Ha Long, Vietnam: Bay of Limestone Karsts, Green Islands on Emerald South China Sea, and Enchanting Grottoes

Ha Long, Vietnam: Bay of Limestone Karsts, Green Islands on Emerald South China Sea, and Enchanting Grottoes

Thang Long was the original name of Hanoi when Ly` Thai To established the capital in the area in 1010. The city is usually referred to Thang Long-Hanoi when its long history is discussed. The name of our hotel in Hanoi was ‘Thang Long Opera’. Thang Long means ‘Rising Dragon’ or ‘Ascending Dragon’. Long means dragon and it is very auspicious in Vietnam.

The journey from Hanoi to Ha Long Bay is about 4 hours depending on the traffic. As we were nearing Ha Long Bay the scenery changed. There were large expanse of water and clenched-fist-like rocks springing up from the earth. The rocks looked raven black under the cloudy sky. The wind was chilly and the scenery suggested that heaven was waiting for us. Beautiful hotels and lodges peeped through lush greenery.

Lodge through greenery

Expanse of Water Bordered by Rocks

Ha Long was essentially a fishing village in ancient times. According to our guide, the history of Ha Long Bay is interesting. There are many versions. Ha long Bay is called the bay of the descending dragon because the islands of Ha Long Bay were formed when a dragon descended from the mountains. Another version is, one day a tornado rose in South China Sea where the fishermen had gone fishing. They prayed to the Sea God to save them from the big rains and storm. A dragon rose from the sea, covered the black clouds and calmed the waves. According to local legends, when Vietnam had just started to develop into a country the people had to fight against invaders. To assist Vietnamese in defending their country, the gods sent a family of dragons. This family of dragons began spitting out jewels and jade. These jewels turned into islands and islets. Magically, numerous rock mountains abruptly appeared in the sea. The invaders’ ships collided against the rocks and were destroyed. After winning the battle, the dragons decided to live in this Bay. The place where the mother dragon descended was called Ha long.

Ha Long Bay is a UNESCO World heritage site and one of the natural wonders of the world. It is in Quang Ninh province in Vietnam. It features thousands of karsts and isles in various shapes and sizes. Most of the islets (1960-2000) are of limestone. In this bay, limestone has gone through millions of years of formation due to the rise and fall of the sea in different conditions and environment. Historical research has shown the presence of prehistoric human beings in this area thousands and thousands of years ago. Ha Long Bay was not mentioned in nautical maps and history books until the late 19^th century when it first appeared on the maritime map of France.

The limestone, monumental islands are topped with thick, tropical rain forests. They stand in a classic fenglin landscape (isolated limestone hills) with heights from 50m to 100 m. Fengcong (clusters of conical peaks) are also seen. Another special feature is the abundance of lakes inside limestone islands. During the Vietnam War many of the channels between the islands were heavily mined by US navy, some of which pose a threat to fishing even day.

The climate was cold in March but generally it has a warm, wet, tropical climate. We got down from our bus and walked to the pier. From there we were transferred to a small speed boat wherein we had to wear life jackets. Then we reached our cruise ship, V’Spirit.

From the deck I had a good view all around. I was astounded with such a profusion of beauty. It’s like lots of Eiffel Towers on a marine expanse. Huge, green rocks spectacularly shot up from the still, aquamarine water at regular intervals and stood as sentinels, as if guarding the fishermen. So the legend was true after all. The rocks were of various shapes and sizes. One was shaped like the rear of an enormous prehistoric animal sitting comfortably after having its fill. Another was shaped like Lord Shiva, complete with the high coiffure on the head.

Riveting Shapes of Towering Karsts

In the afternoon we went in speed boats to a ticket office where our guide booked tickets for our sail in junk boats on South China Sea. There was a mad rush. One large group of about 20 returned from its sojourn and the boat was immediately booked by another group who was ready to pounce on it. In this mad rush we stood close to each other waiting patiently for our turn. Our guide was a quiet man unlike the others and not adept in capturing boats. Some of the global population were in a hurry to embark and disembark so much so, while coming ashore, the whole lot tried to get down at once, tilting the boat, almost toppling it. They screamed in unison, stepping back and the boat again regained its balance. Then our turn arrived. We got up carefully with discipline. Our boat went under the narrow, uneven opening of the grotto and then it was darkness. However, in the faint glow from the exit, we could see stalactites, stalagmites and flowstones on the walls. Again our boat came out from the cavern’s pit to the sky’s underbelly but this time we were rock-locked on all three sides. This watery space was small due to the encroaching karsts-sentinels and also because it was jammed with boats filled with worldwide tourists. The scene was mesmerizing…a bit of sky through the soaring, dark green rocks on all sides, their reflection making the water emerald. There was a fair amount of kayaking too.      

Karst-Locked in South China Sea

In V’Spirit cruise ship, we had a Vietnamese lunch of rice-noodle soup, delicious salad, white rice, vegetable noodles, stir-fried cauliflower and broccoli and the inevitable tofu curry, culminating in dragon fruit and pineapples as dessert. There was ample non-vegetarian cuisine too, in which the centerpiece was baked fish. After lunch, we went on a trip to an island. The climate was pleasant; the afternoon warmth had replaced the morning chilliness. We wore life jackets as we settled in a boat. After a very short travel the boat moored on the shore and we had to climb a bit uphill, footslogging through sand that has been washed to a snowy white by the tide. Then we reached the crescent-shaped islet, called Ti Top Island named after a Russian cosmonaut Gherman S.Titov. It is also the view point in the entire Ha Long Bay. In November 22, 1962, this tiny island had the honor of receiving a visit from Titov, a hero of the former Soviet Union, accompanied by president Ho Chi Minh. To commemorate this visit, Ho Chi Minh named the place Ti Top Island.

 After walking a few paces we came across a huge statue of Gherman Titov, which was more of a photo stop. As usual, the island was crowded with people from all over the globe.

Then we walked past the statue and came to a point where we had to climb about 400 steps to reach the summit of Ti Top mountain, where there is an  observation deck to see the sunset and also a 360 degree view of Ha Long Bay. The steps were irregular, not steps as such but stone blocks of various sizes arranged as steps. The staircase was very narrow .On one side was a dense, hill forest bordering a deep gorge; on another side was a green hill .This side was secured by strong ropes. The entry and exit points were one and through this narrow path a constant stream of tourists were ascending and descending in a very organized, quiet, manner. After climbing for about ten minutes, I gave up. I came to a platform from where I got a panoptic view of the surroundings and also the sunset. The scene from here too was out of this world. So you can imagine what awaits intrepid travelers who reach the top. But there was still more to climb.  One foreign lady, coming down the steps, informed me, “Too long. Ten minutes more.” The path was narrower and it had become conical indicating the peak. The climbing down was easy .On a ledge at the basement were stone stools around a low, stone table. There were refreshment stands selling green coconuts. Facilities were also there.

Sunset from Ti Top Mountain

The return to V’Spirit was again by the speed boat. On the deck of our V’Spirit cruise ship, tea was served to us accompanied by biscuits, tiny, juicy oranges and chenet, a small fruit like litchi and very sweet.

There were floating villages in the sea and also floating markets. Residents of the bay mostly live on boats/floating houses and rafts to facilitate fishing, cultivating and breeding of aquatic and marine species. A community of around 1,600 people lives on Ha Long Bay in 4 fishing villages. Their main occupation is fishing and marine aqua culture. While we were relaxing on the deck and in the open lounge, a lady came in a small boat selling chips and colas. For supper, the menu was more or less the same except that there were special spring roles. The lights suddenly went out and in came an illuminated pineapple with its inside cored, and resting within it were crispy spring rolls. The illumination was due to the flame within it. While having food we could see through our dining room glass window, the limestone rocks silent and seductive in the dark.

The next morning at six there was a Tai Chi class for us on the sun deck .The riveting rocks looked Oxford grey in the dawn. The wind was cold. Our Tai Chi master played soft, oriental music and signaled us to be silent while doing the exercises as if he were performing heavenly rituals. Then the sun rose from behind the rocks. The scene was celestial; the charcoal grey rocks covered in a golden halo and the iron blue water turning blonde.

Sunrise from the Sun Deck of V’Spirit and Tai Chi Class

After an early breakfast we set out to explore the caves. It was just 7:30 a.m. We sat in speed boats and headed towards the grotto called Sung Sot cave or Surprise cave. It is on Bo Hon Island and was discovered by the French in 1901 who named it “Grotto des surprises” (grotto of surprise).It is one of the most spectacular, widest and largest Karsts caves in Ha long Bay. We got our tickets and then we entered the stony, rocky environs. We climbed up stone steps to reach a platform. We walked for sometime and then sat on rock benches or paved high stones under rock ledges to gather our breath. The scene was as crowded as any other touristy place with global populace. There was a small loggia-type platform on one level from where the view of Ha Long Bay was exhilarating.

Way to Sung Sot Cave

The path to Sung Sot cave is quite steep and lined with shady trees. From the wharf, there are many steep, stone stairs leading up to the cavern which is about 25m above sea level. Then the stage came to enter the cave. We climbed down about ten stone steps and came to the mouth of the grotto. This limestone cave occupies around 10,000 square meters and comprises of two vast caverns. As we entered the cave we came across an undulating stretch where there was a small conical gap with a signboard ‘Way to heaven’. Above was the vault of rocks but there were tiny chinks through which natural light filtered through. The interior of the cave was well lit. The stylish lights were silvery and yellow of various degrees creating the right atmosphere, making the interiors mysteriously beautiful with its play of light and shade in the brightly-lit and dimly-lit areas. 

Play of Light and Shade in the Cave

Dragon on the wall

This first chamber is known as the waiting room. At about 30 meters high it provides a grand entrance to the larger, second chamber reached by a narrow path. An enormous space surprises you with its surreal decorations of magnificent stalactites, stalagmites and columns formed through millions of years. This inner chamber is known as the serene castle. Many stalactites hung from the high ceiling with numerous possible forms and shapes. The roof is decorated with various natural designs but they looked as if carved by human hands. Shawls, straws, flowstones, helictites, cave corals, dogtooth spar, cave pearls, lily pads (shelf stones) are seen a plenty in this cave, taking various shapes and sizes .It depends on the imagination for their interpretation. Such natural phenomena of rain, wear and tear, have created on the wall, an open-mouthed dragon in a running pose.

The walls of this chamber too generate a variety of hues that blend with the setting of the area.

Breathtaking Natural Phenomenon with Sunlight Filtering in through an Opening

Columns or pillars developing from stalactites and stalagmites extended from the floor to the roof. The floor was full of hollows and stones, rise and fall pavements and protuberances; so we had to walk slowly. After walking through very narrow strips on several such undulations we came to the exit. We climbed up the irregular steps bordered by thick foliage into the open air and under the blue sky. There was no dearth of facilities even in the cave premises.  

Splendorous Designs in the Cave

We walked past souvenir shops, climbed down steep, stone steps to the waterfront and boarded our speed boat. We came to V’ Spirit where a delicious vegetarian and non vegetarian lunch awaited us. The rice had an Indian touch with ample fried peanuts to accompany it. After lunch we had our cooking class. Each one of us was given thin rice sheets and julienned carrots, onions, lettuce etc. We learnt the art of making spring rolls and then ate them up. They tasted all the more better because of our personal touch.  

The journey back to Hanoi was mundane as the emerald and white South China Sea dotted with stand-alone, lofty islands and snow-white cruise ships was receding and the road was lined by massive commercialization with hotels and buildings coming up at a fast pace. However, all this was far away from the unspoiled gorgeousness of Ha Long Bay. Its exquisiteness attracts tourists in droves. This massive surge in tourism has improved the life of the locals to a vast extent.      

Au Revoir Ha Long Bay

                                                    Photographs : Bulbul Sur                   

Tags: Vietnam, Ha Long Bay, South China Sea, Limestone Karsts, Ti Top Island, Sung Sot Cave