Pangong Lake

Pangong Lake

Ladakh,India

Pangong Lake is a 187 km drive from Leh. The journey was long (about five hours), adventurous and sometimes scary, as our driver steered his vehicle  through the interminable curves of the snaky road bordered by the Himalayan range. On our way we saw a turtled Sumo lying by the side of the road. Perhaps, after the accident the remnants of the sumo hurtled down the incline, where its motion was stopped by a boulder or a bush. The doors and windows of the vehicle were huge, rectangular caverns.

The Deep Gorge Below and the Slim,Treacherous Road Above, Winding the Himalayas  

Our journey continued. Alongside the road, men and women were cutting stones and carrying them in baskets on their heads. They were working hard but their attire and looks proclaimed loud and clear that they had trouble in making two ends meet. The stressful feeling of the precarious road was broken by pretty streams, surrounded with yellow, daisy-like flowers. One stream was quite broad but when the water flowed through flat land, it appeared stagnant as if frozen, so quiet was its flow. Its movement could be ascertained only when it plunged down in the gorge

A Mountain Stream

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The Himalayan mountain range surprised us at every turn, at every hairpin bend…decked sometimes in shadows, and sometimes bathed in sun rays, sometimes covered in green growth and sometimes mountain blue.

The Ever-changing Himalayas 

The army stopped us for a while because blasting was going on in the higher zones. We moved farther up. Sometimes the road lay transparent under water but that was actually melted snow from the upper regions. As we climbed higher up we came across a boundary wall of snow, Chang La Pass.

Chang La Pass

Chang La is on the route from Leh to Pangong Lake and is the second highest motorable road in the world. The pass remains open from mid-May to October. It is the third highest pass in the world, situated at an altitude of 17586 feet (5360m).

Snow Wall

This stretch of 10—15 km road requires very careful driving. Not only is the climb steep but the road is covered in snow and sludge which is created by small streams on the road due to the melting of snow in the upper regions.

 The mountain range surrounding it is the mighty Himalayas and it is covered in snow throughout the year. I went in August and there was snow everywhere, so you can imagine the condition in winters. Not only is the Himalayan range white but the road is bordered by walls of snow. There is a souvenir shop, and a tea-coffee restaurant, called Changla Cafeteria. There are toilets outside the cafeteria but the ladies toilet is absolutely filthy. One cup of tea at the café was 30 rupees and you have to drink it quickly or it would turn cold.

There are many inspiring writings on pedestals maintained by BRO (Border Road Organization) and the Indian army. On an army stand is written, “May Chang La Baba bless you.” Chang La Pass is said to be named after a famous sadhu Changla Baba and there is a temple dedicated to him nearby which is decorated with Tibetan flags. Chang La means Pass towards the South (Chang—South, La--Pass).A signboard of BRO read ‘Bro Himank—Connects the Heart of Ladakh.  Nothing great is ever achieved without enthusiasm.’ It was very heartening to see India’s flag on its pedestal.

Since Chang La is located very near to the Chinese border, it is guarded and protected by the Indian army. There is a Tea Point at Chang La where the Indian army serves tea free of cost. The world’s highest research center established by DRDO ( Defence Research and Development Organization) is fully functional in Chang La at a height of 17,500 feet.

At this height we suffered altitude sickness and dizziness and we could not stay for more that 20-25 minutes but the soldiers of the Indian army is working there relentlessly not only for the country but also for the tourists. There is a free medical aid center maintained by the army at Chang La. From there we climbed higher and higher .Then started the descent.

Way to Pangong Lake

The road above us, which we had left behind, was like a zigzag ribbon. It was no longer bordered by the mighty Himalayan range but by green valleys on which grazed yaks and pashmina goats. A family of marmots frolicked in the lush grass, posing at our cameras. The mountains were now at the distance with the pastures in between .We came across a signboard which told us to drive slowly because that’s the junction where marmots (endangered species) crossed the road.

Marmots

Yaks

Pashmina Goats

Pangong
We were silently enjoying the change of scenery -- from the challenging road between stupendous grave mountains and gorges to the soothing calming pastures. Suddenly our tour coordinator said, ‘Okay, now look to your left. One two and three!”

First View 

And that was our first view of Pangong Lake, like a saucer of deep blue water in the lap of the Himalayan range. As the cameras went clickety click, the lake came into full view, flowing serenely with the mountains bordering it. Is it blue or green or lapis lazuli? Oh, what an amalgamation of luxuriant colors! Near the road the lake appeared blackish, but farther away it became mountain bluish; then the cerulean layer started and a little farther it became light blue, then it turned turquoise. Synonym of  blue color was exhausted while describing its various shades. The actual lake is far, far beautiful than what we saw in the climactic scene of the film, ‘Three Idiots.’

Pangong Lake

We move farther and farther with the blue-green lake on our left side until the lake broadened, the mountains became more distinct and an abundance of man-high rose bushes with pinkish blossoms adorned the plains. My co-traveler, a Botanist, informed me that those were genuine roses having five petals. All the other types of roses are hybrid.

A Different Color of Pangong Lake

Abundance of Rose Bushes near Pangong Lake

Finally we reached our destination -- the campsite facing Pangong Lake. The exhilarating lake with its still water stretched before us framed by the mountains. Behind our tents the mighty Himalayan range almost touched the sky with its snow-capped peaks.

Our Campsite Flanked by the Mighty Himalayan Range Behind

                                                                                               Photo: Supplied

The Area Between the Campsite and the Lake

Play of Afternoon Light and Shade on the Lake and the Mountain 

Though the tents were near the lakefront, it was on a higher level. I climbed a few stone steps and reached my tent number 8.The tent was made of thick white canvas secured safely with sturdy cords to the poles stuck in the ground. The entry to the tent was through a flap as high as an ordinary door and it was zipped with larger than normal zips. The inside was very comfortable with a double bed, 2 sets of quilts, an extra mattress (with a pillow and a thick blanket) on the floor, and table lamps on either side of the bed.

The attached bathroom was carpeted in red. It had a western-style commode, a basin, a bucket , a mug and soap, water in taps, hot water on demand ;in short, everything necessary for a luxurious stay. There was also a rack with snow-white towels.

All the tents were supplied with two deck chairs. I sat in it and gazed at the mountains. The sun was setting behind our tents and its rays fell on the mountain before us. There were a few snow-covered peaks but with the sun rays, the surface of one mountain became yellow; another torso became shadowy, another turned beige. The blue and the green colors on the lake faded away and the water became bluish grey. As the sun set, the air turned freezing cold, the mountains became murky, the white clouds were swallowed in the dusky, colorless sky and before my very eyes I saw a wonderful sight. Snow started falling on the mountain top, slowly, imperceptibly. A peak of the Himalaya became matted with snow, until there was a thick mattress of snow on its top. The environment turned black with nightfall and only the whiteness of the snow glittered on the mountain crest.

Pangong Lake at Dusk

Snowfall on the Mountain at Nightfall

The mountains on the west had already become snow-capped for a considerable time. With the advancement of night, the climate became colder than a December- January one in the plains and we put on our jackets, gloves, coats and caps. There was also a solitary tent on the lower level which served as the kitchen and dining room. At eight we had a lavish dinner of rotis, rice, rajma, vegetable curry, sweet dish etc. The lunch was simple: rice, dal and cabbage. The polite staff looked after us very well considering the isolation of the place. The nearest market was many miles away making it more distant because of the twisting, rough road. One bottle of mineral water cost 60 rupees.

After dinner another round of enjoyment began. A bonfire was lit, with our driver pouring petrol on logs of wood. Due to the intense cold everybody huddled near the fire. The sky was covered with stars. This was astounding because after many, many years, I saw a star-filled sky. Nowadays in the cities we can only see the moon and Venus planet. There was lots of singing, dancing and merriment with the music played from the music system of our van. At half past ten the party broke up, because the generators would be switched off at 11 p.m. The generators are run on solar power. Then I slept soundly under the double quilt with the icy-cold mountain wind roaring outside.

Bonfire           

                                                                                                                       Photograph: supplied

The next morning I woke up at half-past five to watch the sunrise. The sky was still dark so were the mountains. The western mountains were still snow-capped. The water of the lake was navy blue. Then the sun rose piercing its rays through slate-grey clouds; just a few rays, the whole sun was not visible yet. A few minutes passed. The surface of the mountains was still dark, but their crests were white. Then suddenly the bright, yellow sun emerged. The sky was again lapis lazuli with misshapen white clouds and Pangong Lake had again taken the color of the sky. But one part of the water was green.

Grey Sky and Lake at Dawn

Sunrise on the Himalayas

Facts about Pangong Lake

Our knowledgeable Ladakhi guide, who spoke excellent English, informed us that people play ice hockey on Pangong Lake during winters because it becomes completely frozen. Chinese incursions also happen during winters through Pangong Lake.

Pangong Tso has several special features.

1.     It is an endorheic lake in the Himalayas which means it is internally drained having no outlet to rivers or oceans. The lake retains water and never dries up. It is a mountain-locked lake. It is not part of the Indus basin area. 

2.     It is situated at a height of about 4,350m (14,270 feet).

3.     It extends from India to the Tibetan Autonomous Region, China. About 60% of the lake lies in the latter region.

4.     It is 134 km long with a maximum width of 5 km in its broadest part.

5.     This glacial lake freezes completely during winters despite its saline water.

6.     It is also known as Pangong Tso which means high grassland lake in Tibetan language.

7.     Pangong Lake is in disputed territory. Infiltrations from the Chinese side are common. The line of Actual Control passes through the lake.

8.     It is one of the highest lakes in India.

 After a lavish breakfast of continental and north Indian we set off, back to Leh on the same action-packed and dangerous route; again the plateau with yaks and pashmina goats grazing on its pastures, again the mountains, again the snow and snow wall. On the return journey I relaxed and absorbed the scenery because my focus was not destroyed with the urge to click photos.


Photographs: Bulbul Sur

Tags: Pangong, Yaks ,Marmots, Chang La