Jai Shri Ram
The Journey
As our plane took off from Delhi Airport, the pilgrims shouted, “Jai Shri Ram.” When we were about to land, the air hostess ended her announcement with, “Jai Sri Ram.” The atmosphere was spiritually electrifying.
When we landed
at Maharishi Valmiki International Airport, Ayodhya Dham, and were
waiting for our bus, one lady did ‘sashtang pranam’(prostration) on the tarmac.
The Arrivals Lounge was something out of the world. The walls were adorned with heritage paintings showcasing the rich culture of Bharat, and people paid obeisance to a large picture of Sri Ram at the exit gate.
Maharishi Valmiki International Airport
Sri Ram near the Exit Gate
A Painting at Arrivals Lounge
Ram Mandir-Like Architecture at Arrivals Terminal
Paintings at the Baggage Carousel
The taxi drivers
who had gathered at the exit were only taking outstation passengers. So, we
settled for an auto. We had to walk quite a distance to the vehicle stand. The
road leading out of the airport area towards the city, had huge empty spaces on
both sides, with a promise for development.
Ayodhya
Ayodhya is
like any other small, Indian town. It is a mixture of deprivation and growth.
We noticed one swanky hotel and a resort but no high-rise apartments. Narrow
roads were crammed with shops and residential houses (mostly tenements) on
either side. As we went further inside, developmental work on a grand scale
came into view. The walls of a flyover were painted with scenes from Ramayan, or
animals and birds. We could see wide roads, plush shops and restaurants. On one
side was a pandal which was the venue for Murari Bapu’s Ram Katha.
That same
auto driver offered us an exploration of Ayodhya in the evening.
Ram Mandir
At five p.m.
we set out. The auto driver dropped us at a certain point and told us that the
Mandir was about 600 m away and we had to walk the rest of the way. He also
advised us to see Hanuman Garhi, Dashrath Mahal, Kanak Bhavan, laser light show
at Sarayu Ghat because everything was in close proximity with each other; and
he would pick us up at specified place when he gets our call. With great
innocence we believed him and then started walking. We asked a policeman and he
said Ram Mandir was one km away. So, we hired an e-rickshaw who took us through
a by lane, very crowded with roadside shops selling dry fruits especially
raisins, and usual touristy things. The rickshaw dropped us near the main road
called Ram Path. There were policemen at every nook and corner. We could see the entrance gate of Ram Mandir
but still we followed blindly, the hordes of people walking
straight ahead. But then we saw another crowd coming from the opposite
direction. So, we asked a policeman who told us that we had left the gate
behind. We again walked back to the entrance gate but by then it was closed and
barricaded. However, a lady officer took pity on us and allowed us to enter.
The Entrance Gate for Ram Mandir Complex
Seating
Arrangements inside the Complex
At last, all
the confusion ended and there was only walking ahead. By the side of the road
there were drinking water kiosks and stone benches for taking rest. As usual,
there were lots of policemen at regular intervals. After walking for some time, I asked a policeman, the distance to be still covered
and he said,’ half a kilometer more.’
On Ram Path
Development in Ayodhya
At last we reached the entry gate of the temple. Our bags had to go through a scanner. Many people had come with luggage. Now we could understand the significance of the crowd on Ram Path, approaching from the opposite direction. They were coming directly from the railway station and were heading straight to Ram Mandir with their bag and baggage.
We kept our
shoes at the shoe counter. There were rows of lockers opposite to the shoe
counters. Since nobody stopped us, we took our handbags and mobile phones to
the final entry gate. There were separate lines for males and females. As my
turn came, the policewoman stopped me. I had also taken vastra to offer
to Shri Ram but she said that nothing can be offered to the deity and she also
told me the options. If I deposit my things with her, then after darshan, I had
to come out of the exit route, re-enter the entrance route, and collect my
things from her. Another easier option was to exit the line, go back to the
locker and deposit our things. We came out of the line, walked back to the locker,
deposited our things and again came back to stand last in the entrance line. After
my security check, I waited for my husband on the other side but he was nowhere to
be seen. The policeman told me that the entrance gate had been closed because,
‘aarti has started at Ram Mandir.’ So again waiting. A Telegu lady was with me,
whose son had been stranded and there were other ladies whose husbands along
with their infant sons were on the other side. Finally, after about 15/20 minutes,
the gate was opened and then it was just a matter of minutes for the Darshan. All
the hurdles were overcome.
As we walked
with the pilgrims, the striking feature was their composure. All walked
silently except for an occasional Jai Shri Ram. There was no pushing or rushing.
The path was carpeted. Night had fallen and the road was well-lit.
As soon as we
entered the Mandir premises, the policemen made us form lines. There were four
lines altogether. The idol is 51 inches tall, and from afar, as soon as we
climbed the 32 steps leading to the sanctum sanctorum, we could see the deity. Lord
Hanuman’s statue was at the entrance stairs. As I was nearing the deity, I could
feel divine vibrations. This is the birthplace of Sri Ram and He was in a tent
for countless years! Many kar sevaks (religious volunteers) were mercilessly shot at, burnt alive in a
train, countless sadhus laid down their lives but still the devotion of the
people did not diminish in the least--as if, it’s their responsibility to deliver
Ram Lalla from the tent and provide Him the rightful temple that He deserves. What
we are seeing is the finished product, resolved after 500 years of conflict and
court cases. My homage is nothing compared to the dedication of the kar sevaks,
who sacrificed their lives for a lofty ideal. The architecture was
stupendous—intricate carvings on pink sandstone, the hollow dome with beautiful
designs, lofty pillars decorated with carvings of Gods and Goddesses, marble
statues...All were breathtaking. But nobody could stand and enjoy the beauty
because the line was moving and the policemen were rushing us (one policeman
for each line).
Then the
divine experience! Shri Ram in all His glory but again the rushing. Everybody
got only a few seconds of time. We came out
through the opposite doorway, the exit, where there were again policemen. We
were given small packets of prasad (holy gift). While walking back, we saw policemen
sitting at regular intervals. We gathered our belongings from the shoe counter
and the locker counter. The counters were without any charges.
Darshan over,
feeling light and blessed, we walked towards the main road, that is Ram Path.
The road did not seem long anymore. On Ram Path only e-rickshaws, autos are
allowed and very rarely a bike. We hired an e-rickshaw and came to Theri Bazaar,
from where our auto driver picked us up and dropped us at the hotel. People talked
about 500/600 m but we walked nearly two and a half km.
Day 2
Next day, we
decided to hire a car which was suggested to us by our hotel. Our main
stipulation was that we will walk the shortest distance, yet see all the places
related to Shri Ram. The owner cum driver, Pratap Singh agreed and said that he
would take us through the shortest route and also act as our guide. He would charge
us 3000 rupees and the entire sightseeing would take 5 hours.
We set out at
8 a.m. and Pratapji brought us to the same intersection, from where we had walked
the day before. He drove his car through Ram Path and parked at a suitable place.
Since it was early morning the policeman did not stop him. Then, Pratapji
walked with us.
Dashrath
Mahal
The Inner Façade of Dashrath Mahal 
Hanuman Mandir in the outer Courtyard 
Entering the Palace through the Outer Courtyard
The Temple in the Inner Courtyard
It is a vast,
two-storey palace, with inner and outer courtyards. In the outer courtyard there was a small temple of Hanumanji. We climbed hardly a few steps, and came to the
inner courtyard where the real palace stood grandly, with corridors stretching
in both directions. Downstairs, in the inner hall, was a temple of Ram, Sita, Lakshman
and Hanuman.
Kanak Mahal
Entrance to Kanak Mahal
Outer Façade of Kanak Mahal
Inner Façade of Kanak Mahal
Kanak Mahal
belonged to Kaikeyi, King Dashrath’s second and most powerful queen. She had
gifted this palace to Shri Ram and Sita as a wedding present. It is a grand, two-storey structure with the same architectural symmetry like Dashrath Mahal. Here too,
there is a temple of Ram Lalla, and the hall accompanying it is quite large. In
the inner courtyard is a small, arched enclosure, in which there are imprints
of Sri Ram’s feet. Just below it, is another sacred spot, labelled as Hawan
Kund (place for holy rituals).
People advancing towards the Temple
Ancient Hawan Kund
Sanctum Sanctorum
Enclosure of Sri Ram’s Footprints
Sri Ram’s Footprints
Outside the
palaces, shops were selling Ram Lalla’s photo, replica of Ram Mandir, and
the usual pujan samagri.
Hanuman Garhi
We walked
about 50 m from the palaces and came to Hanuman Garhi. It is believed that Sri
Ram, after his victorious return to Ayodhya, designated this very place to
Hanumanji as his abode; and before Sri Ram took jalsamadhi (water burial) to go to gokul lok (celestial abode), He
entrusted Hanumanji to guard Ayodhya from there. The road leading to Hanuman
Garhi is narrow and twisted, with shops and old, residential buildings on
either side. Very disciplined beggars were sitting on either side of the lane.
We bought sweetmeats to offer at the temple and then came to the line. There
was no line as such. People gathered in clusters with babies in their arms. We
also stood in the cluster. Some invisible force made us stand there, otherwise
both of us are wary of crowds, fearing stampede. From afar, we could see the
temple and people climbing up the steps. It was a Saturday, (Lord Hanuman’s
day) so the crowd was mindboggling. There were 76 steps in all. My husband was
reluctant to go but Pratap Singh assured him, “You will be propelled forward,
so that you won’t have the feeling of climbing. Without even realizing, you
will be before the deity.”
Before Hanuman Garhi
Narrow, winding Lanes leading to Hanuman Garhi
Suddenly we
heard, ‘Jai Shri Ram’. People started moving again. We came near the temple. A
policeman was controlling the crowd by lifting and lowering a railway level-crossing-like
apparatus, a huge bamboo pole. People started pushing. Everybody wanted to go
past that apparatus. As the bamboo came down, the pushing stopped. We climbed a
few steps and then there was a landing. One policeman saw us and asked us to form
another line for senior citizens and children. Then, it became very easy. We
were given priority and in no time, we galloped quickly to the sanctum
sanctorum, housing the beautiful white, idol of Lord Hanuman. People believe
that Lord Hanuman still resides here and guards Ayodhya. Two priests were
taking offerings from both sides and were also giving us prasad. But no time to
stand peacefully. The policeman inside, barked orders and we came out through
another opening and again walked back to the sweet shop, where we had kept our
shoes.
Then, through
the narrow lane, we came to Ram Path, walked past the entrance gate of Ram
Temple and finally reached our car. Everything was indeed in close proximity,
which we did not realize the day before.
The 1990
infamous shooting on unarmed kar sevaks took place in Hanuman Garhi (ordered by
the then chief minister, Mulayam Singh Yadav), where shots were fired on them from
the terrace of temples. People tried to escape through the circuitous, narrow
lanes but they were mercilessly tracked down and killed. The kar sevaks tried
to escape the gunshots and jumped into Sarayu river. Their bodies were never
recovered.
Sarayu and
Ram Ki Paidi
While going
by car to Sarayu, we could see tent cities being built up on its banks to cater
to the large influx of tourists.
We had
already told Pratap Singhji that we will walk the shortest route possible. So,
instead of coming to Ram Ki Paidi through Lata Mangeshkar chowk, we travelled
by car through an ancient, residential area with narrow, winding roads, with
houses rising right from the road itself. The houses were moderate, stand-alone structures, with
an occasional haveli (mansion)juxtaposed in between.
An Ancient Haveli
Close-up of the Haveli
Houses rising from the narrow, clean Road
Pratapji
parked his car at a comparatively wide lane and then walked with us to show us
the actual location. The lanes and by lanes were extremely clean. The road
ended into an open platform with a huge billboard of Lord Hanuman, welcoming
us. Below the billboard is a water body, where water is being pumped into it from
Sarayu river, which in turn flows into Ram ki Paidi, and then again flows back
to Sarayu.
Water Body below the Billboard
Water flowing into Ram Ki Paidi
The sacred Sarayu river stretched from end to end, with enormous bathing ghats. Stone steps led to the river, where people were bathing. Some boats were moored near the river.
The holy Sarayu River and its Ghats
Sarayu Bank
People filling water bottles with the sacred Sarayu Water
Joyful Bathers in the cool, clean Waters of Sarayu
.
But Naya Ghat
in Ram Ki Paidi is spectacular with its red steps and banks. Men, women and
children were bathing joyfully in the clear water with not a care in the world.
It is here that lamps are lit during Diwali, which created Guinness world
record in 2019.There are many ancient temples and buildings in the plaza
opposite to it. One famous temple is Shri Nageshwarnathji, the reigning deity
of Ayodhya, built by Sri Ram’s son Kush. We offered puja at the temple. There
was a great rush but people were in line, and the pujari (priest) was very generous,
with absolutely no greed. Nobody asked us anything in all the temples that we
had visited thus far. There is also a Sanskrit Mahavidyalaya (college) in one haveli . All
the buildings were painted in the same light-orange hue. We saw an ancient
structure made of matchbox-sized bricks. Perhaps it was not dismantled due to
its architectural ingenuity. Near it, was a small Shiv temple with imprint of
ancientness.
Ancient Architectural Marvel
Ancient Shiv
Mandir
A wide View of Ram Ki Paidi 
The Temples along the Shores of Naya Ghat
After
worshipping Nageshwarnathji, we walked all along the plaza of Naya Ghat, with
the Sarayu flowing below, passing shops selling tea and eatables, book stores
selling Ram Charit Manas and other religious books, shops selling pujan
samagri (offering to God) and came near Lata Mangeshkar chowk overlooking a bridge. The most
noticeable feature of the chowk is the huge, decorative veena sculpture,
weighing 14 tonnes.
The Veena Sculpture in
Lata Mangeshkar Chowk as seen from Ram Ki Paidi
Parikrama
Marg
While
travelling by car, we saw multiple signages called ‘Parikrama Marg’. Ayodhya
has three Parikrama Margs:5 kos, which is about 15 kms;14 kos, which is about
42 km, and 84 kos, which is about 275 km. They are all related to Sri Ram and He
did parikrama on these paths. Among these, 84 kos is the most important because
it was started during treta yug which started in 2,163,102 BCE. Parikrama Marg
will be developed in due time and ashrams, rest houses will be built for Sadhus
on pilgrimages. Once a year, during Karthik (October-November) devotees also do
parikrama. Then, bhandaras (kitchen supplying free food) , medical kiosks are set up on the roadside,
so that the pilgrims do not encounter problems and hardships.
On one side of the road, we could see a different image of Sarayu river, stagnant with hyacinths, garbage, debris. Cranes were picking up the garbage. In due time, this part of Sarayu will be developed as Sita Jhil (lake).
Cleaning
up Sarayu River for making Sita Jhil
While on the
road, we could see another portion of Ram Temple, where construction work was
going on.
Local people told us that there was nothing in Ayodhya before. Nobody visited the
town. The places near the sacred Sarayu river stank because it was a place for open defecation. Even natives of Ayodhya could not see Ram Lalla (affectionate term for the infant Sri Ram). It was kept in a
tent and heavily guarded. Pilgrims could only see the tent, not the idol. The
entry to the place was through a very narrow lane and only one person could
enter it at a time. Earlier ,in Ayodhya, there were no industries, no tourism; so,
people mostly worked in private firms or had small shops or businesses in
transport. Amidst the influx of tourists, the existing houses have been remodeled
into hotels. There are many homestays too. But people don’t come to stay here. From
the railway station or airport, they head straight to Ram Mandir to have a
darshan. Only for a night they might avail a homestay to invigorate themselves.
Guptar Ghat
A Boat in Sarayu at Guptar Ghat
Expanse of Sand in the middle of Sarayu bordered by Forests 
Ships moored to the Shore of Sarayu at Guptar Ghat
Expansion of Sarayu River at Guptar Ghat 
Ships anchored in Sarayu at Guptar Ghat
People Travelling in a Boat to the Sand
Peacefulness at Guptar Ghat
Boats, Ships, Sand, Motor Cycles in Sarayu River. Petrol Pump on the Shore
Guptar Ghat
is 10km away from Ayodhya junction. While going to this place the scenery
changed. The hurly-burly of pilgrims was nowhere to be seen; only age-old trees,
songs of birds and spanking new playgrounds and parks.
Finally, we
came to Guptar Ghat which is on the banks of Sarayu river. It is near Ayodhya
military Cantonment. Guptar means secretive. It is here that Sri Ramchandra
took ‘jalsamadhi’.
Another
person was cremated here by about 13 people, 'Gumnami Baba’, who many believe to be
Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose. It is said that except for these two cremations, no
other cremations took place. There are a series of steps leading to the river, but
water has accumulated only near the ghats. The middle of the river is a bed of
sand. Water sports such as jet-skiing was going on. Ships were moored to the
shore or anchored in the water. Some people were going in ships to the sand and
enjoying themselves by having picnics or riding motor cycles. The river is very
long and wide and everything is scrupulously clean: the water, the ghats, the
steps, the plaza. Beyond the river, far away, dense forests bordered the bank. During
monsoons, this river fills up and water reaches up to the steps of the plaza. There is a thatched
hut on the shore which serves as a petrol pump to the ships. A cruise is on the
anvil, from Naya Ghat in Ayodhya to Guptar Ghat.
There were
less than ten people at Guptar Ghat (including us). It is a peaceful treat to
walk on the plaza and soak in the atmosphere. In the 21st century it
is so secluded, so you can imagine its secretiveness thousands of years ago.
Nandigram
Nandigram is 19 km from Ayodhya town. It is from here that Bharat ruled Ayodhya for 14 years in Sri Ram’s absence . He chose this place because it is on the frontiers of Ayodhya, and at the commencement of Vanvas (exile), Sri Ramchandra took soil from here to remind him of his motherland. There is a waterbody here called Bharat Kund, so that Nandigram is also called Bharat Kund. It is in this kund that Bharat took bath for 14 years. There is a temple complex in a very clean, peaceful enclosure. It is called, 'Yogiraj Sri Bharatji Ka Prachin Mandir'(Ancient temple of Sri Bharat, the great ascetic).It was built by King Vikramaditya*. This enclosure houses ,'Ram Bharat Milap Mandir' (temple of Ram and Bharat's meeting) and other temples. In one temple, Sri Ramchandra’s padukas (ancient archetypal footwear) are kept. There is another temple for Bharat where his padukas are kept along with a small replica of Shri Ram’s padukas. It is actually a cave turned into a temple. You have to climb down a few steps to reach the garbh griha. Yogiraj Bharat meditated in this cave. It is here in Nandigram where Bharat struck an arrow at Lord Hanuman. When Bharat was keeping vigil over Ayodhya from Nandigram, then one night, he saw an enormous shape in the sky. Thinking it to be a rakshas (demon), he shot an arrow at it and brought it down. It was actually Lord Hanuman who was returning to Lanka with the sanjeevani medicine to save Lakshman. There is also a tree in this temple complex under which Bharat and Lord Hanuman embraced each other and reconciled. There are temples of Mahadev and Prabhu Hanuman too .
Entrance Gate of 'Yogiraj Shri Bharatji ka Prachin Mandir'
Amba Mata’s Form in a Temple
Ram Bharat Milap Mandir 
Sri Ram’s Padukas in the Temple
Bharat Kund
Yogiraj Bharat’s Padukas and a Replica of Sri Ram’s Padukas.
Yogiraj Bharat in the Garbh Griha
Yogiraj Bharat’s Temple
Cave-like Structure of Bharat Mandir
Badi Devkali Temple
Badi Devkali Mandir
The soothing Lake in the Temple Complex
Sri Sri
Ravishankar had written in TOI and also posted on X handle, his contribution
to the resurrection Devkali Mandir. One day, when he was meditating in his ashram, he saw an
image of a temple in acute ruins, and a pond nearby which was a garbage dump. A
few days later, an elderly Naadi Siddhar from Tamil Nadu visited the ashram and
met Gurudev. As he read the ancient palm leaves, he told Gurudev, “The naadi
leaves also reveal that a temple built for the kula devi (family deity) of Shri
Rama, Devkali, is languishing in severe neglect. Unless it is restored, the
violence and strife surrounding the Ram Temple in Ayodhya will never end.”
Through some contacts, Gurudev made enquiries of Kali temples in Ayodhya. Then
it came to light that there were indeed 2 Kali Mandirs; one was in the heart of
the city called Chhoti Devkali Mandir (where Mata Sita worshipped Parvati,
which she had brought from Janakpur) and the other was known as Devkali Mandir
or Badi Devkali Mandir. Sri Sri Ravishankar asked his volunteers from Delhi and
Lucknow and set about to restore Badi Devkali Mandir and rejuvenate the pond. This
was in 2001.On 19th September,2002 the reconsecration of the temple
was done under the aegis of Gurudev. The temple was restored to its full glory
and the garbage dump became a beautiful jhil. Since then, there have been no
riots in Ayodhya. Sri Sri Ravi Shankar had a premonition that Ram Temple will
be built only after 14 years (from the date of reconsecration of Devkali
Mandir). From 2017, negotiations started and a bloodless verdict was given in
favor of Ram Mandir.
Architecture near the Jhil
Devkali Mata’s Mandir
Another form of Devkali Mata
Lord Hanuman’s Mandir
In 2002, Sri
Sri Ravishankar visited Ayodhya’s sacred sites. He wrote, “The town’s narrow
lanes, litter-strewn paths, and overall lack of hygiene painted a stark picture
of neglect. A sense of fear prevailed among people. Everywhere I went people
would have a tragic story to tell about how many sadhus and saints have been
killed over this long-standing conflict. Nobody would dare to speak up for
these sadhus who had no designated ashrams, no family, no locus standi. It was
heart-rending to hear their tales of woes, stories that never found a place in
the media.”
But now in
2024, Hanuman Garhi, Dashrath Mahal, Kanak Bhavan, Ram path and where ever we
went, were spotlessly clean. There was not a single piece of garbage lying on
the road. Roadside eateries were doing brisk business. All the pujaris were
restrained, content, and were satisfied with just a coin. The polite policemen were ever smiling and helpful but very firm in the dispensation of their duties. Local people
in Ayodhya were courteous, cordial and very composed as if they were guided by
divine light. Nobody spoke in a high tone.
Cleanliness of Ayodhya
Ancient Ruins
Leaving
Ayodhya
The departure
lounge of Maharishi Valmiki International Airport, Ayodhya Dham, was
again a splendid affair. The architecture in red sandstone was modelled
according to Ram Mandir, and inside, on one wall was Sankatmochan Hanuman Ashtak
in a pictorial form. A display board advertised Amitabh Bachchan as an
investor (in Ayodhya) in a seven-star property called Sarayu.
Departure Terminal
Pillars in Temple-Style Architecture
Intricate Designs
Sankatmochan Hanuman Ashtak in Pictures
Kalighat
temple is notorious for its avaricious pandas (guides in religious sites) . I went there in 2007 when it was a laissez faire attitude . A single panda accompanied me and made me buy pujan samagri from his designated shops. The samagri
was costly to a small degree but we had a good darshan and the panda
did not demand anything more.
Since the
past few years, the present government has touted that Kalighat Temple is free
from pandas; walkways, skyways have been built and it has become very
congenial to pilgrims. But in 2022 when my husband and I went, it was a different
game altogether. The pandas operated as gangs. We did not even seek
their help. We asked a lady for the direction and one dhoti-clad, hefty man
started walking with us. We went to buy pujan samagri. Now one more joined him and
guided us to a shop. It was a Saturday, so there was a huge crowd. So, a third figured
out from somewhere and said if we pay 250 rupees, we will have VIP entry. There
were no tickets as such and no policemen. We spotted only one policeman, who
was supervising a road construction. I had put dakshina (monetary offering to God) in the cane
baskets holding the pujan samagri of mine, my daughter’s and my
sister’s, and the man offered to hold them, all the while whispering, “Take
care of your handbag. Thefts are very common here.” When we reached the ‘Garbh
Griha,’ I took the baskets from him and I saw that the dakshina was missing
from all the three baskets. When I countered him, he shouted back at me, “How
will I know?”
Everywhere,
there were pandas and they looked like walking ATMs with hordes of 500
rupees stuck between their fingers. We came back to the shoe counter for our shoes
and the boy charged 20 rupees (without any receipt). I was still very angry at
the dakshina theft. Still, I took out a 100 rupee note to get rid of the
panda and suddenly 3-4 hefty looking pandas surrounded us and
demanded 300 rupees. There was no choice except to give in to their demand. When I narrated the incident to my sister, my brother- in- law said
that they are scared to go to Kalighat and this is true of most local people.
This is the difference in governance. Lakhs of people are going to Ram Mandir everyday from every corner of India : in groups, with tour companies or individually. But everything is streamlined. Policemen are doing their duties. We did not encounter a single panda. But in Kalighat, tolabaji (extortion) is going on rampantly and there is no check.
Jai Shri Ram
Photographs: S.K. Sur and Bulbul Sur
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