Ancient Harappan Site
Dholavira, Gujarat.
 |
| ASI's Signboard |
The eight Harappan sites discovered in the Indo-Pak region
are Harappa, Mohenjodaro,Ganeriwala (all in Pakistan),Rakhigarhi, Kalibangan, Rupnagar,
Lothal and Dholavira (all in India). Dholavira is the fifth largest among all these
major sites and one of the most prominent archaeological sites belonging to the Indus Valley Civilization. Harappa,
Mohenjo-Daro (UNESCO World Heritage Site), Ganeriwala Rakhigarhi and Dholavira were urban sites and Dholavira
was one of the grandest of cities of its time. "The site was thought to be occupied from
c.2650 BCE,declining slowly after about 2100 BCE and to have been briefly abandoned
then reoccupied until c.1450 BCE; however,recent research suggests the beginning of occupation around 3500 BCE(pre-Harappan) and continuity until around 1800 BCE(early part of late Harappan period)."(source: Wikipedia)Dholavira
The Harappan site of Dholavira was discovered by Shri
Jagatpati Joshi of Archaeological Survey of India in 1967-68.But the actual
systematic excavation started only since 1990.Ancient Harappan Site, Dholavira,Gujarat
Locally, Dholavira is known as Timba Mahanagar Prachin
Kotada/Kotada Timba Prachin Mahanagar or simply Kotada Timba. The place is a
monsoon island and during monsoons it is surrounded by the sea.
Reaching Dholavira
Dholavira is about 220 km from Bhuj,Gujarat.Ancient Harappan Site,Dholavira We started from Bhuj in a car
at about 7 a.m.
and it took us about 4 and a half hours to reach Dholavira. The natural scenery
at the outset was soothing with the fern-green Bhujia hill guarding the horizon. Since we went in
August (2009), there was a profusion of greenery with the pine-green meadows
bordered by the luxuriant foliage of Saru (Cypress), Neem, coconut etc. As we
left the coastal area and motored farther, trees such as peepal
(sacred fig),tamarind, guggul (Indian Myrrh), vad (banyan) and cactus came into
focus. The lime-green Babul (acacia )trees were in abundance everywhere. The excellent highway
was mainly vacant with hardly any human habitation or roadside dhabas except for some occasional tea
shops. Sometimes we had to pass through
narrow, pebbly, dusty-red roads with the babul trees encroaching from both
sides. But the most eye-catching and adventurous experience greeted us when we
entered the Great Rann of Kutch. Nearly 7 km length of road is within this Rann. The
journey on this causeway bridge with the backwaters on both sides kissing the
bridge is superb. As far as our eyes
could reach there was only abundant water on both side of the low bridge. After
the monsoon season is over, the water will recede and only white sand will
remain for the rest of the year. Soon, we entered the island of
Khadir Bet.
 |
|
 |
| Crossing the Bridge |
 |
| A Section of the Rann of Kutch |
The hill was still accompanying us but this was Meruda Takkar
hill, a geographical feature located north of Khadir Bet island .It is made up
of syenite rocks. The hill is also described as an island, or outcrop or even
monadnock bordering the peneplain.
 |
| Meadows and Shrubs |
 |
| Advancing Towards Dholavira with the Rann of Kutch Meeting the Horizon |
The Archaeological Museum
We reached Dholavira at about 12 p.m. and had the whole
afternoon at our disposal to explore this ancient, archaeological wonder. The
first thing that we encountered upon entering the site complex was the
Archaeological Museum. A day comprising of three-four hours should be reserved
for Dholavira because the Archaeological
Museum itself will take ample time to
explore and study the artefacts thoroughly. It is a storehouse of information. It
showcases antiquities of the Indus Valley Civilization excavated from the site.
The objects are arranged in a systematic order with suitable labelling and
accompanying literature so that there was no difficulty in understanding them.
There was also a Visitor’s Book at the reception to jot down our experience.
The Museum is maintained by ASI and it is open from 10 a.m.
to 5 p.m. except Friday.
The Archaeological Site
 |
| ASI's Signboard |
From the archaeological museum we had to walk a bit to reach
the ruin site. From there we had to climb a low hill or more accurately a high
mound to go to the other side of the ruin site. So, sturdy walking shoes would
be a great help.
Going Towards the Archaeological Site from the Museum
 |
| The Mound |
 |
Layout plan of Dholavira Archaeological Site at Timba Kotada ,Dholavira,Kutch,Gujarat
Photo:Nizil Shah at English Wikipedia
|
The area of the site is 47 ha (120 acres). The site is shaped like a parallelogram
guarded by a fortification. The total area is divided into three parts: The
Citadel, The Middle Town and The Lower Town.
 |
| Architectural Marvels of Ancient Dholavira: Building Units |
The Citadel
It is located on the southern side and has two fortified
divisions--the castle to the east and the Bailey to the west. The castle is
defended by double ramparts.
 |
| Remains of Harappan Buildings |
There is a large stadium/ceremonial ground with a complex structure and seating arrangement .It measures 283 meters in length,47.5 meters in width and has 4 narrow terraces which possibly served as seating arrangement.The Bailey
The Bailey stands next to the castle,which served as a residential
complex to important officials. The fortification of Bailey is made of massive
mud-brick walls flanked by dressed stones.
 |
| Strong Fortification |
The Middle Town
The fortified Middle Town lies to the north and is separated
from the Citadel by a long and wide ceremonial ground.
 |
| Elaborate House Planning |
The Lower Town
 |
| Mound of the Dead |
The Lower Town was laid out within the general fortification
to the east of the middle town.
 |
| Dholavira's Perfectly Polished Pillar Base |
 |
| Well-Defined System of Urban Town Planning |
The buildings were made of sun-dried mud bricks and stone. In Dholavira the buildings were mainly made of stone while in other Harappan sites the building were chiefly made of bricks. Urban town planning, architecture of perfect proportions, street patterns showcase the expertise of ancient Dholavira’s civil engineers.
 |
| East Gate of Dholavira |
 |
| Solid Stone Steps at Dholavira Archaeological Site |
 |
| Ancient Ruins |
 |
| Well-planned Ancient Roads at the Archaeological Site |
Dholavira Signboard
A board with 10 large letters made of gypsum was found in the
northern gate of the castle. The signs may have stood both for words and
syllables. It might have represented the name and title of the king of the city. Each
sign is about 37 cm (15 in.) high and was scribed on a board of 3 meter (9.8
ft.) long. Even after the wood decayed and the board fell down, the arrangement
of the letters remained intact. The symbols/letters are carved in Indus Valley
script and the script is one of the longest in the Indus Valley script. It is
said to be the first signboard in human history and the first evidence of
written language. Since the letters are large and placed in a public place,
scholars argue that there was hundred per cent literacy among the inhabitants of Indus Valley Civilization in
Dholavira.
 |
Ten Indus Scripts Discovered Near the Northern Gateway of the Citadel Dholavira
Photo: Siyajkak, commons.wikimedia.org |
Inscriptions are also found on copper tablets, bronze implements and small objects
made of terracotta, stone and faience (fine tin-glazed pottery).
Water Conservation
Dholavira, a 5000 year old town, boasts of the world’s
earliest water conservation system. In the Citadel and Middle town, interesting
network of small and large drains were discovered.
The quadrangular city of Dholavira lay between 2 seasonal
streams—Mansar in the north and Manhar in the South.
It had 16 reservoirs to store water and adequate water
channels to divert water from nearby rivulets. Two major reservoirs were
discovered: southern and eastern reservoir. Those reservoirs were partly
excavated into the bedrock and partly built of masonry. Rainwater and water
diverted from nearby streams were stored there. There are rope marks on the
stones near the wells. This suggests that water drawn out from the well was
poured into another channel which finally reached a smaller well. This water
was used for regular consumption. Such extensive hydraulic engineering to the
minute detail sustained life in Dholavira for more than 1200 years. Therefore the arid,
harsh and hot climate failed to have an adverse impact on the civilisation.
 |
| Ancient Stepwell |
 |
| Stepwell,Tunnel,Reservoir at Ancient Dholavira Site |
The bathing tank had steps descending inwards.
 |
| Well-planned Channels |
 |
| Meshed Ancient Well |
Discovery
Gold, silver, copper, shell and terracotta ornaments were in
use at that time as the excavated materials revealed. A vessel of chlorite schist and some other antiquities of West Asian origin indicate its trade
link with Mesopotamia. In addition, some other antiquities found here are: graduated
scale made on a charred rib bone of an animal, seals, beads of semi-precious
stones, bronze vessels and pottery. All these priceless
items are displayed in the museum. The seals may have been used in trade and
official administrative work.
A large, pearl-making factory existed in this town and fossils
found here have revealed copper distilleries.
 |
| Stone Implements from the Archaeological Site |
Later Discoveries
A 5000 year-old step well has been found(in 2014)here which is
three times bigger than the Great Bath at Mohenjo-Daro. It is 73.4 m long, 29.3
m wide and 10 m deep.
Recent satellite imagery had shown a site in Dholavira comprising of
Harappan funeral structures entombing mortal remains of noblemen and members of highly-placed families. In Indian traditions funeral rites are performed close
to a river, lake or tank. So, ideally an artificial tank must be hidden nearby,
buried southwest of Dholavira.
 |
| Excavation Site |
Important Trading Point
Researchers have suggested that Dholavira was an important
trading point and a coastal route existed linking Lothal and Dholavira to
Sutkagan Dor/ Sutkagen Dor on the Makran Coast in Pakistan’s Baluchistan
province.
How to Reach Dholavira
There are daily flights from Mumbai /Ahmedabad to Bhuj
airport. Bhuj is connected to Ahmedabad, Vadodara, Surat , Mumbai, Delhi, Kolkata,
Jaipur, Moradabad ,Ujjain and other Indian cities by railways. State transport
buses connect Bhuj to various places in Gujarat and outside Gujarat.
Conclusion
After exploring Dholavira
to our heart’s content for about three-four hours we started our return journey.
We had taken lunch with us, apprehending the lack of restaurants on the way. We
reached Bhuj at about eight p.m. You can reach Dholavira only by road and the motorable road is comfortable. Taxi services are available from Bhuj to Dholavira. Bhuj is
a wonderful, historical city with very good hotels.So the best option of
visiting Dholavira is from Bhuj.
Photographs: S.K.Sur and Bulbul Sur
Tags: Bhuj, Kutch, Gujarat, Dholavira, Dholavira Excavation Site, Dholavira Signboard
