Gerasa: Founded and Lost

                                                     Jerash, Jordan

Jerash is  the perfect example of a Greco-Roman site. It is called the ‘Pompeii of the Middle East’/ 'Pompeii of Asia' due to its ‘size, extent of excavation and level of preservation’.In Greek and Roman times the city was known as Gerasa.After the Muslim conquest in 635 AD, it was renamed as Jerash. The location of ancient Jerash ruins will remind you about Rome or Jaipur. Just as the ruins of Roman Empire are in the bustling city of modern Rome; and the historic Hawa Mahal, City Palace and Jantar Mantar are in Jaipur’s hub, so the Jerash ruin lies in the heart of the city. On the other side of the ruins is the contemporary city of Jerash and only the modern highway separates it from the ancient  Gerasa city, albeit in a ruinate state.

The Ancient Walkway juxtaposed with the Modern Road. Temple of Zeus on Top Left

As we walk past Gerasa's Hippodrome and move towards its South Gate, we see the modern road by our side, with commerce thriving robustly in today's Jerash. 

Location

Jerash is just a forty minutes’ drive from Jordan’s capital city, Amman. It lies in a quiet valley between the mountains of Gilead. Jerash encompasses the north and south of the valley. The ruins of Jerash are at an altitude of 500 m (1640.42 feet). A perennial stream runs through the middle of the valley which does not dry even in summer, since times immemorial.

With such a fine, ancient water supply it is but natural that Jerash had human settlements since ancient times.

History

The earliest settlers were Neolithic as is proved by the excavations of flint implements found on the slopes, east of the Triumphal Arch. 

The Triumphal Arch

There are evidences of Bronze  Age as early as  2500 B.C. and also Iron Age. In the settlements near the ruins of Jerash and on the hilltops are remains of Dolmens (megalithic tombs ) earlier than Bronze Age.

Antioch on the Chrysorrhoas

The glory of Jerash has many Founding Fathers. Jerash was  at one time called “Antioch on the Chrysorrhoas” (Antioch on the Golden River). Chrysorrhoas refers to the little perennial stream. Antioch probably refers to the Seleucid King Antiochus IV, who ruled in the 2^nd century B.C. and who transformed the little village of Jerash into a grand town. Seleucids built temples for Zeus, Hera, Apollo, Poseidon, Artemis and Nemesis.

Some inscriptions suggest that Alexander the Great founded Jerash, some attribute to his General Perdiccas in the 4^th century B.C. Egypt’s Ptolemy II (285-246 B.C.),the king who changed Amman into the Greek city of Philadelphia, is also credited for the glory of Jerash. Perhaps all of them contributed to the building of this magnificent Greek town, Gerasa.     

Roman Era

Jerash is a complete example of a Roman city and is a fine specimen of the powerful Roman rule in the Middle East. In 63 B.C. Pompey the Great, the famous Roman general and statesman who transformed Rome into Roman Empire from a Roman Republic ,   won  the Near East (roughly corresponding to modern Middle East)and divided it into provinces. Gerasa and its lands were attached to Syria. This was the landmark period of Gerasa’s development. From then, till the middle of the first century AD, Gerasa was peaceful. This peace brought stability which allowed the rulers to focus on development. It became known as a Roman commercial city and it flourished as a trade epicenter. It traded with the Nabataeans, as many coins of the Nabataean King, Aretas IV, has been found. It became part of Roman Decapolis which means it was included in a group of ten influential cities that made up the Roman Empire’s eastern border.

The area of Jerash ruins is about 800,000 square yards. We passed through a shady, covered area (huge courtyard of sorts) which was lined with shops selling local goods. They were very costly. A small bag cost forty dollars. But the shopkeepers were offering shawls for three dinars. There was a juice kiosk too. We climbed a few steps and entered the ruin site. As we walked farther through the wide lane, we noticed rows of horse stables with arched openings. We had reached the Hippodrome.

Hippodrome

Directly after Hadrian 's Arch , lies the Hippodrome. During Roman times, chariot racing was  organised here in front of 17,000 spectators. The Hadrian's Arch and the Hippodrome are outside the South Gate which is the main gate through which tourists enter the ancient city of  Gerasa.Around the  edges of the Hippodrome are  a line  of  horse stables which are no less architecturally eye-catching with their rows of arches.  This 2000 year- old chariot racing stadium is still used by RACE (Roman Army and Chariot Experience)during festivals when race of charioteers and  gladiatorial fights are held to ignite the imagination of spectators.   

The 10 Starting Gates of the Carceres

A Closer View of Middle Gate of the Arched Carceres

 

The Hippodrome has ten starting gates  (Carceres)as opposed to the usual 12. This is the place where the horses would be positioned. It is one of the smallest-known Hippodromes of the Roman era and also the best preserved. It is 265 m long and 50 m wide.The seating area is 4 m deep with 16 rows of seats.

 

The Carceres and Racing Track of the Hippodrome  Photo:Bernard Gagnon, Wikimedia Commons 

The Hippodrome was functional from 220 AD to 749 AD.It was probably completed in the early third century AD and by the late fourth century AD, it was transformed into an amphitheatre for gladiatorial combats and other sports.  

Between the sixth and eighth centuries AD, the monument was used as a quarry, and materials taken from here was used to repair the city wall.In the 8th century it became a mass grave for the hurried burial of plague victims.But the final blow was dealt by the Galilee earthquake (749 AD) which destroyed the fine structure. 

An Ancient Stable  

A Stable with Double-sided Entrance

 

The Neat Curves of the Arches

A Distant View of the Carceres

A Rear View of the Seating Arrangement in the Hippodrome

The South Gate

 

The South Street

The Wide Road leading to the South Gate 

The South Gate

We walked through the principal entrance of the South Gate and came across rows and rows of colonnades (columns) which housed the main ancient thoroughfare, the Cardo Maximus. No wonder, Jerash is called 'The city of Thousand Columns'.

The Cardo

The Cardo is a 800 m (2,625 ft) length ,colonnaded ,straight road, built in the 2nd century AD. It ran through the length of the city. The flagstones are marked by thousands of chariots that ran over it during ancient times. 

A Portion of Cardo

Colonnades, the Limestone-paved Road and the Sidewalk

 Cardo was Gerasa's main street and it is lined by Corinthian columns, i.e. slender columns with acanthus-leaf capital.The workers in that far-away Roman age were very skilled as their work manifests and the ruling dispensation was not only very wealthy to afford such craftsmen but also had excellent taste.  The most important places on the street during Roman times are marked by taller columns. Shops and temples used to border the street on either side.

Ancient Jerash flanked by Modern Jerash (in White) 

The Oval Forum

The Forum is the most sought-after tourist spot in Jerash This elliptical forum is in the heart of the ancient city and it links Cardo Maximus with the Temple of Zeus.It is over 90 m long and 80 m wide at its widest point.It was  constructed in the middle of the 1st century AD.   

A Portion of the Magnificent Forum

The Colonnades on Low Blocks

The forum is surrounded by 160 unfluted, Ionic columns or colonnades.The columns stand on low blocks.

Ancient Flagstone-paved Road 

It perhaps served as a market place and also as a focal point of the city's social and political life.

Ruins near the Forum

In the middle of the 1^st century A.D. Jerash was on  a restructuring mode. It had become a wealthy town. Prosperous citizens of Jerash contributed freely for the making of markets,temples, theatres, pools and shrines.

 

Military Barracks

We walked further straight and took a left turn where we came across a round structure which was a market place, a sort of mall for the rich.   

 Macellum and Agora

Macellum is an ancient Roman market or market building, especially a meat market.Agora was the main food market/grocery market of the Roman period and it was positioned around a central, cruciform  fountain in a courtyard.The fountain is surrounded by Corinthian columns. The market was built by Tiberius Alexandros,governor of  Gerasa in 130 AD .   

The Fountain surrounded by Corinthian Columns

Outside this circular structure  there were porticoes and other shop-like enclosures. One enclosure had  sculptures of a cow’s head and a buffalo’s head and that was the butcher’s shop. One part of the parapet gave out musical sounds when hit gently with a stone.

A Column with a Human Head in its Capital

There were rows of pillars and one pillar had a human head in its capital, which meant , the seat of the king was below it.

Porticoed Market

Roman Roads

The Ancient Road

The ancient, original roads in Jerash still exist. Roads played an important part in Roman empire building. They helped in the smooth and swift march of the Roman army .Better roads also helped to build better trade and information routes.In AD 106 ,Emperor Trajan constructed roads throughout the province . As a result more trade came to Gerasa.The roads are excellent  specimen of Roman engineering aptitude. The plaza in the oval forum is paved with high quality limestone slabs.  

 Temple of Zeus

We came out of the ancient market and arrived at a different place of  the colonnaded road. We had reached the Temple of Zeus.

Temple of Zeus

This temple was built in 162-163 AD over the remains of an earlier Roman Temple.It is built on the summit of a hill, the highest point in Gerasa from where we can get a panoramic view of the old city far below. It was approached by a magnificent stairway leading from the Temenos (sacred courtyard) where sacrifices used to take place.

Temple of Zeus with its Niches and Altars

 Sanctuary of Zeus Temple and Oval Plaza

The sanctuary of  the Temple of Zeus is harmoniously connected to the Oval Forum. The Cardo or main street was widened in an oval shape in front of the principal access point to the sactuary where the  Oval Forum meets the temple.

Zeus Temple and the South Theatre on the Right

South Theatre or Roman Amphitheatre.

The Porticus and Scaenae Frons

Our next stop was the Roman Theatre which is beside the Temple of Zeus. We entered a narrow passage and then were ejected into a vast open space -- the huge, ancient amphitheatre: the hot seat of  performances for thousands of years. The effect was stupendous. A group of Bedouins were performing a show. 

 

The Architectural Beauty of  Scaenae Frons

 

The Caveas

We felt like Roman emperors sitting in the most important area of the cavea and watching the performance. There were lots of structures facing the theatre:–high platform with arches, wide pavilions. The area of this theatre was larger than the theatre in The Citadel, Amman. Like Amman's theatre, South Theatre  also  had an advanced system of acoustics. There is a focal point at the centre of the pit, just in front of the stage, which is marked by a distinct stone.From this point normal speaking could be heard throughout the auditorium , right up to the topmost seat.

The South Theatre was built in 90 AD,during the reign of  the Roman Emperor,Domitian.   

The Stage and the Proscenium

The Temple of Artemis

The Temple of Artemis is a Roman peripteral temple.It was built in 150-160 AD during the height of Gerasa's prosperity. The spectacular feature of this temple are the stone columns with Corinthian capitals which stand 39 feet  (13.20 m) tall and weighs over 20 tons.The columns were designed in such a way that they would sway during a earthquake.That's the reason that some of its columns withstood the Galilee earthquake .However, the temple was burnt by the Crusaders in 1121 AD when the Turkish army was using it as a fortress. 

The Temple of Artemis

Artemis, the Greek Goddess of the hunt,the wilderness, wild animals,the moon and chastity, was the tutelary deity of Gerasa.

The Arch of Hadrian (The Triumphal Arch) 

In the 2^nd century AD, Emperor Trajan extended the frontiers of his empire and built roads. More trade came in which resulted in greater wealth. Ornate structures were constructed. Two thermae or imperial baths were built. When the Roman Emperor, Hadrian visited the city (129-130) a spurt of construction activity was initiated. The Arch of Hadrian, also known as the Triumphal Arch, was erected to celebrate his visit.

The Cream-Coloured Hadrian's Arch

This triple-arched gateway is one of the largest -known arches of the Roman Empire.It is 25 m wide and 21.5 m high.The main gate or the middle arch is almost 11 m high and 6 m wide. 

The Wide Middle Arch

This cream-coloured  architecture is decorated with niches, arches and columns.A particular feature of the decoration of its Corinthian columns is that the acanthus is sculpted at the base of the pillar instead of the capitals at the top.

A View of  Gilead Mountain through Hadrian's Arch  

The Arch of Hadrian was built outside the city walls which signified that there were plans of expanding, of building a new city southwards and the gate was intended to be an entrance gate to that city.However, that expansion never happened due to political disturbances within Gerasa. The gate has dual facades:looking north towards the city and looking south towards the road. The distant Gilead mountains could be glimpsed through the opening of the arches which bespeak abundantly of the excellent aesthetics of Roman architects.  

Downfall of Jerash

Early in the 3^rd century A.D. the downfall of Jerash began. Jerash was on the trade route between Damascus and Petra; as well as on the trade routes running north and westwards towards the Mediterranean ports of Tyre (Lebanon) and Joppa/Jaffa (Israel). Jerash lost its strategic importance when trade routes shifted after Palmyra was destroyed and Sasanian kingdom evolved in Iraq.  The Roman force weakened in Gerasa. By the middle of the 4^th century, Christian influence grew in Gerasa. Many churches were built under the Byzantine Emperor, Justinian (527-565).

The Persian invasion in 614 A.D. struck the death-knell on Jerash. Muslim conquest in 635 A.D. made Jerash decline further. A series of earthquakes destroyed the magnificent architecture in Jerash; notable among them was Galilee earthquake in 749 which destroyed large parts. The ruins are left in the same state as they were when the colossal ,magnificent structures were felled by the earthquake. 

Ruins Of Gerasa

Subsequent  earthquakes happened and further destroyed the fine architecture of Jerash. Jerash is as famous as Pompeii .Pompeii was destroyed by a volcano and Jerash was destroyed by invasions and mostly by earthquakes.

 Capitals of  Corinthian Columns

Jerash is mentioned as Gerasa throughout the New Testament as part of the Decapolis with Jesus’ healing of two demoniacs who were living in the tombs ‘somewhere in the broader regions’ of Gerasa. In 1120, the Atabeg of Damascus, Toghtekin, built a fort in Jerash, which was captured and destroyed in 1121 by Baldwin II ,king of Jerusalem and Crusade leader. Later the Crusaders abandoned Jerash. In the early 16^th century Jerash came into limelight during the Ottoman rule. Small settlements continued during the Mamluk Sultanate and Ottoman Empire. Jerash never recovered and declined further until it became a lost city known for its ruins and glory days.

Many inhabitants believed that the city was cursed, so it was not rebuilt. For centuries,most of the ruins were buried beneath the soil.  From a Neolithic village Gerasa progressed to a Greco city, then a Roman metropolis, then a Byzantine city and finally to an Arabic city until it was destroyed by the Galilee earthquake.After the 16th century ,Jerash was completely deserted and forgotten to history until archaeological excavation began in the 19th century.In 1806,a German explorer, Ulrich Jasper Seetzen started excavation and for 200 years the work progressed until the ruins of ancient Gerasa reached its present stage. Modern day Jerash was built on an adjoining wadi (valley).

Modern Jerash

Jerash is flourishing due to its Tourism Industry and is the second most popular tourist attraction after Petra. Jerash is considered to be one of the largest and most well-preserved sites of Roman architecture in the world outside Italy. It also has the largest and best preserved Byzantine ruins.

A particular feature of Gerasa is that all the structures reflected various shades of yellow in the afternoon sun. While the Arch of Hadrian was laguna yellow, a creamy ,medium-shade yellow; the South Theatre was royal yellow with a golden- brown shade.The Temple of Zeus from afar looked light- khaki yellow, a sort of brownish-beige yellow. The colonnades in the Oval Forum and Cardo looked pale, golden rod yellow while the South Gate was a light,airy yellow like the colour of a lemon chiffon cake. The carceres sometimes looked sunshine yellow and sometimes muted yellow  in the sunny haze. But the one constant factor was modern Jerash, with its distant,monochromatic white buildings.   

At present ,Jerash is the capital and the largest city of the Jerash Governorate in Jordan. In ancient times it was one of the wealthiest and most cosmopolitan cities in ancient Near East.

Ruins of Gerasa bordered by Modern Jerash 

Tags: Gerasa, Jerash, Hippodrome, Hadrian's Arch, Oval Forum, Cardo, South Street

Photographs: Bulbul Sur

Wadi Rum

                         Prehistoric Petroglyphs, Desert Tents, Sand and Sun

Wadi Rum, Wadi Rum

 

Southern Jordan’s Wadi Rum is also known as Valley of the Moon. It is situated between sandstone and granite rocks. It is 60 kms to the east of Aqaba. The climate is hot in the afternoons and chilly at night. On a clear day it is possible to see Saudi Arabia and Red Sea from the top of the rocky mountains.

Wadi Rum has been inhabited by human settlements of different cultures  since prehistoric times,going back to 10,000 B.C. The Nabataeans were one of them. These human settlements left their imprint on the elements of nature namely the rocks in the form of rock paintings, graffiti and temples.Scientific studies claim that the practice of Petroglyphs (images engraved or painted on rocks) in Wadi Rum extends uninterrupted throughout Neolithic to modern era.

The headquarters of Desert Patrol is situated in this village.

Exploring Wadi Rum

Our journey continued from Petra. Wadi Rum is two hour’s drive from  Petra. The distance is about 80 kms. We were very excited to see Wadi Rum, the largest wadi (valley) in Jordan. The desolate landscape was our constant companion. Sometimes buff-hued nondescript buildings cropped up interspersed with an occasional white, double-storied bungalow- type structure, with  maroon- tiled sloping roof.

 We passed through towns and hamlets but there were hardly any factories in the outskirts .Yellow-hued rocks bordered the side of the road, sometimes near and sometimes far away. Wherever there was a whiff of pasture, beige-hued sheep grazed on it. The color of the rocks and the buildings in Jordan were the same: sandstone yellow.

Huge Rocks:Our Constant Travel Companion

On the way to Wadi Rum , we saw some run-down castles in the desert which were built by the rulers to give shelter to pilgrims on their way to Mecca and also to protect them from crusaders.

Short Rocks: A Different Topography

Gradually, the scenery changed .Huge, mountain-like rocks surfaced on the side of the road. The mountains were not plain conical structures but each had  a different façade as if human hands have painstakingly carved on the mountain. Some were  perhaps the  handicraft of the vagaries of nature. A few mountains looked like South Indian temple architecture ;some looked as if two elephants were standing facing each other; but the most spectacular was a mountain façade which looked as if the   face of several Lord Ganeshas were engraved on it, complete with their trunks. In the 1980s this rock formation in Wadi Rum originally known as Jabal al–Mazmar (The Mountain of (the) Plague), was named , ‘The Seven Pillars of Wisdom’ after Lawrence’ book by the same name ; though the seven pillars referred in the book have no connection with Wadi Rum. The book is an autobiographical account of the Arab Revolt of 1916-1918. British officer, T.E. Lawrence, passed through this area many times during the Arab revolt .

Seven Pillars of Wisdom

                                                      Photograph: By Tomobe03 - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=11714865

Small caves were also carved on the mountains. Other than the marvelous, mysterious mountains with prehistoric engravings there was only the sandy expanse. We were nearing Wadi Rum desert.

A Closer Look at the Rocks

Hejaz Railway

On the way we also saw a single-track,narrow  gauge  railway line. It was a long railway line on which a goods train was passing by.

This railway line was opened in 1908 when there was a boom in railway line construction. It is called Hejaz Railway. It was part of the Ottoman Empire Railway network.T. E. Lawrence, the British officer led a guerrilla force during the Arab revolt against the Ottoman Empire when Ottoman trains were ambushed frequently.  One such ambush was on March 26,1917 when T.E. Lawrence, (famous as Lawrence of Arabia) had blown up that railway line.

Though this railway line is facing decay but one service is still available: from Amman in Jordan to Damascus in Syria .It is part of the Hedjaz Jordan Railway. The distance is 175 km (109 miles) and by road it takes two to two –and- a- half hours. But by train it can take 7 to 10 hours because of delays at local stations and emergency stops to remove goats and nomads from the railway track.

Our journey continued. Except for the sandstone rocks, there was no other scenery, not even any vegetation. On the way we had also seen camps for tourists, orbicular in structure, each fitted  with a tiny balcony to gaze at the stars.

Soon, our bus took a turn and halted at a large expanse of sand, where a small, roofless van was standing. There were huge rocks jutting up from the sand but at great distances. If it hadn’t been for that van we would have wandered aimlessly in that huge desert with no entry and exit points visible; all parts looking similar with sand and finely engraved mountainous rocks cropping up.Our guide and the driver of the van shook hands and then our bus followed the van until we reached our camp.

Rahayeb Desert Camp

Near the Entrance 

Finally we arrived at Rahayeb Desert Camp . It was set up in a canyon, under the awning of 3 huge rocks trying to meet each other in a triangle but a huge gap was left in-between. A compound wall guarded the premises.

The Tents Housing the Dining Room and Kitchen 

Rows Of Camps

There were about 40 camps  in the area .They were positioned side by side in neat rows. Each camp was numbered and the numbers were written on signboards at the entrance of each row. The tents were made of thick canvas. Each camp was  locked by a single, ordinary key. Inside the camp there were two beds,2 bedside tables with drawers ,two long tables to keep our things ,plug point, hangers, etc. The floor was carpeted. The bathroom was wonderfully equipped  with a wash basin, geyser, commode and a cozy bathing area. It was stocked with the essentials: hand wash, shower gel, towels, moisturizer and shampoo . Surprise of surprise! There was even WIFI connection in the tent.

Another Part of the Camp Site

A separate unit or rather a large tent housed the dining room and the kitchen. We had a hearty lunch of Bedouin pulav ,salads, hummus, sauces, vegetables  and a large apple for dessert. There were long benches accompanied by long tables which served as seating arrangement for having food. There were also separate  tables for 4 or more people. Adequate dustbins were scattered in the area. A handsome Jordanian, somewhat like a young Omar Sharif  but taller was supervising the entire area. He came to our  group and said, “If you need anything just say, ‘I want the manager.’”

Desert Safari

Safari Under the Sun and on the Sand   photo:supplied

After lunch we set out for a jeep safari at 3 p.m. We set out in 3 roofless jeeps. Each jeep accommodated six of us at the back .The driver was driving quite fast, even racing with the other drivers of the jeeps. 

Who Can Reach the Rocks First?  photo:supplied

After travelling for about ten minutes we crossed a road and came across a village of Bedouin settlement. In the village of Wadi Rum several hundred Bedouin inhabitants live in goat-hair tents and concrete houses with their four-wheeled vehicles and livestock. Wadi Rum is home to the Zalabia Bedouins. Eco-tourism is their main source of income. Bedouins have climbed on the sandstone mountains for many generations. Though many Bedouins have settled in towns and cities and are doing government jobs yet they have not left their traditional nomadic lifestyle and age-old occupation as pastoralists. The guide for our entire Jordan tour was a Bedouin but he was dressed in western attire ,in trousers and shirt and he lived in Amman.

After crossing the road we came across another sandy waste between  carved rocks and sand.

Rocks with Arches

 As our jeep sped past we got a fleeting but closer look at the carvings-- Skull-like engraving, temple carvings and rocks shaped like arches .

Spectacular Carving

Camels were resting here and there and were giving us odd looks. We found Bedouins herding  camels across the sand dunes .Sometimes grunting camels sat in large groups beside their masters in the barren desert with the afternoon hot sun overhead .

The Ultimate Photo Spot

Dark Rocks at Sunset

Sunset at Wadi Rum

The jeep raced past and we held tightly to the rods. Our noses and heads were covered as well as our mouth so that we don’t swallow sand. There was a line of balloons overhead hanging on a wire. What was their purpose? Finally, we reached a nice spot to watch the sunset. 

The Silent Cliffs at Sunset

As the sun’s light diminished behind the mountain, the moon was coming up behind another mountain. There was a tea stall too. One cup of tea was for 1 dinar which means about one hundred and fifty rupees in Indian currency.

Wadi Rum at Dusk

After sunset the air suddenly turned cold. On our way back we encountered home-going camels. A recurrent thought echoed in our minds: what if we are lost in the vast desert?

Party under the Stars

Finally we reached our camp. Night had descended and there was a preparation for a grand party. At 6:30 p.m. the party started .Behind the kitchen was an open space, Bedouin food was been prepared and a Live demonstration was going on. The crowd was enormous but I could see the tail end  when the  fully- cooked food was being hauled out from beneath the ground by two men.

People sat in groups around a fire pit and were enjoying themselves in the party atmosphere. Rhythmic Arabic songs were being played. First, the men danced. They stood in a line, held each other’s waist and did magical footwork. The Arabic men and women were smoking hookah or sheesha .The women were dressed in their traditional Arabian attire . A couple of ladies got up and danced when their desired songs were being played. Small children also joined the ladies. Sometimes a group of young girls danced with the ladies but never with the men. Small boys danced deliriously on tables.

The wind had become very cold and in the courtyard the fire pit  gave us some warmth. The seating arrangement was adequate.

After some time as we saw the line to the dinner table becoming lengthier. So we stood in the line. The feast was sumptuous and the delivery was quick: an array of salads ,vegetables, humuss, various dips, Bedouin rice, etc. A separate tent was given to the Indian group to have dinner.
The dancing and merry making went on unabated as the wind became colder and the stars increased in the sky. It was said that at 8:30 the lights would be switched off so that we could see the stars. We waited till nine but nothing happened. So we retired to our respective tents.

The next morning I got up at five, took my bath and then again went off to sleep. At seven we took our breakfast: salads, humuss, omelets as per order ,tea /coffee and Arabic bread.

The wind had blown rapaciously at night because one of the three rocks (under which our camp was set up) was half covered in sand.

Sand-Covered Rock at Dawn

 It was a heavenly experience to sit in the desert and have continental breakfast.

Breakfast Below Cliffs    Photo:Supplied

Towering Rocks    photo:supplied

At 8:30 we left the premises because we had to be in time at Aqaba for a Nile Cruise which started at 10 a.m.

The scenery was the same, mountain rocks with beautiful carvings but now we could see plastic packets stuck on small rocks and bricks which were hitherto unseen in Amman, Petra and Little Petra .

 Tourism in Wadi Rum

After the film 'Lawrence of Arabia' became a hit in 1962, Jordan’s tourism industry kick started. Wadi Rum has now become one of Jordan’s important tourist destinations. Tourists from all over the world flock to this place. There are other attractions here: such as trekking, rock-climbing, camel and horse safari, luxury camping ,retreats, camping under the stars, riding Arabian horses, etc. All-Terrain Vehicles(ATVs) and Jeeps are also available.

So Long ,Wadi Rum

On September 2018, Morari  Bapu the world-renowned Hindu saint and speaker hosted a 9-day Ram Katha in the heart of Wadi Rum. The Katha preached about the “universal message of Truth, Love and Compassion.”

 

     Photographs :Bulbul Sur

Tags: Wadi Rum , Desert Camp, Jeep Safari,Petroglyphs,Hejaz Railway 

      

 Bileshwar Mahadev Temple

Bileshwar Mahadev Temple

A Mahadev Shrine whose first Pujari was Sri Krishna

Bileshwar Mahadev Temple, Porbandar, Gujarat

A Section of Shri Bilnath Mahadev Temple 

Bileshwar Temple/Shri Bilnath Mahadev Temple is located in a small village called Bhilleshwar in Porbandar district in Gujarat, India. Bhilleshwar  is situated on the banks of Bhilleshwari river. This river is now called Bhil/Bil Ganga. It rises in Barda Hills and flows past the village to join Minsar River.

Shri Bilnath Mahadev Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is the oldest temple of Lord Shiva in the region. As per mythology the first puja was done by Sri Krishna. The lingam inside the Sanctum Sanctorum is known as Shayambhu,  which means It came into existence automatically and it appears to be a natural stone..

 This ancient temple is in excellent condition because it is maintained by the Rabaris and Charans of  nearby states and villages. They are tribal clans of Gujarat and are mainly pastoralists. They are also ardent devotees of Shiva. Porbandar State (a princely state ruled by the Jethwa dynasty) and Navanagar state  ( a princely state ruled by the Jadeja dynasty) have endowed this shrine with land.

Origin

The Entrance to the Sanctum Sanctorum

The origin of Bileshwar  Mahadev was due to Lord Krishna. Satyabhama, one of Lord Krishna’s wives asked Him to bring parijaat tree (sacred Baobab ) which only grows in Lord Indra’s  garden. Krishna first sent Narad Muni to get the tree but when the king of Gods, Lord Indra refused to part with it, Krishna went to the garden and got the tree. A fight ensued between Lord Krishna and Lord Indra. The war stopped at sunset and both the commanders rested on Pariyatra mountain which is now known as Barda Hills. In the morning Sri Krishna offered prayers to Goddess Ganga .The Goddess pleased at His devotion came out of a cave in the form of water which formed a lake. Sri Krishna named the lake Bil Ganga. Subsequently, Krishna offered prayers to Lord Shiva. Shiva too was pleased at His ardent prayers and appeared before Him. He also promised to fulfill His desires. It is said that Mahadev presented the Sudarshan Chakra (the divine weapon of Lord Vishnu) to  Lord Krishna here. Sri Krishna then installed Shiva at the very spot and named the shrine Bilvadakeshvar which is now known as Bileshwar.

Bil Ganga

Steps Leading to Bil Ganga

Another legend says Lord Krishna prayed to Lord Shiva (Mahadev) for a son at this temple with Bilva  (stone apple) leaves because Lord Shiva is easily pleased with Bilva leaves. That’s how the temple /village came to be known as Bileshwar.

Three fairs are held here every year :two during the holy month of Shravan (July-August) and the third on Mahashivratri day.

Structure

The Pyramidal Spire of the Temple

It is an example of Gujarati architectural style. This west –facing temple is the largest from Maitraka period (approximately 475-776 A.D.) in Saurashtra. More than  one hundred temples of this period have come to light. Almost all of them are located in the coastal belt of western Saurashtra  region, except the one at Kalsar and a few temples in the Barda Hill region. The Maitraka kings were followers of Shiva and except Dharapatta (the fifth king of this dynasty), all practised Shaivism. This is manifested in the use of Shiva’s symbols such as Nandi ( Bull) and Trishul ( Trident) in their coins and inscriptions. Hence, it is no surprise that temples dedicated to Lord Shiva were built during this period. Bileshwar temple is one of them.        

The Temple's Pyramidal Spire contrasts with Domes and Arches of Subsidiary Buildings  

It was built in the 7^th century. The structure of the temple is pyramidal. It is built on a high platform with an extended ambulatory instead of a mandap ( temple porch).  Inside the temple, the Shivlinga is accompanied by the idols of Devi Ganga and Devi Parvati.

The Temple on a High Platform 

The Temple and its Subsidiary Structures 

Flight of Steps Leading to the Platform

Uniqueness

In Lord Shiva’s temples, His celestial vehicle, Nandi (Bull) always faces the Shivlinga inside the temple. But in Bileshwar Mahadev Temple, Nandi is in the temple’s courtyard .  According to legends, when the Mughal Emperor, Aurangzeb’s army had captured the village and had come to demolish the temple, Nandi came outside and stopped them. It is said that as the  Mughal army attempted  to break the linga, the linga burst, emitting hundreds of wasps .The enemy soldiers were bitten mercilessly. Many of them were killed and the rest fled. From then onwards, to prevent further aggression, Nandi stays outside as a tutelary power guarding the temple.

Nandi ,The Celestial Vehicle Of Lord Shiva

This temple is a protected place under the Gujarat Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains Act 1965 (Gujarat act no: 25 1965).

Reaching Bileshwar Mahadev Temple

It is 27 kms from the coastal city of Porbandar. Porbandar is connected to the major cities of Gujarat and India by rail, road and air transport.

 

Tags: Bileshwar Mahadev Temple,Porbandar, Gujarat, Bil Ganga, Parijaat

Photographs: Bulbul Sur.