God is in Cleanliness and Security: Kumbh 2019

God is in Cleanliness and Security: Kumbh 2019

God is in Cleanliness and Security

Kumbh 2019

History

The mythological story of the origin of Kumbh is renowned. During Samudra Manthan or churning of the ocean by the Devas (Gods) and asuras (demons), a number of things such as ratnas (gems), halahal  (poison)  supernatural animals etc. were released from the ocean of milk.   Goddess Lakshmi (symbolic of wealth and fortune)  and  Dhanvantari, the heavenly physician also emerged from the ocean. Lakshmi accepted Lord Vishnu as Her eternal consort  and Dhanvantari came up  with the kumbh (pot) containing amrita or nectar of immortality. A war broke out between Gods and demons to capture this  kumbh (pot) of amrita. So Lord Vishnu  disguised himself as a beautiful maiden, Mohini, distracted the asuras, stole this Kumbh and passed it on to his steed Garuda. While Garuda (Devtas according to some sources) was escaping with it, a few drops of nectar dropped at four places which are the sites of the modern day Kumbh Mela. Kumbh is held every 12 years and Ardh Kumbh is held every six years at these four places by rotation. The festival sites  are located on the banks of a river:

Haridwar-Ganga;  Prayagraj-confluence of Ganga, Yamuna and the invisible, mystical Saraswati; Nashik- Godavari; Ujjain- Shipra.

Significance

 Kumbh means an earthen pot.The body is created from earth and merges into the earth.Therefore Kumbh signifies the human body and Kumbh Mela is the best place to empty our vices in our nashwar (mortal) body. It is said many Deities are active in the earth’s orbit during Kumbh Mela. When we perform spiritual practices we get their blessings.Bathing in one of these rivers during Kumbh Mela is said to  cleanse a person of all his sins.  Man, thus cleansed of his sins, attains nirvana or moksha. Scientifically, the planetary positions during this time affect the water and air in a positive way which makes the place divine.

Pilgrimage

It is well known that Kumbh (or Kumbha) Mela is recorded as the largest, peaceful, religious gathering on earth but this time Prayagraj Kumbh Mela held in Triveni Sangam, Allahabad, will go down in history as the cleanest place in spite of the footfall of 22 crores of people;the most safest place in spite of the motley, teeming mass from India and many parts of the world, resulting in 55 days of accident-free zone; and outstanding arrangements for pilgrims: from constructing tents with five-star amenities to installing 1.22 lakhs of  eco-friendly toilets. 
Kumbh Mela started from 15^th January 2019 and ended on 4^th March 2019. Since it takes place twice every twelve years, it is traditionally called ‘Ardh Kumbh’.But the present Uttar Pradesh government recently renamed it ‘Kumbh’.There were special, auspicious dates for Shahi Snan (Royal Bath) and we had chosen the last date, i.e. 4^th March, Maha Shivratri day for our holy dip which incidentally was also the last day for Kumbh Mela.

We got down at Allahabad station and as we came outside it seemed all roads led to the bathing ghats,such was the mass of pilgrims. We got a taste of cleanliness from the station premises itself. The sky was overcast, some stray rain droplets trickled down and a few random papers brushed against the pavement; but only for a short while. A cleaning man came in a battery-operated vehicle. He pressed a button and a short, broom-like gadget shot out from an aperture and in a jiffy the dirt and papers vanished.

We hired an auto to go to our destination, that is the army cantonment, located inside the iconic Allahabad fort. The auto dropped us beneath a bridge and from then onwards till the fort, all vehicles were prohibited. We walked under the bridge and came to the main road.  The roads were chock-a-block with pilgrims,locals and an occasional police post. We waded with our luggage, manoeuvring through the immense, orderly crowd, passed two tent cities on our left and right, encountered pilgrims who had already taken the holy dip, and finally reached the cantonment at noon,  after walking for about two kilometres.

Once we entered the army cantonment, all my tiredness vanished because it was a large island of calm and security. We were put up in tents, which had all the facilities of a hotel, with clean beds, chairs, tables, drinking water and even a mosquito repellent. 

We had retired early at about 9:45 p.m. because the next morning which was Maha Shivratri,our day will start at 4 a.m. The climate was quite cold. All along the afternoon, evening, till late night we could hear loudspeaker announcements from the Sangam Ghat and I fell asleep immersed in the sound. Suddenly my sleep was disturbed by the trembling of the tent flap. .Soon I was wide awake when the sky roared like a wounded lion and then started the rain with its drops falling on the roof of our tent forcefully, sounding like thousands of plummeting stones ready to burst through the canvas. It was past midnight. The rain fell in torrents, increasing its intensity and we feared that our tent might be flooded. We kept our luggage on the chair in case water seeped in. There was nothing more we could do except resigning ourselves to a higher power.

The next morning we set out at four with our guide, Pradeep. It was very, very dark (in spite of the street lights) and very cold but we were filled with an unknown bliss,  as if we were in close proximity with divinity. The road was wet but not waterlogged.  People were already on their way to the Ghat.  We crossed the last arched gate which glissaded down to a concrete pathway bordered by battlements designed in Mughal architecture. This was called the Ganga Dwar and the illuminated holy Ganga came into view. From the ramparts of the fort we only saw human heads walking towards the Ganga. What a divine feeling!  This is the same Triveni Sangam where the holiest of holy have been taking bath since ancient times. The Triveni Sangam is considered to be the center of the earth in a few scriptures. 

As we walked towards the Sangam , the first striking feature we saw was the rows of temporary toilets on the side of the wide road. We were also surprised to see people sleeping beside the road, under the trees, bodies fully covered in blankets or shawls .At first glance they might be mistaken for beggars or street dwellers. But they were pilgrims like us who have arrived from another town or city and instead of checking into  a hotel have come straight to the Sangam Ghat .They will use the roadside toilets, take the holy dip ,use the changing rooms on the bank, have their breakfast at the roadside stalls and then go to the railway station or bus station for their journey back home.

The morning was dark as an eight o’clock evening but the street lights and the illumination at the Ghat  was better than a shopping mall in an upmarket metro.

As we reached the Ghat we could see a surge of people at 4:30 a.m. On the higher level of the bank there were rows of changing rooms for ladies. We selected a suitable place and proceeded to the water. The steps leading to the Ganga were sandbagged  to prevent them from being slippery. As soon as the steps were over, my feet touched a fathomless abyss and I thought I would be sucked into a hole. But a good stranger assured me to be fearless because the Ganga bed started from that point. Soon enough, as my feet felt the soft mud, I stood firmly on the bed and took the dip. The water was icy cold at first but soon the chilliness vanished when  spiritual serenity overwhelmed me as I took the sacred dip in the Triveni Sangam, consorts of Trimurti or Holy Trinity: –  Brahma’s consort, the unseen, transcendental, Saraswati River (believed to be flowing underground) ; Vishnu’s (Krishna) consort, Yamuna River; and Shiva’s consort, Ganga River . Just about four hands away from where I was bathing the waters had been barricaded with bright orange material so that enthusiastic swimmers do not go far into the water, mislead others and thence cause mishap. On the other side of the protective barricade, lots of boats had assembled, filled with people staying on the other bank, who  had come to take bath in  the holy confluence.

As soon as I had finished my dip, the good man came with milk (with a price) to be offered to Lord Shiva on Maha Shivratri day. I marveled at divine intervention, ‘as the demand so the supply’.

After changing into dry clothes I bought a puja thali comprising of flowers, diya and the usual things from a vendor sitting on the bank. The price was most reasonable—10 rupees only, as is customary  in normal places and in normal circumstances. After the puja was over, as if by magic  a tea seller came  and we had Ambrosian tea, at again the normal price. Then we strolled on the bank watching the pilgrims because the inflow was increasing as the hours progressed. But all were peaceful, whose main focus was to take the holy dip. If this is not divinity what is? It is rightly said that God resides in Man because all looked similar ,  like  Gods in their focused holiness. The extraordinary feature was silence. All the pilgrims were doing their work silently: bathing, praying, offering water to the Gods, doing arti, floating diyas on the Ganga. The vendors were silent too, no shouting of wares .The disciplined beggars gave silent, expectant looks .Only the wandering, saffron-clad mendicants begged in a sing-song, prayerful way which sounded very soothing in the dark morning with the fresh, scented air seeping in, heralding the approaching dawn. There were no pandas, touts or pestering beggars. The sandy, clean bank was moist but not soggy or squelchy. On the other side of the Ganga, far away, was  a line of bright LED lights as if there was a bustling, modern city. But it was actually the tent city erected by the government and private enterprise especially for Kumbh.

 Sangam Ghat at  4 a.m.

Barricade, Boats at Triveni Sangam and the Illuminated Bank on the Other Side at 4 a.m.

It had rained heavily the night before. The roads were wet but there were no potholes anywhere. The return journey was through another route which led us to the exit. The entry and exit routes to the Sangam Ghat were different so that in spite of the immense crowd there was no jostling or stampede-like situation. Some beggars and sadhus were sitting on the roadside but all in a line. The LED lights fell in every corner and universally there was cleanliness. Not a single plastic bottle, bag or tea cup was strewn randomly. Dustbins were positioned at regular intervals. It was 5:30 a.m. but still very dark. The exterior of the fort was dazzling in the bright LED lights. The crowd going towards the Ghat had increased manifold. Still there was a perception of expanse hence there was no crowding or frottage. When we came back to our tent ,fulfilled and serene it was just 6 a.m.

It was a very auspicious day not only because of Maha Shivratri but also because it fell on a Monday (day dedicated to Lord Shiva)after a long time. About one crore people took bath on that day .

Mankameshwar Temple

In the evening we went to a Shiva temple, called Mankameshwar Mandir. It is situated on the banks of Yamuna. It is said that worshippers attain their wish fulfillment here.  According to legend, during Lord Ram and Sita's Vanvas (exile),Devi Sita, after bathing in the Yamuna wished to pray to Lord Shiva. Since there was no Shiva temple nearby, Lord Ram built a temple for her, thus fulfilling her wishes. Hence the name Mankameshwar. The temple is small. The main idol in the temple is a black stone, ‘Shiv Lingam’. It is believed to be three and a half feet Shivling but the greater part is deep underground. It is said to have been installed by Lord Ram himself on his way to Chitrakoot.

The temple was situated at a lower level. We had to climb down a few steps from the main road to reach it. Since it was Maha Shivaratri the crowd was immense. There were adequate  police and special Action Force  managing the crowd . The queue was always in motion so that my turn came only after five minutes. There was a lady police officer near the idol, so that the worshippers do not take unnecessary time.

Saraswati Ghat

Next we walked down the same road in the opposite direction, passing a park by the Yamuna river called Minto Park, which is maintained by the army. A few feet farther was  Saraswati Ghat on the banks of the Yamuna river. From the topmost level we could see the peaceful water of the Yamuna gleaming in the setting sun. To reach the Ghat or bank we had to climb down quite a number of very, wide steps. From the Ghat we could get a very good view of a portion of Allahabad Fort located at the corner near Triveni Sangam, its walls being kissed by the greenish water of the Yamuna river. There were a few boatmen at the pier, with their anchored boats. On normal days, boatmen ferry passengers to the Sangam Ghat. But on that auspicious day, the last day of Kumbh, things were different. On being asked, whether they would take us to Triveni, one replied, “Even if you give us 10,000 rupees we’ll not ferry you to Sangam  now. Today we have been ferrying pilgrims since 4 a.m. and we are very tired.”

Saraswati Ghat

There was a metal platform like a quay, which projected slightly into the water providing a good photo op. On the western side was the newly constructed, cable-stayed Yamuna Bridge also called Shyama Prasad Mukherjee Bridge. It runs north-south across the Yamuna river connecting Prayagraj  city to its satellite neighborhood, Naini. The cables glimmered in the light of the setting sun. On the other bank of Saraswati Ghat was the tent city.

Sunset on the Yamuna River

Sangam Ghat

The next morning at about 9:30 we went to Sangam Ghat again, apprehending great filth and dirt now that the Kumbh was over but  we were in for a huge surprise. The pilgrims were going back home with their luggage on their heads; shopkeepers were disposing off their wares at a throwaway price: jackets and half-sleeved coats at 250 rupees per piece. Along the roads, vendors sold bags, toys, puja utensils, medicinal herbs, Rudraksh Mala but most were busy in packing up. Steel road plates were fixed on pathways in some places for further protection. We walked to the Sangam Ghat through a different route. The sun was quite hot. People were still taking holy dips. Crowd was everywhere. Now the boatmen begged us to take a ride, 150 rupees per head. In the morning sun we saw the actual site of the confluence--the greenish water of the Yamuna merging  with the clear Ganga water. But there was no scope for taking a perfect photograph because the crowd was still mind-boggling. 

Sandbagged Path Leading to the Ganga

Straw-Layered Bank and Cleaning Process in Progress after Completion of Kumbh Mela

Rows of Ladies' Changing Rooms

Empty Boats after Completion of Kumbh

Bathing still Going on after Conclusion of Kumbh

Vendors on the Bank

The moist sand on the bank was now layered with straw so there was no waterlogging, puddles, muddiness; hence no slipping and falling. Pandits sitting on charpais were offering to decorate the foreheads of pilgrims with sandal wood paste and tilaks. Pickpockets, touts, pandas which we thought were scarce in yesterday’s predawn would surface in the busyness of midmorning. But they were still invisible. The beggars were still sitting in a line, wandering sadhus still sang with begging bowls. The people were still peaceful. The only sound was the announcements on loudspeakers of Lost and Found. There was a giant TV screen closely monitoring the proceedings. Cleanliness was still a predominant feature. Everything was in order. The only disorder were flowers (used for puja) strewn in the Ganga but it was a sight to behold. The packing up had begun with  the sanitation staff dismantling the temporary changing rooms. Large, black plastic bags filled with garbage were ready to be disposed of.   

Allahabad Fort

In the morning we realized the beauty of the fort built by Mughal Emperor,  Akbar in 1583.It was the largest fort built by him. He named it Illahabas (blessed by God)which later became Allahabad. It is located on the banks of Yamuna near its confluence with the holy river Ganga. The location of the fort was chosen to guard the waterways. The fort has three gates—Yamuna Dwar in the south, Ganga Dwar in the east and the main gate on the landside.

Allahabad Fort's view from Saraswati Ghat extending in the Yamuna River
                                                                                           Photo: S. K. Sur

                                                                

Allahabad Fort's view from Sangam Ghat Extending in the Ganga at the Far End  

A Dazzling Exterior of Allahabad Fort at 4 a.m. on 4th March

According to legend, every time Akbar tried to construct the fort its foundation would sink in the sand. He was told that only a human sacrifice would prevent this disaster. A local Prayagwal Brahmin offered himself to be sacrificed and in return Akbar granted his descendants, the Prayagwals, exclusive rights of serving the pilgrims at the Sangam. In 1801, the British established a grand depot for military stores in Allahabad Fort and since then it is a military fort with the Ordnance Depot of the Indian Army situated here.

There are some sights within the fort premises which are of spiritual, mythological and historical importance.

1) Ancient Tree and Temple

Within the fort is a sacred fig tree called, Akshayvat ( the indestructible banyan tree).Akshayvat’s existence is linked to Vedic scriptures. It is mentioned in  Matsya Purana. According to legend, Lord Narayana in order to show his divine power to sage Markandeya flooded the entire world for a moment during which only Akshayvat survived and could be seen above the water level.   This tree is also mentioned in Ramayana. Lord Ram, Sita and Lakshman visited this place before and after their Vanvas.  It is said that they had rested beneath this tree.

Patalpuri Mandir

This underground temple is  believed to have been visited by Lord Ram. The Chinese traveler Hiuen Tsang also saw this temple in the 7th century. Akshayvat is within the temple.  

2) Saraswati Koop

Inside the fort there is a well (koop), known as Saraswati Koop. It is believed that the mythological, Saraswati river flows beneath this deep well. Saraswati is an ancient sacred river, on whose banks Vedic seers composed the initial parts of Rigveda and several Upanishads.

3 )Ashoka Pillar

Ashoka the Great of Maurya Dynasty (c. 268-232 BCE) is remembered for many extraordinary things and one of them is Ashoka Pillar. During his reign which covered the entire Indian subcontinent (except some parts of Tamilnadu, Karnataka and Kerala) the pillars of Ashoka were dispersed throughout his kingdom. He called them Dhamma Thamba (pillars of Dharma). Allahabad Fort also has the famous Ashoka pillar or Ashoka Stambha. It is located in front of the Ordnance Depot Quarter Guard. It is one of the few existing pillars that contain his edicts. The  Ashoka Pillar is a single vertical structure made of polished sandstone and is 35 feet high with a width of 35 inches. It  dates back to 3^rd century BCE. This Pillar was first erected at Kaushambi, an important city in ancient India.

Ashokan Inscription

The Ashokan inscription on the Allahabad Pillar is one of the most important records of rediscovering the Mauryan Emperor Ashoka and the full extent of his empire. The inscription is engraved in Brahmi script, in continuous lines around the column.

The Pillar includes Schism Edict which is a command by Emperor Ashoka to his senior officials (Mahamatras of Kaushambi) to avoid conflict and to stay united. The Pillar also has Queen’s Edict which refers to the charitable deeds  of Emperor Ashoka’s second queen, Karuvaki.

Samudragupta’s Inscription

A later inscription (on the Allahabad Pillar) is attributed to the Gupta Emperor, Samudragupta of 4^th century CE. It is written immediately below the edicts of Ashoka. It is written in excellent Sanskrit, praising Samudragupta, listing his political and military achievement, thus providing important information about the geopolitical landscape of the era.

Jahangir’s Inscription

 The Mughal Emperor Jahangir probably moved the Allahabad Pillar from Kaushambi to Allahabad. Jahangir’s inscription was inscribed in the 17^th century and it records the names of his ancestors. It is overwritten on the much older Ashokan inscription. Hence, much of the 3^rd and 4^th edicts of Emperor Ashoka  have been destroyed by Jahangir’s inscriptions.

Allahabad Fort is occupied by the Indian Army and special permission is required to enter it. Photography is strictly prohibited inside its premises.  

Conclusion

The media had highlighted about elaborate security arrangements in Kumbh, 2019, with thousands of policemen, home guards, central force, anti-terrorists commandos, anti-sabotage commandos with snipers , bomb disposal units,  sniffer dog squads etc. on duty. It is not as if there was a huge posse of weapon-wielding security men everywhere. But they were protecting the pilgrims by remaining in the shadows, away from razzmatazz because we did not see any of those on both the days. I only saw a couple of policemen at the exit gate at 4:30 a.m. on Maha Shivratri day. No accident or any untoward incident was reported except for a brief fire in one pocket on the first day which was quickly brought under control with no casualties.

But the biggest takeaway is spick and span Kumbh Mela. To maintain this sort of cleanliness, the administration had pressed into service 15,000 sanitation workers, 40 compactors, 120 tippers and 20,000 dustbins. Such posts had been created by Uttar Pradesh’ Chief Minister, Yogi Adityanath’s administration: Ganga Praharis or Swachhagrahis and Swachhta Doots. The 2000 Swacchagrahis /Gangapraharis were foot soldiers who kept the Mela premises clean and the main job of Swachhta Doots (Messengers of Cleanliness) was to prevent littering in the Mela area. Installation of LED lights helped them to spot garbage from a distance. Those workers went beyond the call of duty  and their 8-hour shift and worked for 10-12 hours every day to ensure that “Bhavya Kumbh, Divya Kumbh (Grand Kumbh, Divine Kumbh) is fructified on ground zero to its fullest extent. They  were working ceaselessly like the security personnel, keeping themselves in shadowland away from the razzle -dazzle of TV cameras. No wonder Prime Minister Modi had called the safai Karmacharis (sanitation staff) as ‘Karmayogis’ and showed his gratitude by washing the feet of some of them.

All in all, the slogan of Kumbh Mela 2019 , “Swach Kumbh, Surakshit Kumbh’ was not an empty bombast like many political slogans, but showed that great vision, hard work and dedication can make every lofty ideal 100 % successful.

Clean Road Leading to Sangam Ghat on Mahashivratri at 4 a.m. on 4th March 

Cleanliness of Roads on 5th March after the Completion of Kumbh Mela

                                                                                        Photo: S.K .Sur

Absence of Litter on 5th March even after Curtains on Kumbh Mela

                                                                                      Photo: S.K. Sur

Steel Plates on Roads for Extra Protection

Photographs: Bulbul Sur

Fractured Vishnu, Rescued Harihara and Art Thieves. National Museum, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

National Museum (Courtesy:wikipedia)

Fractured Vishnu, Rescued Harihara and Art Thieves

                                          National Museum, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Stone Statue of  the Leper King at the Entrance
Photo: Christophe95, Wikimedia Commons

                                                                                   

The National Museum of Cambodia is located in Phnom Penh, next to the Cambodian Royal Palace. This magnificent brick-red monument was designed by George Groslier in traditional Khmer architecture and was inaugurated on 13^th April 1920. The museum was closed from 1975-1979 during Khmer Rouge Regime when the ‘dogs of war’ played havoc with education, culture, cities, religion, industries and above all, the population of Cambodia. Many employees of the museum were killed and the abandoned museum became the home for a colony of bats with the rooms filled with bat droppings. The museum’s structure turned precarious with its rotten wood. The garden was a jungle .But the most horrific thing was, the valuable collection was stolen or damaged. After normalcy returned in Cambodia the museum was tidied up and renovated, the artifacts reorganized in record time and reopened on 13^th April 1979. There are no ramps or elevators for differently-abled persons inside the museum. An idol of Lord Ganesh adorns one corner of the garden.

Lord Ganesh     (photo:Bulbul Sur) 

 

The museum is indeed spellbinding, displaying the world’s largest collection of ancient Khmer artifacts, huge sculptural assemblage of Buddhism and a massive amount of sculptures of Hindu Gods, Goddesses and religious symbols of Hinduism.  

Shivalinga made of Bronze, Quartz and Silver
Photo: AKS. 9955 ,Wikimedia Commons

It is Cambodia’s largest museum of cultural history and one of the biggest historical and archaeological museums in the country. The large, standalone sculptures are exhibited on stools or tables while the smaller ones are encased in glass. It is reported that thousands of artifacts are still lying in the basement of the museum waiting to be categorized and displayed. There was no booklet available, so it was difficult to remember the names of the sculptures. The lady guide was very soft spoken but there was no problem in hearing her because we got transmitter-charged radios. She was an encyclopedia of Hindu religion.

Trimurti 
Photo: AKS.9955, Wikimedia Commons

In Hinduism, the Trimurti or Triumvirate consists of three Gods, Brahma the creator, Vishnu the preserver and Shiva the destroyer. In the museum, an 11^th century sandstone Trimurti of the Angkor period is displayed.  

Reclining Vishnu.

One of the most striking sculptures in the museum is a bronze statue of reclining Vishnu. Lord Vishnu is one of the supreme Hindu Gods in whose obeisance, Suryavarman II of the Angkor dynasty constructed the stupendous Angkor Wat temple.  

There is an interesting story behind the discovery of this statue. It was found in West Mebon, a temple located in the center of West Baray in Angkor, Cambodia. The temple is typical of Khmer architecture—temples surrounded by moats (deep, wide ditch filled with water) to signify the Hindu God of creation. In 1936, a local villager is said to have dreamed that an image of the Buddha was buried in West Mebon and it wished to be liberated from the site. During excavations, fragments of an 11^th century bronze statue of Lord Vishnu were unearthed in a platform at the West Mebon temple.  The fragments included the God’s head, upper torso and two right arms. The statue in complete form would have measured six meters in length. The statue is in a reclining position, as if on the ocean. Vishnu is integral to the ocean, being the architect of the churning of the ocean (Samudra Manthan).That is why West Baray was created so large to give the semblance of a real ocean. It is an 11^th century reservoir built in the reign of King Suryavarman 1 (1006-1050) and completed in King Udayadityavarman II’s reign (1050-1066). It is the largest reservoir of the Angkor era with a length of 7,800 meters. It is fed by fresh water from two main sources: Siem Reap and Puok River.  It is navigable by boat and even contains a raised-earth, ancient island built by Udayadityavarman II. It is located just west of Angkor Thom.

West Baray    (photo: Bulbul Sur)

Reclining Vishnu
Photo: Clay Gilliland, Wikimedia Commons

 Reclining Vishnu is the largest known bronze sculpture in Khmer art. It was brought to the National Museum in Phnom Penh on the 1^st of December, 1950. Archaeologists have found an 11 – 12^th century sprawling bronze workshop adjacent to the ancient royal palace in Angkor Thom under the reign of Jayavarman VII, the God king. This workshop yielded unfinished bronze sculptures, furnace, metal and crucibles. 

Harihara

Harihara is another important 7^th century stone sculpture displayed in the museum. This life-sized statue is a combined depiction of Vishnu (Hari) and Shiva (Hara), representing the preserver and the destroyer of the universe. It was from the Phnom Da Temple in Takeo province of Southern Cambodia. The head was removed by the French during French colonial rule and shipped away to France between 1882 and 1883.It was displayed at France’ Guimet Museum.

Harihara 
Photo: Vladimir Renard, Wikimedia Commons

Fortunately, the head was returned by the French and a big welcoming ceremony was held in the National Museum on January 21^st, 2016. In the presence of  the Cambodian Deputy Prime Minister Mr. Sok An, about 200 government officials, representatives of foreign governments, ambassadors and Guimet Museum’s officials, the 47 kilogram head was reattached to the body. Mr. Sok An termed the reunion as ‘symbolic of prosperity’ according to Khmer culture.

        

Lakshmi Lintel

If Lord Vishnu is the preserver and keeps the cosmos functioning harmoniously as a perfect whole, then His consort Goddess Lakshmi is His force, the Shakti which helps Him to accomplish His challenging task. In the National Museum, there is a red, sandstone Lintel celebrating Lakshmi. It belongs to the pre-Angkor period, in the first half of the 7^th century. Lakshmi signifies prosperity, fertility and power.  

Garuda:  

In the museum, there is a statue of Garuda, the lord of the birds, part bird and part man and the battle steed of Lord Vishnu. It is made of sandstone, in Koh Ker style and is from the 10^th century Angkor period.

Garuda
Photo: AKS.9955,Wikimedia Commons

Durga Mahishasuramardini

A sandstone sculpture of Durga Mahishasuramardini is also on display. It belongs to the early 7^th or late 8^th century, pre-Angkorian period. The Goddess is wearing a Vishnu crown showing her allegiance to Lord Vishnu.

Art Thieves

The problem of stolen artifacts is grave in Cambodia. The country has a rich cultural and historical heritage with 4,000 archaeological sites. But many of these sites were looted during French colonial rule, during Cambodian civil war and political instability. Numerous artifacts had been stolen and illegally trafficked out of the country. A 1993 Cambodian law prohibits the removal of cultural artifacts without government permission. Cambodian government has appealed to other countries to return Cambodian artifacts. Museums and auction houses in the USA have returned 6 looted ancient statues to Cambodia in the past few years while Thailand returned 16 smuggled, ancient artifacts to Cambodia.

In October 2015, a Norwegian businessman returned 11 artworks to the National Museum. These included a priceless Khmer sculpture of a Preah Ko temple styled, 9^th century head of Shiva and a late 12^th century Bayon-styled Male Divinity.

Two, huge, sandstone Brahma statues displayed in the museum were also looted from Koh Ker archaeological site in the 70s, during Cambodia’s civil war. They were set up for sale in a shop in Paris for $1 million. They were brought back to Cambodia after a long legal process. 

In April 2015, Cambodia collaborated with the US authorities to repatriate $ 3 million worth of Cambodian antiquities reportedly smuggled into the US by a New York art dealer.    

A 10^th century Hanuman statue which was stolen from Prasat Chen Temple during the 70s’ civil war was part of a Cleveland Museum’s collection since 1982.It was returned to the National Museum in Phnom Penh amidst a ceremony in May 2015.

Besides displaying priceless collections, preserving them and providing them excellent security, the National Museum also repatriates stolen cultural property of Cambodia from other countries.

According to a report in Phnom Penh Post, Pich Keo, the Director of the National Museum had said, “As you can see, the National Museum is difficult to protect. The thieves like it so much that we need a strong security force on guard every single day, 24 hours a day.”

It is illegal to click photos inside the museum. But photography in the museum’s garden is not prohibited.

Address: Preah Ang Eng St. (13), Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Time: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. on all seven days of the week.

        

Tags:  West Baray, West Mebon, Art Thieves. Phnom Penh.

Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary, Jamnagar:Home of Sea and Shore Birds

Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary,Jamnagar:Home of Sea and Shore Birds
Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary,Jamnagar:Home of Sea and Shore Birds 

Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary, Jamnagar: Home of Sea and Shore Birds

Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary, the largest bird sanctuary in Gujarat is just 12 km away from the main city of Jamnagar . It was officially declared a sanctuary on 6^th November, 1982 (May, 1981 according to some reports). There was no way we could miss the sanctuary because a huge signboard beckoned us, “Welcome to Bird Sanctuary Khijadiya Jamnagar”. We knew we were approaching a bird territory even before we had reached it. We suddenly heard strange whistling sounds and I began to think, “Is a car backing? I wonder why car manufacturers do not make more such backing horns to stop noise pollution!” Then we saw white birds sitting on the pebbly rivulet and we realized this was the source for those anti-noise pollutants.

Khijadiya is a distinctive man-made wetland in the northeast coastal region of Jamnagar district, which is itself situated in a semi-arid biographic zone in India. The best time to visit this sanctuary is from October to March. The timings are 6:30 am to 6.00 pm.                                                                                                                                                        

We passed through Khijadiya village and we noticed the world’s tallest bird, the sarus crane standing in a puddle. Small village children played nearby but nobody was disturbing the bird and the crane looked relaxed too. We reached the office and paid the car fee of rupees 250 and camera fee of rupees 100.The gentleman at the office was very knowledgeable .He took us to an Interpretation Center which is a storehouse of knowledge. Large boards full of information adorned the walls. The center educates tourists on the various species of resident and migratory birds that visit the sanctuary. There are different models of birds erected in it, complete with nests and trees. It is advisable to carry drinking water because when we visited the sanctuary, we only saw lakes, birds, greenery and nothing else. This was in December, 2010.

Marshland

There are abundant birds in this sanctuary because it is situated at 70 degree -7`-17”east longitude and 22 degree -31`-27” west latitude, a conducive breeding and wintering ground for migrating birds. It is located along the Indus flyway, one of the world’s major routes for migratory birds, stretching from Siberia to the Indus valley delta in the southern Sindh province of Pakistan, with a small portion in western India’s Kutch. It is also close to the Gulf of Kutch, a central Asian flyway route, which is an important migration path of water birds covering Indian subcontinent, Africa and Southeast Asia.

Lake and Inland Vegetation Hosting a Lonely Snowy Egret

The sanctuary is 6.05 square km in length. On its one side is the sea and on the other side is fresh water which makes it a unique coastal as well as freshwater wetland. There are two embankments /bunds created to prevent saline water to flow into the mainland and to stop fresh water draining into the sea. These bunds were constructed by the royal family of Jamnagar before independence, in the 1920s and 30s, which has led to the formation of two fresh water lakes.

Embankment Separating the Sea and the Freshwater

 The bunds help to prevent the seepage of salty water into the soil and to store freshwater in lakes drained from Ruparel and Kalindri rivers. The bunds are constructed with a slope so that when the  lakes overflow with rain water or surplus water from the rivers, then the excess water flows into the Gulf of Kutch (north-eastern arm of Arabian Sea) through the creeks on the other side of the embankments. Healthy, marine vegetation like marshes, salt pans and mangroves grow in these creeks. There are also various types of inland vegetation such as prosopis juliflora, forest scrub, deshi babul, pilu and others. Sedges and tall grass grow on the small islands in the lakes. Geographical features like mudflats, marshy land and sandy beaches are found in the sanctuary. Farmlands border the area.

A View of the Lake

Small Islands of Tall Grass

Garganey Ducks near Sedge Bushland

Sandy Beach

Prosopis vegetation

Mangroves

Since it is a rare complex of saltwater-freshwater wetland so there is a variety of habitats and ecosystem. It provides conducive ‘breeding, feeding, roosting and staging grounds’ for diverse marine and freshwater species of birds during various seasons of the year. Hence, more than 250 to 300 species of birds congregate here, including the globally threatened Dalmatian pelican, Asian open bill stork, black-headed ibis, Eurasian spoonbill, Indian skimmer, painted stork and crab plover.  Black-necked storks which are not found anywhere in India are seen here in abundance. Freshwater birds such as herons, grebes etc. are found here. Brahminy kite, grey francolin, Indian spotted eagle, pheasant-tailed jacana, common greenshank, garganey, common teal, comb duck, Indian pond heron, demoiselle crane are sighted in this sanctuary. In 1984, Salim Ali, the legendary Indian ornithologist and naturalist spotted 104 species of birds on a single day here.

A Solitary Black Heron

Lesser Flamingos

Great Egret or Great White Heron

Rosy Pelicans near Mudflats

Dalmatian Pelicans: An Endangered Species and a Painted Stork in Flight

This distinctive wetland attracts a large number of birds to nest in the winter season of the year. There are different types of nests —nests on trees, nests on the ground and nests on the water (floating nests). Many varieties of ducks make floating nests. 

There are two watch towers on the eastern and northern parts. We came from the main road and turned right. The murram road narrows considerably and on the left side is a huge lake. Brahminy ducks were near the shore but at the sound of the Sumo they flew away and hid under the water. I waited in vain to see them resurface because I could clearly hear their quacking. But they refused to come up. As we were leaving, we saw the birds paddling ferociously yet gracefully—power with poise.

Brahminy Ducks

The lake narrowed into a stream and in this stream, on a skeletal, forked wood sat 2 Cormorants: black with yellow eyes, one of them stuck out its chest and stood upright. Another dried its wings.

 Cormorants and Black-necked Ibis (at the distance)

The sanctuary plays host to birds who prefer marine, freshwater or both kinds of habitats as there is a freshwater environment on one side of the bund and a marine environment on the other. The birds get both types of food—freshwater and saltwater. The pelican on the side of the sea gets its food from the salt pan.  Cranes, hornbill, quail get their food from the crop field. There is an unmistakable food chain. The fresh water breeds lush vegetation and plankton. Fish and insects feed on them. Birds feed on these fish and insects.

Murram Pathways

Then we came to another narrow road which is sort of an uphill climb. The water below had dried up recently because the mud was still wet. From here we could see the tail of a lake where a lonely, large pelican looking like a small, white boat was floating in the water.

A Pelican near Salt Pan

But what’s this? From the mud dam we could see a gleaming, white, circular island of huge, Casablanca lilies. Everything was very silent. Only a faint, unseen, gurgling sound was coming from somewhere. It was a perfect, suspenseful setting for Alfred Hitchcock’s movie ‘Birds’. We walked very slowly towards the small, white island  through the walking tracks, crossed the shrub forests, came closer to the lake and we were astounded at reality. A large group of uniform white storks with protruding backs, hunched their heads in a huddle, as if they were mourning or meditating or perhaps waiting for their kill.

Lily-like snowy Island of  White Storks

 

They continued to be in a huddle and it seemed an eternity. We could not wait so long as we had other things to watch. We climbed up a watchtower and saw a view of another lake where mallard ducks were making the afternoon-shadow on the water blacker, with their shiny black coat. Amidst the huge water bodies are small islands complete with trees and shrubs or a single tree. In some places the shadow of the tree was shaping the water with its blackish rondure.

Island with Pilu and Deshi Babul Trees

Then we came back to the lily-like island and there was a slight movement in the mass of white. A white stork flew away and we could see its large, orange beak and webbed feet. Another flew away, then another until there were only a few left, holding the fort. Did we disturb them? It seemed as if the young had flown away leaving the old and infirm behind. No country for old birds.

Nilgais (antelopes), wolves, mongoose, jackals, rabbits, jungle cats and a few varieties of snakes are also found in Khijadiya bird sanctuary but we did not see any of them.

 When we went in 2010, in December, we were the only visitors there along with our driver. The setting was peaceful. The guide forbade our Sumo to go to all places because the roosting and nesting of birds might be disturbed.

But according to some reports, in 2016 there was a drastic fall in the number of migratory birds .This decline is attributed to the construction and development activities inside the sanctuary causing large stretches of vegetation to be cut down. Lots of benches are placed near water bodies so that visitors can watch birds; completely heedless of the fact that such close proximity of humans might disturb the birds. Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary has now become a ‘tourist spot’ or ‘public park’ wherein  visitors talk loudly, burst firecrackers when there is a marriage party. But hopefully all efforts are being made by nature lovers, bird enthusiasts, ornithologists to preserve this exceptional freshwater-saltwater sanctuary and stop its despoilment.

You can combine a visit to the sanctuary and a pilgrimage because the ancient, holy city ,Dwarka is just 148 km away and Nageshwar Jyotirling is 16 km  away from Dwarka. Jamnagar is connected by road through private, luxury buses and state transport buses to all important cities from Gujarat especially Ahmedabad and Vadodara. There are daily trains on the western railway with direct connections to Ahmedabad. Various domestic flights connect Jamnagar to Mumbai and Jamnagar airport is just 10 km away from the main city.

Jamnagar Refinery, a crude oil refinery owned by Reliance Industries Limited is in Moti Khavdi which is just  58 km from Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary (1 hour 19 minutes via NH 947) . It is the largest refinery in the world and located so close to a functioning coastal ecosystem is abundant proof that nothing is impossible. Environment and Economy can coexist harmoniously. There can be a symbiosis between  commerce, cash and undisturbed natural habitat.

Higher still and higher
From the earth thou springest
Like a cloud of fire;
The blue deep thou wingest,
And singing still dost soar, 
and soaring ever singest.
(P.B. Shelley)

                                                                                                  Photographs: Bulbul Sur

Tags: Salt pan, Mangrove, Murram Pathways, Moti Khavdi, Dwarka, Prosopis

Ta Prohm : Mysterious Beauty

Ta Prohm : Mysterious Beauty

Ta Prohm is best described as a mysterious jungle temple. It is located approximately one kilometer east of Angkor Thom and it was established by the Khmer king Jayavarman VII.

Entrance to Ta Prohm

The parking area was again full of Tuk-Tuks eager to ferry us to the main temple. As we talked loudly among ourselves, haggling with the Tuk-Tuk drivers, calling out our partner’s names, two policemen suddenly materialized from their small outpost at one corner of the gate and forbade Tuk-Tuks from entering the campus because it was illegal. To all our entreaties they said a smiling, but firm, “NO.” So we started walking, cursing ourselves for our talkativeness and envying the silent foreigners who had whizzed past us quietly in Tuk-Tuks. The monument was about 700 meters away from the gate. The wide road was again cut through dense jungles on either side. 

Road Leading to the Temple

At the entrance there was a signboard showcasing Archaeological Survey of India cooperating with the Cambodian government for maintaining the structures. 

Signboard

History

After walking and walking, we came to a high platform and from then onwards, the temple premises started. The temple complex is 1 km long and 350 meters wide. It was built to honor the royalty and it used to be a monastery and a university of Mahayana Buddhism. According to the commemorating Stele (stone slab), the foundation date is 1186 A.D. It was originally called Rajavihara (royal temple/monastery of the king). Jayavarman VII constructed Rajavihara in honor of his family. The temple’s main image representing Prajnaparamita (personification of wisdom) was modeled on the king’s mother. Satellite temples were dedicated to the king’s guru and elder brother. Temple’s Stele records state that it was occupied by 12,500 people which included 18 monks,2,740 priests,2,232 maids and 615 dancers in its heyday.3,140 villages and 79,365 people served the temple and also provided supplies .The temple had amassed considerable riches like  gold, pearls and silks. It was also called ‘Queen’s Tomb’, because it was built by Jayavarman VII to worship his mother Jayarajachudanami. Today it is only known as Ta Prohm, meaning ancestor Brahma.

Architecture

Ta Prohm is a flat, Khmer temple—not temple pyramid or temple mountain. It is oriented to the east. There is a central sanctuary surrounded by rectangular walls. The outer wall encloses an area of 650,000 square meters which is the size of a substantial town. But now it is largely forested.

Map of Ta Prohm 

The inner enclosures are galleried. Basic plan is complicated. We were entering dark corridors, and coming out into open courtyards quite a few times. 

Entering a Dark Corridor Through a Courtyard

The courtyards are not vast. They are surrounded by other buildings such as libraries, satellite temples, and hall of dancers and house of fire. The house of fire means rest houses / dharamshalas providing fire to the tired travelers. This fire can also mean the sacred fire used during religious ceremonies. Most of the structures are in rack and ruin. There are not many bas-reliefs like Angkor Wat except for some depictions from Buddhist mythology.

Roots, Woodland and Architectural Style

 The courtyards are photogenic because of the crumbling architecture, with huge blocks of antique stone strewn or gathered in a heap; but mostly because of the trees growing out of the ruins and clasping the structures into a tight embrace with their ancient roots. The ambience is mysterious, awe inspiring and gorgeous. While the trunks of silk cotton trees and strangler fig trees compete with other to reach the sky, their anaconda-like roots coil around the buildings as if holding the bricks and stones from collapsing any further. 

Roots of Ancient Trees

Gigantesque Trees with Aerial Prop Roots

One courtyard was particularly crowded because it was the location for the Hollywood movie, ‘Lara Croft: Tomb Raider’. People furiously clicked photographs and selfies there. The foreigners too went ‘click click’ perhaps because,“Angelina Jolie had shot her scenes here,” as our guide excitedly informed us, 

When the capital of the Khmer empire was destroyed by Siam (Thailand), and the Khmer kings left to Phnom Pehn in the 15^th century, the temple was forgotten and smothered by the jungle until it was discovered in 1860 by Henri Mouhot. The Siamese (Thais) were traditional enemies of Khmer. According to oral tradition, king Ang of Khmer (1516-1566) had named the place Siem Reap after he repulsed an army sent to invade Cambodia by the Thai king. Siem Reap means defeat of Siam (Thailand) in Khmer language.

UNESCO inscribed Ta Prohm on the world heritage list in 1992.The conservation and restoration of Ta Prohm is a partnership project of ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) and Apsara (Authority for the Protection and Management of Angkor Wat and the region of Siem Reap.)

Restoration was done without spoiling the character and atmosphere of the place and by leaving untouched the areas merging with the jungle .ASI controlled the ruins, built wooden walkways, platforms, roped railings, to protect the monument from further damage due to the large tourist inflow. It’s a tough job for the conservators to keep the structures safe from the tentacles of the giant trees. We saw a Hydra crane near one of the structures, doing its work of conservation in the midst of the huge tourist footfall.

We were filled with awe as we walked back to the gate, through the road canopied by dense foliage and hearing the chattering of monkeys and trills of parrots. The Khmer kings, who controlled most of South-East Asia till the 15^th century and the builders of Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and Ta Prohm were indeed superlative. Henri Mouhot, who discovered these structures had wondered “….what had become of this powerful race, so civilized, so enlightened the authors of these gigantic works?”

All are matchless, evoking different feelings. While Ta Prohm has a romantic, thrilling image of a battle between nature and architecture, of tree roots penetrating into ancient, religious ruins, Angkor Thom is to find order in the disordered jungle of structures. While the former is a celebration of Jayavarman VII’s family, the latter is his personal celebration by modeling the Face Towers on himself. But Angkor Wat stands tall with its divinity, because it is the embodiment of a king’s true devotion and selfless offering of all his resources to his God, his protector and his very essence, Lord Vishnu. 

Photographs: Bulbul Sur

Tags:  Henri Mouhot, Ta Prohm, ASI, Siem Reap