Petra by Night

 

Al-Khazneh at Night

                                                    Petra by Night

At 7:30 p.m. we set out to see Petra by Night. We wore woolens, caps, socks because Petra was cold. We sat in the bus and set out from our hotel Seven Wonders. After a short drive we got down at the parking area which was jam-packed with tourist buses. From there we climbed down a flight of about 20 wide steps and came into the precincts of Petra Museum which led to the checking gate .The checking was detailed as in airports. Our bags went under a scanner. Then we entered the expansive courtyard of Petra Archaeological Park .On one side were facilities and on another side was an auditorium-like seating arrangement. At another end, shopkeepers were selling souvenirs of Petra, fridge magnets, shawls etc. We climbed down a flight of few steps, walked all the way (which was a short distance), until we reached the point from where the walking started. It was 8:30 p.m.

The moon was just a slim arrow .On both sides were dark mountains, looking huge and mysterious in the shadow and some had caves within them. The road was lit with candles in oilpaper-like bags. One side of the packets was tied so that it looked like rows of lighted, irregular, white stones. As we walked on the dark road we could see a portion of the lighted city of Petra on the mountain top. The crowd was stupendous and we could not see each other’s face in the dim light. The problem was I did not bring a torch. Of course there was enough space to walk and no bumping or crowding against each other in spite of the immense cluster of tourists. The road was stony and knobbly; I could just feel it because the darkness prevented me from seeing the reason behind my uneven steps. The mountains were closing in on both sides as we were advancing forward. There were some intermittent, thatched houses but they were dark and vacant. A guard cropped up here and there. Sometimes the candles burned brightly and in the faint light I could recognize my group members. There were sound of music, cheeping of birds and refreshing, relaxing reverberation of waterfall coming out from the mountains; as if somebody was hiding in the grottoes of the rocks and playing music and a spring was hidden in the dark crannies of the mountains; as if dawn was about to break and the trilling of birds was heralding its approach but then there was only darkness and silhouettes of people.

A Thousand Candles Floating Before The Treasury 

Gradually, the narrow path between the huge mountains became bumpier and I was afraid that I might fall down on the rutted path because now the pebbles seemed larger .Somehow, after walking for more than a km. we reached our destination—The Treasury or Al Khazneh, all blue because it was bathed in a blue light with innumerable candles lighted before it and surrounded by dark heads of tourists.

The Immense ,Orderly Global Populace

The  Lit Candles in Bags 

 Local musicians played mystical, soulful tunes on their flutes and other musical instruments. The music was such that it suited the atmosphere –pride at the old culture and a little sadness that it had vanished, that everything is so transitory. Two of my fellow travelers and I were at a loss. After travelling in the darkness for so long we were blinded by so much light. Some, probably volunteers, told us to sit down on the ground. When we declined they held us very tenderly, addressing us as 'Dear' and   made us sit on the patio of the Treasury. Candles were burning there too and I was sitting next to one. So I took the opportunity and inspected the candle. It was just an ordinary one ,burning ordinarily in a oilpaper-like bag but the overall impact was magical. We sat there for a short while, resting and immersing myself in the soulful music. The function ended soon enough and hordes of people accompanied us on our way back. Now that the path was known, it did not seem so dangerous when we were sure that there were no potholes and hairpin bends which would hurl us into gorges. The mountains on either side which not so long ago were echoing with the cheeps, music and cascade of water were now silent. Now we could see slim platforms along the edges of the rocks and we sat for some time. A few people lit torches to locate their partners. Small children walked along. The weather was cold at the start of the walk but while coming back we were feeling hot with our sweaters, shawls and mufflers. On the way we sat on a wide platform near a policeman. When he came to know we were from India, he asked us about Indira Gandhi.

Mysterious in a Different Shade of Blue

The way of return was again along the same path, past the museum and back to our bus for the return journey to our hotel. The walk was tiring no doubt but the experience was mesmeric. Al-Khazneh bathed in electric-blue light,framed against impenetrable darkness; more than a thousand candles twinkling on our path,as if yellow stars have descended on the earth are sights which can hardly be replicated and will not be forgotten easily.      

The Lighted Al-Khazneh against the Dark Mountain

Important Facts

The site is lit up by 1,500 candles. Two-hour tours from the Siq to the Treasury are organized every Monday, Wednesday and Thursday, starting at 8:30 p.m. and ending at 22.30 p.m. The tour starts from Petra Visitor Center and delivers you back by a licensed guide to the Visitor Center. Rugs are laid out on the ground before the Treasury and visitors enjoy a 20 minute show with music. 

The Treasury in Candle Light

Photographs:supplied

Tags: Night, Petra, Al-Khazneh,Treasury, Siq, Petra Visitor Center.