A Cliff-Cut City : Little Petra, Jordan

A Sphinx-Like Structure on the Way to Little Petra

The way to Little Petra was through buff yellow-colored mountains with deep valleys in-between. There were strange shapes on the mountain facades which were perhaps carving done by the Nabataeans. Frequently, mirages in the sandy desert were also visible.

Mountains and Valleys on the Way to Little Petra

Carving on the Cliffs

Siq al-Barid is just a 10 minutes’ drive northwards from Petra. It was an important suburb to the original site of ancient Petra. It is called Little Petra because of its similarities to Petra. The site includes tombs, temple, water channels and cisterns carved out of the rock, as well as remains of frescoes on plaster.

Structures on Mountain Tops

Distinctive Geological Features of the Cliffs 

Great Antiquity

Little Petra is one of the most important places of Beidha Neolithic village and it is presumed to have been occupied from 7200 BC to 6500 BC which makes it one of the first settled villages in human history.

In the site of Little Petra many religious activities were held during classical antiquity, including The Feast of Drink when the king of the Nabataeans hosted celebrations and provided drinks for his guests.

Siq al-Barid also showcases the highly sophisticated and modern technology of Hydraulics during ancient times. There are cisterns to be seen at Little Petra and also a pipeline system to transport water. The pipes were made of clay and the pipeline system ensured a constant water supply. The well-constructed underground cisterns are still in use and they were hidden underground away from the evil eyes of invaders and strangers. So, in spite of the fact that Petra lay in a dry canyon, there was a constant water supply because the Nabataeans ensured that there was  maximum flow rates and minimum leakage. This system also utilized particle-settling basins to purify their potable water. They created an oasis in the dry canyon and there is no archaeological evidence of any drought in the area.

Cisterns of Great Antiquity in The Governor's House

Salient Features

At Petra, in order to reach Al-Khazneh, we had to walk the entire length of the Siq but at Little Petra there is hardly any walking. The parking place of the vehicles is just opposite to this archaeological site. 

The Parking Area between Ancient Cliffs 

The Many Facets of the Cliffs

In ancient times, on a given day, a caravan of 2,500 camels, forming a line of 5 miles long across the desert, carried heavy load of incense, spices and perfumes to trade in Petra. The Nabataeans passed with their camel trains through the Spice Route which stretched from Persian Gulf(Arabia), to the ports of Gaza, passing through Petra, their capital,(which was also used as a stopover) and Avdat (Ancient Nabataean city in Israel).         

The Ancient Tax Collecting Office  in Little Petra Archaeological Courtyard

The camels used to report to the king with treasures at Al-Khazneh/The Treasury. Since the Siq was very narrow, the camels could pass only one at a time and there would be a huge line. Hence, it was decided that only the king’s camels could pass through it and the rest of the camels would be lodged elsewhere. So Little Petra was allocated to be a resting place for camels. It is also entered through an opening like the Siq but here the distance is minimal and the opening is a bit wider and on a smaller scale. 

The Entrance to the Ancient Complex

A Side View of the Opening

 

An Aerial View of the Opening

There is a structure carved from the rock which has a window-like counter. During Nabataean era this was the office where the entry and exit of the camels were registered and taxes were collected. Opposite to this office-building, there is a tall structure also carved from the cliff, looking somewhat like the Treasury (Al-Khazneh) but smaller. This was the residence of the governor/ in-charge of the area. Below this edifice is a dark and cavernous, large cave. This was supposedly the hidden cistern in the governor's house. Another source says it might have been the kitchen.  This basement has three, gaping door-like holes which perhaps served as entry points from outside. The governor’s house upstairs could be reached by a flight of steps sculpted out from the rocks.

The Ancient Registration And Tax Collecting Office

A Close-up View of the Tax Collecting Office

The Governor's House 

The Steps Leading to The Governor's House

Little Petra Now

By the middle of the 7^th century, Petra was largely abandoned and the local Bedouins encroached upon the area and set up their colony until it was rediscovered by a Swiss explorer, Johann Ludwig Burckhardt in 1812. The government realized its archaeological and tourism value and decided to develop it but the Bedouins refused to leave. So the government offered each family a free house, free water and free electricity and set up their habitation in Little Petra. The Bedouins left the area of Ancient Petra and settled down in Little Petra, with the stipulation that the entire commercial activities in Petra Archaeological Park will be done by the Bedouins. So all the shops on the road to the Treasury, in the Treasury and in Little Petra are run by them. The horse carriages (where only 2 can sit), the battery-operated vehicles are also operated by them.

The town of Little Petra is characterless with single-storied tenements, a few double-storied buildings and shops by the side of the road .Donkeys or mules were perhaps revered as cows in India because I saw some food was left on the porch of a shop and a mule was feeding on it. The natural beauty with mountains and valleys is spectacular but other than that there is hardly any greenery. The trees on the dividers were dusty and not too eye catching.

Souvenir Shops operated by Bedouins in Little Petra

    Photographs: Bulbul Sur

Tags: Little Petra, Siq al-Barid ,Governor's House, Tax Collection Office, Bedouins                  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                      Magic, Marvels and Mastery of Rose Metropolis

Nabataeans, Petra’s Ancient Dwellers

Petra's Panorama

The modern Petra city is not spectacular. The houses and buildings are of the same color as the buff-yellow mountains. Hardly a few had architectural beauty. But in spite of scanty vegetation, the geographical beauty is astounding because of the looming hills.

However, the old Petra city is a unique place where natural and geological features merge with its history, archaeology and ethos. UNESCO described The Rose Metropolis, Petra as “One of the most precious cultural properties of man’s cultural heritage.” The ancient name of Petra was Raqmu/Raqemu. Petra means stone in ancient Greek.

Petra Archaeological Park (PAP) with an area of 264,000 square meters within Wadi Musa is a tourist, archaeological and a World Heritage Site since 1985. It is 810 m (2,657 ft.) above sea level. The directorate of Cultural Sources has carried out about 22 archaeological excavations in Petra and Beidha. These were done by American, French, Finland Missions, Italy, Germany, and Swiss Expeditions among others. Only five percent of the city has been uncovered through excavations so far. Many mysteries still remain to be discovered.

 PDTRA (Petra Development and Tourism Regional Authority) was established in 2009 to control the entire Petra region which is 755 square km in area .PDTRA is headed by a Chief Commissioner who reports directly to the Prime Minister. The site is included in the Smithsonian Magazine among ‘the 28 places you should visit before you die.’           

Location

Petra is located 240 km south of Amman, (capital of Jordan) and 120 km. north of the Red Sea town of Aqaba.

The Ancient City of Petra

The exact date of the city’s origin is unknown but it became famous as the capital of the Nabataean Empire from the first century BC when the nomadic Nabataean Arabs became prosperous traders. About 2000 years ago a desert city called Petra was founded by the Nabataeans, a group of nomadic Arabs tending cattle and therefore had to move from place to place to find pastures for their sheep, goats and camels. They lived in goatskin tents and survived in the deserts due to their acumen and advanced knowledge in hydraulics. They were the only people who could cross the Arabian desert because they knew how to tame it.  They were skilled in agriculture, harvesting rain water, damming systems and stone carving and they exploited these skills to their fullest.  Though the region was watered by a perennial stream yet it is located in a dry canyon and the arid climate created agricultural difficulties for them. But they knew the desert's secret i.e. water spots  hidden in the desert and they unearthed them. They had a thorough knowledge of every possible source of water available to them and hence harvested rainwater, flood water, ground water and natural springs. They shaped rocks into ledges to collect the initial flow of water from the mountains. They also constructed underground water holes or cisterns to collect the run-off rain water. The cisterns were lined with water-proof cement to prevent seepage. They chiseled channels/aqueducts into the sides of the mountain, trailing the water flow into cisterns and dams for later usage. 

Ancient Aqueduct 
Photo: Dr:Erwin Schwentner, wikimedia commons

Hidden underground, the water was safe in the cisterns from evaporation and from enemies who did not even know of their existence; hence could not poison the water. Those cisterns built 2000 years ago are still being used by Bedouins.

Water Holes Built by Nabataeans
Photo: Supplied

The Nabataeans made rock-cut channels and underground water pipes which carried water from permanent springs and seasonal streams. The water was supplied to the inhabitants through clay/ terracotta pipes.

A Portion of Ancient Stonemasonry to Collect Initial Water Flow From Mountains

Transformation from Pastoralists to Commercial Traders

Having solved their water problem they utilized this water to increase their wealth .Those nomadic farmers and herders soon became wealthy desert merchants by investing in Petra’s closeness to trade routes. The important trade routes that moved spices and incense from Arabia to Egypt and the Mediterranean Sea    had Petra as a main stopping point for Nabataean as well as foreign traders. The route was called Spice Route because spices were the most common of all the items. The traders also carried textile, silks, perfumes like frankincense and myrrh, wood, gems, herbs, medicines, metals, ivory and other precious goods grown or manufactured in Arabia, Asia and Africa. The Nabataeans also procured asphalt from the Dead Sea and sold it to Egypt who used it for mummification, coffin-sealing and glue. The nomadic Nabataean provided those traders shelter and water along the trade routes. In those ancient times the Nabataeans charged toll tax to foreign traders passing through their territory. The Nabataeans set up military camps and forts along the Spice Route which not only served as a stopping point on their journey but also a protection from highway robbers along the way. They had built many such camps . They even became mediators of the products that were traded. Thus having known the secrets of the desert and exploiting them, they became wealthy traders monopolizing the spice trade route and the market for centuries. From originally being pastoralist people they became commercial nomads from the Arabian peninsula. 

As the nomadic traders became wealthy in this way they built a spectacular city of Petra full of fertile crops, lush gardens and public pools .During its pinnacle, the Nabataean Empire included regions of modern-day Jordan, Israel, Egypt, Syria and north-western Saudi Arabia. Petra rose to pre-eminence also because of its geographical features. Besides controlling the main commercial routes, it lay within the enclosure of towering rocks thus making the whole place fortress-like and safe from enemy invasion.

Master Builders

As the people of Petra became rich they spent their wealth to showcase their craftsmanship. They carved tombs, monuments and houses into the rose-red sandstone cliffs/rocks, covered them with decorative stucco and painted them with bright colors. They not only carved buildings, but winding roads, stairways and water channels were also carved along the natural bends and cambers, the rise and dip of the rocks and canyons.

The Nabataeans carved sophisticated tombs out of the mountain sides and buried their dead in them. The Al-Khazneh (The Treasury) is an epitome of their carving prowess.

The Treasury/Al-Khazneh

 Beside the Treasury a narrow path leads to a maze of archaeological marvels: tombs, gardens, temples, colonnaded roads etc.  The Nabataeans also had a flair for music and drama as can be seen in the Roman-theater-like structure. They carved it out from the rocks long before the Romans annexed Petra. The theater is shaped like a semi-circle and it has marble-covered seats for up to 8,500 people. There is a colonnaded street and it is straight unlike the snaky, steep roads elsewhere in the ancient city due to natural hills and valleys.

The Theater
Photo: David Bjorgen, wikimedia commons

The Obelisk Tomb
Photo: Supplied

There is a huge garden pool among those bygone, architectural wonders. Though Petra received only 6 inches of rainfall per year yet the existence of a public garden pool showed how efficiently they managed water.

The Snaky Road due to Geographical Features

The Straight Road
Photo: Supplied

Foreign traders passed through Petra and the city soon became a global hub of the ancient world. The Nabataeans traded items from India, Thailand, China, Korea and Southern Arabia. The Nabataeans knew about elephants through their trade with India. Hence the Great Temple’s 120 towering columns are topped with elephant heads carved in stone. In 500 AD the Petra Church was built which is eye catching with massive columns, colorful mosaics made with stone, glass, red clay tiles and even gold-plated tiles. The magnificent temple of the winged lion and the beautifully-carved monastery (Ad-Deir/El–Deir) are other everlasting creations of Nabataeans.  All those wonders were constructed within a span of 400 years.   

The Monastery
Photo: David Bjorgen, wikimedia commons

Elephant Head on the Great Temple's Columns
Photo: David Bjorgen, wikimedia commons

The Temple of the Winged Lion
Photo: Bernard Gagnon, wikimedia commons

Decline of Petra

The Roman Empire was first a client of Petra’s Nabataean merchants. In 106 AD, Romans annexed Petra and called it Arabia Petraea. Petra became a Roman province under a Roman governor. The takeover was peaceful and the Romans left an indelible mark on the architecture of Petra .They ruled Petra for 300 years and then changed their trade routes to the north. Petra started losing its importance in trading circuits.

Towards late 300 AD, Roman rule over Petra collapsed. A large earthquake in 363 AD destroyed much of the city. Moreover, the prosperity of the Nabataeans also declined because of changes in trade routes. New sea routes emerged and land routes were no longer used. Traders started doing business by  sea. Many of the items were brought to Arabia by sea and when they reached Gaza they were sent to Rome again by sea. Then in early 600 AD Muslim Arabs arrived in Petra and Petra came under Islamic rule. By the middle of the 7^th century Petra seemed to be largely abandoned and the local Bedouins took over the area. In AD 1812, a Swiss explorer, Johann Ludwig Burckhardt rediscovered Petra. In 1993 AD Petra became a national park, a protected archaeological site.  Now this site of Petra is inhabited by Bedouins.

On our return journey to the hotel at late afternoon, we stopped to watch a tribal performance in the courtyard of Petra Archaeological Park.

 

                    

Video: Supplied

Photographs: Bulbul Sur

Tags: Nabataeans, Spice Route, Water Harvesting, Ancient Petra

                                                            Petra by Morning

The Siq and Al-Khazneh

 

The Siq (Shaft)

The Siq through which we dramatically entered the ancient city of Petra is a natural wonder. It is a labyrinthine gorge, 1.2 km long which ends at Al-Khazneh or the Treasury.

Tourists approach the Siq through the  east. It is dark and narrow and in some places it is only 3-4 m (10-13 ft.) wide.  This geological wonder is formed by a deep cleft in the sandstone rock, starting right from the top through to the bottom. It serves as a waterway to Wadi Musa.

The Journey through the Siq Has Just Begun

The Tapering of  the Rocks

The Cleft becomes Slimmer

In ancient times,the caravan drivers knew of their close proximity to Petra city as soon as they entered the  slim,curvy Siq; its walls made up of  rough,sharp, protruding rocks,rock-cut water channels and clay pipes.Through these channels and pipes the Nabataeans used to control the flow of water in and out of the city.

2000-year-Old Clay Pipes Etched on the Cliff

Water Channels Cut against the Rock

A Platform Carved on the Cliff for the Weary

Al-Khazneh (The Treasury)

A Slight Sighting of the Treasury

A Broader Glimpse of Al-Khazneh through the Split

The Within-Reach  Treasury

Finally,Magnificent Al-Khazneh

We again went to the same place the next morning (starting point of our Petra by Night walk) and set out for a view of Al-Khazneh in battery-operated vehicles (6 persons per vehicle). The driver of our cart was very friendly and talked about India. There were camel and mule rides .Camels,donkeys and humans thronged the area. The roadside,dark,deserted sheds of the previous night were now transformed into colorful shops selling Jordanian souvenirs. The huge, shadowy mountains the night before were in reality towering rocks glowing in the afternoon light to a vivid garnet.

The Mountain-like Rocks on the Way

 The path did not seem treacherous as we struggled to maintain our balance (in the cart) on the bumpy road. When we started off the pinkish-brown rocks were a little far but as we neared the Treasury, the mountain-like rocks closed in on us until we could just view a glimpse of Al-Khazneh from a fissure in the huge rocks.

Elephant Faces Carved on the Cliff

Legends

The monument came to be known as Al-Khazneh in the early 19^th century by the local residents, the Bedouins, who believed that it contained treasures. The rumor was due to the Funerary Urn which crowned the monument.

The reason for this belief is some legends. According to one local legend this urn contained Pharaoh’s treasure and that it functioned as Pharaoh’s treasury during the time of Moses. It is said that while chasing Moses, Pharaoh and some of his soldiers escaped from the wrath of the Red Sea. The Pharaoh created the monument by magic and hid his treasures there and again set forth to pursue Moses. So it came to be known as Khaznet el-Far’oun or Treasury of the Pharaoh.

Another legend says that pirates hid their stolen wealth in the urn. The Bedouins believed such folklore and shot at the urn in the early 20^th century with the hope that the urn would break open and treasures would spill out and they would capture the wealth. But the effort was futile because the urn is built of solid sandstone. In reality, the urn represented a royal memorial. The downside of the Bedouins’ misadventure was the façade of Al-Khazneh is defaced by numerous bullet holes.

The Urn Defaced by Bullets
photo:David Bjorgen commons.wikimedia,org

Description

Petra is famous for its rock-cut architecture and the crowning glory is Al Khazneh.

In the first century AD, Petra’s population was the highest at 20,000.It was at that time that the Al-Khazneh structure was constructed. It is believed to be the Mausoleum of Nabataean King, Aretas IV. In 2007, Al Khazneh was voted as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.

The Six Columns and the Door of the Central Chamber

The monument is 39.1 meters high and 25.30 meters wide. It is a living proof of the craftsmanship of the Nabataeans and speaks volumes about their engineering prowess. They had carved the monument on the sandstone rock and embellished it with Corinthian columns which are topped with elaborate capitals, friezes and figures. The entire monument is supported by the cliff from which it was carved.Out of the six columns, the outer four are implanted in the rock while the two central columns are freestanding (not attached to a supporting background).  The Treasury consists of two floors and three chambers. The middle chamber is flanked by two antechambers on either side. Some archaeologists believed it to be a temple because archaeologists have found bowls with incense sticks and offering to Gods which suggest that it was a place of worship; while another section conjectured it to be a store house for documents.But the most recent excavation has unearthed a graveyard beneath the treasury.

A Peek at the Door of the Antechamber

Opposite to the Treasury, there was a rock mountain on which about 50 steps were carved, which enabled intrepid tourists to climb up them and reach its pinnacle. The mountains in Petra were of red sandstone and when the setting sun fell on it, they turned rosy. So Petra is called the Rose City/Rose-Red city. The rocks changes color according to the movement of the  sun. It’s indeed astounding to imagine the skillfulness of the ancient Nabataeans who carved such monuments on the pink-hued rock mountains 2000 years ago.

That the Treasury was a Mausoleum and a crypt is evident from the carvings done on the façade. These sculptures are mythological figures associated with life and death. One among them is the carving of four eagles on the top facade which signifies that they would carry away the souls of the departed.

Carving on the Frontage of Al-Khazneh
Photo:Bernard Gagnon Commons. wikimedia.org

A Chamber Just Adjacent to the Treasury

The interior of the Treasury was guarded off, preventing the visitors from entering it because the tourists had earlier defaced the interiors with graffiti. Inside the Treasury is a large chamber with a high ceiling with two smaller rooms and massive steps.

There were shops galore in the complex of Al-Khazneh, run by Bedouins who sold jewelry, magnets,lamps and the usual souvenirs. By the side of the Treasury there was a narrow lane which led to the Monastery and other thousand -year- old archaeological/historical sites.

The Slender Lane leading to More Archaeological Wonders

Due to the pandemic, Covid 19, tourism has stopped. Taking advantage of the isolation, the Jordanian government has authorized excavations in front of the Treasury because according to sources only five percent has been excavated so far and there are many more wonders still to be unearthed.

Garnet-Colored Rocks on the Way 

 Bright in the Afternoon Sun 

Rose-Red Rocks in the Setting Sun

Photographs: Bulbul Sur

Tags: Rose Red City,Petra,Treasury,Clay Pipes,Water Channels, Nabataeans 

Petra by Night

 

Al-Khazneh at Night

                                                    Petra by Night

At 7:30 p.m. we set out to see Petra by Night. We wore woolens, caps, socks because Petra was cold. We sat in the bus and set out from our hotel Seven Wonders. After a short drive we got down at the parking area which was jam-packed with tourist buses. From there we climbed down a flight of about 20 wide steps and came into the precincts of Petra Museum which led to the checking gate .The checking was detailed as in airports. Our bags went under a scanner. Then we entered the expansive courtyard of Petra Archaeological Park .On one side were facilities and on another side was an auditorium-like seating arrangement. At another end, shopkeepers were selling souvenirs of Petra, fridge magnets, shawls etc. We climbed down a flight of few steps, walked all the way (which was a short distance), until we reached the point from where the walking started. It was 8:30 p.m.

The moon was just a slim arrow .On both sides were dark mountains, looking huge and mysterious in the shadow and some had caves within them. The road was lit with candles in oilpaper-like bags. One side of the packets was tied so that it looked like rows of lighted, irregular, white stones. As we walked on the dark road we could see a portion of the lighted city of Petra on the mountain top. The crowd was stupendous and we could not see each other’s face in the dim light. The problem was I did not bring a torch. Of course there was enough space to walk and no bumping or crowding against each other in spite of the immense cluster of tourists. The road was stony and knobbly; I could just feel it because the darkness prevented me from seeing the reason behind my uneven steps. The mountains were closing in on both sides as we were advancing forward. There were some intermittent, thatched houses but they were dark and vacant. A guard cropped up here and there. Sometimes the candles burned brightly and in the faint light I could recognize my group members. There were sound of music, cheeping of birds and refreshing, relaxing reverberation of waterfall coming out from the mountains; as if somebody was hiding in the grottoes of the rocks and playing music and a spring was hidden in the dark crannies of the mountains; as if dawn was about to break and the trilling of birds was heralding its approach but then there was only darkness and silhouettes of people.

A Thousand Candles Floating Before The Treasury 

Gradually, the narrow path between the huge mountains became bumpier and I was afraid that I might fall down on the rutted path because now the pebbles seemed larger .Somehow, after walking for more than a km. we reached our destination—The Treasury or Al Khazneh, all blue because it was bathed in a blue light with innumerable candles lighted before it and surrounded by dark heads of tourists.

The Immense ,Orderly Global Populace

The  Lit Candles in Bags 

 Local musicians played mystical, soulful tunes on their flutes and other musical instruments. The music was such that it suited the atmosphere –pride at the old culture and a little sadness that it had vanished, that everything is so transitory. Two of my fellow travelers and I were at a loss. After travelling in the darkness for so long we were blinded by so much light. Some, probably volunteers, told us to sit down on the ground. When we declined they held us very tenderly, addressing us as 'Dear' and   made us sit on the patio of the Treasury. Candles were burning there too and I was sitting next to one. So I took the opportunity and inspected the candle. It was just an ordinary one ,burning ordinarily in a oilpaper-like bag but the overall impact was magical. We sat there for a short while, resting and immersing myself in the soulful music. The function ended soon enough and hordes of people accompanied us on our way back. Now that the path was known, it did not seem so dangerous when we were sure that there were no potholes and hairpin bends which would hurl us into gorges. The mountains on either side which not so long ago were echoing with the cheeps, music and cascade of water were now silent. Now we could see slim platforms along the edges of the rocks and we sat for some time. A few people lit torches to locate their partners. Small children walked along. The weather was cold at the start of the walk but while coming back we were feeling hot with our sweaters, shawls and mufflers. On the way we sat on a wide platform near a policeman. When he came to know we were from India, he asked us about Indira Gandhi.

Mysterious in a Different Shade of Blue

The way of return was again along the same path, past the museum and back to our bus for the return journey to our hotel. The walk was tiring no doubt but the experience was mesmeric. Al-Khazneh bathed in electric-blue light,framed against impenetrable darkness; more than a thousand candles twinkling on our path,as if yellow stars have descended on the earth are sights which can hardly be replicated and will not be forgotten easily.      

The Lighted Al-Khazneh against the Dark Mountain

Important Facts

The site is lit up by 1,500 candles. Two-hour tours from the Siq to the Treasury are organized every Monday, Wednesday and Thursday, starting at 8:30 p.m. and ending at 22.30 p.m. The tour starts from Petra Visitor Center and delivers you back by a licensed guide to the Visitor Center. Rugs are laid out on the ground before the Treasury and visitors enjoy a 20 minute show with music. 

The Treasury in Candle Light

Photographs:supplied

Tags: Night, Petra, Al-Khazneh,Treasury, Siq, Petra Visitor Center.