Petra by Morning

The Siq and Al-Khazneh

 

The Siq (Shaft)

The Siq through which we dramatically entered the ancient city of Petra is a natural wonder. It is a labyrinthine gorge, 1.2 km long which ends at Al-Khazneh or the Treasury.

Tourists approach the Siq through the  east. It is dark and narrow and in some places it is only 3-4 m (10-13 ft.) wide.  This geological wonder is formed by a deep cleft in the sandstone rock, starting right from the top through to the bottom. It serves as a waterway to Wadi Musa.

The Journey through the Siq Has Just Begun

The Tapering of  the Rocks

The Cleft becomes Slimmer

In ancient times,the caravan drivers knew of their close proximity to Petra city as soon as they entered the  slim,curvy Siq; its walls made up of  rough,sharp, protruding rocks,rock-cut water channels and clay pipes.Through these channels and pipes the Nabataeans used to control the flow of water in and out of the city.

2000-year-Old Clay Pipes Etched on the Cliff

Water Channels Cut against the Rock

A Platform Carved on the Cliff for the Weary

Al-Khazneh (The Treasury)

A Slight Sighting of the Treasury

A Broader Glimpse of Al-Khazneh through the Split

The Within-Reach  Treasury

Finally,Magnificent Al-Khazneh

We again went to the same place the next morning (starting point of our Petra by Night walk) and set out for a view of Al-Khazneh in battery-operated vehicles (6 persons per vehicle). The driver of our cart was very friendly and talked about India. There were camel and mule rides .Camels,donkeys and humans thronged the area. The roadside,dark,deserted sheds of the previous night were now transformed into colorful shops selling Jordanian souvenirs. The huge, shadowy mountains the night before were in reality towering rocks glowing in the afternoon light to a vivid garnet.

The Mountain-like Rocks on the Way

 The path did not seem treacherous as we struggled to maintain our balance (in the cart) on the bumpy road. When we started off the pinkish-brown rocks were a little far but as we neared the Treasury, the mountain-like rocks closed in on us until we could just view a glimpse of Al-Khazneh from a fissure in the huge rocks.

Elephant Faces Carved on the Cliff

Legends

The monument came to be known as Al-Khazneh in the early 19^th century by the local residents, the Bedouins, who believed that it contained treasures. The rumor was due to the Funerary Urn which crowned the monument.

The reason for this belief is some legends. According to one local legend this urn contained Pharaoh’s treasure and that it functioned as Pharaoh’s treasury during the time of Moses. It is said that while chasing Moses, Pharaoh and some of his soldiers escaped from the wrath of the Red Sea. The Pharaoh created the monument by magic and hid his treasures there and again set forth to pursue Moses. So it came to be known as Khaznet el-Far’oun or Treasury of the Pharaoh.

Another legend says that pirates hid their stolen wealth in the urn. The Bedouins believed such folklore and shot at the urn in the early 20^th century with the hope that the urn would break open and treasures would spill out and they would capture the wealth. But the effort was futile because the urn is built of solid sandstone. In reality, the urn represented a royal memorial. The downside of the Bedouins’ misadventure was the façade of Al-Khazneh is defaced by numerous bullet holes.

The Urn Defaced by Bullets
photo:David Bjorgen commons.wikimedia,org

Description

Petra is famous for its rock-cut architecture and the crowning glory is Al Khazneh.

In the first century AD, Petra’s population was the highest at 20,000.It was at that time that the Al-Khazneh structure was constructed. It is believed to be the Mausoleum of Nabataean King, Aretas IV. In 2007, Al Khazneh was voted as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.

The Six Columns and the Door of the Central Chamber

The monument is 39.1 meters high and 25.30 meters wide. It is a living proof of the craftsmanship of the Nabataeans and speaks volumes about their engineering prowess. They had carved the monument on the sandstone rock and embellished it with Corinthian columns which are topped with elaborate capitals, friezes and figures. The entire monument is supported by the cliff from which it was carved.Out of the six columns, the outer four are implanted in the rock while the two central columns are freestanding (not attached to a supporting background).  The Treasury consists of two floors and three chambers. The middle chamber is flanked by two antechambers on either side. Some archaeologists believed it to be a temple because archaeologists have found bowls with incense sticks and offering to Gods which suggest that it was a place of worship; while another section conjectured it to be a store house for documents.But the most recent excavation has unearthed a graveyard beneath the treasury.

A Peek at the Door of the Antechamber

Opposite to the Treasury, there was a rock mountain on which about 50 steps were carved, which enabled intrepid tourists to climb up them and reach its pinnacle. The mountains in Petra were of red sandstone and when the setting sun fell on it, they turned rosy. So Petra is called the Rose City/Rose-Red city. The rocks changes color according to the movement of the  sun. It’s indeed astounding to imagine the skillfulness of the ancient Nabataeans who carved such monuments on the pink-hued rock mountains 2000 years ago.

That the Treasury was a Mausoleum and a crypt is evident from the carvings done on the façade. These sculptures are mythological figures associated with life and death. One among them is the carving of four eagles on the top facade which signifies that they would carry away the souls of the departed.

Carving on the Frontage of Al-Khazneh
Photo:Bernard Gagnon Commons. wikimedia.org

A Chamber Just Adjacent to the Treasury

The interior of the Treasury was guarded off, preventing the visitors from entering it because the tourists had earlier defaced the interiors with graffiti. Inside the Treasury is a large chamber with a high ceiling with two smaller rooms and massive steps.

There were shops galore in the complex of Al-Khazneh, run by Bedouins who sold jewelry, magnets,lamps and the usual souvenirs. By the side of the Treasury there was a narrow lane which led to the Monastery and other thousand -year- old archaeological/historical sites.

The Slender Lane leading to More Archaeological Wonders

Due to the pandemic, Covid 19, tourism has stopped. Taking advantage of the isolation, the Jordanian government has authorized excavations in front of the Treasury because according to sources only five percent has been excavated so far and there are many more wonders still to be unearthed.

Garnet-Colored Rocks on the Way 

 Bright in the Afternoon Sun 

Rose-Red Rocks in the Setting Sun

Photographs: Bulbul Sur

Tags: Rose Red City,Petra,Treasury,Clay Pipes,Water Channels, Nabataeans 

Petra by Night

 

Al-Khazneh at Night

                                                    Petra by Night

At 7:30 p.m. we set out to see Petra by Night. We wore woolens, caps, socks because Petra was cold. We sat in the bus and set out from our hotel Seven Wonders. After a short drive we got down at the parking area which was jam-packed with tourist buses. From there we climbed down a flight of about 20 wide steps and came into the precincts of Petra Museum which led to the checking gate .The checking was detailed as in airports. Our bags went under a scanner. Then we entered the expansive courtyard of Petra Archaeological Park .On one side were facilities and on another side was an auditorium-like seating arrangement. At another end, shopkeepers were selling souvenirs of Petra, fridge magnets, shawls etc. We climbed down a flight of few steps, walked all the way (which was a short distance), until we reached the point from where the walking started. It was 8:30 p.m.

The moon was just a slim arrow .On both sides were dark mountains, looking huge and mysterious in the shadow and some had caves within them. The road was lit with candles in oilpaper-like bags. One side of the packets was tied so that it looked like rows of lighted, irregular, white stones. As we walked on the dark road we could see a portion of the lighted city of Petra on the mountain top. The crowd was stupendous and we could not see each other’s face in the dim light. The problem was I did not bring a torch. Of course there was enough space to walk and no bumping or crowding against each other in spite of the immense cluster of tourists. The road was stony and knobbly; I could just feel it because the darkness prevented me from seeing the reason behind my uneven steps. The mountains were closing in on both sides as we were advancing forward. There were some intermittent, thatched houses but they were dark and vacant. A guard cropped up here and there. Sometimes the candles burned brightly and in the faint light I could recognize my group members. There were sound of music, cheeping of birds and refreshing, relaxing reverberation of waterfall coming out from the mountains; as if somebody was hiding in the grottoes of the rocks and playing music and a spring was hidden in the dark crannies of the mountains; as if dawn was about to break and the trilling of birds was heralding its approach but then there was only darkness and silhouettes of people.

A Thousand Candles Floating Before The Treasury 

Gradually, the narrow path between the huge mountains became bumpier and I was afraid that I might fall down on the rutted path because now the pebbles seemed larger .Somehow, after walking for more than a km. we reached our destination—The Treasury or Al Khazneh, all blue because it was bathed in a blue light with innumerable candles lighted before it and surrounded by dark heads of tourists.

The Immense ,Orderly Global Populace

The  Lit Candles in Bags 

 Local musicians played mystical, soulful tunes on their flutes and other musical instruments. The music was such that it suited the atmosphere –pride at the old culture and a little sadness that it had vanished, that everything is so transitory. Two of my fellow travelers and I were at a loss. After travelling in the darkness for so long we were blinded by so much light. Some, probably volunteers, told us to sit down on the ground. When we declined they held us very tenderly, addressing us as 'Dear' and   made us sit on the patio of the Treasury. Candles were burning there too and I was sitting next to one. So I took the opportunity and inspected the candle. It was just an ordinary one ,burning ordinarily in a oilpaper-like bag but the overall impact was magical. We sat there for a short while, resting and immersing myself in the soulful music. The function ended soon enough and hordes of people accompanied us on our way back. Now that the path was known, it did not seem so dangerous when we were sure that there were no potholes and hairpin bends which would hurl us into gorges. The mountains on either side which not so long ago were echoing with the cheeps, music and cascade of water were now silent. Now we could see slim platforms along the edges of the rocks and we sat for some time. A few people lit torches to locate their partners. Small children walked along. The weather was cold at the start of the walk but while coming back we were feeling hot with our sweaters, shawls and mufflers. On the way we sat on a wide platform near a policeman. When he came to know we were from India, he asked us about Indira Gandhi.

Mysterious in a Different Shade of Blue

The way of return was again along the same path, past the museum and back to our bus for the return journey to our hotel. The walk was tiring no doubt but the experience was mesmeric. Al-Khazneh bathed in electric-blue light,framed against impenetrable darkness; more than a thousand candles twinkling on our path,as if yellow stars have descended on the earth are sights which can hardly be replicated and will not be forgotten easily.      

The Lighted Al-Khazneh against the Dark Mountain

Important Facts

The site is lit up by 1,500 candles. Two-hour tours from the Siq to the Treasury are organized every Monday, Wednesday and Thursday, starting at 8:30 p.m. and ending at 22.30 p.m. The tour starts from Petra Visitor Center and delivers you back by a licensed guide to the Visitor Center. Rugs are laid out on the ground before the Treasury and visitors enjoy a 20 minute show with music. 

The Treasury in Candle Light

Photographs:supplied

Tags: Night, Petra, Al-Khazneh,Treasury, Siq, Petra Visitor Center.

Temple Ruins of a Roman Hero and God

Temple Ruins of a Roman Hero and God

The Citadel, Amman

Ticket Office of  the Citadel
 Photo: supplied

The Citadel is a historical and an archaeological site in downtown Amman, the capital of Jordan. In Arabic it is called Jabal Al Qal’a. It is located on one of the hills that originally made up Amman. It is 837 m above sea level and the highest point in Amman. This hill is L-shaped and it was fortified during the Bronze Age (1800 BC).

History

Gist of The Citadel's History and Archaeological Sites
Photo: Bulbul Sur

The Citadel is considered to be one of the oldest, continuously inhabited place in the world. It is inhabited since the pottery Neolithic period. It was fortified during the Bronze Age and became the Kingdom of Ammon (modern Amman) sometime after 1200 BC during the Iron Age.. It was later occupied by various Empires: 8th century BC- Assyrians; 10th century BC- Babylonians; 3rd century BC- Ptolemies, the Seleucids; 1st century BC- Romans; 3rd century AD- Byzantines; 7th century AD- Umayyad.

After the decline of the Umayyad, the place became an abandoned pile of ruins, sporadically used by Bedouins and seasonal farmers.

Most of the buildings still visible at the site are from Roman, Byzantine and Umayyad era.Many structures collapsed due to several earthquakes, especially during the severe earthquake in 747 AD.

During the Iron Age the Citadel was called Rabbath-Ammon. The Amman Citadel inscription comes from this period, an example of early Phoenician writing. The site was conquered by the Greeks in 331 BC, became Roman around 30 BC and finally came under Muslim rule in AD 661 .The Citadel declined in importance under Ayyubid rule in the 13th century. The major buildings in the Citadel site are The Temple of Hercules, a Byzantine Church and Umayyad Palace.  

Ancient Ruins at Citadel Site
Photo: Bulbul Sur

The Temple of Hercules

The Massive Columns of  The Temple of Hercules
Photo:supplied 

The sprawling complex is full of ancient ruins and the prominent among them is the Temple of Hercules. It is the most significant Roman structure and said to be larger than any temple in Rome itself.The temple faces east. The path leading towards it is a slight climb upwards. According to an inscription it was built in the same period as the Roman Theater in Amman when Geminius Marcianus was Governor of the Province of Arabia (AD 162-166).

This huge temple is 31 m long by 26 m wide .It has an outer temenos (sacred enclosure) measuring 122 by 72 m .The temple portico is framed by  6 columns which are 10 m (33 ft.) tall.

Huge Ancient Stones near the Colossal Temple Ruins
Photo:Supplied

From one part of the hill we got a good view of the old town below ,all buildings  in sun-bleached yellow hue; the structures of the citadel were a little shade darker. We got a bird’s eye view of the Roman Theater.  

A view of the Semi-Circular Roman Theater from the Citadel
Photo:Bulbul Sur

A Glimpse of  Downtown Amman from The Citadel

                                                                     Photo:Bulbul Sur

Tags: The Citadel, Temple of Hercules, Ammon, Downtown Amman,Roman Theater.

The Place Where Prophet Moses Breathed His Last Breath

The Place where Prophet Moses Breathed His Last Breath

Mount Nebo, Madaba, Jordan

The Entrance Gate
Photo:Bulbul Sur

Mount Nebo is a mountain ridge in ancient Moab, now western Jordan. It is in Madaba Governorate, 10 km. west of the Roman Byzantine town of Madaba. Mount Nebo’s height is 2330 ft. (approx. 710 m). It is a famous pilgrimage site for Christians because it is associated with Moses’ last days.According to the Bible it is the last place where he was ever seen. The other name of the site is Pisgah.

 According to the final chapter of the Book of Deuteronomy, Moses ascended Mount Nebo to view the ‘Promised Land’, Land of Cannan which God said that he would not enter. In Deuteronomy, 32:49 mentions God’s command to Moses, “Ascend this mountain of the Abarim, Mount Nebo which is in the land of Moab, opposite Jericho.” Moses died in Moab. He was buried in Mount Nebo but nobody knows the exact place of his burial.

The most popular theory is, Moses was buried in a secret place by the Lord himself.Another theory suggests Moses simply ascended to heaven from Mount Nebo. A third states that Moses was buried in Mount Nebo by a handful of his most trusted followers.

Mount Nebo’s first church was constructed in the 2^nd half of the 4^th century to commemorate the place of Moses’ death.

Memorial Church of Moses  
courtesy: Carole Raddato commons.wikimedia.org

A Mountain-side View of Memorial Church of Moses
Photo: Bulbul Sur

Mount Nebo has immense spiritual significance since times immemorial. In 2 Maccabees 2:4-2:7 written around 100 BC, it is said that after being warned by God, prophet Jeremiah took the Arc of the Covenant, the Tabernacle and the Altar of Incense and buried them in a cave in Mount Nebo before the Babylonian invasion took place. He informed his followers that the hiding place should remain unknown “until the time that God should gather his people again together and receive them unto mercy.” (Source: en.wikipedia.org)

Jubilaeum Monument

This monolith on Mount Nebo,created by Vincenzo Bianchi, was erected by the Catholic Church in celebration of the Pope Paul II's visit to Mount Nebo. The Latin inscription at its base, "Unus Deus Pater Omnium Super Omnes" is taken from Ephesians 4:6 in the Bible which means 'One God and Father of all ,who is above all.'    

 

Jubilaeum  2000 A.D.
Photo:supplied  

It is stated that this was the place where God showed Moses the promised land and from this high point Moses looked out over Cannan.

Moses' Stated Place of View of the Promised Land
Photo :Bulbul Sur

The Abu Badd

The Abu Badd is a huge, circular stone positioned behind the memorial church of Moses at Mount Nebo. The signboard explains that it is a rolling stone used as a fortified door of a Byzantine monastery in the old village of Faisaliyah, once known as Kufer Abu Badd.

Abu Badd
Photo Courtesy:Supplied

A Close-Up of the Stone
Photo:Bulbul Sur 

The Signboard
Photo: Bulbul Sur 

Moses’ spring

Jordan Valley 
Courtesy: Britchi Mirela commons.wikimedia.org

The Spring in the Shaded Area
Photo :Bulbul Sur

From the top of Mount Nebo we get an expansive view of the Jordan River valley. Amidst the wilderness, sparse vegetation, some olive trees, there is a spring amidst a cluster of greenery. It is said that this spring is one of the two places (the other is Moses' Spring,Wadi Musa) where Prophet Moses is believed to have obtained water by striking a rock. Six, giant eucalyptus trees indicate the spot and there is an occasional waterfall over the tip of the rocks. There are ruins of churches nearby.

The Brazen Serpent Monument

The Brazen Serpent
Photo Courtesy:Supplied

The Serpent Cross or the Brazen Serpent Monument on Mount Nebo was created by the Italian artist Giovanni Fantoni. It is of great religious significance because it represents the Bronze serpent created by Moses in the wilderness and also the cross upon which Jesus was crucified.

In the Hebrew Bible it is mentioned that after their exodus from Egypt, the Israelites became impatient while roaming in the wilderness. They complained against Yehovah and Moses (Num. 21:4-5). Hence, God sent ‘fiery serpents’ among them and many Israelites lost their lives. They repented before Moses and asked him to plead to God to take away the serpents. Moses prayed to God who told him ,”Make thee a fiery serpent, and set it upon a pole, and it shall come to pass that everyone that is bitten, when he seeth it, shall live (Num.21:4-9).

In the Book of Mormon, Prophet Alma compared the brazen serpent to a type of Christ and exhorted the people of Antionum to look to Christ and spiritually live.     

In the Gospel of John, Jesus discusses his destiny with a Jewish teacher named Nicodemus and mentions the serpent, “And as Moses lifted up the serpent in the wilderness, even so must the son of man be lifted up: That whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have eternal life. For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life.”(John 3:14-16).

In view of such spiritual implication of the serpent, the artist Giovanni Fantoni created a symbolic bronze serpent on Mount Nebo. In this modern sculpture,he merged two aspects of the serpent: the life-saving bronze serpent set up by Moses and the cross upon which Jesus was crucified; thus creating a unique piece which in spite of being artistic, is replete with religious connotations.

Mount Nebo is one of the ‘most revered’ holy sites of Jordan.  If the sky is clear, the pilgrims can see the everlasting vista that Moses had seen at the command of God…the Dead Sea, the Jordan River Valley, Jericho, Bethlehem and the distant hills of Jerusalem.

A Section of the Promised Land
Photo: Bulbul Sur

A Map on Mount Nebo Indicating the Distance of Biblical Places
Courtesy: Wikimedia Commons

 

  

The Petra Museum, Jordan:Futuristic Display of Ancient Epoch

The Petra Museum 

 courtesy:Wikipedia (www.theartnewspaper.com)

                            The Petra Museum, Jordan: Futuristic Display of Ancient Epoch

If the UNESCO World Heritage site of Petra, the 2,000 year-old capital of the Nabataeans is the ultimate destination for tourists visiting Jordan, then the Petra Museum is also a must-see because it ably complements the ancient site which got a major fillip due to the museum.

The well-located, ultra-modern Petra Museum  in Wadi Musa, stands just outside the main entrance of the Archaeological Park housing the antique Rose city of Petra . On March 2014, PDTRA (Petra Development and Tourism Region Authority) and JICA (The Japan International Cooperation Agency) jointly signed a memorandum to build this modern museum near the Visitor Center to showcase the antiquities of the Nabataean City of Petra. It took 5 years to build this museum and it got a grant of $ 7m    from JICA. The museum is designed by Japanese architects Yamashita Sekkei. It has 1,800 sq.m of climate controlled galleries, which present spectacular objects. The museum was inaugurated on 18^th April 2019 by Jordan’s Crown Prince Hussein. Though Japan played a major role in building the museum, the displays and multimedia content were developed largely by local expertise such as Jordanian curators, scholars and designers. The museum is managed by the Petra Development and Tourism Regional Authority under Jordan’s Prime Minister in co-ordination with the department of Antiquities.

The atmosphere of the Museum is itself beautiful. We got down at the crowded but organized tourist bus depot, passed through souvenir shops and climbed down quite a number of rose- colored steps. There is an accessibility ramp for wheelchair users. Then we came to an open-to-the-sky campus which has a beautiful, expansive, courtyard and an ornamental pool. There is not much greenery in the open public space. The shallow pool surrounds half of the museum campus. This emphasizes the strong theme of water.

We crossed the courtyard and came into the precincts of the museum itself. From here the scene is stupendous… a sweeping panorama comprising of the winding road, nestled between the mud-colored hills.

A View of the Surroundings 

Here too, there are stairs as well as accessibility ramps which lead right to the entrance of the museum. The museum is at one level. The exterior and interior are aesthetically appealing and well-designed giving an aura of  vastness and openness.

Entrance Lounge

The emphasis on water is further carried forward at the entrance, waiting lounge.  Water was sparse and the ancient Nabataeans regarded it as a treasure.There is a detailed explanation of Nabataean aquatic engineering displayed on a LED screen; about the sophisticated mechanism for water storage and utilization in ancient times. Jordan being one of the driest countries in the world, the ancient Nabataeans created an innovatory, water-channeling technology. They had a thorough understanding of every possible source of water available to them. They had an extensive understanding of hydraulics system which enabled them to create runoff rain water-collection arrangement. Diagrams, images and writings are used in the video to explain the importance of water in the arid region, hence the need for water management system. A diagram explains the gist of water harvesting methods of Nabataeans in antiquity (fig.1) and shows their dexterity in engineering and water harvesting techniques. They harvested rain water, flood water, ground water and natural springs. The video shows how the Nabataeans created channels, aqueducts, terraces, reservoirs, dams and cisterns which provided a constant source of water to the city’s inhabitants through underground pipelines. They developed an adept process of collecting and storing water in water holes or cisterns which were hidden underground. These cisterns kept water safe from evaporation and enemies. The video is informative and artistic.  The images of the flow of water through the rock-cut channels of Petra had a very cooling effect after encountering the scorching sun outside.      

A Triangle Depicting Water Management of Nabataeans

                                                                                                                           (Fig.1)

Museum

The Petra Museum contains 280-300 artifacts dating back from the early Stone Age,later Stone Age, Bronze Age, Beginnings of Iron Age to the present age. They were obtained from the Department of Antiquities of Jordan. There are 5 exhibition halls showcasing the history of Petra and the Nabataeans’ life, their civilization and tools which were discovered from archaeological excavations.

The main aim is to represent Petra’s local identity through archaeological discoveries, inscription, frescoes, mosaic floors, stone pillars, statues, utensils, maps, historic and prehistoric remains. We learn at the beginning of our tour of the museum that the ancient name of Petra was Raqmu. The exhibits are arranged in chronological order. The halls are spacious enough to encourage unhindered visitor movement. There is also adequate space to stop, read and examine particular objects.The lighting over the exhibits is adequate so that there is no problem in close inspection or reading the literature associated with them. 

The museum is very high-tech. There are many multimedia touchscreens throughout the museum and also some video displays.

The touchscreens and the written material complement each other. The literature associated with each exhibit is sufficient. There are display boards with the literature of each exhibit and there are also interactive touchscreens which provide detailed contextual content and histories to specific exhibits. The narrative is effective and simple.  The bilingual text in English and Arabic is very organized and concise.

 The first hall presents geology, climate, flora and fauna, agriculture and lifestyles of Petra region.

Here, there is a colossal bust of God Dushara/Dhu Shara, a pre-Islamic, ancient, Arabian God worshiped by the Nabataeans at Petra. He was their supreme deity and the official God of the Nabataean kingdom. In Greek time He was associated with Zeus because He was the chief of the Nabataean Pantheon as well as with Dionysus. The name Dushara is from the Arabic word ‘Dhu ash-shara’, the lord of the Shara or Seir, the mountain range of Edom in Genesis, referring to the Shara mountain range around Petra.

Dushara

The next enclosure is the Stone Age and from then onward there are designated halls and sections for respective ages and dynasties. The most impressive spectacle is in the inner hall, called Active Nabataeans. There is a huge screen in a large, circular, sunken space and we watched the images springing into life from the landing which was secured by a parapet, so that there was no fear of falling into the well. The multimedia floor projection describes the early settlement of Nabataeans in Petra in 5^th century BCE .They became prosperous due to their expansion of  incense trade routes in the Eastern Mediterranean in the 3^rd century BCE. They reached their pinnacle of prosperity and aggrandizement in the first century BCE and CE.Their downfall came in the second century CE due to foreign annexation. Quite a number of sculptures and architectural elements tracing the rise of the Nabataeans are displayed in the floor projection. A marble torso of Venus from the Roman era which was obtained from Petra’s theater is on display. 

Greek Inscription Mentioning Petra

The Nabataean Zenith focuses on the famous treasury tomb at Petra (the Al-Khazneh).A video projection shows the chronological development of the Al-Khazneh.

Nabataean Expressions present scripts in Nabataean, Greek and Latin which showed that the ancient incense traders had a multicultural outlook and they were conversant with other trading partners of ancient world civilizations which played an important part in their evolution. Nabataean Life features objects of domestic use such as -Nabataean pottery ovens, bronze statues, trading coins, ornaments, jewelry and a collection of lamps. The gallery, Waning of Petra refers to the period of Roman annexations and other foreigners.

 The final gallery is Revitalization of Petra which tells of the local Bedouin traditions, the site’s rediscovery by European explorers in the 19^th century and the many archaeological and heritage projects conducted here today. It also focuses on conservation projects.

The visit to the museum was totally an enriching experience. The multimedia touch screens as well as the written information displayed on boards against the exhibits are measured and do not bombard the visitor with too much information.  You need at least a couple of hours to go through the entire museum thoroughly. Most of my time was taken up by the sunken gallery, ‘Active Nabataean’ because of its stunning visual technology, its aesthetic treatment of ancient history, its eye-catching display of archaeological objects and above all, the well-explained and well-thought-out narrative.

Location of Ancient Petra

If the Petra Museum is educative and pleasing to the eye in the morning, in the evening it acquires a magical,mysterious and  ethereal quality.The dark,towering Shara mountain range border the lit-up museum and the setting looks like an oasis of light in a desert of darkness, preparing the traveler for the enchanting journey to Siq  and the world famous Al- Khazneh that lies ahead.     

  

The Petra Museum at Night
Courtesy: Wikipedia (www.maisam.com.jo)

Photographs: Bulbul Sur

Tags: Petra,  Siq, Petra Museum, Dushara, Nabataean water technology, Active Nabataeans.

Sections: Entrance Lounge, Museum

Blue Mosque, Amman, Jordan

Blue Mosque, Amman, Jordan

Magnificent Mosque

King Abdullah I Mosque was built between 1982 and 1989. Construction began in 1982 on the orders of late King Hussein of Jordan and completed in 1989. It was built in memory of his grandfather, King Abdullah I. It is the only mosque open for non-Muslims visitors.

The Huge Dome tinted with Many Shades of Blue  

It is capped by a blue, mosaic dome .Therefore it is popularly known as the Blue Mosque.The twin minarets adds to its appeal.It is also known as Masjid Abdullah I. It is considered to be the largest and most modern of all the mosques in Amman.

History

On the 20^th of July 1951, King Abdullah I of Jordan and his grandson, Prince Hussein were in a mosque in Jerusalem for Friday prayers when an assassin opened fire on them. King Abdullah was shot thrice and he died immediately.

Prince Hussein was also hit but a medal ‘which his grandfather had pinned to his chest earlier, deflected the bullet’ and he was saved. Later, when he reigned as King Hussein (1952-1999) he built the King Abdullah I Mosque in Amman as a tribute to his grandfather.

Description

The Minaret

A View of the Mosque from the Courtyard

The Mosque is a big, round building without any pillars inside it. It is entered through a gift shop. We had to climb a few steps to reach a wide courtyard and then enter the shop in the basement, selling souvenirs. At its rear end there is a small antechamber with rows of black and coffee-brown abaya (full-length dress) on hangers. Each one of us wore an abaya according to our size and only then we could enter the mosque. The dress was given free of charge. Men must wear long trousers for entry inside the mosque.

Before Entering the Mosque

The mosque is situated on a higher platform so that we had to climb a few more steps.

Steps Leading to the Mosque

 Before entering the mosque we had to take off our shoes.

The Elaborate, Inner Courtyard Just outside the Mosque

The inside of the mosque is profound with depth and divinity. The large hall is carpeted with red, plush fabric. The ceiling is beautifully ornamented and the chandeliers are splendid.

The Embellished Ceiling

The  Glorious Chandelier

The Grand Interior

Colorful, Floral Dreamholes near the Ceiling 

There were about four entry and exit points besides the main entrance. Mecca is south of Jordan so people here face the south while praying. Photography is allowed inside. There is a small section for women and a smaller section for the royal family. Our guide told us that King Abdullah II comes here every morning during Ramadan. The space is large and 3000 worshipers can congregate at one time. There is a wooden pulpit-type structure from where the Maulvi delivers his sermons. 

A  Section Inside the Mosque

The whole complex (comprising of the mosque and the courtyard) has a capacity for 10,000 worshipers.

On the opposite street is Coptic Church facing the Mosque. Jordan’s population is comprised of 97.2% of Muslims and 2.2% of Christians.

Coptic Church

 Though the Blue Mosque is no longer the primary place for worship, yet thousands of foreign and local tourists continue to visit the mosque each year.

Photographs: Supplied