The Highest Gurdwara, an Alien Occurrence and The Highest Motorable Road in the World

The Highest Gurdwara in the world

An Alien Occurrence

and

The Highest Motorable Road in the World

Gurdwara Pathar Sahib is situated on the Leh-Kargil highway, 25 kilometers from Leh. At an altitude of 12,000 feet it is considered to be the highest Gurdwara in the world. It is located near Magnetic Hill.

At the site, the signboard's inscription gives a full history of the Gurdwara. In 1517, Guru Nanakji came to Ladakh through Yarkand after visiting Nepal, Sikkim, and Tibet. Guru Nanak came to that exact place near Leh, where the Gurdwara stands today. In a nearby hill there lived a cruel demon who terrorized and killed people and even ate them up. The people prayed to Almighty God to liberate them from this terror .Guru Nanak heard the plight of the frightened people and decided to alleviate their misery. He sat on the bank of a river below the hill where the wicked demon lived and began to meditate. People’s courage was restored and they worshipped Guru Nanak Dev as Nanak Lama. This infuriated the demon who decided to kill Guru Nanak.With this aim in mind he hurled a huge stone (Pathar) from the hill but Guru Nanak continued to meditate. The stone upon touching Guruji turned soft like wax and stuck to His body taking the shape of His meditating pose. The demon climbed down from the hill thinking that he had killed Guruji but he was furious to see Him alive. He kicked the stone angrily with his right foot and his leg got stuck in the wax-like stone. Then the demon realized the divinity of Guru Nanak and falling at His feet asked for His forgiveness. Guruji advised the demon to live the rest of his life in peace and serve humanity. The demon obeyed him. After some time Guru Nanak Dev went to Kashmir via Kargil.

Pathar Sahib 

The construction of Gurdwara Pathar Sahib

In the late 1970s, during the construction of Leh –Nimu road, a large boulder was found lying in the middle of the road, covered with Buddhist prayer flags. The bulldozer driver tried to push the stone with the dozer but the boulder refused to move .The ignition of the bulldozer would switch off automatically. He informed his officer (a major in the army) who noticed a small, wooden box behind the boulder. He realized that the box was meant for collections given by devotees and therefore the boulder had religious significance. Upon inquiries, the local villagers informed him that the holy shrine was of Nanak Lama and the stone was taken care of by a family who had placed the wooden box for collecting offerings and donations.

BRO (Border Road Organization) decided to change the alignment of the road. A hut was immediately constructed by Border Road Task Force around the boulder and a Sikh soldier was assigned the task of taking care of the sacred place. The hut gradually turned into a beautiful Gurdwara called Pathar Sahib and is revered as a famous pilgrimage site in Ladakh. The place is worshipped by Lamas, Sikhs and Hindus. The Ladakhis worship him as Lama Nanak or Guru Gompa Maharaj.

Another version (Sikhi Wiki) says that the bulldozer driver made repeated, failed attempts to remove the stone .Finally, when the driver put excessive pressure, the blade of the bulldozer snapped. That night he had a dream forbidding him to move the stone. He narrated the dream to one of the army officers but the latter told him to ignore it. When it was decided to blow up the stone with dynamite, the army officer also had the same dream. Next morning several Ladakhis from the local villages visited the officer and told him about the history of the place.

The boulder was actually a mould with the impression of the revered Lama Nanak that contained a hollow imprint of His shoulders, head and backside. It is the impression of a meditating man along with the impression of the demon’s foot.

                                          Guru Nanak's Imprint on the Rock or Pathar                                                 Photo Courtesy: Sikhi Wiki

                                                                                                 

Imprint of the Demon's Foot on the Rock
                                                                                Photo Courtesy:Sikhi Wiki

The Full Rock (Pathar) Hurled at Guru Nanak Devji
Photo courtesy: Sikhi Wiki

We have to open our shoes and socks, cover our heads, clean our feet in a shallow tank of flowing water, wash our hands in the numerous taps and then enter the Gurdwara. Saffron head gears are supplied by the army. Inside the temple is a picture of Guru Nanak Devji and as we did our pradakshina we came across that huge rock which was hurled at Guru Nanak Dev. We got Prasad of delicious halwa and we sat in meditation for a while. We came out through the exit into a terrace where we were served excellent masala chai and bundi free of cost. It is called chai aur bundi ki langar. The scenic beauty around the Gurdwara is a feast to the eye with the towering Himalayan range and the valley dotted with purple blue wild geraniums, deep blue wind flower or wild anemone flowers.

Purple Valley and Grey Himalayan Range

The arrangement at the Gurdwara is superb. Outside there are clean toilets for men and women. The whole complex is maintained by the Indian army .No wonder it is flawless.

Magnetic Hill

A Portion of Magnetic Hill

This is a strange phenomenon just 30 kms away from Leh. There is a small stretch of road where all types of vehicles go on their own at this point. A sign board proclaims, “The phenomenon that defies gravity. Park your vehicle in the box marked with paint on the road and experience the wonder.”

If the engine of a vehicle is killed and the vehicle is parked in neutral, it will automatically slide a few inches which the locals believe is due to the magnetic power of the hill. The car will move forward at about 20 km/h without any effort on the driver’s part.

There are various theories regarding this alien occurrence. The most popular theory is the hill emits a great  amount of magnetic energy, thereby pulling vehicles towards it that are within its range.  

The second theory is scientific .Due to optical illusion, any vehicle which goes downhill seems to appear as if it were going uphill.

The third theory is traditional. Local villagers believe at this very spot once existed a road which led straight to heaven. Those who deserved going to heaven were pulled to the path while those who didn’t were left behind.

Whatever might be the case, our van was standing on the road opposite to the Magnetic Hill. Our driver switched off the ignition but still the van moved just with clutch and gear so great was the effect of the point. The hill has caused Indian Air Force planes to change their routes in the past to avoid its magnetic influence. Earlier people used to drive bikes on that hill but it has been prohibited after accidents.

The Road near Magnetic Hill
(courtesy :Travel Triangle)

Hall of Fame

The next stop is the Hall of Fame which is 4 kms away from Leh city. This is an amazing place evoking patriotic fervor and also fills us with sadness at the sacrifice of our brave soldiers. The rust-colored, hexagon-shaped building is itself eye-catching. It is maintained by the army. We have to keep our bags in the safe deposit at the gate. There is a museum which tells us about the scenic beauties, historical places, flora and fauna of Ladakh. There is a souvenir shop selling all sorts of indigenous articles from small clocks to clothes, shawls, saffron, spices etc. We also watched a film in the projection room on Kargil War which was organized by the army in which it was shown in great detail about the terror atrocities committed by Pakistan, leading to Kargil War, India’s glorious fight back and the martyrdom of Captain Vikram Batra.

Hall of Fame
(courtesy: Leh  Ladakh Tourism) 

Khardung La

 Photo courtesy: Nibha Bhandari

Khardung La is about 39 km away from Leh and takes about 45 minutes by road. It is a mountain pass in the Ladakh region. La means Pass in Tibetan language. The nearest town is Leh. It is the highest motorable pass in the world at 18,380 feet and recorded in the Guinness World Records.  However, new evidence has shown that it is at a height of 5,359m (17,582ft). Khardung Pass also has a historical value because it is the first of the high passes on the ancient caravan trail to Central Asia from India. The road is maintained by BRO. The Pass was constructed in 1976 and in 1988 it was opened to public vehicles. It is the way to carry supplies to the Siachen Glacier.

The Multifaceted Himalayas viewed from the Road's Edge

A Forest of Poplars

Solitary Houses in the Valleys beside Mountain Streams 

As we climbed higher and higher through the snaky, mountain path, the habitations looked like doll’s houses in the valleys. The highest peaks were still snow covered and a narrow channel of trickling snow was seen as the sun rays fell on it. There were huge rocks strewn by the side of the road, in gorges and plateaus and they had a curious color-- a sort of orangish stain as if uncouth people had desecrated them with betel spittle. But in point of fact those rocks were sporting a kind of growth called Lycra. It is a moss and this proved that the atmosphere was free from pollution . My Botanist co-traveler educated me that if this moss grows in cities, it means the cities are becoming cleaner and free from SO4 (sulphate).

Agricultural Tracts in Irrigated Valleys

Scanty Vegetation and the Winding Road

There was no vegetation except an occasional bush of five-petalled Himalayan roses or bright mauve, stemless Raikse flowers and yellow Khardung peeping out through the rocks. The human settlements were richly vegetated due to irrigation. Very often we saw forests of poplars with the hint of a couple of houses in the dense growth. Along the streams (formed by melting of snow in higher regions), we saw some vegetation like sea buckthorn, wild roses of pink and yellow varieties, tamarisk (salt cedar), stinging nettles etc. The shores of watercourses were green due to various grasses. In such a desolate terrain the only companions were the silent, mountains, dark and mysterious as the sun’s shadows fell upon them; or glowing with yellow snow in the sun rays or mountain blue under the sapphire sky. In fact the sky is very beautiful—a deep blue, flecked with snow-white flocks of clouds. There are of course some black-stained tips of cloudlets. But in general white clouds hung like fizgig just above the snow-capped mountains, perhaps trying to break the meditations of the serene, philosophical mountains with their flirty ways.

Green Shores of  a Watercourse

The Meditative Mountains and the Flirty Clouds

Many Miles to Travel on  the Curvy, Silent and Challenging Road  

The road is indeed narrow and two vehicles cannot pass through it at the same time. As our van crawled past another stationary vehicle, its tires balancing precariously at the edge of the road we held our breath; an inch here and there and down below is the deep gorge. Sometimes dirt, loose stones and streams appeared on the road. Another strange phenomenon was the number of motorcyclists who zipped past; some were single; some with their wives or male companions. All were dressed cap-a-pie and enjoying the treacherous road and the scenery around stretching their physical and mental powers to the farthest limits. Then we reached Khardung La .It is at such a high altitude that a sign board warned us that staying for more than 20-25 minutes will be injurious to health.The two checkpoints on either side of Khardung La are North Pullu and South Pullu.

Snow, Snow and Snow Everywhere

Another View of  the Pass 

There is snow all around. The climate in this region is Arctic Tundra. I went in August (2015) when the maximum temperature was 7 degree Celsius and the minimum was -6 degrees Celsius. There is a military base with a few soldiers guarding our territory. How do they survive in this area? There is also a temple of Chandimata and the entire periphery is decorated with bright Tibetan holy flags. We left within 30 minutes. From the top, the road through which we came appeared to be a thin strip of goat track, curling around the mountain.

Indian Army Post at Khardung La

I had the good fortune to interact with some bikers. A young gentleman had come all the way from Nagpur on his motorbike with his wife as ride pillion. They took turns to drive their motorcycle. Both were very brave, composed yet very humble as if an inner urge had prompted them to take this supremely adventurous journey.  

The Brave Husband and Wife Biker Team from Nagpur at Khardung La

 To casual tourists like us, Khardung Pass and the surrounding Himalayan range appeared challenging and we were silent and conscious of our every breath at this majestic, beautiful divinity . The Himalayan range formed over 45 million years ago in the Ladakh region is massive and serene and made us feel tiny before its meditative grandeur. What is the motive power of the bikers? The earliest journeys through this Himalayan pass were undertaken by merchants, shepherds and pilgrims. The merchants and shepherds had no choice but to cross the pass and undertake the journey through the Himalayas because it was a matter of their livelihood.  The pilgrims searched for enlightenment in these regions because they firmly believed that at the end of their arduous and dangerous journey lies God.

Do the bikers believe like the pilgrims that the victory attained after the arduous and dangerous  journey is akin to attaining enlightenment? In this hazardous stretch, they or our van driver must be rooted in the most powerful unit of time, The Present Moment because a slight absent-mindedness and the powerful Himalayas won’t spare you. It demands your attention and respect at every moment. The handful of Indian army soldiers stationed at that remote spot go beyond the call of duty and immerse themselves in Nowness to stop their mind from wandering in the desolation, coldness and danger of this place. This is the highest form of spirituality that the Himalayas, sometimes fearsome but always beautiful awoke in us : to be aware of the present moment with our mind, body and soul.  The Ladakhis worshiping at that height are protecting the travelers from evil eye through their prayers and flags. The army is guarding our country and the countrymen with their dedicated and selfless service. All are bowing before the almighty Himalayas, the abode of the Gods in their own way: through meditations, through prayers, through adventure and through selfless service.   

Photographs: Bulbul Sur

Pangong Lake

Pangong Lake

Ladakh,India

Pangong Lake is a 187 km drive from Leh. The journey was long (about five hours), adventurous and sometimes scary, as our driver steered his vehicle  through the interminable curves of the snaky road bordered by the Himalayan range. On our way we saw a turtled Sumo lying by the side of the road. Perhaps, after the accident the remnants of the sumo hurtled down the incline, where its motion was stopped by a boulder or a bush. The doors and windows of the vehicle were huge, rectangular caverns.

The Deep Gorge Below and the Slim,Treacherous Road Above, Winding the Himalayas  

Our journey continued. Alongside the road, men and women were cutting stones and carrying them in baskets on their heads. They were working hard but their attire and looks proclaimed loud and clear that they had trouble in making two ends meet. The stressful feeling of the precarious road was broken by pretty streams, surrounded with yellow, daisy-like flowers. One stream was quite broad but when the water flowed through flat land, it appeared stagnant as if frozen, so quiet was its flow. Its movement could be ascertained only when it plunged down in the gorge

A Mountain Stream

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The Himalayan mountain range surprised us at every turn, at every hairpin bend…decked sometimes in shadows, and sometimes bathed in sun rays, sometimes covered in green growth and sometimes mountain blue.

The Ever-changing Himalayas 

The army stopped us for a while because blasting was going on in the higher zones. We moved farther up. Sometimes the road lay transparent under water but that was actually melted snow from the upper regions. As we climbed higher up we came across a boundary wall of snow, Chang La Pass.

Chang La Pass

Chang La is on the route from Leh to Pangong Lake and is the second highest motorable road in the world. The pass remains open from mid-May to October. It is the third highest pass in the world, situated at an altitude of 17586 feet (5360m).

Snow Wall

This stretch of 10—15 km road requires very careful driving. Not only is the climb steep but the road is covered in snow and sludge which is created by small streams on the road due to the melting of snow in the upper regions.

 The mountain range surrounding it is the mighty Himalayas and it is covered in snow throughout the year. I went in August and there was snow everywhere, so you can imagine the condition in winters. Not only is the Himalayan range white but the road is bordered by walls of snow. There is a souvenir shop, and a tea-coffee restaurant, called Changla Cafeteria. There are toilets outside the cafeteria but the ladies toilet is absolutely filthy. One cup of tea at the café was 30 rupees and you have to drink it quickly or it would turn cold.

There are many inspiring writings on pedestals maintained by BRO (Border Road Organization) and the Indian army. On an army stand is written, “May Chang La Baba bless you.” Chang La Pass is said to be named after a famous sadhu Changla Baba and there is a temple dedicated to him nearby which is decorated with Tibetan flags. Chang La means Pass towards the South (Chang—South, La--Pass).A signboard of BRO read ‘Bro Himank—Connects the Heart of Ladakh.  Nothing great is ever achieved without enthusiasm.’ It was very heartening to see India’s flag on its pedestal.

Since Chang La is located very near to the Chinese border, it is guarded and protected by the Indian army. There is a Tea Point at Chang La where the Indian army serves tea free of cost. The world’s highest research center established by DRDO ( Defence Research and Development Organization) is fully functional in Chang La at a height of 17,500 feet.

At this height we suffered altitude sickness and dizziness and we could not stay for more that 20-25 minutes but the soldiers of the Indian army is working there relentlessly not only for the country but also for the tourists. There is a free medical aid center maintained by the army at Chang La. From there we climbed higher and higher .Then started the descent.

Way to Pangong Lake

The road above us, which we had left behind, was like a zigzag ribbon. It was no longer bordered by the mighty Himalayan range but by green valleys on which grazed yaks and pashmina goats. A family of marmots frolicked in the lush grass, posing at our cameras. The mountains were now at the distance with the pastures in between .We came across a signboard which told us to drive slowly because that’s the junction where marmots (endangered species) crossed the road.

Marmots

Yaks

Pashmina Goats

Pangong
We were silently enjoying the change of scenery -- from the challenging road between stupendous grave mountains and gorges to the soothing calming pastures. Suddenly our tour coordinator said, ‘Okay, now look to your left. One two and three!”

First View 

And that was our first view of Pangong Lake, like a saucer of deep blue water in the lap of the Himalayan range. As the cameras went clickety click, the lake came into full view, flowing serenely with the mountains bordering it. Is it blue or green or lapis lazuli? Oh, what an amalgamation of luxuriant colors! Near the road the lake appeared blackish, but farther away it became mountain bluish; then the cerulean layer started and a little farther it became light blue, then it turned turquoise. Synonym of  blue color was exhausted while describing its various shades. The actual lake is far, far beautiful than what we saw in the climactic scene of the film, ‘Three Idiots.’

Pangong Lake

We move farther and farther with the blue-green lake on our left side until the lake broadened, the mountains became more distinct and an abundance of man-high rose bushes with pinkish blossoms adorned the plains. My co-traveler, a Botanist, informed me that those were genuine roses having five petals. All the other types of roses are hybrid.

A Different Color of Pangong Lake

Abundance of Rose Bushes near Pangong Lake

Finally we reached our destination -- the campsite facing Pangong Lake. The exhilarating lake with its still water stretched before us framed by the mountains. Behind our tents the mighty Himalayan range almost touched the sky with its snow-capped peaks.

Our Campsite Flanked by the Mighty Himalayan Range Behind

                                                                                               Photo: Supplied

The Area Between the Campsite and the Lake

Play of Afternoon Light and Shade on the Lake and the Mountain 

Though the tents were near the lakefront, it was on a higher level. I climbed a few stone steps and reached my tent number 8.The tent was made of thick white canvas secured safely with sturdy cords to the poles stuck in the ground. The entry to the tent was through a flap as high as an ordinary door and it was zipped with larger than normal zips. The inside was very comfortable with a double bed, 2 sets of quilts, an extra mattress (with a pillow and a thick blanket) on the floor, and table lamps on either side of the bed.

The attached bathroom was carpeted in red. It had a western-style commode, a basin, a bucket , a mug and soap, water in taps, hot water on demand ;in short, everything necessary for a luxurious stay. There was also a rack with snow-white towels.

All the tents were supplied with two deck chairs. I sat in it and gazed at the mountains. The sun was setting behind our tents and its rays fell on the mountain before us. There were a few snow-covered peaks but with the sun rays, the surface of one mountain became yellow; another torso became shadowy, another turned beige. The blue and the green colors on the lake faded away and the water became bluish grey. As the sun set, the air turned freezing cold, the mountains became murky, the white clouds were swallowed in the dusky, colorless sky and before my very eyes I saw a wonderful sight. Snow started falling on the mountain top, slowly, imperceptibly. A peak of the Himalaya became matted with snow, until there was a thick mattress of snow on its top. The environment turned black with nightfall and only the whiteness of the snow glittered on the mountain crest.

Pangong Lake at Dusk

Snowfall on the Mountain at Nightfall

The mountains on the west had already become snow-capped for a considerable time. With the advancement of night, the climate became colder than a December- January one in the plains and we put on our jackets, gloves, coats and caps. There was also a solitary tent on the lower level which served as the kitchen and dining room. At eight we had a lavish dinner of rotis, rice, rajma, vegetable curry, sweet dish etc. The lunch was simple: rice, dal and cabbage. The polite staff looked after us very well considering the isolation of the place. The nearest market was many miles away making it more distant because of the twisting, rough road. One bottle of mineral water cost 60 rupees.

After dinner another round of enjoyment began. A bonfire was lit, with our driver pouring petrol on logs of wood. Due to the intense cold everybody huddled near the fire. The sky was covered with stars. This was astounding because after many, many years, I saw a star-filled sky. Nowadays in the cities we can only see the moon and Venus planet. There was lots of singing, dancing and merriment with the music played from the music system of our van. At half past ten the party broke up, because the generators would be switched off at 11 p.m. The generators are run on solar power. Then I slept soundly under the double quilt with the icy-cold mountain wind roaring outside.

Bonfire           

                                                                                                                       Photograph: supplied

The next morning I woke up at half-past five to watch the sunrise. The sky was still dark so were the mountains. The western mountains were still snow-capped. The water of the lake was navy blue. Then the sun rose piercing its rays through slate-grey clouds; just a few rays, the whole sun was not visible yet. A few minutes passed. The surface of the mountains was still dark, but their crests were white. Then suddenly the bright, yellow sun emerged. The sky was again lapis lazuli with misshapen white clouds and Pangong Lake had again taken the color of the sky. But one part of the water was green.

Grey Sky and Lake at Dawn

Sunrise on the Himalayas

Facts about Pangong Lake

Our knowledgeable Ladakhi guide, who spoke excellent English, informed us that people play ice hockey on Pangong Lake during winters because it becomes completely frozen. Chinese incursions also happen during winters through Pangong Lake.

Pangong Tso has several special features.

1.     It is an endorheic lake in the Himalayas which means it is internally drained having no outlet to rivers or oceans. The lake retains water and never dries up. It is a mountain-locked lake. It is not part of the Indus basin area. 

2.     It is situated at a height of about 4,350m (14,270 feet).

3.     It extends from India to the Tibetan Autonomous Region, China. About 60% of the lake lies in the latter region.

4.     It is 134 km long with a maximum width of 5 km in its broadest part.

5.     This glacial lake freezes completely during winters despite its saline water.

6.     It is also known as Pangong Tso which means high grassland lake in Tibetan language.

7.     Pangong Lake is in disputed territory. Infiltrations from the Chinese side are common. The line of Actual Control passes through the lake.

8.     It is one of the highest lakes in India.

 After a lavish breakfast of continental and north Indian we set off, back to Leh on the same action-packed and dangerous route; again the plateau with yaks and pashmina goats grazing on its pastures, again the mountains, again the snow and snow wall. On the return journey I relaxed and absorbed the scenery because my focus was not destroyed with the urge to click photos.


Photographs: Bulbul Sur

Tags: Pangong, Yaks ,Marmots, Chang La

Holiness in the Hill and Valley. Thiksey Monastery, Ladakh

Holiness on the Hill 

Thiksey Monastery, Ladakh

The predominant religion of Ladakh is the Tibetan form of Buddhism. The Ladakhis practise religion on a daily basis which includes spiritual journeys to Gompas (Tibetan-style Monastery) where they spin the prayer wheel, chant mantras and recite prayers. Hence, there are many ancient and famous monasteries in this region especially in close vicinity of Leh, a city in the Union Territory of Ladakh.

Thiksey Monastery

Thiksey Monastery

 Thiksey (also Thikse) Monastery is located about 19 kms south of Leh at an altitude of almost 3,600 m (11,800ft) on a sacred hill, in the Thiksey village on the Leh-Manali highway. On the way to this Monastery we saw Rancho’s school of the famed film, ‘Three Idiots’. There are roadside cafes galore, each proclaiming loud and clear through their signboards, “Rancho Café.”

 Thiksey Monastery is one of the most famous and the second largest Monastery in Ladakh after Hemis Monastery. It is mostly white with red and yellow painted in some parts. The yellow building contains the Assembly Hall and the red building has the shrine of the Guardian Deity. Thiksey Gompa is also referred to as ‘mini Potala’ because of its resemblance to Potala Palace (former official seat of the Dalai Lama) of Lhasa in Tibet.

History

In 1433, a Buddhist monk from Tibet, Jangsem Sherab Zangpo,  with the blessings of the King of Ladakh, founded a small village Monastery , ‘Yellow Temple’ in Stagmo, north of the Indus. After a few years, in the mid-fifteenth century, his disciple Palden Zangpo decided to build a larger Monastery. One day, Sherab Zangpo and Palden Zangpo were offering prayers with Torma (ritual cake) near the ‘Yellow Temple’. Out of nowhere a crow grabbed the cake and flew away with it. Upon searching for the cake, the monks found that the crow had placed the  undefiled Torma  in a flawless manner on a stone, on top of a hill which was 3 kilometers away from Stagmo. The monks considered this unusual incident as a divine directive and built Thiksey Monastery in exactly that same place.

Pilgrimage

Our van drove uphill and deposited us at the parking area. There were again a few paces of steep climb until we entered the Monastery through a massive gate. At the foot of the hill is a large courtyard from where a flight of steps leads to the main Monastery.  Though they are wide yet it is very laborious because there are innumerable steps. There are platforms for taking rest  but still it is very arduous and I was on the verge of giving up.  But then I saw thin, poor, local boys climbing up the steps with stones tied in a sling on their backs .A renovation was going on in one part of the Monastery and this was how large blocks of stones were being transported to the great height. Perhaps this is their daily routine and means of livelihood. I shook off the inertia and after that I carried on with the onerous ascent.

Entrance of Thiksey Monastery

The courtyard of the Monastery is well fortified with a restaurant, facilities and a medicine shop. Thiksey Monastery is built on the slope of a hill and consists of 12 storeys. The buildings are arranged in an ascending order of importance. The dwelling units of monks are located at the foot of the hill and the Monastery and Potang (official residence of the Chief Lama) are located on top of the hill. The highest level of the complex has a Stupa.

Courtyard of Thiksey Monastery

The Monastery is huge. The main prayer room or assembly hall has a small, inner sanctum of Gautam Buddha. The center of the assembly Hall has a seat for Dalai Lama. The prayer room is large and dimly lit, with rows of monks chanting hymns and mantras .There is a large picture of Dalai Lama on one wall. Flash photography is not allowed inside.  It was the last prayer of the season (mid-August) and then the Monastery will be closed due to the onset of winter when everything will be under snow. The monks wore yellow caps because they were affiliated to the Gelug lineage that forms a part of the yellow hat sect of Tibetan Buddhism. The Dalai Lama is the head of the Gelug sect.

A Glimpse of the Prayer Room

To the right of the main courtyard and after climbing several steps is a new temple containing a 15 meters (49 feet) tall Buddha statue, covering two storeys of the building. It was constructed in 1970 to commemorate a visit to Thiksey by The Dalai Lama. It is said to be the largest Buddha figure in Ladakh and it represents Maitreya (compassion), The Buddha of the future. In the Monastery complex, besides the main prayer room, there are homes for about 100 monks, a nunnery and 10 temples of which Tara Temple dedicated to Goddess Tara holds pride of place. The Monastery also houses many items of Buddhist art such as statues, thangkas (Tibetan Buddhist painting), wall paintings and swords.

The scene from the topmost terrace and balcony of the Monastery is breathtakingly beautiful. It looks like a painting on a picture postcard---with the monumental Himalayan range on all sides. In its mighty lap are the floodplains of the Indus valley which is dotted with human habitation nestling among healthy forests and agricultural fields. But these villages are also the first victims of flash floods.

Thiksey Monastery is Holiness personified with its perfect backdrop of the silence of the hill, the majesty of mountain range proclaiming divine power and the picturesque Indus valley. 

Indus Valley

Photographs: Bulbul Sur.

Tags: Thiksey Monastery, Gelug Sect, Yellow Hats, The Dalai Lama, Indus Valley,.

Reliving Mahabharat Era: A Temple Built by Pandavs. Kileshwar Mahadev Temple

Reliving Mahabharat Era: A Temple Built by Pandavs.

Kileshwar Mahadev Temple

The remote Kileshwar Mahadev Temple nestled amidst foothills and forests acts like a tranquil balm on a troubled mind. It is about 91.1 km from Jamnagar city, via Jamnagar-Lalpur road, passing through Naghedi, Motikhavdi, Khambaliya and finally Kileshwar.

Since we started from Motikhavdi we had the advantage of a shortened route because Kileshwar is 50 km away from Motikhavdi. After completing the entire road encompassing the refinery, the outskirts, the labor colony, we came across quite a number of villages in Khambaliya Taluka.  Narrow roads with dense greenery on either side heralded the approaching of a village. Sometimes the road was so narrow that our vehicle had to step aside to allow a lorry to pass. The first village (that we came across) was small, with few houses and a bridge over a rivulet. The village in fact would appear beautiful in the monsoons but perhaps it would be isolated because of the low bridge. Even in winter the water was just below the bridge ; so in the monsoons the water might be flowing over it, thus making it inaccessible.  Towards the shore large rocks lay scattered hither and thither , rearing their peaks through the receding water. On those rocks sat a large group of sarus cranes and black herons, basking in the sun. That pretty village was very clean and that was in 2009, when Shri Narendra Modi was the chief minister of Gujarat, before his 2014 launch of Swachh Bharat Abhiyan (Clean India Mission) as a Prime Minister.

Then we came to another village with another water-kissed bridge over a stream. During heavy rains in the monsoon months this road might be out of bounds.

We reached the highway and came across one more bridge spanning a dry brook, full of boulders. In the monsoon this would be another precariously, beautiful scene when water would flow over it in torrents. And then we reached Lalpur Town .The houses are in a straight line, starting right from the road, with no plastic packets scattered around or stuck in the vegetation or floating in the water of drains. The road was narrow but the signboards proclaimed that it was a self-sufficient town. A village market (Haat) was going on. We noticed bus stations, ATMs, hotels, restaurants and a couple of guest houses in Lalpur. Shopping complexes, hospitals, petrol pumps, schools were also holding pride of place. Lalpur Jam Railway Station falls under Western Railway Zone; and Saurashtra Express, Howrah-Porbandar Superfast Express, Porbandar-Delhi Sarai Rohilla Express stop here. Lalpur is just about 34 km away from Govardhanpur Airport (Jamnagar airport) and takes approximately 38 minutes by road.

 Then we reached Bhanvad in Jamnagar district which is 18 km away from Kileshwar. Finally, we reached the entrance gate of Kileshwar. There is an admission fee at the gate. Ordinary cars, sedans, luxury cars are a big no, no. Only SUVs or hardy vehicles can travel through the last 10 km of this rocky road. Fuel tank must be full, tires in good condition, spare tire (Stepney) in top order because nothing will be available in this stretch.  The road is rocky by every imaginable standard. The rocks are small in some areas and big in others. The bumpy road is bounded by desert shrubs and medium height bushes. Barda hills, which we had witnessed from afar on our journey, seemed very near now. No public vehicle is available in this stretch. In fact, while we were returning from Kileshwar, a group of youth hitch-hiked in our Sumo.

The Camel and the Rocky Road

Except for a lone camel there was no other living being on that road.  We crossed two bridges spanning mountain brooks. The trees growing on the shore of those rivulets were of a peculiar shape, as if they were about to fall in the water but one of their roots had caught tenaciously to the soil thus preventing their descent. So the trees looked a little above the water and in very healthy condition.

Lotus-Filled Stream and the Descending Tree  

As we are about 2 km away from the temple we came across a village of just a handful of hutments. And then we entered the temple premises through the high regal gates. According to legend, Kileshwar Mahadev Temple was constructed by the Pandavs when they stayed there during their Vanvas (exile). This might have been a good place of seclusion for the Pandavs because even in the 21^st century it is quite isolated, bounded by the green Barda hills, dense forests, brooks and streams. 
The Shiv temple is situated on a raised platform and it is quite small. The architecture is Hindu temple architecture with semi-circular arches at the entrance of the sanctum and a tower-like dome or Shikhara on the topmost part ,just above the inner sanctum, the garbhagriha (where the primary Murti or the deity sits in a simple bare cell) . A Matka Kalash (pitcher-shaped pot)is used to top the  Shikhara. Near this main temple, there are other very small temples situated on a raised level.   There are no pestering pandas (pseudo priests) or beggars. So the pilgrims can offer their prayers to Kileshwar Mahadev peacefully. On one side of the temple is a high wall which is out of bounds because the private chambers of the king are beyond it. The titular king of Jamnagar, Jam Sahib, frequents this place because the temple is under his royal patronage. 
A historical inscription mentions that the temple was built  by the 'Pandayvas' 4000 years ago. Due to the constant change in the ruling dynasties of Kathawar and especially the kings of Ghumli, the place suffered neglect and 'Mahomedan depredations'. But it was restored by 'His Highness Maharaja Dheraj Jam Shri Ranjit Singhji Bahadur' of Jamnagar royalty. Some sources say that His Highness Jam Sahib wanted a darshan of a local saint, Pujya Shri Trikamji Bapu. But Bapu denied him the meeting. So Jam Sahib instructed his soldiers to lock him up in Kileshwar Mahadev Mandir. After five days, Jam Sahib went to have his darshan  , but when he opened the temple doors he found out that Bapu had escaped and there was only a tiger skin asan left behind and a sweet fragrance floating in the air. It is claimed that Jam Sahib  Ranjit Singhji never managed to get Bapu's 'darshan'  (source: www.trikamjibapu.com).   
Photography is not allowed inside the temple premises. 

Kileshwar Mahadev Temple (Courtesy:jamnargar.org)

Shiva Lingam, the Reigning Deity (Courtesy: jamnagar.org)

Around the temple complex there are other structures, so that the entire area runs into several acres. There is an ancient water reservoir called Revati Kund which is a bathing place for sightseers. A huge kitchen is also noticeable. There is a gigantic, ancient banyan tree called Ravan Tree.  The existing Havan Kund was said to be used by the second Pandav, Bhim for performing Yajna (Hindu Vedic ritual) but now it is used as a bird feeder. Exotic birds come to feed on the grains scattered there. There is also an ancient well.

Revati Kund

Havan Kund

Asian Paradise Flycatcher, a frequent visitor at the Bird Feeder (Photo: S.K. Sur)

Subsidiary Structures at the Complex

Peace and Contentment under Age-Old Trees

During the month of Shravan (July-August), about 2,500 to 5000 people from Jamnagar, Porbandar and Rajkot visit this place to worship Lord Shiva, the reigning deity of Kileshwar Mahadev Temple. It is also famous as a picnic spot because the place is idyllic with the calm, pellucid waters, huge trees and the Barda Hills standing as tutelage. Trekking is another option here in the company of silent forests, immobile hills, trills and cheeps of birds, susurration of the clean breeze, rustling streams and absolute solitude.      

Hills, Forests, Brook, Bridge and Perfect Desolation 

Photographs:  Bulbul Sur.


Tags: Kileshwar Mahadev, Pandavs, Jamnagar, Lalpur, Barda Hills, Trikamji Bapu, Jam Sahib

Photographs: Bulbul Sur