribution to the resurrection Devkali Mandir. One day, when he was meditating in his ashram, he saw an image of a temple in acute ruins, and a pond nearby which was a garbage dump. A few days later, an elderly Naadi Siddhar from Tamil Nadu visited the ashram and met Gurudev. As he read the ancient palm leaves, he told Gurudev, “The naadi leaves also reveal that a temple built for the kula devi (family deity) of Shri Rama, Devkali, is languishing in severe neglect. Unless it is restored, the violence and strife surrounding the Ram Temple in Ayodhya will never end.” Through some contacts, Gurudev made enquiries of Kali temples in Ayodhya. Then it came to light that there were indeed 2 Kali Mandirs; one was in the heart of the city called Chhoti Devkali Mandir (where Mata Sita worshipped Parvati, which she had brought from Janakpur) and the other was known as Devkali Mandir or Badi Devkali Mandir. Sri Sri Ravishankar asked his volunteers from Delhi and Lucknow and set about to restore Badi Devkali Mandir and rejuvenate the pond. This was in 2001.On 19^th September,2002 the reconsecration of the temple was done under the aegis of Gurudev. The temple was restored to its full glory and the garbage dump became a beautiful jhil. Since then, there have been no riots in Ayodhya. Sri Sri Ravi Shankar had a premonition that Ram Temple will be built only after 14 years (from the date of reconsecration of Devkali Mandir). From 2017, negotiations started and a bloodless verdict was given in favor of Ram Mandir.

   Architecture near the Jhil

 Devkali Mata’s Mandir

 Another form of Devkali Mata

Lord Hanuman’s Mandir

         

In 2002, Sri Sri Ravishankar visited Ayodhya’s sacred sites. He wrote, “The town’s narrow lanes, litter-strewn paths, and overall lack of hygiene painted a stark picture of neglect. A sense of fear prevailed among people. Everywhere I went people would have a tragic story to tell about how many sadhus and saints have been killed over this long-standing conflict. Nobody would dare to speak up for these sadhus who had no designated ashrams, no family, no locus standi. It was heart-rending to hear their tales of woes, stories that never found a place in the media.”

But now in 2024, Hanuman Garhi, Dashrath Mahal, Kanak Bhavan, Ram path and where ever we went, were spotlessly clean. There was not a single piece of garbage lying on the road. Roadside eateries were doing brisk business. All the pujaris were restrained, content, and were satisfied with just a coin.    The polite policemen were ever smiling and helpful but very firm in the dispensation of their duties. Local people in Ayodhya were courteous, cordial and very composed as if they were guided by divine light. Nobody spoke in a high tone.

 Cleanliness of Ayodhya

  Ancient Ruins

Leaving Ayodhya

The departure lounge of Maharishi Valmiki International Airport, Ayodhya Dham, was again a splendid affair. The architecture in red sandstone was modelled according to Ram Mandir, and inside, on one wall was Sankatmochan Hanuman Ashtak in a pictorial form. A display board advertised Amitabh Bachchan as an investor (in Ayodhya) in a seven-star property called Sarayu.

  

               

                   Departure Terminal

  Pillars in Temple-Style Architecture

  Intricate Designs

  Sankatmochan Hanuman Ashtak in Pictures                                                                       

     Post Script: Kalighat Temple, Kolkata

Kalighat temple is notorious for its avaricious pandas (guides in religious sites) . I went there in 2007 when it was a laissez faire attitude . A single panda accompanied me and made me buy pujan samagri from his designated shops. The samagri was costly to a small degree but we had a good darshan and the panda did not demand anything more.

Since the past few years, the present government has touted that Kalighat Temple is free from pandas; walkways, skyways have been built and it has become very congenial to pilgrims. But in 2022 when my husband and I went, it was a different game altogether. The pandas operated as gangs. We did not even seek their help. We asked a lady for the direction and one dhoti-clad, hefty man started walking with us. We went to buy pujan samagri. Now one more joined him and guided us to a shop. It was a Saturday, so there was a huge crowd. So, a third figured out from somewhere and said if we pay 250 rupees, we will have VIP entry. There were no tickets as such and no policemen. We spotted only one policeman, who was supervising a road construction. I had put dakshina (monetary offering to God) in the cane baskets holding the pujan samagri of mine, my daughter’s and my sister’s, and the man offered to hold them, all the while whispering, “Take care of your handbag. Thefts are very common here.” When we reached the ‘Garbh Griha,’ I took the baskets from him and I saw that the dakshina was missing from all the three baskets. When I countered him, he shouted back at me, “How will I know?”

Everywhere, there were pandas and they looked like walking ATMs with hordes of 500 rupees stuck between their fingers. We came back to the shoe counter for our shoes and the boy charged 20 rupees (without any receipt). I was still very angry at the dakshina theft. Still, I took out a 100 rupee note to get rid of the panda and suddenly 3-4 hefty looking pandas surrounded us and demanded 300 rupees. There was no choice except to give in to their demand.  When I narrated the incident to my sister, my brother- in- law said that they are scared to go to Kalighat and this is true of most local people.

This is the difference in governance. Lakhs of people are going to Ram Mandir everyday from every corner of India : in groups, with tour companies or individually. But everything is streamlined. Policemen are doing their duties. We did not encounter a single panda. But in Kalighat, tolabaji (extortion) is going on rampantly and there is no check.

Jai Shri Ram

Photographs: S.K. Sur and Bulbul Sur

 

*Vikramaditya was a legendary king who began the Vikram Sambat era in 57 BCE. It is said that he rediscovered Ayodhya after it was lost for centuries.