Abu Simbel

And my tryst with the Great Temple’s Solar Configuration

Abu Simbel in Egypt comes under Aswan Governorate, upper Egypt, and the complex is famous for two huge, sandstone, rock-cut temples. The builder of those temples was the great Pharaoh , Ramesses II who ruled for 67 years. The construction of the temples started  approximately in 1264 BC. It went on for 20 years and was completed in 1244 BC which was roughly the 24^th year of Ramesses’ reign. The Great Temple is dedicated to  himself and the Small Temple is dedicated to his chief queen, Nefertari.

The name of the region is Nubia. It is part of the UNESCO World Heritage site known as ‘Nubian monuments’. Nubia was important to Ramesses II because it was a ‘source of gold and many other precious trade goods.’ To show his power to the Nubians, Ramesses II built many mighty temples and the most noteworthy  were the above-mentioned ones.  The temples were covered in sand as it was abandoned. It was rediscovered between 1813-1817 by Swiss orientalist Johann Ludwig Burckhardt  and Italian explorer Giovanni Betzoni.  

The Great Temple and the Small Temple are located on the western bank of Lake Nasser. However, this is not the original site where the temples were built. They  were originally located in Aswan at the second waterfall of Nile river. The Aswan High Dam was being constructed and upon its completion the temples faced the danger of being flooded under the rising waters of the Nile. 

 

View of the Great Temple from the west. photo:William Henry Goodyear (before 1923) Wikimedia commons

Between 1964 and 1968   with the help of  “multinational team of archaeologists , engineers and skilled heavy equipment operations,” “working together under the UNESCO banner,” the entire site was “cut into large blocks”  ,dismantled, lifted and reassembled in a new location 65 m higher  and 200 m away from the river.

A Scale Model at the Nubian Museum, Aswan, showing the Original site of the Temples and the Relocated Site with respect  to the Water Level
Courtesy:Wikimedia commons

Solar Configuration

Abu Simbel is not only famous because of the aforementioned temples but also because of the architecture of the Great Temple pertaining to solar orientation. The ancient Egyptian architects constructed the Great Temple in a unique way. The temple faces east at a precise angle. Twice a year, on February 22 and October 22,the first sun rays creep about 185 feet into the cavernous interiors of the temple, all through its corridor, its large chambers, narrow halls and enters the inner sanctum where there are four statues. It falls perpendicularly on the back walls of the innermost shrine and illuminates three statues , namely, Ramesses II, the sun gods Ra-Horakhty and Amun . The fourth statue is the Theban God of darkness, Ptah, who remains in the shadows throughout the year because ancient Egyptians believed that he should not be illuminated by sunlight until the end of the world.  This 3,300 year old phenomenon is concrete proof of the scientific, geometric, engineering, astrological, sculptural feat of ancient Egyptians. The dates were chosen for a specific reason. February 22 was Ramesses II’s birthday and was celebrated as the ‘feast of king Ramesses II’ and October 22 was the day when he ascended the throne and was celebrated as the ‘feast of the coronation of the king’. People from all over the world gather at Abu Simbel on these days to witness this divine mystery and I was one among the enormous global populace to be a part of this engineering miracle on February 22. There is some confusion about the duration of the sunrays inside the sanctuary: some say it lasts for about twenty minutes, perhaps a little more or a little less and some say it lasts only for six minutes.

Sunrays Illuminating the Faces of Three Statues in the Innner Sanctuary
Author:UNESCO, Wikimedia commons

The Journey

We started from Aswan at about eleven p.m. The motorable distance between Aswan and Abu Simbel is roughly 300 km . It is approximately a four-hour journey by road. My hotel (Helnan Hotel) had given us packed breakfast. Like us, from all over the world people had decided to see the Great Temple of Abu Simbel on February  22. Hence there was a mad rush. A steady stream of vehicles either zoomed past us or followed us because all roads led to Abu Simbel. What was amazing were the shops along the roadside. They were all open and the guide told us that this was an usual thing in Egypt. Midway along our journey a policeman hopped into our bus, presumably as our escort due to the mad rush.

The climate in Aswan was comfortable but when we reached Abu Simbel it was biting cold such was the treacherous climate in Egypt. We reached there in the dark at about 4 a.m. The area was crawling with people .Many vehicles were already at the parking lot. At the security check there was a long line. We had to put all our belongings under the scanner. After the security check we walked for some time through lanes which were not very well-lit, only just. Then we reached the temples. The security was stupendous. The temples were illuminated in soft lights and they changed hue so that the statues looked larger and mysterious in the sometimes darkish, sometimes glowing lighting aesthetics. There was no bright illumination in the vicinity of the temple  because the mysterious impact of the faintly-lit statues would be diminished. 

Lighting Arrangement At the Temple

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Dark and Mysterious in the Faint Light

Perhaps, the police were guarding the premises from the top of the temples because lights from the higher zones emitted frequently. We could not see the ground and the faces of the people; only dark heads and a glimpse of the surroundings through the intermittent flash of mobile cameras. Sometimes I felt that there might be a gorge or at most a ditch and I might fall into it due to the jostling. But that was not to be. At the edges of the mammoth gathering policemen created a rope corridor for tourists and prevented us from going backwards beyond a certain point. Since a portion of the whole world had gathered there the security arrangement was foolproof.

The Great Temple

Massive Crowd Before the Great Temple

Just Before Dawn -Break 

Gradually we could smell the morning air. There was a murmur of anticipation  as the dawn broke in degrees . The darkness was vanishing and a grey light emanated. The greyness slowly engulfed the whole sky and soon an  eggshell-white morning greeted us. We waited with bated breath for the sun to rise any minute but where was it? The sky was not rosy towards the east .It was grey as ever and covered in fog. Time passed but the greyness of the morning didn’t seem to leave us. The wind was still chilly but not as biting as the night. The huge gathering still didn’t lose hope; never mind, a few more minutes and  the sun will rise. But no such luck. Finally, the sun peeped through the clouds, a pale replica , as pale as it can be of its fiery self. The weak rays did not reach anywhere so there was no view of the sunrays illuminating the  statues inside the sanctuary.

The Pale Sun  and the Grey Morning

A Disheartened Crowd before the Weak Sunrays 

A melancholia gripped the massive crowd. I was very disheartened but it reduced when I saw the temples in morning light. The Great Temple is dedicated to Ra-Horakhty, Ptah and Amun, Egypt’s three state deities of the time and features 4 large statues of Ramesses II in the façade. I stood in awe at the sight of those massive, sandstone creations.

The Great Temple in the Pale Morning

 No wonder, the Great Temple is considered to be the grandest and most beautiful of all the temples commissioned during the reign of Ramesses II. The colossal statues (66 feet high) of Ramesses II flanks the entrance to the temple   Each statue is seated on a throne and wears double crowns signifying lower and upper Egypt.It is known as Temple of Ramesses,beloved by Amun.

The Damaged Statue amidst the Massive Ones
Photo: Onder Kokturk, Wikimedia commons

 One statue which is situated left to the entrance was damaged in an earthquake. As a result its head and torso fell off. During relocation, those fallen pieces were placed at the statue’s feet  because that was the place where it was originally found.  The smaller statues next to Ramesses’ feet represents his family members: wife, mother, sons and daughters.  

The Single Entrance to the Great Temple
 Photo:Than217, Wikimedia Commons

The temple has a single entrance and it was tiny compared to the huge statues outside. The halls were also medium sized ,not the gargantuan garths of the temple interiors in India. We had to see the interiors in artificial lights  but I can only imagine how the interiors would look when sunlight touched them and made them brilliantly-lit with natural light. The walls are adorned with friezes.

A Bas -Relief on the Wall Depicting a Battle Scene

A Frieze Depicting Worship

The Inner Hall

A Frieze in the Great Temple depicting Ramesses II making an Offering to Horus  

The Small Temple is dedicated to Hathor, the Goddess of love and music,  personified by Nefertari, Ramesses’ most beloved of his many wives. It is a miniature and simplified copy of the Great Temple. The façade has six standing statues over 30 feet high of Ramesses II and his deified wife, Nefertari. They are flanked by smaller statues of their children.

Close View of Nefertari's Temple
Photo: Than217, Wikimedia commons

   

Global Populace before the Small Temple

The Two Temples 

Hieroglyphic Scripts at the Entrance of the Small Temple

Source :Wikipedia

Photographs:Bulbul Sur

Tags: Abu Simbel, Solar alignment

 

Sea-City Porbandar

 A Land of  Mythology,History,Astronomy,Culture and Spirituality.                                    

Porbandar, a city in Gujarat, lies in the south-west coast of the Arabian Sea. It is chiefly famous as the birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi. There is only a passing reference to the sea or no reference to it at all. But Porbandar has a tourist identity of its own with its mythology, history, temples and the wonderful, scenic ,peaceful chowpatty (beach). Not only that, it is situated in close proximity to world-famous places of Hindu pilgrimage. It is flanked by Dwarka, Somnath, Bileswar ,all within a time limit of a  couple of hours or sometimes less :hardly a distance of  an hour’s journey by road. Dwarka is about 102-105 km and Somnath is less than 120 km; Junagadh, the historical city is 112 km, and Sasan Gir National Park , the home of Asiatic lions is about 166-170 km from Porbandar.

History                  Sea-City Porbandar

Porbandar is known since ancient times because it is the birthplace of Sudama (Lord Krishna’s friend).Hence it also known as Sudamapuri.

Porbandar city was named after Goddess Parav. Bandar means harbor.  It is an ancient port city. Maritime activity continued here on the Saurashtra coast  since  the Harappan time in the 16-14 centuries BCE (1600-1400).There was a flourishing trade from here to Africa and the Persian Gulf.

 Many years ago it was called Pao Bandar due to its bread factories. The bread called pao ruti was made here and exported to Arab countries. 

The Jethwa clan of Rajputs ruled Porbandar since the mid-16^th century. After being subjugated by the Mughal governor of Gujarat ,conquered by the Marathas in the latter half of the 18^th century, it came under the authority of the Gaekwad royal court at Baroda and eventually of the Peshwas. In 1807 it came under the British Raj. After independence the state was acceded to the dominion of India.(Source:Wikipedia)

Commerce

The main economy of Porbandar survives on tourism and fisheries. The beach is known as chowpatty locally. There is a wide range of hotels on the beach. Dhows are still built here and fish-drying is an important activity. Porbandar is also the producer of gold and silver trinkets and it manufactures fine quality silk and cotton.

The Journey

We started from Jamnagar Reliance Township at 12 p.m. We crossed Khambaliya and then took a turn towards Porbandar. The road was narrow and sometimes gravelly but it was tree-lined with agricultural farmlands on either side. The scene was very soothing .  The fields were mainly cultivated with ground nuts. We went on 31^st  October when  the fields had been  harvested and tiny green  saplings of wheat were carpeted on the fields ready to be sown. Some fields were sown with ladies’ fingers and they  were already tall with a hint of lemon-yellow flowers. Men were rounding off the crops in a high mound  while a large group of snow-white herons watched the proceedings with undivided attention: standing too close for comfort near the farmers yet with a fearless attitude. On some fields the farmers sat under the shade of a tree in a group eating their lunch.

Our journey continued. The road was sparsely lined with trees. In some areas the spiky  stems bore green leaflings and though they formed a cluster with their closely knit trees, still they were too insufficient to block the harsh afternoon sunlight. Suddenly the road became dark with a line of thickly-foliaged huge trees standing as colonnades on either side and making the road dark like a moonless night.      

Then we saw a tiny stream trickling, bordered by green vegetation and we knew we were in the vicinity of a farm house. Sure enough, after long tracks of cultivated, harvested fields we suddenly saw a white and cream hued, two-storey house through the thick grove of coconut trees. At a safe distance away there were some ramshackle huts.

Wherever our eyes reached there were green fields , rivulets, thin strands of tricking water forming streams and meadows populated with birds especially white and grey herons.

As we neared Porbandar, the roads widened. We crossed a bridge, with freshly-painted white railings to arrive at asphalt-paved smooth, wide roads. Porbandar has arrived: a neat city with an air of tranquillity, grace and elegance.

Places of Tourist Attraction in Porbandar

 Bharat Mandir

Bharat Mandir

The Bharat Mandir is worth a look because it is a  culmination of entire India :her illustrious sons, her famous places, her Gods and Goddesses. The idol of Bharat Mata is in the main hall. You climb a couple of steps and come across  a gallery where a huge relief map of India adorns the floor. The main building is two-storey and rectangular, standing in a verdant complex. It showcases India’s rich history and heritage. There are pictures and sculptures of Hindu mythology and history, artifacts of Indian culture. Paintings and quotes adorn the surrounding wall and pillars. It is a very educative place as well as pleasing to the eye and an ideal destination not only for students but also for the general populace. Photography is allowed in Bharat Mandir.

Planetarium

The Planetarium is just opposite the Bharat Mandir. The ticket fee is nominal. It is called Akash Griha. It is also called Shri Jawaharlal Nehru planetarium. It is the fifth planetarium in India after the planetariums in Pune, Delhi, Muzaffarpur and Kolkata (sequentially).It was opened in 1965. It was sponsored by Nanjibhai Kalidas Mehta, an industrialist and philanthropist of Porbandar. The planetarium has a gallery dedicated to Quit India Movement. It is the first of the three  8m dome planetariums with ZeiSS ZK P1 projectors. The other two planetariums with such features are in Vijayawada and Surat.

 Kirti Mandir

Kirti Mandir: Entrance to Gandhiji's House
 (Photo:Jaydip3212, wikimedia commons)

Another place which gives Porbandar its hallowed identity is of course Kirti Mandir , the birth place of Mahatma Gandhi. It is a memorial house in remembrance of Mahatma Gandhi and Kasturba Gandhi. But the location is in a crowded locality, through narrow lanes zigzagging around old houses and shops. We had parked our car at Sudama Chowk and from there we took an auto to Kirti Mandir.

 Kirti Mandir was actually built due to Nanjibhai Kalidas Mehta’s efforts and money. He created a trust and convinced Gandhiji to sell his ancestral house to the trust so that it could be preserved as a memorial. 

Gandhiji's Ancestral House
(Photo:Rohit Agarwal,wikimedia commons)

Gandhiji’s house is kept in very good condition. It is a typical Kutch style of architecture built in a haveli style. It was bought in 1777 by Gandhiji’s grandfather and subsequently new floors and wings were added to it. The house is three-storey with 24 rooms. The doors are low and the windows are small. The inside is dark and cool. This ancestral house of Gandhiji is entered through the museum. There is a large courtyard at the entrance and the museum is built around it. Photographs are displayed on the walls of the slim veranda lining the corridor. There is no entry fee. Photography is prohibited . This museum which is adjacent to the house has rare and very old  photographs of Gandhiji. The glass almirah houses his memorabilia and utensils used by him –a tea kettle for example. There is a library that has books written by Gandhiji  and books (by other authors) propounding his philosophy.

Sudama Mandir (Temple)

Sudama Mandir

The Sudama temple dates back to the first decade of the 20^th century. It was built in 1902-1908 by H.H. Bhavsinghji Madhavsingji , the Maharaja of Porbandar on the site of a 12^th century temple. Sudama was Lord Krishna’s close friend in whose memory the temple is built. The noteworthy feature is the elaborately carved shikara (tower ) and the arcade supported by beautiful marble pillars encompassing the entire temple. The multifoil arches are delicately carved. The spandrels of the arches are  intricately designed. There is also a Sudama Kund (well) with steps leading down but it has been secured by an  aluminium net.

The Kund

Shri Hari Mandir

Shri Hari Mandir

Shri Hari Mandir is another attraction of Porbandar. It is located in the campus of Sandipani Vidhyaniketan, a renowned Gurukul. The Gurukul is an epicenter for practical training of rituals given to Rishikumars. It is a focal point of culture and spirituality. The Mandir is dedicated to many Gods: such Lakshmi Narayan, Radha Krishna, Shri Hanumanji, Shri Ganesh, Karunamayi Ma. It is said to be one of the biggest temple in Saurashtra. Tourist footfall is also the most in this sacred place.

The Aesthetic Campus of Shri Hari Mandir 

 Jambavan/Jambavant Cave

This cave dates back to the Ramayan age. It is just 17 km from Porbandar railway station. This ancient cave is located at Ranavav near Porbandar city. It is situated near Saurashtra Cement factory.

Jambavan Cave or Jambavan ki Gufa was the resting place of the warrior Jambuvan, the divine king of bears created by Lord Brahma to assist Lord Ram against Ravan. It is believed that this is the place where Lord Krishna and Jambuvan fought for the Syamantaka jewel for 28 days. When Jambuvan understood that his opponent was Lord Krishna  he withdrew from the battle and gave the jewel to Sri Krishna. There is an exact spot in the cave marking the encounter of Jambuvan with Sri Krishna where he gave Sri Krishna not only the jewel but also his daughter’s hand in marriage. The cave has 50 Shivlingas which are natural formations.  There are two tunnels inside the cave :one leads to Dwarka and the other to Junagadh.

The Beach

Then we came to the beach. There was a lone restaurant on the beach called Jamuna restaurant. The ambience is excellent because the windows open to the sea and it is  a great experience to sip a cold drink and gaze at the sea. There are many good hotels opposite the beach and we stayed in one of them. You just climb down a flight of steps from your hotel campus, cross the road and voila! The sea is here. The sea is unique because there are reefs which form table cloth-sized bays.

The sunset is a good view with the waters and the sky becoming rainbow tinted with different hues: grey, pink, crimson, maize yellow , cement –grey all stretched like a semicircle.

The Sun in its Last Legs

Enchanting Stages of Sunset

The reefs were a sight to behold. They looked like dried ant hills with stalagmite-like steeples and hollows. We went down to the beach to wash our feet. It was a sight to watch the waters rushing in and filling the hollows of the reef like a game of bagatelle.

The Reefy Coastline

Small Bays Formed by Reefs

Reefs Washed by the Sea  

Sea Inundating the Reefs

The Sea at Dusk

The beach became crowded in degrees: first the occasional walkers and tourists, then people in groups and lastly the vendors with their carts of green coconuts, chips etc. lining up the road. Since vehicular traffic of all types are banned on the beach road, the people walked and frolicked freely. There were semi-circular promenades. The beach was unearthing more beauties as we walked farther on. There were lots of stone benches and round stone stools for sitting.  There were many erstwhile bungalows and new houses  opposite the beach.

But what struck our attention was a massive, beige –hued  palace  on the beach called Huzoor Palace. It stretched from end to end. Its length and breadth were colossal though it was just two-storeyed.

As the sun set, the evening turned darker and the moon on Huzoor Palace looked brighter.

The Sea after Sunset

Huzoor Palace

Huzoor Palace Stretching from End to End on the Beach
(photo:Milanraninga80 wikimedia commons)

The Royal Palace in Porbandar is called Huzoor Palace and it is situated in Chowpatty Beach. It is a historical place and one of the most sought after tourist attraction. It was built by Natwar Singhji, the last ruler of the princely state of Porbandar during the early 20^th century. It is also known as Raj Mahal. It stands on the sea shore. Its innumerable, large windows on both the floors open to the  sea.

Architectural Beauty of Huzoor Palace
(Photo: wikimedia commons)

It is built in the style of European architecture with semi-circular porticoes with neo-classical columns, fountains and gardens. Visitors are not allowed inside the palace but during Navratri festival people come here to pay respect to royalty.

The Huzoor Palace along the Seafront

The early morning was another scene on the chowpatty, also referred to as Marine Drive. As the grey morning unfolded swimmers and potential swimmers lined up on the beach. There was a swimming school on the beach and also a changing room. Many boys, girls and semi-adults jumped into the water to swim or to learn swimming.

The Neat Beach at Dawn

The Sea in the Morning

Dugong

Porbandar is ‘one of the  last coasts remaining where the threatened marine mammal dugong can be found’ (Wikipedia).It is called ‘daria ka gai’by local fishermen which means sea-cow.

                   Dugong Mother and Calf (wikimedia commons)

A carcass believed to be of a dugong was found in May 2012 on the chowpatty coastline near Porbandar.

Towards Somnath

The journey from Porbandar to Somnath is enchanting. We crossed a cement factory, Saurashtra chemicals and a Kendriya Vidyalaya and moved towards Somnath. We again crossed a bridge with moderate water running below and freshly-painted white railings with the sun rising above it.The sea was nowhere in the vicinity. The houses were neat and tidy, not  any great work of architectural skill. There were however some ramshackle mansions with bosky gardens, whitish, closed windows, paint –peeling and darkish walls. They look abandoned. Probably when they were made  the owners of the houses could see the sea right from their verandas. 

We felt sad that we had left the sea behind us but that was not to be because we saw the sea at a great distance. It was all along with us  and just when we felt that the sea was far away, we travelled just a bit and the sea was right next to the highway; so near as if the  with white foam on the sea were lashing at us. We had reached Madhopur beach.

The beach is about 2-3 km in length.There were a couple of seating arrangements below shades and of course coconut sellers.Madhopur town also had old houses by the sea: sad, dark and derelict.People who live near the sea should not have any sorrow because all sorrows and lack pale into insignificance before the illimitableness of the sea signifying man’s potential and his beauty which are far, far greater and stronger than man’s sorrow.

And then started the huge coconut farms over many acres of land,  the ground dark with their extensive foliage . An occasional elegant farmhouse stuck out through the leaves. Some trees looked so close as if the barks would entwine each other .The coconut trees near the road were at a suitable distance. And just by the side of the road were very old banyan trees with their roots reaching down to the ground.

Then we reached Somnath. Om Namay Sivah. We parked our car at a distance and walked all the way. Cameras are not allowed inside the temple but there are professional photographers who gave us almost instant photographs.

The sea could be seen from the temple top .The beach was crowded with shops ,coconut sellers ,camel rides, horse and pony rides.

Distance

Jamnagar to Porbandar is 130 km We went at an average speed of 60 miles per hour and it took us one hour twenty minutes.

Porbandar is well connected. There are flights from Mumbai, Delhi, Ahmedabad. Trains run from Porbandar to Mumbai Central, New Delhi (NDLS), Delhi Sarai Rohilla, Kochuveli (Kerala) and Howrah (Kolkata). Buses run by State Transport Corporation and private enterprises connect Porbandar to Ahmedabad ,Dwarka, Veraval(near Somnath), Diu, Rajkot, Vadodara, Junagadh etc.             

 

Tags: Mahatma Gandhi, Sea, Planetarium, dugong, Sudama

Photographs:Bulbul Sur

                                       Gerasa: Founded and Lost

                                                     Jerash, Jordan

Jerash is  the perfect example of a Greco-Roman site. It is called the ‘Pompeii of the Middle East’/ 'Pompeii of Asia' due to its ‘size, extent of excavation and level of preservation’.In Greek and Roman times the city was known as Gerasa.After the Muslim conquest in 635 AD, it was renamed as Jerash. The location of ancient Jerash ruins will remind you about Rome or Jaipur. Just as the ruins of Roman Empire are in the bustling city of modern Rome; and the historic Hawa Mahal, City Palace and Jantar Mantar are in Jaipur’s hub, so the Jerash ruin lies in the heart of the city. On the other side of the ruins is the contemporary city of Jerash and only the modern highway separates it from the ancient  Gerasa city, albeit in a ruinate state.

The Ancient Walkway juxtaposed with the Modern Road. Temple of Zeus on Top Left

As we walk past Gerasa's Hippodrome and move towards its South Gate, we see the modern road by our side, with commerce thriving robustly in today's Jerash. 

Location

Jerash is just a forty minutes’ drive from Jordan’s capital city, Amman. It lies in a quiet valley between the mountains of Gilead. Jerash encompasses the north and south of the valley. The ruins of Jerash are at an altitude of 500 m (1640.42 feet). A perennial stream runs through the middle of the valley which does not dry even in summer, since times immemorial.

With such a fine, ancient water supply it is but natural that Jerash had human settlements since ancient times.

History

The earliest settlers were Neolithic as is proved by the excavations of flint implements found on the slopes, east of the Triumphal Arch. 

The Triumphal Arch

There are evidences of Bronze  Age as early as  2500 B.C. and also Iron Age. In the settlements near the ruins of Jerash and on the hilltops are remains of Dolmens (megalithic tombs ) earlier than Bronze Age.

Antioch on the Chrysorrhoas

The glory of Jerash has many Founding Fathers. Jerash was  at one time called “Antioch on the Chrysorrhoas” (Antioch on the Golden River). Chrysorrhoas refers to the little perennial stream. Antioch probably refers to the Seleucid King Antiochus IV, who ruled in the 2^nd century B.C. and who transformed the little village of Jerash into a grand town. Seleucids built temples for Zeus, Hera, Apollo, Poseidon, Artemis and Nemesis.

Some inscriptions suggest that Alexander the Great founded Jerash, some attribute to his General Perdiccas in the 4^th century B.C. Egypt’s Ptolemy II (285-246 B.C.),the king who changed Amman into the Greek city of Philadelphia, is also credited for the glory of Jerash. Perhaps all of them contributed to the building of this magnificent Greek town, Gerasa.     

Roman Era

Jerash is a complete example of a Roman city and is a fine specimen of the powerful Roman rule in the Middle East. In 63 B.C. Pompey the Great, the famous Roman general and statesman who transformed Rome into Roman Empire from a Roman Republic ,   won  the Near East (roughly corresponding to modern Middle East)and divided it into provinces. Gerasa and its lands were attached to Syria. This was the landmark period of Gerasa’s development. From then, till the middle of the first century AD, Gerasa was peaceful. This peace brought stability which allowed the rulers to focus on development. It became known as a Roman commercial city and it flourished as a trade epicenter. It traded with the Nabataeans, as many coins of the Nabataean King, Aretas IV, has been found. It became part of Roman Decapolis which means it was included in a group of ten influential cities that made up the Roman Empire’s eastern border.

The area of Jerash ruins is about 800,000 square yards. We passed through a shady, covered area (huge courtyard of sorts) which was lined with shops selling local goods. They were very costly. A small bag cost forty dollars. But the shopkeepers were offering shawls for three dinars. There was a juice kiosk too. We climbed a few steps and entered the ruin site. As we walked farther through the wide lane, we noticed rows of horse stables with arched openings. We had reached the Hippodrome.

Hippodrome

Directly after Hadrian 's Arch , lies the Hippodrome. During Roman times, chariot racing was  organised here in front of 17,000 spectators. The Hadrian's Arch and the Hippodrome are outside the South Gate which is the main gate through which tourists enter the ancient city of  Gerasa.Around the  edges of the Hippodrome are  a line  of  horse stables which are no less architecturally eye-catching with their rows of arches.  This 2000 year- old chariot racing stadium is still used by RACE (Roman Army and Chariot Experience)during festivals when race of charioteers and  gladiatorial fights are held to ignite the imagination of spectators.   

The 10 Starting Gates of the Carceres

A Closer View of Middle Gate of the Arched Carceres

 

The Hippodrome has ten starting gates  (Carceres)as opposed to the usual 12. This is the place where the horses would be positioned. It is one of the smallest-known Hippodromes of the Roman era and also the best preserved. It is 265 m long and 50 m wide.The seating area is 4 m deep with 16 rows of seats.

 

The Carceres and Racing Track of the Hippodrome  Photo:Bernard Gagnon, Wikimedia Commons 

The Hippodrome was functional from 220 AD to 749 AD.It was probably completed in the early third century AD and by the late fourth century AD, it was transformed into an amphitheatre for gladiatorial combats and other sports.  

Between the sixth and eighth centuries AD, the monument was used as a quarry, and materials taken from here was used to repair the city wall.In the 8th century it became a mass grave for the hurried burial of plague victims.But the final blow was dealt by the Galilee earthquake (749 AD) which destroyed the fine structure. 

An Ancient Stable  

A Stable with Double-sided Entrance

 

The Neat Curves of the Arches

A Distant View of the Carceres

A Rear View of the Seating Arrangement in the Hippodrome

The South Gate

 

The South Street

The Wide Road leading to the South Gate 

The South Gate

We walked through the principal entrance of the South Gate and came across rows and rows of colonnades (columns) which housed the main ancient thoroughfare, the Cardo Maximus. No wonder, Jerash is called 'The city of Thousand Columns'.

The Cardo

The Cardo is a 800 m (2,625 ft) length ,colonnaded ,straight road, built in the 2nd century AD. It ran through the length of the city. The flagstones are marked by thousands of chariots that ran over it during ancient times. 

A Portion of Cardo

Colonnades, the Limestone-paved Road and the Sidewalk

 Cardo was Gerasa's main street and it is lined by Corinthian columns, i.e. slender columns with acanthus-leaf capital.The workers in that far-away Roman age were very skilled as their work manifests and the ruling dispensation was not only very wealthy to afford such craftsmen but also had excellent taste.  The most important places on the street during Roman times are marked by taller columns. Shops and temples used to border the street on either side.

Ancient Jerash flanked by Modern Jerash (in White) 

The Oval Forum

The Forum is the most sought-after tourist spot in Jerash This elliptical forum is in the heart of the ancient city and it links Cardo Maximus with the Temple of Zeus.It is over 90 m long and 80 m wide at its widest point.It was  constructed in the middle of the 1st century AD.   

A Portion of the Magnificent Forum

The Colonnades on Low Blocks

The forum is surrounded by 160 unfluted, Ionic columns or colonnades.The columns stand on low blocks.

Ancient Flagstone-paved Road 

It perhaps served as a market place and also as a focal point of the city's social and political life.

Ruins near the Forum

In the middle of the 1^st century A.D. Jerash was on  a restructuring mode. It had become a wealthy town. Prosperous citizens of Jerash contributed freely for the making of markets,temples, theatres, pools and shrines.

 

Military Barracks

We walked further straight and took a left turn where we came across a round structure which was a market place, a sort of mall for the rich.   

 Macellum and Agora

Macellum is an ancient Roman market or market building, especially a meat market.Agora was the main food market/grocery market of the Roman period and it was positioned around a central, cruciform  fountain in a courtyard.The fountain is surrounded by Corinthian columns. The market was built by Tiberius Alexandros,governor of  Gerasa in 130 AD .   

The Fountain surrounded by Corinthian Columns

Outside this circular structure  there were porticoes and other shop-like enclosures. One enclosure had  sculptures of a cow’s head and a buffalo’s head and that was the butcher’s shop. One part of the parapet gave out musical sounds when hit gently with a stone.

A Column with a Human Head in its Capital

There were rows of pillars and one pillar had a human head in its capital, which meant , the seat of the king was below it.

Porticoed Market

Roman Roads

The Ancient Road

The ancient, original roads in Jerash still exist. Roads played an important part in Roman empire building. They helped in the smooth and swift march of the Roman army .Better roads also helped to build better trade and information routes.In AD 106 ,Emperor Trajan constructed roads throughout the province . As a result more trade came to Gerasa.The roads are excellent  specimen of Roman engineering aptitude. The plaza in the oval forum is paved with high quality limestone slabs.  

 Temple of Zeus

We came out of the ancient market and arrived at a different place of  the colonnaded road. We had reached the Temple of Zeus.

Temple of Zeus

This temple was built in 162-163 AD over the remains of an earlier Roman Temple.It is built on the summit of a hill, the highest point in Gerasa from where we can get a panoramic view of the old city far below. It was approached by a magnificent stairway leading from the Temenos (sacred courtyard) where sacrifices used to take place.

Temple of Zeus with its Niches and Altars

 Sanctuary of Zeus Temple and Oval Plaza

The sanctuary of  the Temple of Zeus is harmoniously connected to the Oval Forum. The Cardo or main street was widened in an oval shape in front of the principal access point to the sactuary where the  Oval Forum meets the temple.

Zeus Temple and the South Theatre on the Right

South Theatre or Roman Amphitheatre.

The Porticus and Scaenae Frons

Our next stop was the Roman Theatre which is beside the Temple of Zeus. We entered a narrow passage and then were ejected into a vast open space -- the huge, ancient amphitheatre: the hot seat of  performances for thousands of years. The effect was stupendous. A group of Bedouins were performing a show. 

 

The Architectural Beauty of  Scaenae Frons

 

The Caveas

We felt like Roman emperors sitting in the most important area of the cavea and watching the performance. There were lots of structures facing the theatre:–high platform with arches, wide pavilions. The area of this theatre was larger than the theatre in The Citadel, Amman. Like Amman's theatre, South Theatre  also  had an advanced system of acoustics. There is a focal point at the centre of the pit, just in front of the stage, which is marked by a distinct stone.From this point normal speaking could be heard throughout the auditorium , right up to the topmost seat.

The South Theatre was built in 90 AD,during the reign of  the Roman Emperor,Domitian.   

The Stage and the Proscenium

The Temple of Artemis

The Temple of Artemis is a Roman peripteral temple.It was built in 150-160 AD during the height of Gerasa's prosperity. The spectacular feature of this temple are the stone columns with Corinthian capitals which stand 39 feet  (13.20 m) tall and weighs over 20 tons.The columns were designed in such a way that they would sway during a earthquake.That's the reason that some of its columns withstood the Galilee earthquake .However, the temple was burnt by the Crusaders in 1121 AD when the Turkish army was using it as a fortress. 

The Temple of Artemis

Artemis, the Greek Goddess of the hunt,the wilderness, wild animals,the moon and chastity, was the tutelary deity of Gerasa.

The Arch of Hadrian (The Triumphal Arch) 

In the 2^nd century AD, Emperor Trajan extended the frontiers of his empire and built roads. More trade came in which resulted in greater wealth. Ornate structures were constructed. Two thermae or imperial baths were built. When the Roman Emperor, Hadrian visited the city (129-130) a spurt of construction activity was initiated. The Arch of Hadrian, also known as the Triumphal Arch, was erected to celebrate his visit.

The Cream-Coloured Hadrian's Arch

This triple-arched gateway is one of the largest -known arches of the Roman Empire.It is 25 m wide and 21.5 m high.The main gate or the middle arch is almost 11 m high and 6 m wide. 

The Wide Middle Arch

This cream-coloured  architecture is decorated with niches, arches and columns.A particular feature of the decoration of its Corinthian columns is that the acanthus is sculpted at the base of the pillar instead of the capitals at the top.

A View of  Gilead Mountain through Hadrian's Arch  

The Arch of Hadrian was built outside the city walls which signified that there were plans of expanding, of building a new city southwards and the gate was intended to be an entrance gate to that city.However, that expansion never happened due to political disturbances within Gerasa. The gate has dual facades:looking north towards the city and looking south towards the road. The distant Gilead mountains could be glimpsed through the opening of the arches which bespeak abundantly of the excellent aesthetics of Roman architects.  

Downfall of Jerash

Early in the 3^rd century A.D. the downfall of Jerash began. Jerash was on the trade route between Damascus and Petra; as well as on the trade routes running north and westwards towards the Mediterranean ports of Tyre (Lebanon) and Joppa/Jaffa (Israel). Jerash lost its strategic importance when trade routes shifted after Palmyra was destroyed and Sasanian kingdom evolved in Iraq.  The Roman force weakened in Gerasa. By the middle of the 4^th century, Christian influence grew in Gerasa. Many churches were built under the Byzantine Emperor, Justinian (527-565).

The Persian invasion in 614 A.D. struck the death-knell on Jerash. Muslim conquest in 635 A.D. made Jerash decline further. A series of earthquakes destroyed the magnificent architecture in Jerash; notable among them was Galilee earthquake in 749 which destroyed large parts. The ruins are left in the same state as they were when the colossal ,magnificent structures were felled by the earthquake. 

Ruins Of Gerasa

Subsequent  earthquakes happened and further destroyed the fine architecture of Jerash. Jerash is as famous as Pompeii .Pompeii was destroyed by a volcano and Jerash was destroyed by invasions and mostly by earthquakes.

 Capitals of  Corinthian Columns

Jerash is mentioned as Gerasa throughout the New Testament as part of the Decapolis with Jesus’ healing of two demoniacs who were living in the tombs ‘somewhere in the broader regions’ of Gerasa. In 1120, the Atabeg of Damascus, Toghtekin, built a fort in Jerash, which was captured and destroyed in 1121 by Baldwin II ,king of Jerusalem and Crusade leader. Later the Crusaders abandoned Jerash. In the early 16^th century Jerash came into limelight during the Ottoman rule. Small settlements continued during the Mamluk Sultanate and Ottoman Empire. Jerash never recovered and declined further until it became a lost city known for its ruins and glory days.

Many inhabitants believed that the city was cursed, so it was not rebuilt. For centuries,most of the ruins were buried beneath the soil.  From a Neolithic village Gerasa progressed to a Greco city, then a Roman metropolis, then a Byzantine city and finally to an Arabic city until it was destroyed by the Galilee earthquake.After the 16th century ,Jerash was completely deserted and forgotten to history until archaeological excavation began in the 19th century.In 1806,a German explorer, Ulrich Jasper Seetzen started excavation and for 200 years the work progressed until the ruins of ancient Gerasa reached its present stage. Modern day Jerash was built on an adjoining wadi (valley).

Modern Jerash

Jerash is flourishing due to its Tourism Industry and is the second most popular tourist attraction after Petra. Jerash is considered to be one of the largest and most well-preserved sites of Roman architecture in the world outside Italy. It also has the largest and best preserved Byzantine ruins.

A particular feature of Gerasa is that all the structures reflected various shades of yellow in the afternoon sun. While the Arch of Hadrian was laguna yellow, a creamy ,medium-shade yellow; the South Theatre was royal yellow with a golden- brown shade.The Temple of Zeus from afar looked light- khaki yellow, a sort of brownish-beige yellow. The colonnades in the Oval Forum and Cardo looked pale, golden rod yellow while the South Gate was a light,airy yellow like the colour of a lemon chiffon cake. The carceres sometimes looked sunshine yellow and sometimes muted yellow  in the sunny haze. But the one constant factor was modern Jerash, with its distant,monochromatic white buildings.   

At present ,Jerash is the capital and the largest city of the Jerash Governorate in Jordan. In ancient times it was one of the wealthiest and most cosmopolitan cities in ancient Near East.

Ruins of Gerasa bordered by Modern Jerash 

Tags: Gerasa, Jerash, Hippodrome, Hadrian's Arch, Oval Forum, Cardo, South Street

Photographs: Bulbul Sur